Battambang

Despite being Cambodia's second largest city, Battambang is often overlooked in favor of the more popular Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Battambang is quieter, less commercial and cheaper, and provides an opportunity to see a slightly less Westernized Cambodian city. Remnants of French colonial architecture can be spotted around the city, and there are food and lodging options that will cater to most budgets and tastes.

• 🌍 Battambang Circus, Phare Ponleu Selpak (10 min journey by tuk-tuk from the centre of Battambang), ☏ +855 77554413, +855 93554413, reservations@phareps.org. Probably the most interesting thing happening in Battambang. You can check their website for the schedule or find the calendar printed on flyers around town. The shows are fun, energetic and exciting and include a range of circus disciplines. The ticket price helps support the NGO school which works with disadvantaged children and teenagers. US$16. (updated Jan 2024)
• 🌍 Phnom Sampeu. A hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few others caves adorned with Buddhist statues, and a monastery with two Buddhist stupas on the hilltop. The admission charge also includes Wat Banan. It takes about 1 hr to climb the circuit to the monastery on top, with a short-cut leading back down to the shops and restaurants which line the approach road. US$3. 
• Statues. Battambang is known for its statues, which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities. The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town and province derives from this legend. 
• 🌍 Wat Banan. The so-called mini-Angkor Wat, an impressive flight of stairs lead up to a dilapidated Angkor-style temple which is still in use as a Buddhist shrine. 
• Wat Baydamram. A temple where hundreds of fruit bats live in trees under the protection of the Buddhist monks. 
• 🌍 Wat Ek Phnom (about 10 km northwest of Battambang). Angkor-type temple ruin. The road runs along lovely small rivers flanked by trees and small villages making it a generally nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom, you suddenly encounter a giant Buddha statue in the wat, which is certainly picture-worthy. The grounds of the wat also have an Angkorian-era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings. 
• Wat Samraong Knong. Roughly translates as "wat in the forest". An extremely old pagoda on the east side of the Sangker River. The eerie old wat was used as a Khmer Rouge prison, and there were many executions on the premises. A new pagoda is now being built, and there is a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime, with graphic illustrations, just to the north. 
• 🌍 Battambang Provincial Museum, Corner of Rd. 1 and Street 125. Tu-Su 08:00-17:30; closed Monday. Established in 1963, the Battambang Provincial Museum houses a small but impressive collection of Khmer artifacts. The core of the collection is statutes and temple pieces dating from the advent of Hindu and Buddhist religion in Cambodia all the way through the Angkor period. There is also a notable collection of neolithic artifacts from the Laang Spean site. The museum has been renovated, and all artifacts have English-Khmer signage. US$1. (updated Feb 2020)

Head to The Real Place Hostel for competitive priced tours. They have full and half day tours of sights and activities in the region and their price depends on the number of people, but since everyone is heading here, it often ends up in the cheapest deal — still compare though!

• 🌍 Bamboo Train. The term "train" is here used loosely: a large bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small go-kart engine. A trip on the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged with a motorbike/tuk-tuk driver. It is regulated by Battambang's Tourist Police, with a standard rate of US$5 per person, minimum 2 people or US$10 for one person, with discounts for larger groups. Ask the driver to pause at scenic places. The old Bamboo Train service was terminated as the tracks were rehabilitated for the reopening of the line to Poipet and Phnom Penh. The current Bamboo Train runs on a new purpose-built track: it takes about 10 minutes to get to a stop where you can buy drinks and t-shirts; it then returns along the same route. US$5 per person shared, US$10 solo. (updated Jan 2019)
• Soksabike Tours, Street 1.5 (near Psar Nat), ☏ +855 12542019, info@soksabike.com. Soksabike is a social enterprise dedicated to sustainable tourism in Battambang. They offer half day and full day bike tours around the countryside where guests can learn about the everyday life and culture of Cambodia. The money for the tour is distributed to families in the community along the way and goes to pay the salaries of the guides, all local university students. They use high-quality mountain bikes, provide a helmet and even include a coffee at one of the best cafes in town. Hotel pickup included and group discounts are available. (updated Apr 2019)
• Green Orange Kayak, ☏ +855 77 204 121. Go on a beautiful Stung Sangker River voyage from the small village of Ksach Poy to Battambang, past riverside terraces and traditional bamboo houses. Get away from the dusty roads and learn first hand about traditional fishing and farming techniques. Half-day trip, 11 km. US$12. 
• Volunteer Teaching English (Battambang Orphanage Village Assistance) (10 min north of Battambang), ☏ +855 12 326577. Stay at a home stay in Samroang Khnong Village and volunteer to help teach English to children. Call Mr Sophorn and he will pick you up from town and make you very welcome indeed. No experience or special skills are required, just a willingness to help the delightful local children speak a bit more English. The small price includes accommodation and three delicious meals a day. US$12 per person per night. 
• Battambang Countryside trip (Hotel pickups in Battambang), ☏ +855 77 854 044. Offers tuk-tuk day trips to the countryside surrounding Battambang including seeing local crafts, temples and other major sites. Customised trips available. (updated Aug 2015)

There are two large markets in the center, its easy to spot them on a map.

• Heng Chhay Ly Supermarket, Borei Road off Street 1, ☏ +855 53-6555566. 07:00–21:30. (updated Mar 2017)
• Psar Nath & Psar Boeung Chhoeuk (Public markets). Fruit stalls. (updated Mar 2017)
• Lucky Supermarket, NE corner of intersection @Hwy 5, Street 524/106, La He St. 08:00-22:00. (updated Mar 2019)

Battambang's culinary traditions and reputation for producing high quality fruit, vegetables and rice led to it being designated in October 2023 as a UNESCO Creative City in the gastronomy category.

There are plenty of places to eat, but after 19:00 some places close and lots of streets become dark, so eating early (around 18:00) is recommended.

You can get some great French-style bread (by French standards) for 1,000 riel a medium-size baguette up north, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main inter-provincial road. The bread that street sellers have elsewhere in town is of a much lower standard for the same price, similar to that found in Phnom Penh, baguette-shapes, but sprinkled with sugar. Some people do not notice any difference between the bread sold in the north and elsewhere in Battambang. It is generally of decent quality all across the city.

• Pomme Hostel, Bar & Restaurant, St 2.5, #63, ☏ +855 96 212 6544. 07:00-22:00. Khmer cuisine with a French twist, sophisticated and creative with pleasant staff. Wine list. 
• Au Cabaret Vert Restaurant (Au Cabaret Vert-Hôtel à Battambang), Toul Ta Ek, Otakom 2 (5 min from the market by tuk-tuk), ☏ +855 53 6562000, +855 77 991384, info@aucabaretvert.com. Traditional Cambodian dishes, their speciality is fish amok, complemented by a French-style menu that includes desserts and wine. US$9-16 for a main course, starters US$8-12. 
• 🌍 Cafe Eden, Rd 1, ☏ +855 77 534 840, cafeedencambodia@gmail.com. W-M 07:30-21:00. Western-style river front cafe restaurant run by an American woman. Serves Western and Asian food, and coffee. Kitchen works to Western food handling and preparation standards. 
• Coconut Lyly, Street 111 (200 m west from central market), ☏ +855 16 399 339, coconutlyly@gmail.com. 09:00–22:00. Offers a nice compact menu with mainly Khmer dishes. The food is recommendable. US$3-4 for a main course. (updated Jan 2017)
• Flavors of India, Street 121 (Near intersection with Road 1.5), ☏ +855 53 731 553. 11:00–22:00. Excellent North Indian dishes with local and imported beers, lassi and noteworthy entrees. Mains from US$3-5.
• Gecko Cafe, St 3 (one block south of Psa Nath Market). Nice atmosphere, limited but very tasty menu. Free Wi-Fi. 
• Smokin' Pot, corner of Street 121 and Road 1.5. This Battambang mainstay offers a good variety of Khmer, Thai and Western food in an aging-yet-charming setting that echoes the city itself. Vegetarian friendly. Good drinks. US$3-5. 
• White Rose (Ko Lap Sor) (almost opposite the Smoking Pot). Huge menu, and some great fruit shakes. This place is a bit more 'Asian' than Western, but is still full of foreigners. Service is chaotic, food is quite good, and the upstairs provides one of the few Battambang eateries where you get an outlook and a breeze. 
• Heng Chhay Ly Food Court (3rd Floor), Borei Road off Street 1. 08:00-21:00. (updated Mar 2019)
• Nary Kitchen (Street 111, 200 m from central market), ☏ +855 12 763 950, navulthk@yahoo.com. Home of Battambang's original cooking school, this restaurant remains highly popular. A nice range of Asian and Western dishes, US$3-4.50. Nice shakes. Host speaks fluent English and French. Central. (updated Jul 2019)

• Espresso Cafe (Beside Hotel Royal, inner side of yellow art-deco market). Everything is provided with a smile. Great smoothies. A good family-run Khmer restaurant. 
• Kinyei Cafe (Street One and a Half), End of St 1.5 (head south from central market on St 2, turn left and it's at the end/corner of that little street), ☏ +855 69 734745. Good cafe menu with a few snacks but mainly just excellent coffee and drinks. Cool alleyway atmosphere. 
• The Place (Rooftop bar), 53 Rd No 3 (atop The Place Hostel), ☏ +855 967 598568. Open air ambience. (updated Apr 2022)
• Miss Wong Battambang, Street 2, Phsar Nat, ☏ +855 92 428332. Nice stained glass lamp with subdued lighting. (updated Apr 2022)

Battambang is very hot during Feb–May, when air conditioning (which adds perhaps US$5 to room cost) is hard to do without. For those with vulnerable stomachs, the hot season is also the least safe, food-wise. Like all Cambodian cities, Battambang is dusty, and eye problems can result. Wear your largest sunglasses when moving around on foot or by tuk tuk.

Street dogs (including those fed by stallholders in the main market, Psar Nath) occasionally attack non-locals, so carrying a stick or stones is a good precaution if out walking.

A general rule if you want to help out the kids begging on the streets is to buy them food but don't give them money. Adults with 'charity ID' collecting money 'for the children', generally near the river, are scammers. Sometimes they'll ask you to volunteer to teach local kids English: this generally ends in an attempt to get money from you.

If you are sick or injured, see a Western-trained doctor not one trained in Cambodia; there is often at least one of these at the Handa Medical Centre. (No appointment needed: just show up.)

• Phnom Penh
• Siem Reap (for Angkor)