Baracoa

It is believed that Baracoa is where Columbus first landed on American soil, making it truly the first city of the modern Americas. Baracoa was formally established as the first of Diego Velazquez' villas in 1511, and was Cuba's capital until 1515, when the capital was moved to Santiago in part due to Baracoa's remoteness. In the coming centuries, Baracoa, simultaneously close and remote from the rest of Cuba, thrived off piracy and developed a culture distinct from the rest of the island. French settlers fleeing the revolution in nearby Haiti found the climate ideal for growing cacao, and the city transitioned to an agricultural center. In the lead-up to the 1959 revolution, the citizens of Baracoa were particularly supportive and helpful (as was generally true of Eastern Cuba), and were rewarded by the completion of a road from Guantánamo and the end of more than 4 centuries of isolation. Today Baracoa is chiefly a major agricultural zone for Cuba, with all of Cuba's chocolate coming from the surrounding area, and is a major destination on the Cuban tourist trail.

Baracoa's culture has more visible indigenous roots than most of the rest of the Cuba, and many major archeological finds have been made here. The local hero is Hatuey, who famously resisted the Spanish, and local art has a distinctive indigenous inflection to it. The cuisine is also different from the rest of Cuba and the overall lifestyle is more relaxed.

Baracoa and the surrounding areas has a tropical rainforest microclimate, which allows chocolate to grow very well. Expect a fair bit of rain, although it's generally not unpleasant. Baracoa can be surprisingly cool, though most of the surrounding area is pretty hot.

A daily Viazul (prices & times see link) bus runs between Santiago and Baracoa via Guantanamo City, taking about 5 hr. The 🌍 bus terminal is located at the northern tip of Baracoa city. The bus ride is one of the more beautiful in Cuba, going from semi-arid desert out of Guantanamo to impressive mountains on La Farola to rain-forest lowlands approaching Baracoa.

Also Astro, the national bus line, serves Baracoa from the same bus terminal as Viazul, but as a tourist you are highly unlikely to be allowed on, and if you are (usually by being a student), you're not likely to get a seat. Furthermore, there are local provincial buses and passenger trucks from a separate terminal within the center of the city (ask a Cuban). The latter also connects to Moa with at least one (packed) bus a day (CUC1-2) in each direction, which can easily take up to 3 hr. Either way, you can try stopping both (Astro and provincial ones) at the exit of the city, depending on where you want to go.

Of course, this being Cuba, the usual array of chartered buses also serve Baracoa.

Both Cubana and Aerogaviota operate flights from Havana to Baracoa. See Cubajet to book these flights.

It's also possible to drive La Farola in a rental vehicle or a taxi, though this is not particularly recommended as, asides from the difficulty and expense of getting a rental car in Cuba, most of the road, especially the mountainous sections, is very remote and if a breakdown happens, you will be stuck for a while; there is no cell phone reception and the only way to communicate will be through buses. Baracoa is 150 km east of Guantanamo City.

Many taxi drivers will offer you to travel between Santiago de Cuba and Baracoa for the same price as Viazul, depending on the availability of sufficient passengers (at least 4), which they will try to find. This is a meaningful alternative to be considered, especially due to its flexibility (to take pictures) and directness, i.e. no stopping or waiting. On the other hand, you may be stuffed in a quite uncomfortable and unsafe "backseat" of a pickup along with 6 other people for 3.5 hr, so there's that.

Taxi and car will also be the only two options to travel between Punta de Maisi and Baracoa (see #Go next at the end).

Bici-taxis are available for rent for approximately CUC5/day. Alternatively, you can hire a car (with driver) for about CUC20.

Mopeds and scooters can be rented from a rental agency just off the main park (Parque Centro). It is located inside a cafeteria next to the cinema. Expect to pay approximately CUC25 for a full day.

• Baracoa Bike Rental, Calle Juracion #1 (Beside the Matachin Museum), ☏ +53 54070738, emailmatos.camilo@yahoo.es. Rents late model bicycles. (updated Dec 2016)

There is a lot of short distance travel in and out of town. For destinations less than 15 km along the main road, try waving at vehicles with people already on its back.

• Cucurucho Factory (Fábrica de Cucuruchu) (500 m beyond the Fábrica de Chocolate, 3.8 km north on the main road). Yes there's a factory that makes them! It's located on the outskirts of town (ask a bici-taxi driver to take you there) and is a good place to buy the conical coconut confection, at least when it's open. 
• 🌍 Finca Duaba (4.3 km north of Baracoa city on the main road, take the small road east for about 700 m (keep right)). A place to learn about the cacao plantation, production and history in Cuba. A few 100 m further there is a river where you can take a dip. 

• 🌍 Playa de Miel, Just south of Fuerte Matachín. A lovely black sand beach within easy walking distance of town. free. 
• 🌍 Playa Duaba, North of Baracoa off the road to Alejandro de Humboldt. A beach located north of Baracoa (not in walking distance), usually visited at the end of a tour to Alejandro de Humboldt Park (below) to relax after a day of hiking. free. 
• 🌍 Playa Maguana, North of Baracoa off the road to Alejandro de Humboldt. A nice secluded beach, usually visited at the end of a tour to Alejandro de Humboldt Park (below) to relax after a day of hiking. A small restaurant is there too. free. 
• 🌍 Playa Blanca (South east of Baracoa by bici-taxi). This is a white and quiet beach to relax and remain for a while. The road there is a long winding 12 km. 

• 🌍 Baseball stadium, On Playa de Miel. This being Cuba, of course there is a baseball stadium. Baracoa's stadium though, is actually on the beach but already in a bad state. 

• 🌍 El Yunque (4.3 km north of Baracoa city on the main road, take the small road east for about 5 km (keep left)). A 575 m high mountain whose name means the anvil in Spanish, about 30 min by bici-taxi from the centre of town. A return normal taxi is about CUC15. You must pay to enter the national park, but the views from the peak are fantastic and well worth the 1-2 hr hike. CUC12. 
• Cascada (Waterfall) (On the way to El Yunque). A nice waterfall to take a swim. CUC8. 
• 🌍 Alejandro de Humbold National Park (Parque Nacional Alejandro de Humboldt). Unmatched in the Caribbean for sheer biodiversity, this fascinating park can be the highlight of any visit to Baracoa. The park features the world's smallest frog, the endemic polymita snail, and a surprising amount of rural agriculture. Talk to Cubatur at Parque Independencia for a group tour; it's also possible to visit independently and hire a guard at the gate, but this is more expensive and not particularly recommended. The road to the park is not so much a road with potholes, but potholes with bits of road, and you'll feel the bus swerving in all directions to dodge them. Most tours also take in Playa Duaba, above. 
• 🌍 Yumuri. Venture just outside the city on a bici-taxi to see the mighty Yumuri river, which runs through several of the surrounding communities. Boat trips will take you up the valley of the river for a few hours round-trip. Also tours are available from Baracoa, which will additionally take you cocoa plantations and other local areas. 

• A Monte Iberia Dwarf Frog, the smallest frog in the Northern Hemisphere, in Alejandro de Humboldt park.
• One of several varieties of polymita snails, endemic to the Baracoa area, in Alejandro de Humboldt park.
• View from the top of El Yunque, including an endemic palm tree.
• An anole at El Yunque

Baracoa is known as the land of chocolate and coconut and most of the local cuisine is based around these two ingredients. Near the midpoint of La Farola, the Viazul bus makes a stop at a tiny tourist-oriented village, where you can buy red bananas, Baracoa chocolate, and cucurucho.

• Baracoa chocolate (You'll find people selling it everywhere, but the best place to look is around Parque Independencia, where you may be able to find someone selling them in packs of 25-30.). It is sold in tiny 6-piece bars at 5 per CUC. You will also find people selling balls of chocolate - these are unsweetened, which would normally make them totally unpalatable, but Baracoa chocolate is quite mild (though it's definitely not to everyone's taste). Be sure to buy plenty, as its cheaper here and absolutely amazing. (updated Sep 2015)
• 🌍 Plain Coconut (Along Playa de Miel beyond the stadium). Drink a fresh and delicious coconut and afterwards eat the jelly-like pulp inside. Make sure to demand it without added lemon, otherwise the coconut taste is spoiled. CUC0.50. (updated Sep 2015)

In addition, coconut manifests itself in two local specialties.

• Coconut milk sauce. The first oddly resembles Thai curries while remaining completely different (quite a change from the usual bland Cuban diet!) and is served with fish and seafood. The best way to try it is to specifically ask your casa owner to prepare it, or go to some of the paladares that specialize in local food. (updated Sep 2015)
• Cucurucho. The other speciality is a conical concoction of shredded coconut, sugar (and lots of it), orange peels, guava, and whatever else the maker felt like putting in–no two are alike! Cucuruchos are wrapped in palm leaves with a handy lid. They are quite sweet, sweeter perhaps than the typical North American palate usually allows for. CUC1 each. (updated Sep 2015)

• 🌍 Casa Alejandro y Susana, 1ro de abril Street, number 55 (In front of La Pesca), ☏ +53 53956044, toll-free: +53 21641091, casaalejandroysusana@gmail.com. Check-in: Flexible, check-out: 15:00. Has terrace, garden, roundabout, yard and garage. Both rooms have air conditioning, hot shower, a double bed and a personal, as well as large glass windows allowing good and natural ventilation and lighting. Laundry services are provided, in addition to typical meals, vegetarian recipes, breakfast and cocktails with negotiable prices. The owners are lawyers. In the house you will find security, privacy and comfort. CUC25. (updated Jul 2016)
• Yodanka, ☏ +53 53553587. Fantastic casa in a quiet side street, opposite end of the Malecon from the bus station. It does not have a name but it is the road after Juracion, on the right, as you are leaving town. The casa is about 200 meters away from the beach on the right hand side. Rooms are large with a double bed and ensuite bathroom. You also get a shaded patio, and a staircase to another patio in the sun. The owners speak Spanish only. CUC15. 
• Clara Silot y Victor, Libertad No. 28-A, ☏ +53 21-643662, ocha@gtm.sld.cu. An alright room, with a great elderly couple, which actually adopted us while we're been there. Because of them, Baracoa was even more wonderful! It's about 8 minutes walk from the center. 
• Casa Colonial Gustavo y Yalina (Flor Crombet), 125 Flor Crombet, ☏ +53 21-64-25-36. An elegant colonial house that dates to the 19th century, this casa features Baracoan drinking chocolate and local specialties for dinner. 
• Nelsy Borges Teran, 171 Antonio Maceo. If trying Baracoa's local dishes is your priority, this should be the casa you stay in, as it is considered to have very good food. 
• Villa Paradiso, Moncada 92B. One of the best casa particulares in eastern Cuba with great views over town, lovely rooms and very helpful, friendly owners who can manage excursions throughout the surrounding region. Also one of the very few casas in Baracoa with a website. (updated May 2020)

• 🌍 Hotel La Rusa, 161 Máximo Gomez. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: noon. A notable historica landmark, this bright yellow hotel is opposite the Malecon (sea wall) in the centre of town. Famous figures like Che Guevara and Fidel Castro have stayed in the hotel. The rooms are basic with air conditioning, television and hot water. If you want some history and great views - ask for room 302. It's the room Che stayed in during his visit to open the local chocolate factory and is marked by a commemorative plaque and cliche furnishings. Conditions have degraded since Hurricane Ike in 2008 and have not improved much since. CUC18-30. 

• 🌍 Hotel El Castillo, Hill west of Calixto Garcia, near Mariana Grajales. Converted from Castillo El Seboruco, this elegant hotel allows you to feel like a conquistador – and has an amazing view over the town (though you do not have to stay here to see it). CUC64.