Wilderness backpacking

Carrying everything you'll need to get along for several days in the wilderness isn't everyone's idea of a "vacation", but if you don't mind including some physical effort and additional inconvenience in your travel time, it's an ideal way to truly "get away from it all", and hopefully see some truly majestic scenery.

For some treks, you need not carry everything yourself but can hire porters. In a poor country where people desperately need work, this is the socially responsible thing to do.

Check with the local authorities if you'll be using a state/provincial/national park to see what fees there are for use of the park, and for the trails and campsites, if any. In some parts of the world, right to access may give you permission to hike on privately-owned undeveloped land, but elsewhere – especially the United States – be sure to get permission (unless you want to risk prosecution – or gunshot – for trespassing).

It is very important to be well prepared for your wilderness travels and hikes. You should pack the correct clothes, sleeping gear, food and drinks, safety equipment and first aid kit in case something happens in the wild. Do all you can to avoid going "freestyle" and heading into the wild without letting others know your plans, your destination, your expected return time, and a "hot" deadline at which your absence should be considered an emergency by a trusted friend. If parking at a trailhead, you can also place a folded note above the car's sun visor indicating your identity and expected return day & time. To avoid trouble if you should lose the car key during the hike, you can hide a spare key nearby just in case.

Physical fitness is decisive for a good experience. If you are not used to physical exercise, you should begin at least a few weeks before the trip. Avoid high-risk exercise which might inflict injuries, though.

You also need to be mentally prepared for wilderness travels. You are going to be challenged physically and mentally and if you aren't prepared for the rigors along the way, you may give up.

Check the local declination and know how to compensate. You will probably carry a magnetic compass, and if it shows 15° wrong without your knowing, you will easily get lost.

In most countries "get around" means "walk", though some long-distance wilderness expedition could be undertaken by cross country skiing, canoeing or horse riding.

In any case, footwear is one of the most important aspects of backpacking. Traditional hiking boots could kill a small animal just by being dropped on them (empty) from a few feet up, but modern boots can be much lighter, reducing the drag on every step you take. You don't necessarily need to spend hundreds of dollars on state of the art boots, but odds are that your favorite athletic shoes or street shoes will leave you very uncomfortable and hold up just as poorly. Stiff soles and plenty of ankle support are a good idea if you're going over any rocks. Some prefer light footwear that give more control, but this requires good ankles and good balance, and can be risky even then if tired. Don't rely on your abilities without sufficient experience.

Buying a new pair of boots just before your trip is a very bad idea. Break the boots in, first with short walks, then longer ones. Wear them around for a week, and you'll know where they rub, if you want to put soft insoles in them, etc. They should conform to the shape of your foot, so by the time you're ready to hike, your boots are too. The break-in period also helps your feet get used to the boots, building up thin callouses in the spots where they rub a little.

Like with sturdiness, there are two strategies for wetness: either have water resistant footwear – that will get moist by sweat even if claimed to be breathable, and at some point might get drenched by a badly timed misstep – or footwear that can be dried overnight (just keep walking to keep your feet warm, and have adequate socks).

In winter your footwear is even more critical. Your boots need to be warm enough, and any wet footwear – be it by wet snow, a creek hidden under snow or just sweat – can cause hypothermia and frostbite in cold temperatures, and will at least be very uncomfortable. If skiing, your choice of footwear is limited to what fits your bindings. Greasing is the traditional way to make boots water resistant, and wool stays warm even when quite moist. If your boots get drenched, get rid of most of the water, put on dry warm socks and a plastic bag, and then the boots (you have suitable plastic bags, don't you?). Leather boots should be dried at moderate temperature, don't put them close to a fire. If you have a warm shelter, try to get rid of as much snow as possible before it melts on the boots.

You may want to look into socks that are specifically for hiking. These socks will be of a sturdier fabric that will provide more resistance to the wear and tear you're putting them through. Poor quality socks can result in toes rubbing against the inside of the shoes, or that your socks creep down towards your toes.

If the terrain is especially challenging, or if your knees aren't what they used to be, you might benefit from using a hiking stick or a pair of trekking poles (like cross-country ski poles, but without the baskets – and the skis). They aren't just for the feeble; they can improve your balance and increase your pace by adding some power from your arms to your propulsion. A hiking stick is also often needed when fording. A sturdy chest-high branch (not pulled from a standing tree) will do, or you can buy a telescoping staff or set of poles. Some of them can double as a camera monopod. And while this usage isn't recommended, you'd probably rather face an angry cougar with a pole in your hand than without one.

The type and quantity of clothing to wear depends heavily on the location and season. The key strategy in all but the hottest climates is to layer your clothing. If the temperature is going to vary between night and day (and it probably will, even – especially – in hot deserts), carrying a set of clothing for the warm times and another set for the cool times will take up extra space and add extra weight. Instead bring clothes cool enough for daytime hiking, and bring extra layers to put on over them when it cools off after dark. "Convertible" slacks are handy in warmer weather, allowing you to zip off the legs and turn them into shorts when the day gets warm, or back into long pants for wading through prickly plants.

Packing at least one complete change of clothes ensures that if any item you're wearing gets soaked (by rain, a misstep crossing a stream, sweat, whatever) you'll have another to wear instead. This is especially important for socks, which are both the most likely item of clothing to get wet and the most important to keep dry. Spare boots aren't practical, but a pair of cheap flip-flops or loose-fitting light-weight shoes will give your feet a chance to breathe when you're not on the trail, and give you something to wear after you accidentally dunk your foot in a pond while collecting water. This strategy also works for some other heavy items of clothing. You may not need a complete change for everyone in the company, coordinate items important enough but unlikely to need a change.

Although cotton is normally comfy, park rangers call it "death cloth". It soaks up water many times its weight and hence its drying time is very slow, making it a less-than-ideal choice for undershirts and underwear you'll be wearing next to your sweaty skin; synthetic fabrics such as capilene will "wick" moisture away from your skin, and can better keep you both cool and dry. Many discount stores will also sell suitable shirts in their sports department if you don't want to drop the money on the specialty brands. Cotton also doesn't keep you warm when it gets wet; wool is a better material for your socks and outerwear. Cotton t-shirts as a middle layer or for sleeping in are fine.

If you're expecting rain, your best solution will naturally be waterproof overcoat, boots and trousers or gaiters. However, you can often cope with rain even if you don't have those. You should dress in 2–3 layers (even more if it's really cold) which would prevent most of the rain from getting in. Since it's likely that some water will penetrate through the outer layers, you should take them off (despite the cold) whenever there's a break in the rain or if you find good cover, to allow the water to dissipate from the inner layers. On these occasions it's best to also hang the outer layers to dry; if you're on the walk, spread them across the back of your backpack. Also, if you don't have waterproof shoes and trousers, you may find it best to wear three-quarter pants that don't get all the way to your ankles. If the pants are too long, they'd get soaked with water and mud that will hinder your walk and will even wet your socks inside your shoes. Additionally, you should take advantage of every opportunity to dry your cloths, such as at campfires. Just be careful not to put your shoes too close to any source of heat, as rubber melts at surprisingly low temperatures, even if it doesn't seem to be all that close to the fire, and leather likewise doesn't like high temperatures.

Do with this information what you wish: Humans in many cultures across countless centuries have lived without freshly laundered underwear every morning. Also, keep in mind that the kind of underwear you normally wear may not be ideal for backpacking; women will probably prefer a "sport" bra that provides more support and no hooks in the back, and men may find that briefs provide less opportunity for skin-to-skin chafing and bunched up fabric than boxers.

There are two basic kinds of backpacks used in wilderness travel: internal frame and external frame.

The external frame is the more traditional variety, consisting of a metal frame that's strapped to your hips and shoulders, and which your sleeping bag, tent, and the fabric pack itself are strapped to. They're better for keeping your gear organized and accessible, and a bit cooler to wear, because they leave small gaps for air to move between you and the pack. They're the best option for the heaviest loads.

Internal frame packs have become very popular in the last couple decades. They use a more flexible frame built into the fabric of the pack itself, which allows you to carry the weight closer to your body, improving your balance. One trade-off is the lack of back ventilation, another that fastening any additional load (such as packing of your fellow who hurt his leg) comfortably is nearly impossible.

With either kind of pack, be sure to adjust the straps to put as much weight as possible on your hips, rather than your shoulders. The shoulder straps should mostly be keeping the pack from falling backward, not actually supporting its weight. This will save lots of wear and tear on your back and shoulders, making for a much less painful trip.

Some people prefer to bring along at least one of anything they might need, and others opt to travel more lightly, giving up convenience and comfort for mobility. But if your pack weighs more than a quarter of your body weight, it is probably too heavy.

Often you will have to climb up a mountain to see a glacier or a lake, just to return later—in that case consider leaving your (heavy) luggage and enjoy the trail without the burden. Depending on where you are you might either want to hide your luggage where it cannot be found by thieves or in a place where it is easily seen, preferably by a landmark on the trail, so that you cannot miss it. Finding the exact same place again is sometimes surprisingly difficult. Having GPS does help, if you save the coordinates and the device works as it should.

See also: Outdoor cooking, Camping food

You'll want "light" meals, not in the sense of fat or calorie content, but in terms of how much the food weighs in your pack. In fact, you may want to lay off a lot of your "healthy diet" habits for the duration of your trip, because you'll want those extra calories, and fats are a good compact source of all-day energy. Wilderness camping is the very kind of lifestyle that led homo sapiens to develop a fondness for that kind of food. Depending on the length of your trip, food could make up a substantial fraction of your pack weight (figure at least a pound or half a kilogram per day). Since water makes up a large percentage of the weight of most foods we eat, and presumably can be found along the way, the obvious solution is to pack foods you can "just add water" to.

• Breakfast – Oatmeal is a good option: inexpensive, lightweight to carry, and easy to prepare. Measure portions ahead of time into zip-lock bags for convenience. Add a spoonful or two of brown sugar to make it more tasty. Berries found on the trail or brought as dried (possibly as a commercial powder) add even more taste. Peanut butter can likewise be bought as a lightweight powder.
• Lunch – You might welcome lunch as an excuse to stop to eat during the day, but preparing food on the trail can be a nuisance, so on-the-go foods like trail mix, granola or energy bars, or peanut butter are handy. For short trips, or for the first day or two of longer trips, you can bring semi-perishable foods such as fresh fruit or bagels. If you want a warm meal, you can heat water in the morning, carry it in a thermos bottle and add it to the dried components at lunch.
• Dinner – To restore your energy at the end of the day, freeze-dried foods are your most practical option. All sorts of pre-prepared dishes are available, mostly combinations of noodles, rice, chunks of veggies and meat, and sauce. Many can be prepared in the packaging they come in, making clean-up easier: just add boiling water, mix, and wait a few minutes. Especially with the sauce of hunger added, they can be quite tasty.

Consider bringing a camping stove. It's not as folksy as preparing food on a campfire, but it's more considerate of the environment, safer and more efficient. For most hikes a gas-powered camp stove is a good choice, but on long hikes, where one gas canister would not suffice, "multifuel" stoves may be more weight efficient, and finding fuel near your destination may be easier. There are also stoves using e.g. ethanol. See outdoor cooking for some more things to take into account.

Usually you don't want to scavenge firewood from the wilderness you're there to admire, but in a forested backcountry area that is not heavily visited, there is plenty of wood, and you may satisfy your needs without significantly affecting the environment. If it is allowed to make backcountry fires in your area, this may be an option. Try to limit the wood you gather to small branches taken from the ground, not anything broken from trees (living or dead) – and keep your fire small. You will want to be able to make a fire in emergencies, so research what tinder and firewood is available locally, and pack some tinder.

Some campsites have fire pits or grills available for cooking. If you use these, make sure your taking firewood won't degrade the experience for others; small branches taken from the ground is usually the best option. If you cannot find enough of these, or you wouldn't leave enough for those coming after you, don't make that fire. Some sites may even provide firewood, ready-made or for you to chop, or some ready-made to be replaced by that chopped by you.

A lot of food can be eaten without cooking also (like oatmeal and freezedrieds), if need be, or to minimise the need for firewood and carried fuel.

Keep pots and pans to a minimum, both for weight and clean-up reasons. If camping with someone you're in the habit of kissing, sharing a pot of food instead of dishing it out onto plates isn't a hygiene issue (but may become a relationship issue if you don't share equitably). In fact, if you mix and eat your freeze-dried meals in the packages they came in, and your oatmeal in the baggies you packed it in, you can get away with just a single pan for heating water, which won't even have to be washed. Stick to stewy and spoon-able food, and you may not even need to bring a fork or dinner knife.

By all means, reduce the risk of starting a wildfire.

Be prepared to drink more fluids than you're used to.

You might be able to take all the water you'll need for short trips of a couple days, but not for anything longer. Some areas will have clean water available on the hiking trail. In more remote areas, you'll have to collect water from lakes and streams. Check with the local authorities to find out which water supplies they recommend, and what precautions to use with them. Depending on which micro-organisms are common in the area's water supply, they may recommend using water purification tablets (usually iodine-based), micropore water filters (various brands are available), or boiling the water for several minutes. If boiling, remember that at higher elevations, water boils at less than 100°C, so you will need to boil longer. Filtration or purification tablets are less hassle for water you'll want cool enough for refreshing drinks as you hike. Filtered water tastes best. Purification tablets impart a taste and should only be used for a few weeks at a time, due to their iodine content.

Sweat depletes your body of sodium as well as water. This is especially true in the hotter climates and the sodium loss can be just as serious as dehydration, but cannot be as easily noticed (some symptoms are having a loss of appetite and headaches). Drinking water does not restore sodium into your system; in fact it lowers sodium levels in your blood even further. In some countries, sports drinks with dissolved salts including sodium (on the label, dissolved salts are called electrolytes) are available. Powdered sports drink mix is a convenient option. Another way to replenish your body's sodium level is to have a soup that is a little bit saltier than you are used to at the end of each day.

Lightweight synthetic insulating materials have been developed for sleeping bags in the last few decades, but old-fashioned down remains a good option. Down still offers the most warmth for the least weight and it packs up more tightly than synthetic fill. However it loses its warmth-keeping ability when it gets wet and takes longer to dry (modern down products are water resistant to some degree). Down-filled bags last longer but are also more expensive. Mummy-style bags will keep you warmer than rectangular ones (less space for your body to heat up) and take up less room in a tent, but don't plan on moving around much if your sleep in one.

Sleeping bags are typically rated for the coldest temperature in which they'll keep you warm enough. If there are separate extreme and comfort ratings, the former is a guess about what an adult healthy man would survive, not necessarily unharmed. There are standards for these ratings, but the scale itself is something of a guess, since they don't know what your metabolism is like, how sensitive to cold you are, or for that matter what you'll be wearing to sleep in. Select your bag based on the coldest temperature you can anticipate experiencing (remember that night temperatures are what count). If you can see yourself ever hiking in high altitudes, in high latitudes, or in spring or autumn, get a 3-season bag with a lower temperature rating than those for summer. And if there's ever a chance you'll see snow when you camp, get something in the 0°F (−20°C) range for "extreme". Additionally inserting a simple liner – made of a single layer of silk (preferable) or other lightweight fabric – can really raise the temperature in your sleeping bag. Two lesser sleeping bags one inside the other (only one used in warm nights), is a heavier budget option, but those aren't rated, so try them out before trusting them.

The fluff in a sleeping bag is only to keep the air inside warm, not for softness. Cold ground can suck the heat out through the flattened underside of a bag as quickly as exposure to cold air would. For these reasons, a thin insulating foam pad (inflatable pads compress smaller, but are susceptible to leaks) is more or less necessary. They won't come close to the softness of a mattress, however. If you will be using it in winter, a thin one will not suffice: make it two, or invest some money – or use a thick layer of twigs, where available. Instead of a pillow, try wrapping the clothes you aren't wearing in a towel, or your sleeping bag's stuff sack, and rest your head on that. Or buy a travel pillow, which collapses into a tiny pouch.