Alishan

The area has been settled by Taiwanese Aboriginal people since time immemorial, but ethnic Chinese began settling only in the 19th century. Development really took off only when the Japanese completed the Alishan Forest Railway (1912), a remarkable narrow-gauge train that was built for logging the area's giant cedars. The area's beauty was so convincing that the Japanese government designated it as a National Park in 1937. By the 1970s, logging had pretty much ended and tourism had become the area's primary earner, and the entire area was declared a "national scenic area" in 2001.

Alishan is not a single mountain, but a range on Taiwan's spine, averaging 2,500 m in high and with the highest peak Datashan (大塔山) reaching 2,663 m. Taiwan's highest mountain, Yushan (3,952 m) is easily visible from Alishan.

Due to its elevation, Alishan's flora are more temperate/alpine than tropical, and the slow transition from bananas and palms to evergreens on the way up is interesting to watch. The dominant feature are giant Taiwanese red cypresses (Chamaecyparis formosensis), some of which have been growing in the area for well over 2,000 years, although most are now managed forests for logging. In spring, crowds flock to view cherry blossoms, while in summer the mountainsides are blanketed with orange montbretia blossoms.

Due to its elevation, Alishan is considerably cooler than the coast, with daytime highs averaging 14-24°C in summer and 5-16°C in winter. Even for a mountain, Alishan's weather is extraordinarily rapidly changing: an average day starts with a cloudless morning, theatrically dense clouds of rolling mist by noon and ends with a lightning storm and torrents of rain before repeating all over the next day. Humidity is always very high, and indeed most surfaces in the park seem to be covered with a layer of luxuriant green moss.

Take the famous Alishan Forest Railway (阿里山森林鐵路) narrow-gauge train from Chiayi station (the old one, not the new HSR station at Taibao). A one-way costs NT$399 and takes around 3½ hr. The train passes through the scenic village of 🌍 Fencihu (奮起湖) halfway up and the village of Ruili (瑞里) is also accessible (several km away) from Jiaoliping (交力坪) station. Don't miss this trip, especially if you're a train or architecture buff, as the line is largely the same as it was before World War II — but you might want to consider a bus for the way back (it takes about 4½ hours for the return trip).

As of 2015, there are trains from Chiayi at 09:00 (daily) and 10:00 (Sa Su holidays), returning from Fencihu at 14:00 and 15:00. The railway will sell standing room tickets and during peak periods like summer and the cherry blossom season trains can get very crowded, so book ahead by calling operator TRA at (05)225-6918, preferably in Chinese, and show up at least 30 min before departure to collect your tickets. Alternatively, there are usually "scalpers" standing outside the ticket window selling tickets at-cost, in the hope that you will also book a room in the hotel they work for. In Chiayi station, the Alishan ticket counter is on the outside of the building, separate from the ordinary TRA counters.

Tickets from Alishan out are bought inside 7-Eleven convenience stores — they cannot be purchased far in advance. You can also purchase tickets directly on the bus if there are free seats.

Buses (some large and luxurious, some more cramped minibus styles) from Chiayi to Alishan leave regularly and take between two and three hours. The route isn't quite as scenic, with more tea plantations and small villages than cliffs and mountains. The combination of a somewhat bumpy and very winding road with some very aggressive driving standards can make this trip literally vomit inducing if you are prone to motion sickness. The ride back is not as bad. Buses stop at Ruili on the way. They also stop at the park entrance to allow you to buy your entrance ticket.

There are two primary options:

• Route B: Chiayi rail station to Alishan. Ignore the touting old ladies greeting you as you exit the train station and head straight for the bus station, just outside and to the right of the TRA station. The ticket counter is inside the bus station. Buses leave from Chiayi at 06:10, 07:40, 08:10, 08:40, 09:10, 10:10, 10:40, 11:10, 12:10 and 14:10. The return buses leave from Alishan in front of the 7-Eleven store at 09:10, 11:10, 12:10, 12:40, 13:10, 14:10, 15:10, 15:40, 16:10 and 17:10.
• As of October 2018, the fare is NT$300 each way. Please keep your ticket tab carefully. The Alishan park has an entry fee of NT$300, but you get a discount of NT$150, if you show your ticket of this bus. The discount is valid for the day of entry!
• Route A: THSR Chiayi station to Alishan. As of January 2015, this costs NT$290 with buses leaving to Alishan at 10:10, 11:40, and 13:10, and back at 12:40, 14:10 and 15:40. A "combo ticket" that gets you 25% off a THSR return to Chiayi plus a return bus ticket is also available.

Buses depart daily at 08:00 and 09:00 from Shuishe Visitors Center (Yunglin Bus 6739, NT$336). Reservations are required up to a maximum of 2 weeks in advance by submitting a Word form or in person at the Shuishe visitors center. Ticket can be purchased the day before or driver will accept exact change. The up-to-5-hr journey along winding mountain roads includes brief stops at a sour plum speciality store and the romantic Tataka Couple Tree.

Outside the bus hours, the only way to get to Alishan is by taxi which will cost NT$1,600.

The Alishan Forest Railway has three very popular local services within the park.

• Jhushan Line (祝山線), from Alishan to Jhushan (祝山) in 25 mins, 6.2 km. Serves Jhushan Station which is the highest elevation railway station in all of Taiwan. Has two daily departures very early in the morning (the exact time varies by season) so you can catch the sunrise over Jade Mountain (玉山). Departure times are announced at 4:30PM the day before. You can reserve tickets two weeks in advance (reservation closes at noon one day before departure). Same-day tickets are only sold 30 mins before departure at Alishan Station. One-way NT$150. Pay attention to the time for 2 return trips back to Alishan Station. Otherwise you will have to walk 3km downhill (roughly 45 mins).
• Sacred Tree Line, from Alishan to Shermuh (神木). Around 1.2 km long, running along the same mainline as the trains from Chiayi. Departures half-hourly, one-way/return NT$50/80. The last train leaves at 16:00 back to the main station.
• Zhaoping Line (沼平), from Alishan to Zhaoping (沼平). A short hop of only about 700 m. Departures half-hourly, one-way/return NT$50/80.

The Mianyue Line (眠月線) closed in 1999 due to earthquake damage and is unlikely to reopen.

Trails around Alishan are ridiculously well signposted: every intersection of two paths not only has signs in Chinese and English, but a map pinpointing your exact location and all possible routes. You can also pick up an English map from the tourist office. All the main routes are very well maintained, with stairs for steeper sections, guard rails, etc. It's easy to walk the entire Alishan village and trails area within one to one and a half day.

A trail, about 4 hours one way, connects Fengcihu and Ruili through a scenic bamboo forest straight out of a kung-fu movie.

There are minibuses operating on the roads within Alishan. These are especially important if you want to avoid having to hike back after 16:00, when the last trains run. Prices are the same as trains, but the tickets don't seem to be interchangeable with the trains. These are also a bit faster than the trains. Stations are at major sites.

For a meal on the train, don't miss the Fencihu lunch box (奮起湖便當 fencihu biendang), which has a deep-fried cutlet, Taiwanese sausage and a selection of mountain veggies on rice. Vendors come onto the train to sell them at Fencihu station (NT$100 each).

Stalls selling noodles, rice dishes and basic street food can be found at the Alishan main square, at Jhushan and the Jhoushen Temple.

While you are waiting for the sun to rise, a hot drink from the vendor will warm your hands. Also try the egg crepe, scallion pancakes and French toast. Hot Clear soup with blood rice cake is also available. Hot Sakura flavoured honey in the early morning is great too.

Alishan's main square has half a dozen largely identical restaurants specializing in hotpot (火鍋), using mountain vegetables and mountain game like deer and wild boar. Most cater mostly to groups and thus offer vast spreads (e.g. 10 dishes for NT$1,000), but if you stick to the menu, a "small" pot for two-three goes for around NT$300.

• Juh Shan Yuan Restaurant (玉山園餐廳) (behind clocktower on main square). One of Alishan's many hotpot restaurants. English menu (well, kinda), reasonably priced and tasty. 

Most of Alishan's accommodation is clustered around the main Alishan railway station, which is very convenient for eating and shopping, but means a 1- to 2-km hike (or short train ride) for visiting the park. They can be found in the hotel area, which is behind the visitor center, the stairs down can be found just to the left of the building. While touts meet incoming trains, it is best to reserve the hotels ahead of time, since on weekends (Friday, Saturday) and holidays most rooms will be booked almost every day of the summer. Weekday rates are much lower, but still rather expensive for what you get.

• 🌍 Dafeng Hotel (阿里山大峰渡假山莊), No.46, Jhongjheng Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, ☏ +886 5-2679769, fax: +886 5-2679577. Complimentary Wi-Fi in the lobby, and also reaches most nearby rooms, for those traveling with laptops. The rooms don't have heat unless it gets very cold, although the beds have electric blankets. Also there was no hot water, but I got the feeling this is par for the course at the cheaper hotels in the area. NT$1,600 weekday, NT$2,600 weekend. 
• Catholic Hostel (just after the park gate, turn left on the small road and it's the first building (a church) you will see on your left), ☏ +886 5-267-9602, svdalishan@yahoo.com.tw. It's better to call to make reservation or to send an email. The owners don't speak English, but they will understand your email if it's written in simple English (the answer will be in Chinese). Hot water and warm blankets. Bring your own towel, they don't provide! NT$1,500/3,000 for a room with up to 2 or 4 occupants. 
• 🌍 Gao Shan Ching Hotel (高山青大飯店), No.43, Jhongjheng Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, ☏ +886 5-2679716, fax: +886 5-2679780. Large resort. NT$1,800 weekday, NT$3,000 weekend. 
• 🌍 Shermuh House (神木賓館), No.50, Jhongjheng Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, ☏ +886 5-2679666, fax: +886 5-2679667. Renovated 5-story hotel. Rooms are pleasant enough, but they're stingy with the heating, which is only turned on when temperature in the rooms falls below 7°C! 5 min on foot downhill from the railway station. NT$1,600 weekday, NT$3,200 weekend. 

A few hotels can be found elsewhere in the park.

• 🌍 Alishan House (阿里山賓館), No.16, Xianlin Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, ☏ +886 5-2679811, fax: +886 5-2679596. Check-out: 11:00. The grand old lady of Alishan's hotels, with both a traditional Chinese wing and a very modern, slick new wing. The best views in Alishan and well-located for venturing into the park. Free shuttle bus from railway station. Breakfast and dinner included, but watch out for the dinner, as it is not very good. From NT$3,800, up to NT$5,000 for the largest rooms with the most beautiful view. 
• 🌍 Fencihu Hotel (奮起湖大飯店), ☏ +886 5-256-1888. Also known as Fancylake Hotel, this is the only larger hotel in Fencihu, a stone's throw from the train station. NT$2,400/3,200. 
• 🌍 Alishan Gou Hotel (阿里山閣大飯店), ☏ +886 5-2679611, fax: +886 5-2679614. Free shuttle bus from the train station. Coats can be rented for NT$100, if you came dressed for summer, and don't want to get chilled to the bone while waiting for the sunrise. Price includes Taiwanese style breakfast in the hotel restaurant. NT$2,200 and up. 

Camping is not permitted anywhere within the Alishan Scenic Area. If you have your own car, there are a few campgrounds within striking distance outside the park, notably at Dinghu (頂湖).