Bangkok/Phahonyothin

🌍 Bang Sue Train Station (สถานีกลางบางซื่อ Sathani Klang Bang Sue; pronounced "bahng soo") is Bangkok's shiny new central station and the terminus of almost all long-distance train services in the country, although a few still trundle onward to the much more centrally located old central station at Hualamphong. It can be reached with the MRT Blue Line.

Bang Sue is also the current terminus/starting point of SRT's commuter lines north towards Rangsit and west to Taling Chan, although the intention is for these to eventually continue south towards the city core.

The Skytrain is an excellent way to get in and around Phahonyothin. The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs over Phahonyothin Road with the most important areas of the district covered. The line comes directly from Siam Square and Sukhumvit. If you're coming from Silom, you must transfer from the Silom Line onto the Sukhumvit Line at Siam BTS station.

The line passes Sanam Pao, Ari and Saphan Khwai, and stops at Mo Chit, which is nearby the Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal. At Mo Chit, the Skytrain intersects with MRT metro system Chatuchak Park, so you can easily continue your way from there to Ratchadaphisek. After Mo Chit, the line goes further north along Phahonyothin Road to Wat Phra Sri Mahathat. In the near future, the line will be extended to Khu Khot station, outside the Bangkok city limits.

The metro is the most convenient way of getting to the Chatuchak Weekend Market or Bang Sue Grand Station. MRT station Kamphaeng Phet drops you right in front of the main entrance of Chatuchak, arguably the most interesting part of the market. Chatuchak Park MRT station also gets you there, but you still have to walk to the eastern entrance.

Bus travel in Phahonyothin is very troublesome. Getting from north to south can take you two hours or more, depending on traffic. The most important line is ordinary and air-conditioned Bus 59, which runs 24 hours a day. It starts at Sanam Luang in Rattanakosin and passes by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road) and Panfa Leelard pier, the western terminus of the Saen Saep Express Boat. It then continues through Lan Luang Road, Phetchaburi Road, and heads north along Phaya Thai Road, passing Victory Monument. From there, it goes all the way north along Phahonyothin Road passing the Chatuchak Weekend Market, Don Mueang Airport, and finally the Thammasat University campus in Rangsit.

Going by metered taxi is the most comfortable (and expensive) way to get in and around the district. It can be used for both short and long distances. Always insist on the meter. If the driver refuses, get out and get another taxi, as there is always another one waiting for you. A ride from Sukhumvit or Silom to Chatuchak Weekend Market shouldn't cost you more than 100 baht. If you're heading up north to Don Mueang Airport, expect a price in the 200-300 baht range, depending on traffic.

• Elephant Building, 369/38 Phahonyothin Soi 26 (BTS Phahonyothin 24), ☏ +66 2 937-3300. The Elephant Building is one of the quirkiest buildings of the world, and has even won awards for being one of the ugliest. This 32-floor high-rise is composed of three towers that are connected to each other on the upper floors. The shape clearly resembles a grey elephant, Thailand's national animal. It even has eyes, ears and tusks, so nothing is left to the imagination. The building is used for residential and commercial purposes, with a bank, a post office, an EFL school and various shops on the first couple of floors. (updated Jul 2020)

• Bangkok Butterfly Garden and Insectarium (อุทยานผีเสื้อและแมลงกรุงเทพฯ), Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd (MRT Chatuchak Park or BTS Mo Chit), ☏ +66 2 272-4359(-60). Tu-Su, hols 08:30-16:30. This insect garden is split in four main sections. The first section is an area with touch-screen computers that give an introduction to the garden. The second is a mini-theatre where a presentation is given on insects and the ecological system they are a part of. The third section is an exhibition room that shows the breeding of insects and butterfly embryos. And finally, the last section is a large cage that displays more than 500 butterflies of 20 different kinds. The garden simulates the insects' natural habitat with rocks, shady ferns, wild flowers and a waterfall. Free. 
• 🌍 Children's Discovery Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็ก), 810 Kamphaeng Phet 4 Rd (across the road from Chatuchak Weekend Market), ☏ +66 2 615-7333(-102). Tu-F 09:00-18:00, Sa-Su 10:00-19:00. Discovery and interactive museums are the new hype in Bangkok, and this Children's Museum is no exception. The construction was completed in 2001 and completed in time to celebrate the 60th birthday anniversary of HM Queen Sirikit. It is a large complex with eight galleries with 123 exhibits and activities, spread over three buildings and one outdoor space. The goal is to learn children in a fun way about human life, science, culture, society, nature and the environment, and there is an exhibition in honor of HM Queen Sirikit. While mostly catering to Thai families, foreigners can bring their children as well. 50-70 baht. 
• 🌍 Museum of Contemporary Art (พิพิฒภัณฑ์ศิลปะไทยร่วมสมัย), 499/50 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd (Taxi from BTS Mo Chit), ☏ +66 2 953-1005(-7). Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Five floors house a collection of hundreds of pieces of painting and sculpture illustrating the development of Thai art since Western art concepts were introduced. There are also special collections on European Victorian era painters as well as Chinese and Japanese artwork. 180 baht. 
• 🌍 Philatelic Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์และห้องสมุดตราไปรษณียากร), 2F, Metropolitan Postal Bureau, 2 Phahonyothin Rd (BTS Saphan Khwai, behind Samsen Nai Post Office), ☏ +66 2 271-2439. W–Su 08:30-16:30. This museum displays the history of the Thai postal service and the development of Thai stamps throughout history. The first Thai stamps were issued during the reign of King Rama V in the late nineteenth-century. Also on display are stamps from other countries that are a member of the Universal Postal Union. There is a library with books about stamps, and you can buy stamps at the ground floor of the building. Next to the museum is a room that looks and acts like a post office of the past. In front of the building you'll find Thai and foreign postal boxes from various periods. Free. 
• 🌍 Royal Thai Air Force Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์กองทัพอากาศ), 171 Phahonyothin Rd (Taxi from BTS Wat Phra Sri Mahathat), ☏ +66 2 534-1853. Daily 09:00-16:00. An oddball collection of planes and helicopters ranging from WW1 era biplanes to a JAS Gripen jet fighter with some being the last of their kind. You can get inside some exhibits. English signage has improved over the years and now narrates also RTAF history. There is a gift shop and a canteen serving very cheap Thai food. Free. (updated Jul 2020)
• The State Railway Hall of Fame (หอเกียรติภูมิรถไฟ), Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd (MRT Chatuchak Park or BTS Mo Chit; it is on the W side of Chatuchak Park), ☏ +66 8 1615-5776. Tu-F, 06:00-12:00; Sa-Su, 06:00-14:00. This is a privately-run railway museum with steam engines, train models and miniature trains on display that show the history of Thai railways since the late nineteenth-century. The museum has been established by Sanpasiri Viryasiri in 1990, and is now managed by his son, Chulsiri Viryasiri. He runs it with full dedication and on purpose the whole project is solely paid for with donations. The future of the museum hangs in the balance, as the State Railway of Thailand is trying to reclaim the land in order to turn it into a public dog park. 

• Chatuchak Park (สวนจตุจักร), Phahonyothin Rd (MRT Chatuchak Park or BTS Mo Chit), ☏ +66 2 272-4575. 05:00-08:00 daily. Chatuchak Park is one of the older public parks in Bangkok, located on land that was donated by the State Railway of Thailand in 1975. The construction of the park took five years and was completed in 1980. The park basically is a long strip of green land right beside Phahonyothin Road. It is surrounded by an artificial lake that runs along the park with many bridges crossing it. There are nine pieces of ASEAN sculptures that enhance the character of the park. Free. 
• Queen Sirikit Park (สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์), Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd (MRT Kamphaeng Phet or BTS Mo Chit). 05:00-20:00 daily. This park was built to commemorate the 60th birthday anniversary of HM Queen Sirikit in 1992. A big pool in the park contains three fountains and a fine collection of both Thai and foreign lotuses. Free. 
• Wachirabenchatat Park (สวนวชิรเบญจทัศ), Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd (north of Queen Sirikit Park and Chatuchak Park). 05:00-21:00 daily. This large park used to be the golf course of the State Railway of Thailand. Bicycle rental, paid parking and eating possibilities are outside the northern entrance of the park. It has a large kids playgrounds in the middle, as well as a kids pool and sports facilities. Free. 

Northern Bangkok's biggest draw is the Chatuchak Weekend Market (จตุจักร, also "Jatujak" or even "JJ", Sa-Su 09:00-18:00, +66 2 272-4441), an incredibly vast, 35-acre indoor and outdoor market that has more than 8,000 vendors selling anything and everything under the sun. To put that number in perspective, if you browsed every stall one minute each, non-stop for eight hours on every Saturday and Sunday, it would take you around two months to visit them all! A good rule of thumb is to buy immediately if you spot something interesting, as you will never find that same stall again.

After World War II, the market was established around Sanam Luang in Rattanakosin, but when it got out of hand, it was moved to the north of Bangkok in 1978. Now it has 200,000 visitors a day who together spend around 30 million baht! Chatuchak has a fairly good mix of local residents and foreign tourists. It started out as a market for cheap bargains, but over the years has also become a haven for specialist shops that charge a little more.

Getting there is easy, just go to Mo Chit station by Skytrain or get off at Kamphaeng Phet station by metro (Chatuchak Park MRT station is also an option, but Kamphaeng Phet station immediately drops you off at the southwestern most interesting part of the market). The market is only opened on Saturdays and Sundays, and opens at 09:00, so get there early to beat the crowds and the heat. The market officially closes at 18:00, but slowly becomes less interesting after 16:00. Keep an eye on your belongings here as pickpockets work in the crowds, and avoid Chatuchak on rainy days as the roofs and drains here aren't quite up to a tropical downpour.

You can imagine that orientation here is a world of it its own; the only recognisable landmark is the Clock Tower in the middle of the complex, so you might want to meet there in case you get lost. In theory, the market is divided into 26 numbered sections depending on types of goods sold, but in practice you'll quickly get lost in its maze of 69 sois and dozens of other roads. For an extra detailed map of Chatuchak you can buy Nancy Chandler's Map of Bangkok at Teak House Art in section 2 to help you better navigate around the area.

Just describing what's on sale could fill a whole page. Giving an extensive description of all sections is nearly impossible, but a rough grouping into 10 categories can be made. These groupings should only be used as a rough guideline, as the goods sold overlap between sections and some sections are hard to even characterise at all; especially section 2 is a mixed bag with products as diverse as home decoration, used clothing, furniture, handicrafts and plants. The following grouping can be made:

• Antiques (section 26)
• Arts (section 7)
• Books (section 1 and 27)
• Ceramics (section 17 and 19)
• Clothing (section 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21 and 23)
• Handicrafts (section 8, 22, 24 and 25)
• Home decoration (section 2)
• Pets (section 9, 11, 13 and 15)
• Plants (section 3 and 4)
• Used clothing (sections 5 and 6)

The pets section has a cute appearance with lots of puppies and bunnies on sale, but is particularly controversial, as many of these shops are a front for the trade of protected (and even endangered) animals under the counter. Most of these animals are smuggled in from other countries in the region, and Chatuchak serves as a hub for private animal collectors and others interested in exotic hornbills, snakes, turtles or anything else you could think of. These practices are not as visible as they used to be, following a number of crackdowns. A single crackdown in 2003 found 5,000 illegal exotic animals on sale at the market, though often only the deal is negotiated here with the handover done elsewhere. If you don't want to see crocodiles on sale in small cages or see live cockfights take place, you might want to skip the pets section.

Chatuchak is especially a good place for buying all kinds of traditional Thai handicrafts, silk and antiques. A lot of these stores are congregated in the southwestern part with prices are much lower than in Silom. Haggling is expected for every small item you buy, but generally you won't get more than 150 baht off the price. Antiques shopping is fun, but pretty much all on sale are fakes, as genuine antiques require a permit to be taken out of the country.

The area around section 27 is good for daily necessities. There are toilets, a smoking area, several ATMs and you can change money there. Food stalls are abound, they are lined up along the western, southern and eastern side of the main road. Expect the usual Thai dishes such as pad thai and Isaan food.

Meanwhile, other entrepreneurs have tried to cash in on the hype and opened their own markets surrounding the Chatuchak Weekend Market: Other markets in the area include:

• Bon Marché Market Park. A center for Thai sweets]], fresh and dried food, fruits and vegetables, including ready-to-eat meals. (updated Jun 2020)

• Chatuchak Plaza. The two big downsides of the Chatuchak Weekend Market is that the heat is unbearable at times and that it's only opened in weekends. Chatuchak Plaza seeks to combat these complaints: it gives a similar experience as the Chatuchak Weekend Market, but is open every day of the week and is fully air-conditioned. It does a fairly good job, but when walking here you start to miss the chaos of the real thing. 

• JJ Day & Night, Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd (opposite Kamphaeng Phet 2 Road from Chatuchak Weekend Market), ☏ +66 2 618-4442. M-Th 10:00-20:00, F-Su 10:00-21:00. A fairly large shopping mall, JJ Day and Night really lacks character. The corridors are fairly small and there's a lot of budget clothing shopping to be done. A large share of the action happens outside. 

• JJ Mall, 588 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd (north of Chatuchak Weekend Market, past the Chatuchak Plaza), ☏ +66 2 618-3333. 10:00-21:00 daily. This large air-conditioned shopping mall is well-developed and looks professional. Each floor has different goods on sale: the ground floor has handicrafts, paintings and home decorations; the first floor has clothing, accessories and jewellery; and the second floor has health products and a large food court. 

• Or Tor Kor Market (ตลาด อ.ต.ก., also known as Aw Taw Kaw Market or Marketing Organisation for Farmers (MOF) Market), Kamphaeng Phet Rd (MRT Kamphaeng Phet exit 3). 06:00-20:00 daily. Right next to Chatuchak, far fewer tourists make it to the best place in Bangkok to buy high-quality plants and food produce straight off the farm. Prices are a bit higher than at small neighbourhood markets, because Or Tor Kor is cleaner and its products are better quality. There's also a food market that is definitely worth a visit. 

• Prachaniwet 1 Market (On Thetsaban Songkhro Road, not far from Bon Marché Market Park). A wet market, operated by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA). (updated Jun 2020)

• Ratchadaphisek night market (At the Ratchada-Lat Phrao intersection.). A large night market. (updated Jun 2020)

• Ratchayothin Market (Next to Major Cineplex Ratchayothin). A night market. (updated Jun 2020)

• 🌍 Central Plaza Ladprao, 1693 Phahonyothin Rd, Chatuchak (Ha Yaek Lat Phrao BTS station). Huge mall with a good food court on the basement level and a phenomenal selection of cosmetics on the first floor. (updated Mar 2020)

There are a variety of street food vendors at Phahonyothin Soi 7 (Soi Ari). Just off the BTS and around the corner on Soi Ari are a multitude of street stalls selling some of Bangkok's best street food, from Chinese-style wonton noodles, Isaan specialities such as som tam, larb, gai yaang, as well as pad thai, Thai deserts and stands that can whip up basically the entire repertoire of Thai cuisine, all for around 20-30 baht per dish.

• Delicious Beef Noodles, Soi Ratchakru (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเนื้อรสเด็ด ซอยราชครู), 1159 Phahonyothin Rd (BTS Ari, just N of Soi 5), ☏ +66 93 463 6646. Daily. Two neighbouring, simple and locally very popular eateries. They have dedicated lunch customers seven days a week. Mains just under 50 baht, they have very simple but delicious menus, but only in Thai. Pointing will do. 50 baht. 
• Pad Thai Aree (ผัดไทย อารีย์) (Soi between Phahonyothin Soi 6 and 8), ☏ +66 2 270-1654. Daily, 10:00-20:00. This small, unassuming shophouse is owned by a friend of the royal family (note the picture of the princess on the wall), and serves up some delectable pad Thai (and many variations) at slightly more than street stall prices. 45-95 baht. 
• Pathe, 1130/6-7 Phahonyothin Rd (MRT Phahon Yothin, corner of Phahonyothin Rd, Lat Phrao Rd, & Viphavadi Rangsit Rd), ☏ +66 2 938-4995. Daily, 10:00-01:00. Pathe is the Thai equivalent of a 1950s-era American-style diner. The atmosphere is great with a classic record player providing the music. There are pictures on the wall of music stars and performers of the 1950-70s. Serves up some tasty food as well. 50-120 baht. 
• 🌍 Thanee Khao Moo Daeng (ร้านข้าวหมูแดง-หมูกรอบธานี), 1161-3 Soi Phahonyothin 5 Alley Phahonyothin Rd (BTS Ari), ☏ +66 2 278-3987. Daily, 08:00-17:00. A no-frills eatery serving the classic Thai-Chinese dish Khao Moo Daeng, with some of the crispiest pork belly in Bangkok. A popular lunch spot for the local office workers, but does not see many tourists, so don't expect any English from the staff. That being said, their menu has pictures you can point to so staff know what you want. 50 baht. 

• Baan Puengchom (บ้านพึงชม), 38/1 Phahonyothin Soi 7 (Small soi opposite Ari Soi 2 and Ari Soi 3), ☏ +66 2 279-4204. Daily, 12:00-22:00. In a big garden with some rabbits, it is possible to eat inside (with air-conditioning) or outside. It is often full, so if you don't make a reservation, you'll probably be eating outdoors. The surroundings couldn't be better, the food is fine, and prices are decent. 150 baht. 
• Basilico (Formerly Arancini), Baan Yosawadi Bldg, 34 Phahonyothin Soi 7 (BTS Ari), ☏ +66 2 619-8188. Daily, 11:30-14:30, 18:00-23:00. The third branch of this Italian food franchise. It has especially enticing pizzas and a good selection of decently priced wines (glass and bottle) to help you get rid of that leftover Chang taste from the afternoon. Try the Rianata. 300 baht. 
• Lao Lao (เหลา เหลา), 1271/6-7 Phahonyothin Rd (Between Soi 7 and 9), ☏ +66 2 271-4260. Chinese-style seafood restaurant that is always bustling well into the wee hours of night. Not much on atmosphere or service, but the crowds can attest that the food is terrific and the price is right. English menus are available, but as it is a very local restaurant, it may be helpful to go with a Thai friend. 
• Pladib Restaurant (ร้านอาหารปลาดิบ), 1/1 Areesampan Soi 7, Rama VI Rd (At the corner of Ari Samphan Soi 7, a 20 min walk from BTS Ari or a short motorbike/tuk-tuk ride), ☏ +66 2 279 8185. Daily, 18:00-00:00. Surprisingly chic setting and menu, drawing in a constant crowd of Bangkok hipsters and "Indie" music fanatics, this restaurant cum bar features live bands on weekends. It is a happening bar with a creative menu focusing on fresh fish prepared in some creative fusion styles. A bit more of a splurge for this neighbourhood, with dishes running far into the triple digits. 300 baht. 
• Suan Kularb (สวนกุหลาบ), 162 Rama VI Soi 30 (10-15 minute walk from BTS Ari or a short motorbike/tuk-tuk ride), ☏ +66 2 617-0425. Daily, 11:00-23:00. An Ari neighbourhood institution, hugely popular with both neighbourhood locals and downtown dwellers in the know. Features a surprisingly vast menu of Thai and Chinese dishes, priced at approximately 80-150 baht per dish (though seafood is remarkably more expensive). The staff is not always efficient, and speaks little English, but the menu is translated and has pictures. 80-300 baht. 
• T-House, 33 Phahonyothin Soi 5 (BTS Ari, 50m down the soi on the left), ☏ +66 2 270-1309. M-F, 11:00-14:00, 17:00-22:00; Sa-Su, 11:00-22:00. This is a nice Vietnamese restaurant. It shares an inside courtyard with Dragon Palace, the Chinese mid-range restaurant next-door. There are parking facilities, it is clean and has a good service. Try the Saigon crab soup. 250 baht. 

• Bansabai Hostel, 8/137 Moo 3, Soi Sahakon 15, Lat Phrao Soi 71, ☏ +66 2 932-9200. This "hostel" is not really a hostel, more like a three-star hotel. It is unbelievably hard to find as it is deep in the sois of Lat Phrao, and about 16km from Victory Monument! So budget in some money for long taxi rides. The English skills of the staff are not that good, but no wonder, as this is far off in a quiet residential neighbourhood. At least they try all they can, and are very responsible and hospitable. You get a lot of service for your money: a huge room, that is very clean, a balcony, air-con, pool, fridge, cable TV, room service, and a cheap mini bar. 700-800 baht. 

• Matini Hostel Grand Station (มาที่นี่โฮสเทล), 6 31-32 แขวงพญาไท Phaya Thai. New building. Bed light, international power plug, 2 hooks, curtain (lower and upper beds), giant locker (easy 80L, need padlock), shower (soap, real hot water), water fountain, fridge, coffee machine, free luggage storage. Laundry wash 40, dry 30 (2F). Dorm 350-400. (updated Mar 2024)

• Amari Don Muang Airport, 333 Chert Wudthakas Rd, ☏ +66 2 566-1020. This luxury hotel is beside Don Mueang Airport and even connected to its terminal buildings by an enclosed overhead walkway. Since the opening of Suvarnabhumi Airport, the quality has gone down steadily though. While still a good hotel, breakfast, service, and rooms are less impressive than before. Three restaurants closed down and there's only one left now, and breakfast is not included by default. There's still a good pool though. 1,100-6,725 baht. 
• Rama Gardens, 9/9 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd, ☏ +66 2 561-0022. A large and pleasant hotel. Rooms are spacious, comfortable and clean. Also has an elegant lobby, nice front gardens, and a large breakfast. It is mostly useful if you're taking off from Don Mueang Airport (or maybe if you want to stay closer to Ko Kret). 1,600-4,400 baht. 

• 🌍 Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok (Formerly Sofitel Centara Grand), 1695 Phahonyothin Rd (MRT Phahon Yothin), ☏ +66 2 541-1234. Far from downtown, but at least close to a convention centre, shopping centre, and easily accessed from the expressway and metro. It is probably the best digs in this part of town. 3,500-8,000 baht.