Asunción
Asunción is the capital and largest city of Paraguay. Unlike other capitals of South America such as Buenos Aires, Quito or Lima, Asunción is off the beaten path as it lacks well known tourist attractions. However, the number of visitors is on the rise and those who visit the Paraguayan capital will discover an authentic Latin American city which has managed to keep a quiet atmosphere and preserves interesting sights and monuments of its rich history and colonial past. Asunción is nonetheless a thriving city with an important commercial activity, a rich cultural scene with interesting museums, theaters and art galleries, an active nightlife and some excellent hotels and restaurants.
Understand
The Asunción metropolitan area is home to 2.2 million of Paraguay's 6.9 million inhabitants. It is a cosmopolitan and demographically young city with 65% of its residents under the age of 30.
Many landmarks and historical buildings in the old city centre have recovered their past splendour thanks to Paraguay's bicentennial independence celebrations that took place during 2011 and demanded a lot of restoration works throughout the city. In 2012, a new riverside promenade (costanera) was opened along the Bay of Asunción which added a much needed space for running, walking and family recreation. Around the city tree-lined avenues, small parks and shady squares break up the rigid grid system of streets in the downtown area. From July to September the whole city is drenched in colour with the prolific pink and yellow bloom of lapacho trees, which grow everywhere.
History
Asunción was founded in 1537 by Juan de Salazar y Espinosa, a Spaniard and member of the Pedro de Mendoza expedition which was set to colonize the Rio de la Plata basin, on 15th August the day of the feast of the Assumption of Mary, that is why is so named. It is the longest continually inhabited settlement in the Río de la Plata basin and in early colonial times it was referred to as Madre de Ciudades (mother of cities) because it was from here that numerous expeditions and missionaries set off to colonize the region founding many other settlements like Corrientes, Santa Fe, Buenos Aires and Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Asunción was established on the eastern bank of a calm bay in the river Paraguay, rendering it a good lookout post. In 1541 the first Cabildo (town council) was created transforming Asunción from a military fort to a civilian town with a local government.
The first president after independence, José Gaspar Rodríguez de Francia, who ruled Paraguay from 1814 to 1840, began to put some town planning. Under his successor, Carlos Antonio López, the railway was inaugurated, and some of the handsome 19th century buildings went up. The following president, Mariscal Francisco Solano López, in the short period before he embarked on his catastrophic War of the Triple Alliance, built the grandest of the city's buildings, his own residence, known today as the Palacio de López. The city centre is an old testament to 19th century historic ideals, with names reflecting local heroes and battles. During the Chaco War against Bolivia of 1932-35 many buildings in the city were improvised as hospitals and military barracks.
Since the 1970-80s internal migration from the countryside to Asunción has made the city to increase in size and population until becoming one continuous urban spread comprising more than a dozen different cities that form the Greater Asunción metro area. The most interesting for tourists to visit are Luque, San Lorenzo, Capiatá, Itauguá and Villa Hayes among others.
Present day
Today Asunción is a bustling, chaotic city with some 600,000 inhabitants within its city limits, and around 2.5 million people in its metro area. However, behind the new tall glassy buildings, corporate headquarters and shopping malls, Asunción retains a laid back atmosphere. When visiting the city a mix of three different architectural styles will be present: colonial style (present in the oldest houses and buildings of the city centre); italianate public buildings and manors (with beautiful gardens) and modern Latin American architecture (including a large shopping malls next to residential houses).
Tourism has become important for Asunción and it is specially visible in the Business District and Villa Morra neighbourhoods where economic growth has resulted in a plethora of new hotels and shops, as well as innovative new bars and restaurants. The majority of visitors are businessmen of neighboring Latin American countries and day trippers from Argentina. They come to enjoy low prices on practically all goods and services from restaurant meals to electronics and even car tyres.
Visitor information
- 🌍 Senatur (National Tourism Board), Palma 468, ☏ +595 21 441530, toll-free: 0800 113030, fax: +595 21 491230. The main national tourist information office also called Turista roga (visitors house). It has a visitors information centre and an exhibition hall for sale of traditional arts, crafts and books. Additional information booth at Silvio Pettirossi International Airport.
- 🌍 Centro de Información Turística (Tourist Information Centre), Avenida Costanera. Municipal tourist office on the riverside promenade.
Climate
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Asunción is just south of the Tropic of Capricorn so the climate is subtropical. That means hot weather, especially in the South American summer (winter in the Northern Hemisphere). Between November and March, the temperature can consistently climb over 38 °C (100 °F) and the humidity can be high and uncomfortable. Nevertheless, the weather changes frequently from one week to another. When the sun shines you bake and it can be very dry when the rains hold off for just a few days. Rains can be heavy and make the temperature drop precipitously. Then the clouds build and it becomes cold.
Talk
The city, as the whole country, is officially bilingual, with 79% of people speaking Spanish as their first language, and 20% have Guaraní as their first tongue. English is not widely spoken outside of hotels and tour operators so without some basic Spanish phrases it might be hard to get by. Public transportation, street signs and all road signalization are in Spanish. Business people and the younger generations have some knowledge of English. Although locals will appreciate an effort to say a few words in Spanish, they will try to communicate in English if they can. The majority of restaurants have Spanish-only menus and waiters seldom speak other languages than Spanish or Guaraní.
Get in
By plane
🌍 Silvio Pettirossi International Airport (ASU IATA) (17 km (11 mi) northeast of Asunción.).
International flights
International flights are available to:
- Europe – Madrid with Air Europa
- Argentina – Buenos Aires with Aerolíneas Argentinas, LATAM and Paranair, and Córdoba with Air Europa
- Brazil – São Paulo-Guarulhos with LATAM, Gol and Paranair
- Uruguay – Montevideo with Paranair
- Chile – Santiago with LATAM
- Bolivia – Santa Cruz de la Sierra with Amaszonas
- Perú – Lima with LATAM
- Colombia – Bogota with Avianca
- Panamá – Panamá City with Copa Airlines
- United States – Miami with Eastern Airlines (not around since 1991)
Domestic flights
Domestic flights are available to:
- Ciudad del Este with Paranair and Sol del Paraguay
- Encarnación and Pedro Juan Caballero with Sol del Paraguay
- Concepción, Vallemí, Fuerte Olimpo and Bahia Negra with Setam.
Ground transportation
Ground transportation from the airport to the city centre takes 30–45 minutes by taxi, and they charge a fixed rate of about USD$25.
There is a bus stop 200 m outside the airport terminal where you can catch city bus 30-A that will take you into the city in 1 hour and the fare is GS.3,300. There are no signs to point the way to the stop, but just walk out of the terminal and turn right. Local buses are not suited for carrying big pieces of luggage, and they don't run during the night from 23:00 to 05:00 when many flights arrive and depart.
Car rental is available at the airport and many companies have offices on the arrivals floor. Also, some major hotels have their own private minibuses.
By bus
- 🌍 Terminal de Omnibus de Asunción (bus terminal) (about 5 km (3 mi) southeast of the city centre). Take a taxi or bus (city buses N°8, N°38, among many others) to go downtown. The terminal is at the junction of two main city avenues. The Avenida Fernando de la Mora in front of the bus terminal leads west to the city centre. The Avenida República Argentina at the side of the terminal goes north to Villa Morra, Carmelitas, the Business District and the airport.
Ticket offices for all bus companies are inside the terminal on the first floor. It's also possible to buy tickets for some national long-distance destinations and international destinations at travel agencies and online at the corresponding bus company website.
There are normally two types of bus services to the largest cities in Paraguay: común and directo. While the first are cheaper, they also stop in every town or bus stop along the way to pick up and drop off passengers and take longer time than the directo which runs direct or with fewer or no stops to reach their destination in less time. Directo buses are less frequent having only a couple of services a day generally at midnight or early in the morning or late afternoon.
- Encarnación, común: 7–8 hr, several daily, GS.50,000; also directo: 5 hr, GS.75,000
- Ciudad del Este, several daily, 5–7 hr, GS.40,000–70,000
- Concepción, about 5-6 hr, several daily, GS.90,000 (possible to negotiate to GS.80,000 depending on your arguments)
- Cities in the Chaco: Loma Plata, Filadelfia, Neuland, Mariscal Estigarribia, about 8 hr, 1 or 2 daily to each destination, GS.90,000 (NASA, Golondrina).
If time is an issue and money not, it is wise to spend extra to get the better service (e.g. the GS.70,000 bus to Ciudad del Este takes 2-3 hr less than the GS.40,000 services). Food and drink is often served on the more expensive long-distance services, and almost all will stop en route to let someone on selling chipa and cocido.
International buses
There are several connections between Asunción and Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay, Bolivia, Chile and Peru.
- Buenos Aires, ~17 hr, several daily, GS.300,000 (Crucero del Norte, Nuestra Señora de la Asunción/Chevallier)
- Santa Cruz, ~24 hr, US$45-65.
- From Formosa (Argentina):
- Direct bus: 12:30; AR$350; 2 hr.
- Exchanging bus at the border (cheaper and faster):
- Take a bus from Formosa to the border (San Ignacio de Loyola International Bridge): 07:30, 10:00, 12:20, 15:45, 19:15, 22:10 - AR$150 - 1.5 hr.
- Cross the border. Do not change money with the vendors standing around right at the border control, their rate is about 10% off the actual/interbank exchange rate. There is an 🌍 official money exchange a few 100 m further. Get back to the border control building. The bus to Asunción leaves directly 🌍 next to this building.
- Take the bus from the border building to the Asunción Bus Terminal (get off early depending on you accommodation): Every hour or so - GS.6,000 - 30-45 min.
- (Note that some buses from Formosa just go to the 🌍 Clorinda Bus Terminal (Argentina) without a stop at the Loyola International Bridge, and others go to Loyola, including Clorinda. But there is also a pedestrian crossing across the river into Nanawa (Paraguay) directly from the center of Clorinda near the bus terminal. Formalities should be similar as just explained. The bus stop on the Paraguayan side is 100 m left after the crossing.)
- Santa Cruz de la Sierra (Bolivia) – One bus daily departing from Asunción at night - meaning that you miss out on any views of the Chaco. The bus is extremely slow and occasional roadblocks on the Bolivian side of the border can cause your journey time to double. The trip takes 21-24 hr and costs US$40-60. Consider that a flight might only be marginally more expensive, depending on the time of booking. Any intermediate exit or boarding (like Mariscal Estigarribia or Villamontes) will likely cost the same as the complete trip. But if your nerves are strong, you will get the price down bargaining directly with the bus driver.
By car
Asunción is very well connected to all the major cities of Paraguay; moreover, as the capital, it is the beginning and terminus of the country's main highways. Route 1 goes southeast for 362 km (225 mi) to Encarnación. Route 2 (which then becomes Route 7 at Coronel Oviedo) goes east for 325 km (202 mi) to Ciudad del Este. Route 3 goes northeast for 460 km (286 mi) to Pedro Juan Caballero. Route 9, better known as the Transchaco Highway, goes northwest for 740 km (460 mi) to the Paraguay/Bolivia border. After 15 km (9 mi) on this route just after leaving Asunción and crossing the bridge over the river Paraguay, a side road goes southwest for 20 km (12 mi) to Puerto Falcón at the Paraguay/Argentina border.
By boat
Copanatra car ferries link Asunción to Argentina crossing the river Paraguay between the 🌍 Port of Ita Enramada at the end of Avenida Perón on the southern edge of the city with Puerto Pilcomayo, on the Argentinian side, every 30 min M-F 06:30-17:30, and Sa and holidays 07:00-13:30.
By train
There is no longer any train service to Asunción. The beautiful 19th-century train station building next to Plaza Uruguaya is now a museum and cultural events venue.
Get around
The historic centre of Asunción is small enough to be explored by foot. However, some of the attractions, such as the Jardín Botánico (Botanical Garden) are a bit outside. In addition to the city's historical core - which is essentially between the streets Colón and Antequera - the Carmelitas area has become a hub for retail and entertainment, containing several large shopping centres and North American-style bars and restaurants. East-west street names change at Independencia Nacional, and North-South ones at Avenida Mariscal López.
By bus
Buses are ubiquitous, cheap and an experience in themselves (be careful while exiting, since many only slow down rather than stop for passengers to get off). They go more or less everywhere in the city: destinations are displayed on boards on the front window, if in doubt just shout your intended destination at the driver when he stops and he'll tell you yes or no. There are sometimes a few different versions of each bus number: 16, 16.1, 16.2 etc. which often have different routes from each other, so watch out not to accidentally get on the wrong one. There aren't many official bus stops in Asunción, you can just stick your arm out and flag down a bus pretty much anywhere. No bus schedules or maps are available, but the locals know which buses go where, so just ask. (You'll need some knowledge of Spanish to do that.) The fare is GS.3,600 if the bus is air-conditioned (con aire), GS.2,200 if it isn't (as of 2018). Fares are paid with a JAHA card which can be bought at supermarkets, kioskos and drugstores.
Some useful bus routes:
- Centre (Oliva) to Shopping del Sol: 28, 30
- Centre to Shopping Mariscal Lopez/Villa Morra: 18, 26, 28, 30.2 (from Oliva), 56 (from Haedo)
- Centre (Oliva) to the Botanical Gardens: 1, 13
- Centre (Oliva) to the Bus Terminal: 8, 36
- Centre (Haedo) to Mercado 4: 2, 21, 25, 27, 29, 133
- Centre (Oliva) to the airport: 30A
On OpenStreetMap (which is used by mobile apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz), many bus stops are marked with the number of the buses passing by. This can give you a pretty good feeling about bus routes by searching for a bus number. Or just look up a destination and which bus numbers go there, then search for your nearest bus stop with any of the identified numbers.
By taxi
Taxis are also available and reasonably inexpensive. Many of the taxis are old, lumbering diesel Mercedes, which can be a fun throwback. A 30% surcharge is added on late at night (after around 22:00) and on Sundays. Tipping isn't expected. Make sure that drivers use the meter, or arrange a fare beforehand.
From the bus terminal
Walk up the stairs marked "SALIDA", then down the stairs into the car park. Ignore the taxi touts and catch a taxi from the rank. A taxi into the city centre during the day should cost around GS.40,000.
From the airport
Taxis in front of the terminal charge a flat, non-negotiable rate of GS.100,000 to the centre. It is possible to get a cheaper fare by walking up to the main road and taking a yellow cab from there, though you're unlikely to save any more than about GS.20,000.
By car
Driving a car is an excellent way to explore the city and visiting the sights as many of them are off the downtown area (microcentro). It's strongly recommended using a GPS when renting a car since the city streets and avenues lack good signaling and finding your way around can be challenging. Traffic in Asunción has become chaotic specially during the rush hours from 06:30 to 09:00, at 12:00, and from 17:00-20:00 on weekdays. Consider that going into/out of the city can take no less than 1 hour. Highways to places nearby are in good condition. Car rental companies can also provide drivers.
Parking in the city centre is signposted on every block, although it could be hard to find a free place to park the car in the mornings. Parking costs US$0.40 per hour in the microcentro streets but only in the mornings (from 08:00 to 13:00) and only on weekdays. In the afternoons and on weekends parking is free. A special situation comes up when you are parking your car on the street, some people called cuidacoches (car watchers) (men and women, young and old) will approach you and offer you to look after your car when you leave it parked, after that they would expect you to tip them (no more than US$2) when you return to your car. This is a common situation throughout the city specially around major sights (including city parks) and restaurants. It could be annoying at first, but locals are accustomed to this practice and it will be better for you to accept the offer and, by doing so, avoid any kind of trouble. If you prefer not being bothered leave your car in a parking lot. There are many of them scattered around the city centre. Major shopping malls offer valet parking.
By boat
The old 🌍 Port of Asunción is at the riverside end of calle Colón and El Paraguayo Independiente, where small motor boats and car ferries make the 25-minute river crossing to Chaco'í, a small town on the other side of the river where good views of Asunción can be observed. Make sure to return by sunset as there are no accommodation facilities or reasonable places to eat in Chaco'í.
The catamarán Aguas del Paraguay offers one and two-hour touristic trips along the bay of Asunción and the river Paraguay. It departs from and returns to the same point in the costanera and only on weekends.
See
- 🌍 National Congress of Paraguay (Palacio Legislativo), ☏ +595 21 414-5198. One of the more impressive new buildings in the city. It was built in 2002 with $20 million donation from the Republic of China (Taiwan) government. Paraguay is one of the few countries and also the only country in South America that recognizes Republic of China (Taiwan) as opposed to mainland China (People's Republic of China). Most striking is its mirrored façade, which reflects the nearby slums along the bank of the river. You can ask for a tour in English; and maybe get one. Arrive by 13:00, so that you will be able to visit the small museum inside.
- 🌍 Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana). The national cathedral. Next to the broad and picturesque plaza Independencia.
- 🌍 Panteón Nacional de los Heroes, Palma esquina Chile. Houses the tomb of the unknown soldier along with other national heroes from Paraguay's history, also commemorative plaques for heroes of the Triple Alliance and Chaco War. Changing of the guard occurs every other day.
- 🌍 Centro Cultural El Cabildo, Avenida República y Alberdi (at one edge of Plaza Independencia), ☏ +595 21 443 094, contacto@cabildoccr.gov.py. Tu-F 09:00-20:00; Sa Su 10:00-17:00. One of the few museums that open on weekends it's in an old colonial building that was the Congress Palace until 2003. Near the riverside costanera it has various exhibition spaces. The Sala Museo del Barro is one of the sections which presents pieces of indigenous art from native groups of Paraguay and Latin America. Another permanent exhibition space is the Sala Agustín Pío Barrios - Mangoré, which treasures the life and work of the great composer of the Paraguayan guitar. Another section is the Sala de la Escena Paraguaya - Edda de los Ríos which aims to disseminate everything related to the performing arts in Paraguay. There are also works from potter artist Julia Isídrez exhibiting a variety of clay works, in dark tone, with designs of faces, animals and nature figures. The Cabildo also incorporates works from traditional Christmas cribs by local artists such as Lucy Yegros, Gabriela Zuccolillo and Carlo Spatuzza. Free.
- 🌍 Casa de la Independencia, 14 de Mayo esquina Presidente Franco (one block down from Palma Street), ☏ +595 21 493918, info@casadelaindependencia.org.py. M-F 08:00-18:00; Sa 08:00-13:00. Historic house built in 1772 where the independence of Paraguay was secretly planned in 1811. Well preserved historic museum furnished with items of historic and artistic interest. Free.
- 🌍 Palacio de López (Government Palace). Houses the Paraguayan executive branch government. Very well lit at night. The interior is not open to the public.
- 🌍 Estación Central del Ferrocarril (Central Railway Station). Paraguay was the first country in South America to have a steam-powered train. It now houses a museum, but more impressive is the building itself and old wagons. free.
- 🌍 Teatro Municipal. Renovated; check for regular shows. Nice cafe at one of theater's corners.
- 🌍 Manzana de la Rivera. Cultural and exhibition complex in a series of interconnected old colonial houses comprising an entire square block. Has a nice outdoor cafe overlooking the Palacio de López. free.
- 🌍 Iglesia de la Encarnación. Big church with a big pipe organ, the only one in the country.
- 🌍 Mburuvicha Roga. The name translates as "the chief house" in Guarani language. It's where the presidential family lives. Not open to the public. Only the exterior is visible from its main entrance on Avenida Mariscal López.
- 🌍 Museo del Barro. Best museum in town. Displays of Paraguayan art, dating from pre-colonial ceramics and textiles to avant garde contemporary art.
- 🌍 Parque Seminario. 07:00-22:00. Lively park where people performs jogging and walking. It belongs to the Archdiocese of Asunción and it has a nice brick church, the Capellanía del Migrante, with English services. US$0.50 pedestrians, US$1.50 cars..
- 🌍 Plaza Uruguaya, between 25 de Mayo, México, José de Antequera y Castro, and Doctor Eligio Ayala. A nice shady park with bookstores and some old buildings around it. Free wifi.
- 🌍 Mirador Ita Pyta Punta, At the end of Calle Doctor Montero in Ita Pyta Punta neighbourhood (Few blocks away from final stops of Bus 56 and Bus 36). The name means red stone rock in Guaraní. Pleasant small park at one of the edges of the city. Attractive lookout over the river Paraguay with nice views of sunsets in the afternoons. Officially the lookout is "temporarily" closed and fenced off, but locals opened the doors through it. Ita Pyta Punta is not the safest neighbourhood at night. Maybe better accessible by taxi if you're alone.
Beyond the city
There are many interesting sights within reach of 1 or 2 days tours from Asunción. Check out the Southern Paraneña region for these.
Do
- Trade fair. Every July. An exhibition booths, food, music and liquor. This is a good way to learn about what goes on in the country, the exhibitors range from agricultural suppliers to liquor manufacturers. Keep an eye out for the many free samples of food, soap, drinks, etc.
- 🌍 Ñu Guazu. Spend the day or enjoy a picnic at Ñu Guazu, Asunción's biggest park. Full of ponds, and people playing sports.
- 🌍 Running, Parque Ñu Guazú. Lots of elite Asunceños work off the stresses of their days at Parque Ñu Guazú, just outside Asunción in the city of Luque, on the way to the airport. There's a great paved 9-km loop for jogging or walking.
- 🌍 Jardín Botánico y Zoológico, Av Primer Presidente, ☏ +595 21 281 389. Visit the botanical garden and zoo - it's a very peaceful place filled with trees and nice paths. Find a nice shady spot and enjoy a picnic lunch. Inside the park you can visit Madame Lynch's house, very beautiful example of Paraguayan colonial architecture.
- Dusk walk. Walk the main roads of the center in Asunción between 15-17:00 for beautifully illuminated alleys and colored buildings for some great pictures.
Soccer
Watch a soccer match at one of Asunción's stadiums. The classic rivals are Cerro Porteno and Olimpia.
- 🌍 Estadio Defensores del Chaco, Sajonia. 42,354 capacity stadium which is home of the Paraguay national football team, Club Guaraní and Club Olimpia.
- 🌍 Estadio General Pablo Rojas. 45,000 capacity stadium home to Cerro Porteño.
Historic centre (walking tour)
To start walking the microcentro of Asunción go to the bottom of Calle Colón, just before it corners El Paraguayo Independiente, are the colonial façades of La Recova, an array of shops selling local arts and crafts. The river port and Aduana (customs) building are just in front. Continue east along Calle El Paraguayo Independiente to the Palacio de López (government palace) from 1857. It was built in the style of Versailles by Alan Taylor as a palace for Francisco Solano López. Directly opposite the palace is the Manzana de la Rivera, a museum and cultural centre complex comprising ten colonial-era houses, some of which date back from the 1700s and have been nicely restored. They include the Casa Viola, reportedly the oldest house of Asunción, which now houses the Museo Memoria de la Ciudad with historical photos and city information. Casa Clari with exhibition halls and a nice bar which has the best views over the government palace. Other spaces in the complex are the Miguel Acevedo Cultural Centre, the Ruy Díaz de Guzmán Auditorium, and Casa Vertúa, which houses the municipal library.
A block away east from the government palace is the Congreso Nacional, built in 2013 in steel and glass representing a huge ship moored on the river bank and incorporating part of the old congress building. Next to it, on Plaza de la Independencia there is a small memorial to those who died in the struggle for democracy in 1999. On the other sides of the plaza are the old Cabildo building (1844-54) now the Centro Cultural de la República with permanent exhibitions of indigenous and religious art, the Catedral Metropolitana (mid-17th century, rebuilt 1842-49) with an altar decorated with Jesuit and Franciscan silver. From the plaza turn right onto Alberdi and to your right is the Correos (post office) building, known previously as the Palacio Patri. It has a beautiful inside courtyard and a small philatelic museum. One block south at Alberdi and Presidente Franco is the Teatro Municipal fully restored to its belle époque glory. Walk east on Presidente Franco for six blocks and there will be the Estación del Ferrocarril (old railway station) at Eligio Ayala and Mexico. It was built in 1861-64 with British assistance. Paraguay had one of the first passenger railways in South America. There are no more trains running but there is a small museum featuring the old ticket office, machinery from Wolverhampton and Battersea and the first steam engine in Paraguay, the Sapucai from 1861. In front is the Plaza Uruguaya with its shady trees and a handful of bookstores. From here take Calle Mariscal Estigarribia west towards the Plaza de los Héroes where there will be the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes at the corner of Palma and Chile, which is based on Les Invalides of Paris and finished in 1937. It contains the remains of former presidents, national war heroes and the unknown soldier. Plaza de los Héroes is actually made up of four separate squares with different names. These include Plaza Libertad and Plaza de la Democracia.
On Plaza Libertad, there are covered market stalls selling traditional Paraguayan arts and crafts in wood, cotton and leather. Along Palma, indigenous women sell colourful woven bags, beads and baskets. A few blocks further along Palma turn right at 14 de Mayo to reach the Casa de la Independencia (independence house) built in 1772 with a historical collection; it was the place where the 1811 independence revolution was plotted. The huge Iglesia de Encarnación is three blocks up 14 de Mayo at its intersection with Víctor Haedo, where the Museo Papa Francisco is. A small museum with all the relics related to the Pope Francis visit to Asunción in 2015.
Architectural tour
If you are particularly interested in architecture, the following are some important highlights:
- 🌍 Loma San Jerónimo
- Mirador Ita Pyta Punta (see above)
- 🌍 Colégio Experimental Paraguay‑Brasil (CEPB) – by Affonso Eduardo Reidy
- 🌍 Cultural Center of Spain Juan de Salazar
- 🌍 Fundacion Texo – (open Thursdays)
- Museo del Parro (see above) – (open Wednesdays)
- 🌍 Teletón Children’s Rehabilitation Center – by Solano Benítez, in Lambaré (Asunción)
- 🌍 Paraguayan Association of Golf (APG) – by Javier Corvalán (near the airport)
Learn
- IDIPAR, Manduvirá 963 between Colón and Montevideo, ☏ +595 21 44 78 96, idipar82@gmail.com. Offers courses in Spanish and Guarani for foreigners and several other services.
Work
Teaching English is a possibility, but without a visa it can be difficult and wages are low. In a country such as Paraguay with widespread underemployment, obtaining paid work is almost impossible for foreigners. Volunteer work in poorer areas of the city is easy to come by.
Buy
The cost of buying goods and services is amazingly cheap, especially electronics. Some goods may be refurbished items, or cheaply made, or could be pirated or smuggled items. Always ask for a legitimacy or warranty certificate and if you have any doubt or do not trust the vendor, just go to another store. Commercial activity in the city centre closes from Saturday afternoon to all Sunday and the city may appear fairly deserted, but the bustle is in the neighbourhoods of Villa Morra, Carmelitas and the Business District where the main shopping centers, department stores, boutiques, cafés, fast food, restaurants and cinemas are, and they don't close on weekends.
Indigenous crafts and artisan work
Indigenous crafts and artisan work are available such as tooled leather, carved wood, pottery and a particularly Paraguayan lace based on a spider's web called "Ñandutí". Check out the artisan shops in Plaza de los Heroes. Most goods are in fact locally made.
Shopping malls
There are two main malls in Asuncion: Shopping del Sol on Aviadores del Chaco and Shopping Mariscal López on Avenida Mariscal Lopez, exist in the suburbs of Villa Mora and Carmelitas. Take buses 28 or 30 to reach them.
Mall Excelsior on Chile, and the more basic Asuncion Supercentro on the western end of Oliva are both in the centre. These "Shoppings" are useful as places to eat on Sunday evenings, when many more central places are closed.
- 🌍 Shopping del Sol (delSol Shopping & Lifestyle), ☏ +595 21 606 909.
- 🌍 Shopping Mariscal López, Quesada 5050.
- 🌍 Mall Excelsior, Manduvira, ☏ +595 21 443 015.
- 🌍 Asuncion Super Centro, ☏ +595 21 493 333.
Markets
- 🌍 Palma Street, Calle Palma. The main shopping street. Pretty much everything you can buy here, you can get cheaper in one of the parallel streets.
- 🌍 Mercado 4, along Avenida Sivio Pettirossi. A chaotic market where you can buy just about anything very cheaply, it is particularly good for counterfeit clothing and pirated CDs and DVDs (of varying quality). Most Paraguayans still shop at local produce markets, but you can buy everything at great prices. Good street food and some foreign, mostly Chinese, restaurants.
- Sunday flea market, along calle Palma. From early morning until noon approximately. Several old men set up their tables selling trinkets, photographs and books.
Typical souvenirs from Asunción would include guampas/bombillas, T-shirts, traditional lace, or leather goods.
Traveller's cheques
- American Express traveller's cheques can be changed at Banco de la Nacion Argentina (at Plaza de los Heroes). Above average exchange rate, US$3 commission. It will take a while though - time to experience the place which could be a sight in itself. BBVN supposedly does as well. Casa de Cambios don't. All banks close by 13:30. Also can be changed at Maxicambios which are in all main shopping malls.
Eat
At lunchtime there is no shortage of cheap restaurants to dine in or take away – you can't miss them. The places where you help yourself and pay by weight are usually very cheap and a decent option besides the slightly more expensive restaurants with their daily menu. At dinner time only very few eating places are still open and finding a good deal – especially if you are budget-conscious – is a lot harder.
Budget
Most shopping malls have decent food courts with a variety of restaurants, however, they are away from the centre. Bigger supermarkets often have cheap self-service restaurants inside.
Eat a streetside lomito- these vendors are found throughout the city, with high concentrations near Casa Rica and the Ñu Guazu. It is a sandwich, with mayo, veggies, cheese and a fried egg. You can choose between beef or chicken. Some also offer lomito arabe (shawarma), hamburgers and chorizo. It is a popular hang out place at nights and after a night of heavy drinking.
Don Vito is Paraguayan fast food at its best. Home of the Paraguayan empanada, they have been in business for over 30 years. The original spot is just behind the Iglesia de San Jose, and if you are lucky enough to be in Paraguay around May–June, you can order a pastel mandi'o, which is made of mandioca and beef. Best enjoyed with a cold pulp, a Paraguayan soft drink made with natural fruit juice.
- 🌍 Burger King, Palma between 14 de Mayo and 15 de Agosto. If you fancy something you know. Also, open in the evening.
- 🌍 Ña Eustaquia, 421 Palma, past Lido's and the hall of martyrs, near Burger King. Very busy for lunch, you may need to wait for a table. Main lunches cost GS.15,000–GS.25,000. Great juice bar there too.
- 🌍 Seoul, Chile, near the intersection with Oliva (Plaza de los Heroes) and opposite an Esso petrol station. Open for lunch and dinner (19:30). Korean buffet, with many vegetarian options where you fill your plate and pay per weight.
Mid-range
- 🌍 El Bolsi, corner Estrella and Alberdi, ☏ +595 21 491841, info@bolsi.com.py. Daily 24 hours. Opened in 1960, it's one of the oldest restaurants in town. It has a café and pastry section, and a separate restaurant section. Also, an outdoor section on the sidewalk is pleasant in the evenings. International and local dishes. Very popular among locals and tourists.
- 🌍 Lido Bar, corner of Palma and Chile (opposite Panteón del los Héroes), ☏ +595 21 447332. 06:30-01:30. Established 1954 in the style of a contemporary American cafe-bar, Lido Bar has hardly changed. It was the first place Anthony Bourdain visited when he made his tv program on Paraguayan food. All the customers sit around a big circular bar. The menu offers Paraguayan foods, pasta, meat and a selection of desserts and fruit juices. The fish soup (sopa pescado) is famous and recommended. Very popular during peak times, particularly lunch and dinner.
- 🌍 Hacienda Las Palomas, Senador Long 1481 (100m from Shopping Villa Morra in Villa Morra neighbourhood), ☏ +595 21 605-111. Really good Mexican food (not "chips & salsa Tex-Mex"). The margaritas are particularly good, but the food is even better.
- 🌍 Shangri-La, Aviadores del Chaco c/ San Martín (near Shopping del Sol), ☏ +595 21 661618, info@shangri-la.com.py. Good Chinese food.
- 🌍 Bar San Roque, corner of Eligio Ayala and Tacuary (near Plaza Uruguaya Green building.). Open all day. One of the oldest restaurants in town. A mix of traditional and fine cuisine. Excellent food and service in a very traditional feeling atmosphere. Really fantastic beer on tap served in their chilled Oktoberfest steins.
Splurge
For a traditional Paraguayan meal, visit "La Paraguayita." Don't miss a Brazilian steak house called a "churrasqueria."
- 🌍 Acuarela, Avenida Mariscal López 4049, near Avenida República Argentina (in Villa Morra neighbourhood), ☏ +595 21 609 217. Brazilian-style barbecue and steak restaurant.
Drink
Bars and clubs
- 🌍 Britannia Pub, Cerro Corá 851 (next to Hotel Crowne Plaza), ☏ +595 21 443 990, britpub@rieder.net.py. Tu-F from 19:30, Sa-Su from 20:00. Popular hangout for locals and foreigners. Try their microbrewed Britannia Beer and the chicken platter.
- 🌍 904 Bar, Cerro Corá 904 (in front of Hotel Crowne Plaza), ☏ +595 986 230963. M-Th from 18:00, F from 17:00, Sa from 19:00. A lot like Britannia: similar food, similar drinks, similar prices. Has a pool table, and occasionally puts on live-music shows.
- 🌍 Coyote, Sucre 1655 (100m from Avenida San Martín), ☏ +595 21 414 111. Dance club, fashionable but loud
- 🌍 Hollywood Dance, Independencia Nacional and Teniente Fariña (One block away from Mall Excelsior), ☏ +595 981 906494. F and Sa from around midnight. Dance venue for mostly gay people.
- 🌍 Paseo Carmelitas, ☏ +595 21 608226. from morning till late. Food plaza with a selection of bars and restaurants to go at noon for lunch and after office until late at night. One of the most popular places in Asuncion during the night and on weekends.
- 🌍 La Tabernita, Chila 1179 between Avenida Ygatimí and Jejuí (near Plaza Italia), ☏ +595 21 453620, latabernacafe97@gmail.com. 07:00-15:00 and 18:30-late. A cafe bar with good atmosphere, good music, drinks and very friendly staff (if you like 1970s, 80s, 90s rock & pop).
- 🌍 Casa Clari, Ayolas and Benjamin Constant (inside Manzana de la Rivera complex in front to Palacio de López), ☏ +595 21 496 476. Really nice views of the López Palace. Good food/drink menu, but slightly pricier than other bars in the centre.
Sleep
The lodging scene in Asunción has greatly improved. The hostel range, previously nonexistent, started business in the past decade and since then has seen a lot of new openings, especially in old houses of the historic city centre. On the other hand, many new modern hotels, including some luxury properties of international brands, have opened their doors in the new business district of Avenida Aviadores del Chaco and Avenida Santa Teresa. Finding a bed should not be difficult for the common traveller. The highest concentration of hotels from budget to splurge can be found in the historic city centre and the new business district. There are also quite a number of cheap places near the bus terminal, though you normally get better values in the city centre.
City Centre
The centro histórico is where the traditional hotels are found, some of them occupying beautiful buildings from the 1960s and even from the 19th century. This is also where the hostels are, so backpackers and budget travellers are normally found in this area.
Hostels
- 🌍 Black Cat Hostel (temporarily closed, momentarily we only offer tourist advice), Eligio Ayala 129 casi Independencia Nacional (At the heart of city centre. One block north from main square. One block south from cathedral.), ☏ +595 21 449827. The first hostel for backpackers in Asunción. Breakfast included in room rate, fully equipped kitchen for the guests and WiFi Internet, luggage storage and safety deposit. Swimming pool and a beautiful terrace with a grill for cookouts. Single private room with a/c US$20; double private room with a/c (double bed or twin) US$35; double private room en suite with a/c (double bed) US$45; 8-bed mixed dorm with a/c US$12 per person; 14-bed mixed dorm US$9 per person.
- 🌍 El Viajero Asuncion Hostel & Suites, Alberdi 734 casi Humaitá, ☏ +595 21 444563. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Single US$26, double US$30, bed in dormitory room US$9.
- 🌍 Giuseppe Hostal & Suites, Eligio Ayala 1037 (near downtown), ☏ +595 21 211479, +595 21 200397, contactos@giuseppehostalandsuites.com. Check-in: 14:00. Breakfast included. double US$41 w/private bathroom.
- 🌍 Hostal El Jardin, Azara 941 between Estados Unidos and Tacuary, ☏ +595 985 807007, eljardinhostal@hotmail.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Situated in a historical building in downtown Asuncion. Clean, comfortable dorms as well as privates rooms. Toilets and showers separated for men and women w/ 24h hot water. Common area w/ cable-TV, rustic fully equipped kitchen, free breakfast and free Internet/WiFi. Double rooms comes with a double bed and a/c. 4 bed dorms come with a/c or fan. Standard double bed (shared bathroom) US$32. Standard 6 bed mixed dorm US$10.
Budget
- 🌍 Hotel La Española, Herrera 142 casi Yegros (At city centre. Three blocks from main square.), ☏ +595 21 447312, hotellaespanolaasuncion@gmail.com. Air conditioning, cable TV, free WiFi, parking. Continental breakfast included. US$30 doubles.
- 🌍 Hotel Rosa II, 25 de Mayo 352 casi Caballero (between the Plaza de los Héroes and the Plaza Uruguaya), ☏ +595 21 446 093. No breakfast. Big patio with trees. The rooms are basic but spacious with private bathroom. US$20 doubles.
- 🌍 Hotel San Diego, Colon 356 entre Palma y Estrella (in downtown), ☏ +595 21 490786. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. Single US$30; double US$36.
- 🌍 Posada Colonial, Pai Pérez 637 entre Herrera y Azara, ☏ +595 21 200821, colonialposada@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. No sign outside of the hotel Single US$20, double US$30.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Aspen Hotel & Apart, Ayolas 581 esquina General Díaz, ☏ +595 21 496066, +595 21 493097, aspen@aspen.com.py. Single US$60, double US$70.
- 🌍 Asunción Palace Hotel, Colon 415 esquina Estrella, ☏ +595 21 492151, aphotel@yahoo.com. Check-in: 11:00, check-out: 10:00. In a historic building dating from 1858. Single US$40, double US$50, triple US$66,.
- 🌍 Excelsior Inn, Manduvirá and Alberdi (one block from Mall Excelsior), ☏ +595 21 496 743, reservas@excelsior.com.py. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. double US$57, triple US$90.
- 🌍 Gran Hotel Armele, Palma esquina Colón (in downtown), ☏ +595 21 444455, reservas@hotelarmele.com.py. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. Single US$43; double US$49; triple US$73; quad US$97.
- 🌍 Gran Hotel Paraná, Caballero 421 esquina 25 de Mayo, ☏ +595 21 444236, info.hotelparana@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Single US$54.50 double US$63.60 triple US$72.70.
- 🌍 Hotel Amalfi, Caballero 877 casi Manuel Domínguez, ☏ +595 21 441162, amalfi@hotelamalfi.com.py. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 11:00. Single US$49, double US$59, quad US$79.
- 🌍 Hotel Bristol, 15 de Agosto 472 casi Oliva (In historic downtown), ☏ +595 21 494254, reservas@hotelbristol.com.py. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:30. Single US$45, double US$53, triple US$60, quad US$70.
- 🌍 Hotel Cecilia, Estados Unidos 341 esquina Mariscal Estigarribia, ☏ +595 21 210365, reservas@hotelcecilia.com.py. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. Single US$65.45, double US$72.27.
- 🌍 Hotel Chaco, Caballero 285 esquina Mariscal Estigarribia (on main street, near Plaza Uruguaya), ☏ +595 21 492 066, info@hotelchaco.com.py. double from US$63.
- 🌍 Hotel Palmas del Sol, Avenida España 202 casi Tacurary, ☏ +595 21 609 395, info@hotelportaldelsol.com. Near downtown and Plaza Uruguaya. Breakfast included. Swimming pool. Free Internet and WiFi. Car parking. double US$37, triple US$46, quad US$57.
- 🌍 Hotel Preciado, Azara 840 casi Tacuary, ☏ +595 21 447661, +595 21 453937, hotelpreciado@yahoo.es. In a 19th-century building, close to the centre. Doubles around US$40.
- 🌍 Hotel Zaphir, Estrella 955 casi Colón, ☏ +595 21 490258, zaphir@pla.net.py.
- 🌍 Mandua'ra Hotel & Suites, Mexico 554 casi Azara (150 mts from Plaza Uruguaya), ☏ +595 21 490 223, reservas@manduara.com.py. Check-in: 10:00, check-out: 10:00. Single US$62; double US$72; triple US$90.
Splurge
- 🌍 Hotel Crowne Plaza Asunción, Cerro Corá 939 (In downtown, on Cerro Corá between Estados Unidos and Tacuary), ☏ +595 21 452 682, fax: +595 21 452 683, reservas@crowneasuncion.com.py. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. double US$110 incl. breakfast.
- 🌍 Hotel Guaraní, Oliva entre Independencia Nacional y Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (in front of Plaza de los Héroes), ☏ +595 21 452099, reservas@hotelguarani.com.py. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A landmark. Most centrally located hotel in Asunción. Single US$86, double US$98, suite US$127.
- 🌍 Hotel Internacional, Ayolas 520, ☏ +595 21 494114, reservas@hotelinternacional.com.py. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 13:00. double US$65 incl. breakfast.
- 🌍 Hotel Las Margaritas, Estrella esquina 15 de Agosto, ☏ +595 21 448765, reservas@lasmargaritas.com.py. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:30. double US$80, executive suite US$115, junior suite US$130.
- 🌍 Hotel Premier Hill, 25 de Mayo esquina Curupayty, ☏ +595 21 215005, comercial@premierhill.com.py. On top of one of the seven hills of Asunción, it offers good views of the city. Twin double US$64, double US$84, executive room US$96.80, suite w/balcony US$103.
- 🌍 Sabe Center Hotel (Hotel Sabe), 25 de Mayo esquina México (next to Playa Uruguaya), ☏ +595 21 450093, reservas@sabecenterhotel.com.py. Check-in: 12:30, check-out: 12:00. Single US$86, double US$99, suite US$190.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Gran Hotel del Paraguay, De la Residenta 902 esquina Padre Pucheau, Barrio Las Mercedes (1½ km east of downtown), ☏ +595 21 200051, reservas@granhoteldelparaguay.com.py. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. double US$78; triple US$110; suite US$115.
- 🌍 Hotel Le Moustier Suites, Teniente Insaurralde 347, Barrio Virgen del Huerto (3 km east of downtown), ☏ +595 21 283740, +595 21 283727, reservas@lemoustier.com.py. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. Single US$78; double US$87.
- 🌍 La Morada Posada Boutique, Patria 777 esquina Enrique Solano López, Barrio Jara (100 m from Avenida Brasilia, midway between City Centre and Carmelitas, Business District.), ☏ +595 21 212170, info@lamorada.com.py. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Residential-style property in a quiet neighbourhood. Swimming pool. Single US$55, double US$66, junior suite US$100.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Hassler Hotel Villa Morra, Hassler 5675 casi Nudelman, Barrio Villa Morra, ☏ +595 21 664 253, hasslerhotel@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Single US$56; double US$66; triple US$78.
- 🌍 Hotel Bavaria, Avenida Choferes del Chaco 1010 (1 km south from Recoleta church and Avenida Mariscal López), ☏ +595 21 600966, info@hotel-bavaria-py.com. double US$65.
- 🌍 Hotel Casa Suiza, Senador Long 389 between Andrade and Del Maestro, Barrio Villa Morra (three blocks north from Avenida Mariscal López and Shopping Villa Morra), ☏ +595 21 603 492, reservas@hotelcasasuiza.com. Check-in: 12:30, check-out: 11:30. double US$47, triple US$55.
- 🌍 Hotel Los Alpes - Villa Morra, Del Maestro 1686 (in Villa Morra 100 m from Avenida San Martín), ☏ +595 21 606-286, +595 984 737644, losalpesvillamorra@hotmail.com. Check-in: 11:00, check-out: 14:00. Breakfast included in room rate. Free WiFi. Swimming pools and gym. Single US$47, double US$50, triple US$128, quad US$142.
- 🌍 Hotel Maison Suisse, Malutín 482 entre Bertoni y Del Maestro, Barrio Villa Morra, ☏ +595 21 600003, reservas@hotelcasasuiza.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 11:30. Single US$50, double US$66, triple US$70.
- 🌍 Ross Char Hotel, Avenida Choferes del Chaco 1478 esquina Cerro Corá, Barrio Mburicaó (from Recoleta cemetery go south 1.6 km), ☏ +595 21 608598, rosscharhotel@hotmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Doubles from US$56.
Splurge
- 🌍 Hotel Villa Morra Suites, Avenida Mariscal López 3001, Barrio Villa Morra, ☏ +595 21 612715, reservas@villamorrasuites.com.py. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. Single US$127.50 double US$144.50.
- 🌍 Hub Hotel Asunción, J. Eulogio Estigarribia esquina Teniente Zotti, Barrio Villa Morra (behind Shopping Mariscal), ☏ +595 21 608301, reservas@thehub.com.py. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. double studio US$103, superior studio US$135, deluxe studio US$151, suite US$176.
- 🌍 Factoria Hotel, Dr. Francisco Morra 813, ☏ +595 21 612 100, reservas@factoriahotel.com.py. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. double US$162, suites from US$234.
- 🌍 La Casona Hotel Boutique, Mac Arthur 444 entre Dr. Hassler y Campos Cervera, Barrio Villa Morra, ☏ +595 21 662458, +595 982 168000, reservas@lacasonahotel.com.py. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. King suite US$99.
- 🌍 La Misión Hotel Boutique, Dr. J. Eulogio Estigarribia esquina San Roque González de Santacruz, Barrio Villa Morra (behind Shopping Mariscal), ☏ +595 21 621800, reservas@lamision.com.py. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Executive double US$176, junior suite double US$224, senior suite US$272, flat suite US$301.
- 🌍 Villa Floreal Hotel Boutique, Cruz del Chaco 5160 esq. Alfredo Seiferheld, Barrio Villa Morra, ☏ +595 21 608522, info@villafloreal.com.py. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. double US$90.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Apart Hotel Porta Westfalica, Dr. Camacho Duré 555, ☏ +595 971 208572, pw@suncion.de. double from US$56 weekly and monthly rates also available.
- 🌍 Casa Sucre 1874, Sucre 1874 casi José Ocampos Lanzoni, Barrio Villa Morra, ☏ +595 983 471 111, +595 21 328 5534. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Bed and breakfast in a renovated residential house. double US$60.
- 🌍 Danieri Hotel, Capitán Domingo Ortiz 1231 casi Julio Correa (near Centro Paraguayo Japonés), ☏ +595 21 338 2999, didanierihotel@gmail.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. Single/double US$62.
- 🌍 Hotel Los Alpes - Santa Teresa, Avenida Santa Teresa 2855 (A few blocks away from business district.), ☏ +595 21 607348, +595 981 552066, losalpessantateresa@gmail.com. Owned by the same people who own the Los Alpes - Villa Morra. The Los Alpes - Santa Teresa is larger and has better swimming pools. Wi-Fi, breakfast included. This location is better except for the fact that it's harder to catch a bus from here since they don't pass down Santa Teresa. double from US$45.
- 🌍 Hotel Portal del Sol, Denis Roa 1.455 (near Avenida Santa Teresa), ☏ +595 21 609 395, fax: +595 21 662 910, info@hotelportaldelsol.com. double US$47, triple US$55 incl. breakfast.
- 🌍 Le Pelican Hotel, Avenida Santa Teresa 2489 esquina Gumercindo Sosa (1 block from Paseo La Galería), ☏ +595 21 661436, reservas@hotellepelican.com. Single US$55; double US$58; triple US$80.
Splurge
- 🌍 Arthaus Boutique Hotel, Cáceres Zorrilla 1325, Barrio Las Lomas (250 mts behind Shopping del Sol), ☏ +595 21 604550, +595 986 233740, info@arthaushotel.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Double/triple US$90, quad US$120.
- 🌍 Dazzler Asunción, Avenida Aviadores del Chaco esquina Vasconcellos, ☏ +595 21 6594600, reservas@dazzlerasuncion.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Standard double US$89, superior double US$97.50, triple US$115.
- 🌍 De Las Torres Hotel, Paseo La Galería, Torre 1, 9th floor, ☏ +595 21 600399, reservas@delastorreshotel.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Double US$95.
- 🌍 Esplendor Asunción Wyndham Grand Hotel, Avenida Aviadores del Chaco 2822 casi Avenida Molas López, ☏ +595 21 601626, reservas@esplendorasuncion.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Single US$87, double US$93, triple US$121.80.
- 🌍 Hotel Aloft Asunción, Avenida Aviadores del Chaco 1761 (in front of World Trade Center Asunción), ☏ +595 21 247 7000, reservas.asuncion@alofthotels.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. double US$105.
- 🌍 Hotel Westfalenhaus, Sargento 1° Manuel Benítez 1577 between Kuarajhy and Prof. Fernández (in Santisima Trinidad neighbourhood), ☏ +595 21 292 374, hotel@westfalenhaus.com. Breakfast included. Restaurant is renowned in town. Single from US$90, double from US$123.
- 🌍 Las Lomas Casa Hotel, Narciso R. Colmán 1909, Barrio Las Lomas (near Shopping del Sol), ☏ +595 21 621700, info@laslomascasahotel.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00.
- 🌍 Paramanta Lifestyle Hotel, Avenida. Aviadores del Chaco 3198 casi Avenida Santísima Trinidad, ☏ +595 21 607053, gerencia@paramantahotel.com.py. Single US$90, double US$99, triple US$154.
- 🌍 Sheraton Asunción Hotel, Avenida Aviadores del Chaco 2066 casi Avenida Santa Teresa, ☏ +595 21 617-7000, fax: +595 21 617-7001, reservas.asuncion@sheraton.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Business oriented hotel at the heart of the Asuncion business district. Surrounded by Asuncion's largest shopping malls. double US$163 incl. breakfast.
Budget
- 🌍 Hotel San Pablo, Alcides González 1578 entre Tavapy y Alto Paraná, Barrio Nazareth (near bus terminal), ☏ +595 21 552 149, +595 972 446010, rioparaguay@hotmail.com. Doubles around US$25.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Hotel Santo Domingo, Alcides Gonzalez esquina Osvaldo Kalsen (near bus terminal), ☏ +595 21 550130, hdomingo@highway.com.py. Check-in: 10:00, check-out: 10:30. Doubles around US$50.
- 🌍 Los Jazmines B&B, Prof. Sofía Mendoza 160 (near bus terminal), ☏ +595 21 326 5393, info@losjazmines.com.py. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:30. Single US$36, double US$48.
Outer Asunción
- 🌍 Hotel Mabel, Ruta Transchaco esquina Corrales, Mariano Roque Alonso, ☏ +595 21 753823, reservas@hotelmabel.com.py. 17 km from Asuncion city centre in the northern suburb of Mariano Roque Alonso. Single US$36, double US$54, triple US$72.
- 🌍 Bourbon Conmebol Convention Hotel, Avenida Sudamericana, Luque (1½ km from airport, in front of Conmebol headquarters), ☏ +595 21 659 1000, reservas.conmebol@bourbon.com.py. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Single US$139, double US$160.
- 🌍 Resort Yacht & Golf Club Paraguayo (Hotel del Yacht), Avenida del Yacht, Lambaré, ☏ +595 21 906121, resort@resortyacht.com.py. 14 km from downtown in the suburb of Lambaré. It has a private beach on the River Paraguay. Various restaurants and cafés. Two swimming pools. Golf, tennis, aquatic sports. Single US$110, double US$132, executive suite US$167.50, deluxe room US$288.
Stay safe
The National Police has a highly visible presence. Under the dictatorship of Alfredo Stroessner crime in any form was not tolerated. Crime is not prevalent, although the perception of crime is that it has been high since Stroessner's fall in 1989. Some houses are protected by 20 ft (6.1 m) high walls topped by barbed wire and electric fence or razor wire, and those who can afford it have a full-time guard on their grounds. Despite the locals' rather high perception of crime, Asunción is one of the safer capitals in South America and violent crime is very uncommon. Because there are few tourists in Paraguay, visitors are not likely to be specifically targeted by criminals. Key things to watch out for are petty thieves (watch your pockets on crowded buses) and taxi drivers trying to rip you off (make sure they use the meter). Pickpocketing is said to be prevalent in crowded downtown streets near expensive hotels.
Prostitution is rampant and obvious after dark on the main avenues in the outskirts and in small parts of the city center's oldest parts near the port. Transvestite prostitutes are common around many areas, and are best avoided as they are known to cause trouble occasionally. Female travellers will receive a lot of unwanted attention from Paraguayan men – this is mostly intended as innocent banter in the form of shouts or wolf whistles, etc., but can sometimes be accompanied by touching, especially in clubs. This sort of attention is best just ignored. Liquor is easily available but not widely abused, there are a fair few street drunks in some parts of the city, but they are invariably harmless.
Be extremely careful when crossing streets in Asunción. Most drivers consider stop signs and traffic lights to be merely suggestions, even if police are nearby. Buses will stop for almost nothing, so be very careful.
The United States Centres for Disease Control recommends that all visitors to Asunción receive a typhoid vaccination prior to travel. Dengue fever is frequently a risk one takes when travelling to Asunción; there is no vaccine for this. To avoid insect-spread diseases, ensure that you use bug spray at all times of the day, without exception.
The "Chacarita" area by the river, next to the Palace is an extremely impoverished and dangerous part of the city, and is definitely not a place to go exploring.
Connect
Many restaurants, shopping malls and some public squares have free Wi-Fi.
Cope
Flies, ants and especially mosquitoes (but no large, creepy bugs) are everywhere. There are no screens, windows and doors are simply flung open for ventilation. Air conditioners do exist but most people depend on less expensive fans. Heaters do not exist, though on the chilliest days they would be welcomed. The soil is bright red and as many streets are unpaved dust becomes a problem. There are trees (some in the middle of roads!) for shade, but palm trees are planted everywhere. Dogs and farm animals of every description are all over the roads. There is no humane society to care for wild dogs and some are pitifully mangy. It is not uncommon to see pigs wallowing in a mud puddle in the middle of a road, chickens are everywhere, horses, donkeys and cows run loose and can be found in anyone's property.
It is brutally hot in Paraguay's summer. If you've ever wondered why Latin culture has a "siesta" where everything closes down at noon for a few hours, you'll soon know why if you spend time in Asunción during the summer. You'll also understand why people eat dinner so late and stay out partying all night: it's too hot during the day to enjoy being outside.
Embassies
- 🌍 Argentina, Avenida España esq. Avenida Perú, ☏ +595 21 212-320, +595 21 212-324, fax: +595 21 211-029, contacto_epara@cancilleria.gob.ar.
- 🌍 Bolivia, Israel 309 esq. Río de Janeiro, ☏ +595 21 211-430, +595 21 211-331, fax: +595 21 211-217, emboliviapy@tigo.com.py.
- 🌍 Brazil, Coronel Irrazábal esq. Eligio Ayala, ☏ +595 21 248-4000, fax: +595 21 212-693, brasemb.assuncao@itamaraty.gov.br.
- 🌍 Chile, Capitán Nudelmann 351 esq. Campos Cervera, ☏ +595 21 662-756, +595 21 613-855, fax: +595 21 662-755, echilepy@tigo.com.py. 08:30-17:00.
- 🌍 Colombia, Papa Juan XXIII esq. Cecilio Da Silva. Edificio Juan XXIII, 4to. piso, ☏ +595 21 661-146, +595 21 661-147, eparaguay@cancilleria.gov.co. 08:00-14:00.
- 🌍 Ecuador, Doctor Bestard 861 esquina Juan XXIII, Barrio Manorá, ☏ +595 21 665-060, +595 21 614-814, fax: +595 21 614-813, eecuparaguay@cancilleria.gob.ec.
- 🌍 France (Embajada Francesa), Avda. España 893 esq. Padre Pucheu, ☏ +595 21 212269 212449, fax: +595 21 211-690.
- 🌍 Germany (Embajada Alemana), Venezuela 241 entre Avenida Mariscal López y Avenida España, ☏ +595 21 214-009, +595 21 214-010, +595 21 214-011, fax: +595 21 212-863, info@asuncion.diplo.de. M-F 08:00-11:00.
- 🌍 Israel (Embajada Israelita), Avenida Aviadores del Chaco 2050, Edificio World Trade Center, Torre 4, Piso 19, ☏ +595 21 659-6500, fax: +595 21 659-6555, publicdiplomacy@asuncion.mfa.gov.il. M-F 09:30-12:30.
- 🌍 Italy (Embajada Italiana), Quesada 5871 casi Belgica, ☏ +595 21 615620, +595 21 615621, fax: +595 21 615622. M-Th 09:00-12:00.
- 🌍 Japan, Avenida Mariscal López 2364, ☏ +595 21 604616, fax: +595 21 606901, japon.embajada@as.mofa.go.jp. 08:00-12:00 and 13:00-16:45.
- 🌍 Mexico, Avenida España 1428 casi San Rafael, ☏ +595 21 6182000, embamex@embamex.com.py.
- 🌍 Panama, Carmen Soler 3.912 esquina Radio Operadores del Chaco, Barrio Mburicaó, ☏ +595 21 211-091, fax: +595 21 211-091, embapana@gmail.com.
- 🌍 Peru (Embajada Peruana), López Moreira 812 esquina Nuestra Señora del Carmen, Barrio Carmelitas, ☏ +595 21 607-431, +595 21 606-460, fax: +595 21 607-327, embperu@embperu.com.py.
- Romania, Río Tebicuary Nº 2011-21 esq. Genaro Romero (Bº Stma.Trinidad), ☏ +595 21 297440, fax: +595 21 297 441, consrom_asu@click.com.py. Honorary Consulate (Does not provide consular services. Instead, Romanian citizens in need of assistance should contact the embassy in Buenos Aires, Argentina, or the embassy of another European Union member state.)
- 🌍 Russia (Embajada Rusa), Avenida Molas López 689, Barrio Carmelitas, ☏ +595 21 623-733, +595 21 623-734, fax: +595 21 623-735, embruspar@ya.ru. M-Th 08:00-12:45, 16:00-19:00; F 08:00-13:00.
- 🌍 South Korea (Embajada de Corea), Avenida República Argentina 678 esq. Pacheco, ☏ +595 21 605 401, +595 21 605 419, +595 21 605 606, fax: +595 21 601376, paraguay@mofa.go.kr. 08:30-17:00.
- 🌍 Spain (Embajada Española), Yegros 437, edificio San Rafael, 5th. floor, ☏ +595 21 490686, +595 21 490687, fax: +595 21 445394, emb.asuncion@maec.es. M-F 08:00-12:00.
- 🌍 Taiwan (Republic of China) (Embajada de la República de China), Avda. Mariscal López 1133 casi Vicepresidente Sánchez, ☏ +595 21 213361, fax: +595 21 212373, embroc01@rieder.net.py. 08:00-12:30 and 14:00-17:30. Not to be confused with the People's Republic of China as Paraguay is one of a handful of countries in the world to officially recognize the Republic of China (commonly known as Taiwan).
- 🌍 United Kingdom (Embajada Británica), Avenida Mariscal López esquina Cruz del Chaco, Edificio Citicenter, Piso 5, Barrio Villa Morra, ☏ +595 21 614-588, BE-Asuncion.Enquiries@fco.gov.uk. M-Th 09:00-17:30, 16:00-19:00; F 09:00-13:00.
- 🌍 Uruguay, Avenida Boggiani 5832 entre Alas Paraguayas y R.I.6 Boquerón, Edificio María Luisa, ☏ +595 21 664244, +595 21 664245, +595 21 664246, fax: +595 21 601335, uruasun@embajadauruguay.com.py.
- 🌍 United States (Embajada Americana), Avenida Mariscal Lopez 1776 esq. Avenida Kubitschek, ☏ +595 21 213-715 248-3000, fax: +595 21 213728, paraguayusembassy@state.gov. M-Th 07:30-17:30; F 07:30-11:30.
Go next
- A visit to an Estancia makes a good day off or so from Asunción (some are within easy reach of public transport). Horseriding, fishing, swimming, guided nature walks are among the activities offered. Those who participate in APATUR (get the booklet from the tourist information) have generally a high standard. Some can only be visited during the day others have accommodation (expect about 80 US$ per night including all food and activities). Bookings can be made through TACP (021-210 550) or by contacting the Estancias directly. Travel agencies also offer trips to Estancias and typically include private transport back and forth.
- Circuito de Oro (Golden Circuit). A day-trip itinerary to a series of historical towns in the vicinity of Asunción, such as: San Lorenzo, Yaguarón, Caacupé, Pirayú, Sapucai.
- 🌍 Areguá. A lakeside town about 20 km from Asunción and makes a good day trip. There are buses going there costing the standard fare, e.g. GS.3,300, from the Bus Terminal passing by the Shopping del Sol. There are a series of art galleries and museums to visit.
- 🌍 San Bernardino. Paraguay's liveliest balneario, a summer destination for the young and beautiful. Originally settled by German immigrants, you can still see some houses remaining from that period. The Lago Ypacarai used to be known as the blue lake, is no longer blue, but filled with people doing water sports from December–February.
- 🌍 San Lorenzo. Museo Etnografico Guido Bogiani- indigenous wood carvings and feather pieces. A nice and cheap store selling indigenous handicrafts. Call before going. It's in nearby San Lorenzo: be sure to take a taxi driver who knows the place, as most people in San Lorenzo do not know of its existence.
- 🌍 Encarnación. On the way, stop at ruins and churches along the Jesuit trail. Santa Maria de Fe is a small town where you can see women embroidering in a sisterhood community.
- 🌍 Pilar. This riverside city is the country's biggest cotton manufacturing industry and with a very relaxed atmosphere.