Balibo
Balibó is a town in East Timor about 10 km (6.2 mi) from the Indonesian border. The town is home to a 400-year-old fort, which was the scene of several battles during the Indonesian invasion in 1975. The Balibo Five were also filming from the fort when Indonesian forces landed in Balibo on the day they died. The fort was converted into a hotel in 2016.
Understand
It was estimated by Human Rights Watch that 70 percent of the town was destroyed during the militia violence that preceded the vote on East Timorese independence
On 16 October 1975, five Australian-based journalists were killed here during an incursion by Indonesian Special Forces in the run-up to the main invasion in December that year.
Get in
The road from Dili is good all the way to Batugade on the coast. From Batugade, a paved but bumpy road leads up to Balibó and further on to Maliana.
Public buses from Dili to Maliana stop (or can be flagged down) in Balibó. The public buses leave Dili very early in the morning (03:00–04:00) from Tasi Tolu bus station and take about 3 hours to Balibó. Alternatively, you can catch a bus from Dili to Batugade (Paradise Travel runs several buses from Fatuhada, Dili, at 8am that stop in Batugade before continuing into Indonesia, US$13), and then continue by motorbike taxi ("ojek") from Batugade to Balibó for ~US$6-7 per person.
The buses returning from Maliana to Dili pass Balibó between around 08:00–10:00.
Get around
Balibó is quite small and walkable.
See
- 🌍 Balibo Flag House (In the centre of town just next to the Indonesian Independence Monument). The house in which the five journalists were staying when they were killed by the Indonesian military. The Australian flag they had painted on the wall to avoid being targeted can still be seen. Inside is a small exhibition on the journalists and the incident. Free.
- 🌍 Balibo Fort Veteran's Museum (At the entrance to Balibo Fort Hotel; enter from within the compound). An exhibition on the Timorese struggle for independence, the Indonesian invasion, and the international involvement. Free.
- 🌍 Gruta Morutau (from Balibó centre, walk towards the coast, turn right after the church, about 500 m further turn right onto the path). A small Lourdes Grotto, outdoor church, and cross, with great views over Balibó and all the way into Indonesia. Free.
Do
- Balibo Trails Tours (next to the flag house, ☏ +670 7715 7737) organise guided walks to Gruta Morutau, Duanele Cave, Leohitu Waterfall, and other sights in the area.
Buy
The market in central Balibó sells groceries and basic necessities.
Eat
Food options are very limited. Most foreigners will eat at the Balibó Fort Hotel's restaurant, but there is also a small local warung near the market.
- 🌍 Restaurant at Balibó Fort Hotel. Relatively fancy restaurant with quiet outdoor seating, views all the way to the sea, serving Pizza, and a number of Asian and international dishes. US$10-25.
Sleep
- 🌍 Leo Atsabe Home Stay / Balibo Vila (300-400 m along the main road from the market towards the coast). Guesthouse
- 🌍 Balibó Fort Hotel (in the centre of Balibó; road leading up from the Independence Monument), ☏ +670 7777 4845, reservations@bslforthotel.com. Luxurious by Timorese standards, this hotel occupies the old Portuguese fort, where guests can enjoy the modern rooms, pricey restaurant, and swimming pool, all while being isolated from the poverty of the general population by the fort's walls. Weekdays US$85, weekends US$100, incl. breakfast.