Arnhem Land

The main settlement is Nhulunbuy with a population of over 4,000 people, actually the fourth largest settlement in the Northern Territory. The area belongs to the Yolngu Aboriginal people who have lived on and taken care of the land for more than 40,000 years. Nhulunbuy is one of the most isolated areas of Australia, surrounded by beautiful beaches and is a popular adventure fishing spot. The town was built in the early 1970s to service a bauxite mine and alumina refinery, operated by Alcan. However it has also assumed a role as a centre for service provision to Arnhem Land. Its isolation has meant that its natural attractions have had little visibility in the mainstream tourist market. Nhulunbuy is often referred to as "Gove", however Gove is actually the peninsula on which the town is located.

Anyone wanting to venture into Arnhem Land needs to apply for a permit through the Northern Land Council (+61 1800 645 299) and discuss the best spots to camp with the regional permit officer. Call or check website for up to date details on pricing etc.

Nhulunbuy is surrounded by land that is under the control of the local Aboriginal landowners, the Yolngu. Permits are required to enter Yolngu land. During the wet season a proper 4WD should be used to get to some of the camping spots.

Many travellers fly in or visit Arnhem Land on a four-wheel drive tour, but to really test your driving skills, obtain a permit and experience the networks of four-wheel drive tracks yourself (April to September only). Scenic flights are another way to really take in the vast scenery.

Organised tours are really the best way to experience Arnhem Land. A knowledgeable guide will lead you through the area and answer any questions you may have.

There are a number of indigenous art galleries in and around Arnhem Land. The art centres can arrange visitor permits and advise when is the best time of day to watch local artists and craftspeople create their work.

• 🌍 Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Centre (Yirrkala Art Centre), 138 Tuffin Rd, Yirrkala, ☏ +61 8 8987 1701. 8AM–4:30PM. The Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Centre, located in Yirrkala near Nhulunbuy, houses a collection of Yolngu, Aboriginal, bark paintings, carvings and artefacts. The museum includes the original church panels that are of great historical and cultural significance. There is also an extensive history of Yolngu service in World War II, and a collection of stories and petitions relating to the Yirrikala area. The centre also has a retail outlet. Entry fees apply. 
• Dhamitjinya (East Woody Island) and Galaru (East Woody Beach), Dhamitjinya, Nhulunbuy, Northern Territory, ☏ +61 8 8987 3992. Dhamitjinya (East Woody Island) and Galaru (East Woody Beach) are 3 km from Nhulunbuy. These pristine beaches are spectacular in both their length and the clarity of their azure waters - a great spot to enjoy a tropical sunset. Entry fees apply. 
• 🌍 Umbakumba Art Centre, 35 Mamarika Rd, Umbakumba, ☏ +61 8 8987 4006. An cultural and art centre located on the eastern end of Groote Eylandt, and a good way to experience Indigenous Australian culture. (updated May 2022)

As access can be affected due to high tides, please check with Dhimurru Land Management Land Corporation for details. Travellers must also obtain a recreation permit from Dhimurru prior to visiting the area.

The beaches around Nhulunbuy are absolutely spectacular. Beautiful sand and water that you can swim in most of the year, of course being cautious about sharks and other dangers. The bush here is great as well. Beautiful animals and types of plants you see all along the way to the spectacular waterholes. They have clear pristine water.

You can learn about and view the many world-famous rock art galleries on a guided tour or through the comprehensive interpretative signage at many art sites.

Tours led by Aboriginal guides explore the spectacular bush environment, searching for traditional foods and medicines while others cruise rivers and billabongs or tell you the story of the didgeridoo.

• Nomad Tours and Charters, 10 Beagle Circuit, Nhulunbuy, Northern Territory, ☏ +61 8 8987 8085. They operate around remote north east Arnhem Land, from their base in the town of Nhulunbuy on the Gove Peninsula. They offer luxury four-wheel drive small group tours and personalised private charters throughout the Gove Peninsula area with fishing day trips around Nhulunbuy or extended activity based safaris to their Banubanu Wilderness Retreat on Bremer Island. Fish or just chill out and enjoy the remote solitude. 
• Conservation Volunteers Australia, Shop 4, 41 Cavenagh Street, Darwin, ☏ +61 8 8981 3206. Conservation Volunteers Australia is a non-profit, non-government organisation and is Australia’s leading practical conservation organisation. They welcome more that 10,000 volunteers per year and have 24 offices across Australia. $640. 
• Yothu Yindi Foundation, Level 3, 43 Cavenagh Street, Darwin, ☏ +61 8 8941 2900. The Yothu Yindi Foundation is a not for profit charitable Indigenous organisation with three primary aims. Sharing knowledge and culture, thereby fostering greater understanding between Indigenous and non-Indigenous peoples. The maintenance, nurturing and celebration of cultural traditions and practices. Creating economic opportunities for Yolngu through education, training, employment and enterprise, community and personal development. $1540. 

The art sites and galleries sell original Aboriginal arts and crafts.

Collect Aboriginal Artoffer small, tailor made flying tours to remote Aboriginal communities in Arnhem Land, Central Australian and beyond, to view and purchase authentic Aboriginal art. Focusing on their belief, ‘the first rule when collecting Aboriginal art is to spend time where it’s created’, these fully escorted tours will provide you with a rich cultural experience. The Arnhem Land Art Tour runs for 3½ days and visit remote art centres. This tour costs from $8600 to $9220. Private charters are also available.

Exploring the area through a tour is most recommended. The tours will provide you with all your food needs. Bush tucker tours show visitors how the indigenous people live from the land. Basic food is available at the sporadic rest stops and museums throughout the park.

Make sure you drink plenty of water when trekking through Arnhem Land, at least one litre of water for every hour of walking.

• Crocodiles Estuarine (saltwater) crocodiles are dangerous. They have attacked and killed people. They inhabit most areas of water in Kakadu National Park including floodplains, freshwater billabongs, creeks, rivers and coastal areas. In most locations, crocodile warning signs tell you not to enter the water and to keep away from the water’s edge. Obey signs warning of crocodiles. If you do not see a warning sign, assume that crocodiles are present. Do not enter the water unless you are sure it is safe to do so.
• Swimming Due to the risk of estuarine crocodiles in the park, the only public place you should swim is in the Jabiru swimming pool. Some visitors choose to swim at their own risk, in selected natural plunge pools and gorge areas such as Gubara, Maguk, Jim Jim Falls, Gunlom, Jarrangbarnmi (Koolpin Gorge) and in creeks on the plateau above Twin Falls, Jim Jim Falls and Gunlom. These areas are surveyed for estuarine crocodiles prior to opening each dry season. There remains some risk that estuarine crocodiles may move into gorges and plunge pools during the dry season. Read the crocodile warning signs in each plunge pool and gorge area and consider their information carefully.
• Some of the most poisonous snakes in the world inhabit Kakadu, but luckily for visitors they are all very shy and are very rarely seen, let alone confronted. These species include the Taipan, Death Adder, and King Brown. They are seldom active during the day, hunting at night. Do not hike off any trails after dark.
• Feral animals have become relatively common in Kakadu, some of which may pose a threat if harassed. Asian Water Buffalo and Wild Horses can cause serious injury or death if they charge.
• Cliffs Climbing rock ledges and cliffs and walking or standing near cliff edges can lead to serious injury or death, especially when rock surfaces are wet. Keep well away from all cliff edges.
• What to wear During the heat of the day, you will be most comfortable in loose covering clothing which is cool but protects you from sunburn and insect bites. Use sunscreen and wear a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses. Mosquitoes can carry viruses such as the Ross River virus, so if they are biting, use a repellent.
• Dehydration Early symptoms include feeling thirsty, excess sweating, headache, dizziness and nausea. If dehydration continues, it can result in seizures, a loss of consciousness and even death.
• Preventing dehydration Limit your activity to the cooler parts of the day (mornings and late afternoons) and drink plenty of water. Most people need between 4 and 8 litres of water per day so start drinking water early (coffee, tea and alcohol don’t count!). For every hour you walk, carry at least one litre of water per person.
• First aid Lie the person down in a cool shaded area. Give them water in small quantities at a time (creek water is alright if you have no other water). If the person cannot keep the water down, or does not recover quickly, seek medical assistance. Contact the medical centre at Jabiru on ☏ +61 8 8979 2018.
• Emergency Call Devices [ECD] are available in remote locations throughout the park. Instructions on use are written on the ECD. These are for emergency calls only. See maps for locations.
• Flash flooding Sudden rises in the levels of waterways can quickly cut off the return route from the top of waterfalls such as Gunlom and Jim Jim. Fast flowing water can be deceptive, creating strong currents and dangerous swimming conditions.
• Driving hints Top End roads can be hazardous. Plan ahead and allow sufficient time for travel. Slow down! Roads can become slippery in the wet. During the dry, dust from other vehicles can obscure your vision. When using 4WD tracks, put your vehicle into 4WD. Read your vehicle instructions: many vehicles need their front wheel hubs physically locked, before engaging 4WD from the driver’s seat. At flooded crossings read the signs, look at depth markers and observe how quickly the water is flowing, before deciding whether to cross. Sometimes it is safer to wait until the water recedes. Remember crocodiles may be present. In the event of fires, make sure you park your vehicle in cleared areas rather than in flammable long grass. Use vehicle headlights if driving through heavy smoke, and drive slowly. If stopping, park well off the road and use hazard lights. Do not park on bridges or causeways at any time. Always check road access.
• Make sure you have all the correct permits.

• Darwin
• Kakadu National Park
• Katherine
• Tennant Creek