Varanasi

The city can be scorchingly hot in the summer months so instead, if possible, time your visit between October and March, and bring something warm to wear for chilly days and nights.

• 🌍 Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport (VNS  ^IATA), Babatpur (25 km (16 mi) NW of the city centre. A taxi to/from the airport takes an hour and costs ₹750, while a tuk-tuk/auto-rickshaw can take twice as long and costs ₹500. Allow extra time due to traffic.). Air India, JetKonnect, SpiceJet, and IndiGo all operate regular flights to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Khajuraho and Visakhapatnam. There are flights to Sharjah on Air India Express, to Kathmandu on Buddha Air and to Bangkok on Thai Airways. (updated May 2023)

See also: Rail travel in India

There are multiple daily services to cities including Delhi (13 hours), Agra (13 hours), Lucknow (7 hours), Mumbai (25-27 hours), Kolkata (12-14 hours) and Siliguri (14-16 hours).

Varanasi is served by three major railway stations:

• 🌍 Varanasi Junction (station code: BSB). The trip between the train station and the Ganges riverfront costs ₹100 in an auto-rickshaw. 
• 🌍 Banaras (station code: BSBS). The trip between the train station and the Ganges riverfront costs ₹100 in an auto-rickshaw. (updated May 2023)
• 🌍 Pandit Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction (Mughalsarai Junction, station code: DDU). Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction is about 20 km east of the city. The trip between the train station and the Ganges riverfront costs ₹500 in a taxi and ₹250-300 in an auto. (updated Aug 2019)

Here is a list of useful trains to reach Varanasi:

• 🌍 Bus station (E of Varanasi Junction  NR ). An auto from the bus station to the Ganges riverfront costs ₹150. (updated May 2023)

Buses are available from major cities in Nepal to the border city of Sunauli. From the Sunauli bus station, take a rickshaw (₹200) to the border crossing, get your passport stamped on the Nepali side then walk through the border. After 100 m of walking through no-man's land, you will find the Indian immigration office hidden away on the left-hand side of the road. After going through Indian immigration, walk 300 m and find the bus stop on the right-hand side. From there, take the government bus to Gorakhpur, not the private lines which are far less comfortable and stop everywhere. The bus trip between the border and Gorakhpur takes 4 hours and costs ₹60. To reach Varanasi from Gorakhpur, you can either take a train from Gorakhpur Junction (5-7 trains per day, 5.5-7 hour journey, ₹200-800 cost) or a bus (hourly, at least 8-hour journey, ₹130 cost). Budhha Air has also some packages for devotees visiting Varanasi.

The cheapest option is perhaps to take the bus in Kathmandu from the Monkey Temple to Birganj/Raxaul for about ₹700, and take a train from Raxaul to Varanasi- but you risk not making the border by 10PM because of breakdowns and the Raxaul-Varanasi train doesn't run often.

There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8 hours, ₹160), Gorakhpur (8 hours or more, ₹130), Khajuraho (12 hours, ₹250), Kanpur (9 hours - ₹195), Faizabad (7 hours, ₹105), Bodh Gaya (7 hours, ₹600) and Prayagraj (3 hours - ₹107 for AC, ₹60 w/o AC).

Walking is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats - but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters. For better orientation, walk into any bookstore and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list and description of all the ghats.

The chaotic streets of Varanasi are sometimes too much to handle on foot. Therefore, it will often be convenient to travel by cycle rickshaw or auto-rickshaw. A short journey of a few kilometres should cost under ₹50, while a longer journey within the city, such as between the ghats and the train station, will cost ₹100. Further journeys, such as to Sarnath (10 km), cost ₹500 there and back (with a one- to two-hour waiting period) or ₹300 one way by auto-rickshaw.

There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at Varanasi Junction  NR .

While taxis and cars-for-hire do exist, you can hire them for airport/railway/bus station transfers and for major city tour specially for BHU,Sarnath and Ramnager tour. You Can travel from other cities to varanasi by Car as its well connected by major cities of country.

• Big Cab Varanasi. Big Cab Varanasi is also present in Varanasi. (updated Apr 2024)

Bicycle rental is available from many vendors. Inquire at your hotel.

The Ganges is the most sacred river in the world for Hindus, and you will see traditional rituals and bathing occurring at all times of the day. On the Eastern banks, the Ganges is flanked by a 300-m-wide sand belt, beyond which lies a green belt, a protected area reserved for turtle breeding. The western crescent-shaped bank of the River Ganga is flanked by a continuous stretch of 84 ghats, or series of steps leading down to the river, stretching for 6.8 km. These ghats were built by Hindu kings who wanted to die along the Ganges, and they built lofty palaces along the river, most of which are now hotels, to spend their final days. You can walk along the river and see all of the ghats, but the best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river.

Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as burning ghats, where over 200 corpses per day are cremated in full view before their ashes are eased into the Ganges.

Some of the most popular ghats, from north to south:

• 🌍 Panchganga Ghat. the meeting of the five rivers. 
• 🌍 Manikarnika Ghat. The main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and avoid taking photographs (scams are plentiful here; see the "Stay Safe" section). There's a 74 m (243 ft) temple on the ghat called Ratneshwar Temple, which is leaning by 9°, more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Its sanctum is generally underwater most of the year, except during the summer. 
• 🌍 Dashashwamedh Ghat. Known as the 'main' ghat, this is the site of the large evening aarti ceremony. The ceremony starts right after the sunset and lasts for around 45 minutes. 
• 🌍 Rana Ghat. The ghat is on the banks of the Ganges which helps people to do religious ceremonies without any difficulty. 
• 🌍 Kedar Ghat. Brightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic. 
• 🌍 Narad Ghat. The ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because of the myth of contention. 
• 🌍 Harishchandra Ghat. The cremation place where Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son. 
• Hanuman Ghat. It used to be known as Ramesvaram Ghat and is at a holy spot known as Juna Akhara in Varanasi. People believe that the Ghat was constructed by Lord Rama and hence it is dedicated to his favourite disciple, Lord Hanuman. 
• 🌍 Shivala Ghat. The ghat was constructed by King Balwant Singh and played an important role during the Middle Ages. It comes under the western part of Varanasi and as the name suggests disciples connected the ghat with Lord Shiva. (updated Dec 2023)
• 🌍 Tulsi Ghat. Site of the large water purification plant. 
• 🌍 Assi Ghat. A popular place for tourists, long-term students and researchers to stay, with many hotels, restaurants, and internet cafes nearby. The morning aarti, known as Subah e Banars, is held at the Assi Ghat. 

• 🌍 Lal Khan Tomb (north of Malviya Bridge next to Rajghat). 9 Am - 5 PM. Lal Khan was the minister and commander of Balwant Sing (reign: 1740 – 70) the King of Varanasi (then Banaras). His last wish was to be buried in such a place so that he could keep an eye on the gateway of the royal palace. The king kept his last wish by building him a magnificent tomb on the northern edge of Varanasi. The tomb stands at the centre of a Mughal garden, marked with four chhatris on four corners out of which three stand to this day. The tomb stands on an elevated square plinth, which also houses several graves. so that he could keep an eye on the gateway of the royal palace. The tomb is crowned with a single dome flanked with chhatris on four corners. Each side has three arches with the central arches slightly higher than the side ones. The highlight of the tomb is the decorative multi-coloured tile work. Sadly, the colours have faded, robbing the tomb of its elegant look. ₹ 20 (same ticket for Lal Khan Tomb and Rajghat). (updated May 2023)
• 🌍 Alamagir Mosque. Overlooking Panchganga Ghat, it's a great place for a bird's eye view of the area. 
• 🌍 Gyanvapi Mosque. A rather controversial mosque built during the rule of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. It is believed among the Hindus that the Gyanvapi Mosque is the original site of Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Photography is prohibited. (updated Aug 2023)

• 🌍 Bharat Mata Temple. The Bharat Mata temple at Varanasi is the only temple dedicated to Mother India. It is located in the Mahatma Gandhi Kashi Vidyapeeth campus. The Bharat Mata temple was built by Babu Shiv Prasad Gupt and inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi in 1936. The statute of Bharat Mata is built in marble and is a model of undivided India, depicting the mountains, plains and oceans. The most peculiar thing about the Bharat Mata Temple is that instead of the customary gods and goddesses, it houses a relief map of India, carved out of marble. 
• 🌍 Durga Temple. Built in the 18th century, the Durga temple was made as a tribute to Goddess Durga. It is also one of the well-known temples in Varanasi. 
• 🌍 Gauri Matha Temple. The devi at this temple is supposed to be the sister of the lord Kashi Vishwanath. It is a tradition to visit her just before you leave Kashi. You buy sea shells at this place and offer them to God saying that the virtues of donating the shells go to her while you keep the virtues of having visited the holy shrines in Kashi and bathing in the Ganges. The trip to Kashi is expected to yield results only after completing this custom. 
• 🌍 Kaal Bhairav Temple. It is the temple for Kaal Bhairav - a dreadful form of Lord Shiva symbolising death. It is a tradition to buy black threads (costs about ₹15 per 50 threads as of Sep 2009), keep it in the shrine and then wear it on the arm, wrist or around the neck as a protection against evil forces. 
• 🌍 Nepali Hindu Temple (Kathwala Temple) (near Lalita Ghat). This small, golden temple was built by the 19th-century exiled king of Nepal, Rana Bahadur Shah. It is shaped in the typical Nepali pagoda architectural style. 
• 🌍 Kashi Vishwanath Temple (The Golden Temple). The most famous temple in the city, dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas of Shaivism. The temple was destroyed multiple times by Mughal invaders and was reconstructed by Hindu kings who followed them. There are four gates to enter the temple. The main gate, called "Ganga Dwar", is accessible from the Manikarnika Ghat. There is a wide corridor leading to the main temple. Security is tight making entrance to the main temple difficult and sometimes completely off-limits to foreigners. Bags, mobile phones or pens are not allowed inside the main temple, although they are allowed within the corridor. You have to deposit them at the "mobile lockers" within the corridor area. If you enter the temple from other three gates, you have to deposit the prohibited items at the nearby shops. (updated Dec 2023)
• 🌍 Tulsi Manas Temple. Located near the very popular Durga temple, this marvellous temple is dedicated to lord Rama. Tulsi Manas temple was established during 1964 in the form of white marble structure. 
• 🌍 Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple (Sankatmochan Mandir), 27, Durgakund Rd, Jawahar Nagar Colony, Bhelupur, ☏ +91 99354 67417. Sankat Mochan Temple is dedicated to the Lord Hanuman. This temple is also called as the Monkey temple because of the presence of lot of monkeys inside the premises. It is one of the holy temples of the Lord Hanuman and the main location for Hindus for their many religious as well as cultural festivals. It is located in the southern part of Varanasi, on the way to the Durga Mandir and New Vishwanath temple BHU. The meaning of the Sankat Mochan is relief from all the problems (Sankat means problem and Mochan means relief giver). Sankat Mochan Temple was constructed by the educationist and freedom fighter Pt. Madan Mohan Malviya (the founder of the BHU) in the early 1900s. The Hanuman Jayanti (birthday of the Lord Hanuman) is celebrated every year by organising a special Shobha Yatra (a parade) from Durga temple (Durga Kund) to the Sankat Mochan Temple. (updated Apr 2018)

• Chhath Pooja (November) - The four day festival for the sun god, Dala aka Surya. Rituals include holy bathing, fasting and abstaining from drinking water (Vratta), standing in water for long periods of time, and offering prashad (prayer offerings) and aragh (water) to the setting and rising sun.
• Deepavali, or Diwali (October–November) - The five day festival of lights. The special decorations, ceremonies at the temples, and aarti ceremony at the ghats are spectacular. After Diwali there is a day known as Dev Deepavali. On this day all the ghats have oil lamps lit on the ghat steps which is a very pleasant sight to watch. Use the boat ride if you are not with any local. Avoid walking through the ghat on that day.
• Maha Shivaratri (February) - A Hindu festival celebrating Lord Shiva, who lived in Varanasi according to Hindu mythology. On this day, the streets of Varanasi are filled with pilgrims and parades dedicated to Shiva occur all day. Entrance to temples will require long queue and the temples will be extremely crowded. The day of Shivaratri is also the last day of the Dhrupad Mela, a festival of "Hindustani" (a form of Indian classical music) that goes on night and day for about 72 hours.

Yoga classes are very popular among visitors to Varanasi.

• Siddharth Yoga Centre, Mansarowar Ghat (below Lotus Lounge Restaurant), ☏ +91-92368 30966, +91-96215 13784, yogisiddharthyadavvns@gmail.com. Small-group yoga classes with a view of the Ganges. Taught by Siddharth. 
• Yoga Training Centre, D.5/15, Shakarkand Lane (near Meer Ghat), ☏ +91 9452247010. Run by Sunil Jhingan Kumar. Highly recommended. 

Ayurveda treatment is common in Varanasi and you can take classes to learn the techniques:

• Punarnava Health, Raman Nivas Campus, Mahmoorganj (in front of Radio Station), ☏ +91 9453109313 (ask for Dr.Pramod Kumar), drpramodbhu@gmail.com. Classes and treatments in Ayurvedic food habits, daily routine, massage, Shirodhara, steam bath, leech therapy, and Panchkarma. 

• Hindi Language Center, B1\150 L-10 Assi (near Banaras Hindu University), ☏ +91 9452247010, binitkumar_mishra@rediffmail.com. Classes in Hindi. 
• Pragati Hindi (on the north side of Kedar ghat, follow the signs that say 'pragati hindi'), pragatihindi@yahoo.co.in. Fun Hindi language lessons. Raju's teaching style makes Hindi very simple to understand. ₹500/hour. 

• 🌍 Gowdalia Chowk, Gowdalia. One of the most busy shopping areas in Varanasi. Products that are available here include silk and zari sarees, salwar suits, garments, bags and handicrafts. (updated Feb 2020)
• Shri Khatu Ji wholesale Bazar (Khatu ji), Near Hotel Costa Rivera, Maldahiya Varanasi (Nearest To Cantt Railway Station), ☏ +91 8299247566, Shrikhatujeeholsalebazar@gmail.com. 10AM TO 9PM. Banarasi Silk Sarees At Wholesale Rates. (updated Dec 2022)

• Harmony Books, Assi Ghat B 1/158 (a two-minute walk from the river front), ☏ +91-542-2310218, harmonythebookshop@gmail.com. A bookshop with a real bookshop feel. The owner is very knowledgeable about his stock. (updated Jul 2017)
• Kashi Annapoorna Book House, B 1/185 Main Assi Ghat (above the river front), ☏ +91 9453882138, annapurnabookhouse@rediffmail.com. A small bookshop with books on subjects related to India, Hinduism, and Buddhism. (updated Jul 2017)

• Dirty Laundry (Located on the main road that runs along the length of the ghats. If you walk out to the main road from the small burning ghat go to the right and walk about 1km. If you go to the road from the main ghat head to the left for about 1km. Look for the big purple signage.). A traveller's secondhand shop, Dirty Laundry sells used clothing, electronics, books and other travel essentials. They will take your old goods on exchange. 
• Loan Arts & Crafts, S-20/52a, Nepali Kothi (next to Hotel Surya and Varanasi Arts Emporium), ☏ +91 9336062161, mloan_in@yahoo.com. 12. Silk carpets, hand-made, hand-knotted oriental Persian carpets, silk products, silk pashminas, hand-embroidered and hand-stitched cashmere wool, papier mache and lots of handicrafts. 
• Mehrotra Factory, K 4-8A, Lal Ghat, Raj Mandir (near Brahma Ghat, follow the multiple yellow signs), ☏ +91 542 2435892. 
• Pratha, Shop No.38, Kashi Anathalaya Building, Maldahiya (by the Main Anathalaya Building), ☏ +91 9451089499. noon to 8PM. A small shop by the corner, showcasing Hand Block printed cotton kurties, suits and accessories. This store does not offer commissions to guides. 
• Sri Guru Perfumers, D, 32/15, Munshi Ghat, Bengali Tola Lane (before Spicie Bites; enter Bengali Tola Lane on the way to Dashashwamedh Ghat; turn at the Bank of Baroda ATM; there is another perfume shop on the corner before Sri Guru Perfumers, so beware). Very nice selection of perfumes and natural oils, some of them made by the family of the owner Shankar Roy. Homemade incense is great. 
• The Bed Silk and Pasmina, Nagwa Road, Assi Ghat (on the right corner of the main street when coming from the ghat), ☏ +91 99182 80738. 9AM - 8PM. A small shop with a good selection of hand and machine-woven silk items and pashmina shawls. (updated Jul 2017)
• Wow India, B 1/153, Assi Ghat Road, Ganga Math, Assi Ghat (the big corner shop, follow the tourists). A large collection of handicrafts from all over the country, a good herbal teas, incense and plenty more. Prices are moderate and fixed. 

• Kashi Chat Center: (near Godowlia Crossing) Good assortment of exotic chats. Try out the Aloo Tikia Chat.
• Lotus lounge: (at mansoravor ghat) through the alleys, great food a must for every visitors.
• Madhur Jalpan: The best place for laddoos and other famous sweet delicacies is 'Madhur Jalpan', a shop that has been frequented by more than two prime ministers of India! Madhur Jalpan is on Baradev - next to the Kainiya Chitra Mandir. Again, on a small alleyway, but the sweets are to die for.
• Shiv Lassi Bhandar: (near the main gate of RamNagar Fort) Lassi with layers of Malai and Rabri. Superb Stuff.

• A C Shahi Restaurant & Kesari Restaurant near Dasashwmedh ghat in Godaulia and Shahi Restaurant near Rathyatra crossing serve very good vegetarian north and south Indian dishes.
• Cozy Corner Restaurant (CCR) Homely, healthy and hygienic is the motto of CCR. They specialise in Indian, South Indian and Chinese and serve fantastic dosas and chole bhature. It's a nice cozy place to hang out and the service is superb. Located just down the street from Assi Ghat. Turn left on Dumrao Bagh (first street when walking from the ghat) and walk about 50 m, just past Open Hand. Phone +91 9369305877.
• Diamond Hotel and Jaika Restaurant near Vijaya Talkies Crossing in Bhelupur serve very good north Indian dishes.
• Dosa Cafe, (in the main alley behind the ghats, north of the main ghat) serves delicious South Indian dishes for a good price.
• Ganga Paying Guest House & Rooftop Restaurant, (near Assi Ghat on the bank of River Ganges) +91 9936491103. A very nice place to eat with an awesome view of River Ganges and all the ghats. The food is very nice but it takes a little time but with that beautiful view you would like to spend more time sitting there even without food.
• Ganga View, D 22/16 Chaustti Ghat (Sita Guest House rooftop). One of the myriad guest house rooftop restaurants in Varanasi and not a particularly memorable one at that. Serves Indian continental and western food (non-veg not available). Like most places in the area the rooftop is enclosed in a cage to keep the monkeys out (or is that humans in?) which detracts from the view. 
• Karki's Restaurant If you're in Assi Ghat this place is a great oasis with a rooftop restaurant that serves cheap but great quality Nepalese & Italian food among others. Highly recommended are the Nepalese Thali and Fresh Basil Pesto Pasta (only Saturday & Sunday). It's on the main road down to Assi Ghat on the left, look for the green roof as it's upstairs and has a small entrance. Say hi to Karki and his gorgeous daughter who loves to poke faces at guests.
• Mona Lisa Cafe, (just south and opposite Shiva Cafe). Another good and popular cheapie, with a good range of things on offer, notably a thali for ₹20, and some Japanese and Korean dishes thrown in for good measure.
• Nice cafe, Bengali Tola (near Mona Lisa, on turn off for Vishnu GH). 7AM - late. Great food cooked only by mum and family. Home kitchen. Clean. Friendly and helpful owner. Very reasonable prices, except on festival days when hot chocolate is poured over everyone for a fixed price of ₹1000 per person. Check out the garlic / cheese nan and the pancakes! ₹25-55 for meal. 
• Shiva Cafe and German Bakery, D 26/4 Narad Ghat, (near Himalaya Lodge). In the main little alleyway that runs parallel to the river between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat, this place is deservedly popular. The food takes time, but that's because it's prepared fresh, and you'll be happy you waited when the food arrives. Staffed by enterprising Nepalis this has authentic pastas, sandwiches etc. Healthy food. Favourite among long stay residents.
• Spicy Bites, D. 32/16A Bangali Tola (on Bangali Tola, an alleyway off Dashashwamegh Ghat (main Ghat)), ☏ +91 9935516530, spicybitesvaranasi@gmail.com. One of a number of restaurants along Bangali Tola, this place is great for breakfast as they have a full on espresso machine and serve good food. Free WiFi. Under ₹150 for a breakfast with espresso & drinks. 
• Suryoday, (in the alley behind the ghats, a few minutes walk South of Kedar ghat) small but delicious menu in a clean little spot by Kedar Ghat.
• Yogik's Cafe (formerly Open Hand Cafe), Dumraon Bagh Colony, Assi Ghat (walking from ghat, turn left before Hotel Haifa), ☏ +91 542 2369 751. Noon-10PM. Warm and inviting interior. Smoothies and fresh juices. Set breakfast, salads, bread rolls, fruit salad. Thali and Indian dishes. Instant coffee only. Severely understaffed - very slow service. Free WIFI. 

• Brown Bread Bakery, near Meer Ghat, ☏ +91 9838888823. A good bakery run by a German baker in Varanasi. Be wary of the Indian run bakery on the opposite side of the road who claims to be charitable but is just fake. Breads and pastries made from organically grown ingredients. Also a nice range of cheeses. The restaurant has a large menu including Continental, Italian, German and Indian classics, has a great rooftop and offers a breakfast buffet from 7AM to noon. Quality is pretty good and a part of the proceeds supports the Learn For Life society which operates a free school for disadvantaged children in Aurangabad, Varanasi. 
• Dolphin Restaurant (about a two minute walk north of Dashashwamedh Ghat). The food and service are good, not great, but the real reason to come here is for the rooftop overlooking the Ghats and the river. Also has free and fast WiFi. Prices for a full meal: ₹200 - 600. 
• Filocafe, ☏ +91 9839066788. 2-10PM. A space to study, read, network, converse, experiment, think. Equipped with free Wi-Fi and electric outlets available to all, Filocafé offers a variety of over 45 types of teas, Italian espresso coffee (yes, coming out from those Italian machines) and its creative varieties, fresh juices and a few munchies. 
• Flavours Cafe, Lanka, (above axis bank). Great coffee and desserts. Strong filter coffee and lightly accented lattes with a quiet ambiance make for a needed break from the city. Free wireless is also a plus.
• Madhur Milan Cafe, Dashashwamedh Road. A nice place for Indian snacks and meals at cheap prices. Cafe is primarily famous for its fried hot samosas, dosa and kachori sabji. 
• Megu Cafe, Kalika Gali (near Meer Ghat), has excellent vegetarian Japanese food made by a Japanese woman who settled in Varanasi a number of years ago. All dishes are ₹85 or less. Closed on Sundays. [December 2011] Menu prices of all items have increased and expect to pay around ₹100-130 for a vegetarian and around ₹180-200 for non vegetarian main meal.
• Moti Mahal Delux restaurant - in Sigra, 3rd Floor, IP Mall, in the heart of the city. +91 542–2220555. One of the best Indian and mughlai restaurant in the city with a unique fine dining experience. Also provides free delivery of your meal at any location in the city. Also serves authentic Chinese and continental.
• Zaika restaurant - in Shivala, opposite Hotel Broadway. Good Indian / Chinese dishes; try the sweet-corn-pakoras.

Possibly due to a high influx of tourists from Israel, a number of Middle Eastern restaurants have opened in Varanasi, all of which serve very similar food, cater to a predominantly tourist clientèle, and charge a little over ₹100 for a thali.

• Haifa Cafe: Assi Ghat, (in Hotel Haifa). Most popular for its Middle-Eastern cuisine such as the thali (delicious!), but has a wide range of Indian and continental dishes and is also popular at breakfast. The Jordanian brothers aren't here anymore. Now it is just a regular hotel. The food is awful too with the Jordanians gone.
• Hayat mediterreian': near Assi (new location= behind dumraon bag colony park), managed by middle-easterners from Jordan. Try the labanha (dry yoghurt), or the baba ghanSoush (aubergine / eggplant) with pita. The feta is a tad high in salt. The restaurant has a tent-like lounge atmosphere that gives it a cult presence. Ask for "hello to the queen" and see smiles. Very good quality, pleasant open air magnetosphere.
• Phulwari / Sami Cafe: near the Vishwanath Temple crossing, you sit beside a religiously near-defunct but architecturally gorgeous Mahadev temple, and sip on iced teas and nanas. Some locals still consider this a holy site and aren't too happy about the cafe being so close. This temple has been usurped by thugs who sponsor this restaurant. Perhaps avoid on ethical grounds. No other heritage Indian temple has a restaurant in its courtyard.

• Hotel Clarks, The Mall, Varanasi 221002. 
• Radisson Hotel, The Mall Cantonment, Varanasi 221002. 
• Varuna, ☏ +91 542 250-300. And Chowk, Taj Ganges Hotel, Nadesar Palace Grounds. - Two restaurants respectively offering Indian and Western cuisine. The Taj is excellent as usual. 

Coffee is not as common in Varanasi as it is in the bigger and more cosmopolitan cities, and is often just available as the instant variety, served black or white. Even in those cafes that serve real coffee, it is still hit or miss whether it is of standard taste. All the cafes listed here at least sell the real stuff.

• Aum Cafe, B1/201 Assi Ghat (Walk up steps next to Pizza Town on river-front.), ☏ +91 93353 61122. Tu-Sun: 7AM-4:30PM. A crystals-yoga-type cafe. OK coffee. Healthy and tasty meals. Wide range of herbal tea and fresh juice options. Bright interior. Small gift shop. Early opening makes it convenient for breakfasts, though options are limited. 
• Brown Bread Bakery, 25/42 Ganga Mahal (in the main alley leading from Dashashwamedh Ghat.), ☏ +91 9838888823. Simple cafe. Excellent pastries, bread, and Indian dishes. Coffee. Good selection of organic cheeses. Multi-grain bread sold by the loaf. 
• El Cafe 80, Dumraon Bagh Colony, Assi Ghat (from the ghat, take the first left; cafe is on the right), ☏ +91 9871280230. 10AM-10PM. Ok Coffee. Good pizza, pasta, and Indian dishes. Western and Indian breakfasts. Cosy atmosphere. Floor-cushion seating, Table seats. Free Wi-Fi. 
• Imok (in the main alley leading from Dashashwamedh Ghat). Small corner cafe. Large painting of HH Dalai Lama and Lord Shiva on the wall. Probably the best coffee in the lanes. People-watching balcony. 
• Mona Lisa Cafe (in the main alley leading from Dashashwamedh Ghat). Bright and cool interior. Rooftop seating. Friendly service. Mediocre coffee and pastries. 
• The Mark Cafe, Dumraon Bagh Colony, Assi Ghat (from the ghat, take the first left; cafe is on the right), ☏ +91 93053 06392. 7:30AM-8:30PM. Coffee, pizza, pasta. Backstreet atmosphere. Experienced barista - touted as the best coffee in the area. Food is ok. Reasonable prices. Free Wi-Fi. One of the only cafes in the area to open early and serve breakfast. 

While chai shops are found throughout the city, a few are worthy of special note.

• Engineer Chai Wala, Assi Road, Chauraha, Assi Ghat (a five minute walk from the ghat, vertically opposite Haifa Hotel; smaller branch near The Mark Cafe in Assi Ghat), ☏ +91 85729 73351. 8AM-9:30PM. Run by a guy with an engineer's degree in solar energy who has a passion for chai. More than ten varieties of tea sold in clay cups. Fast service. Thick and delicious chai. A variety of lassi - plain and flavoured. (updated Mar 2023)

Alcohol is available at a few restaurants and hotels, such as the Radisson and Taj. There are several wine shops in the old city but they don't offer any sitting arrangement. You can buy whatever you want and bring it to your hotel room.

• 🌍 Radisson Hotel Varanasi, The Mall, Cantonment, ☏ +91 542 250 1515. Alcoholic drinks are available in the bar. (updated Jan 2018)

Bhang is a potent, powdered form of marijuana often mixed into "special" lassis, simply called bhang lassi. The drink is especially popular on holidays as Varanasi is a major centre of Shiva worship as it is offered to the lord in form of Prashad. Caution should be taken as it can be quite intoxicating and the effects last hours; tourists have been known to be robbed after consuming bhang.

Thandai is a cool, milk-based drink made with pistachios, almonds and saffron, topped off with a large dollop of malai (cream). Bhang is often added to thicken the concoction, though it can be made without it. Many Thandai stores are located near the main Godowlia, and most also serve lassi.

Cheaper hotels and hostels can be found around the "Assi ghat" and train station areas, check hot water and wifi for yourself.

• 🌍 Ganges Nirvana Free Hostel (Ganges Nirvana Community & Homestay), Shashwat Shandilya House, Plot no. 175, Lane no.2, Shree Ram Nagar Colony (Near Manduadih Railway Station), ☏ +91 9999230102, +91 9235135611, +91 5422360331. The Ganges Nirvana Free Hostel a small hostel. It is very simple and work is underway to make it more homely. For example by painting the walls with graffiti. If you want to help out with any small thing, you are welcome to stay for free. You will stay with people from couchsurfing, workaway and other places, and the owner often arranges small free trips (just share the expenses for petrol) around and outside of the city. Great rooftop terrace in a noise-free area of Varanasi. Rooms range from free to ₹500 (double room) per day. (updated Aug 2019)
• International Travellers' Hostel (ITH Varanasi), C-32/4, Vidyapeeth Road (5-min walk from Varanasi Junction station, opposite Gate #2 of Vidyapeeth University), ☏ +91-542-2220058, hello@itravellershostel.com. Check-in: noon, check-out: 11:00. A hostel run out of an ancestral family house. The owner lives in Germany and his staff manage the hostel. There are mixed and female dormitories available with 4-5 beds each. There is a cottage-style superior room with en-suite bathroom for the ones with a slightly higher budget, and a tent for the ones on extremely tight budget. Breakfast inclusive prices can be booked online. The rooms are cosy and silent with comfortable beds. The hostel also features a bistro that serves delicious vegetarian and vegan meals. Their menu also includes authentic Italian coffee. There are several pleasant common areas, including a garden and a first-floor terrace. It's a great place to be away from the chaos of Varanasi. Very good to socialise, and for celebrating Indian festivals, especially Holi. Amenities include fast Wi-Fi, TV, Bluetooth speakers, DVDs, books, card & board games, PC, lockers, washing machine, hair dryers, communal kitchen and purified drinking water. Free vegan toiletries' kit is provided with private rooms and vegan soap bar with other rooms. They also have dual power back-up (battery inverter and power generator), which can be very helpful during power outages in the scorching summers. Dorm beds: ₹499 / ₹599; Tent: ₹999; Private rooms: ₹1,599 / ₹2,249 / ₹2,599. (updated Aug 2019)
• Ram Bhawan / Kautilya Society Residence (कौटिल्य संघ), D-20/21 Munshi Ghat (on the banks of the River Ganga), ☏ +91 542-2452179, +91 542-2455139, info@kautilyasociety.com. This is the study centre of an NGO that supports responsible development through dialogue that also offers rooms for students and scholars. The residence is similar to an Indian home with simple comforts and colonial teak furniture. In accordance with Indian law, all guests must become members of the Society and pay membership dues of ₹300. These donations cover half board (₹200 per day for additional guests sharing the same room). In low season rates are approximately 20% lower. Long term guests can get discounts. Dorm bed: ₹400; Single: ₹1,000; Double: ₹1,700. 
• Stops Art Hostel, B 20/47, A-2, Vijayanagaram Colony, Bhelupur (1.1km east of Hanuman Ghat, near the water tower. In an alleyway behind the Dolphin Hotel), ☏ +91 9871360382. Check-in: noon, check-out: 11AM. Bright, airy, super modern hostel. Location in an alleyway makes it quieter. In a large, 3-floor house. Affordable organised activities all day including walking tours (₹100+transport), boat trips, cooking classes (₹200), yoga/mediation classes, movie nights, etc...The hostel is run by a very professional young Indian couple with superb English and a very keen understanding of what a hostel should be with full recommendations for eating, drinking, tourism etc. It has air-con, 24 hour security and a very happy relaxed vibe, especially out on the shaded balconies on the upper floor, complete with benches and sofas, great for meeting others. Highly recommended. Tent on roof: ₹350; Dorm bed: ₹450-650; Double: ₹1900. 
• Zostel Varanasi, D-54/16-D, Jaddumandi, Aurangabad Luxa Road (near Mritunjai Mahadev Temple), ☏ +91 964 800 0010, rajapayinglodge@gmail.com. Check-out: 10AM. A friendly hostel 20 minutes walk to the main ghat. Very noisy location, but a great place to meet people. Dorm bed: ₹390; Double: ₹990. 

• Bhadrakali Guest House, Along the river, just off the main ghat (Just off the main ghat), ☏ +91 542 245 4104, Bhadrakaliassociation@gmail.com. The guesthouse is a colourful, family-owned, music-oriented house with panoramic views of the city and of the River Ganga. A couple of the rooms in this cozy 7-room guesthouse also have balconies and river views. Highly recommended. 
• Ganga Fuji Home, D7/21, Sakarkand Gali (between Man Mandeer Ghat and Dasaswamedh Ghat), ☏ +91 542 239 7333. Some rooms have shared bathroom; more expensive rooms have air-con and TV. All rooms are clean, with clean sheets and towel. The rooftop restaurant offers evening concerts every night. Double: ₹840 (without air-con), ₹1,300 (with air-con). 
• Golden Lodge, D. 8/35, Kalika Gali, Godowlia (Near Manikarnika Ghat), ☏ +91 99355 12368, goldenvaranasi@gmail.com. Check-out: noon. Tucked away in the alleyways, friendly staff. Restaurant on site. Single w/shared bath: ₹350; Double w/shared bath: ₹400; double that for air-con, add ₹150 for attached bath. 20% discount in low season. 
• Hotel River View, K-20/133,134 Rajmandir Brahma Ghat (walk north from Dasaswamedh Ghat for about 15 minutes, and follow the numerous blue-and-white painted signs), ☏ +91 9455578071. US$10-25. 
• Kedar Guest House, B-1/148-A-2-KH, Lodging Street, Dumraon Colony (Just west of Ravidas Ghat, along the Assi River), ☏ +91 542 236 8853. Highly recommended. Amazing views. The owner is very knowledgeable and will give you maps and explain Varanasi. Single: ₹350 (shared bathroom outside), ₹850 (bathroom attached); double: ₹1250. Breakfast included.. (updated Mar 2019)
• Maa Vaishno Guest House (माँ वैशो गेस्ट हाउस), B5/188 Shivala Ghat (Shivala Ghat, just off Hanuman Ghat), ☏ +91 938 917 8569, vermadinesh81@gmail.com. Check-in: 24 hr, check-out: noon. One of the cheapest decent guesthouses in the area. Family run guesthouse. 10 clean rooms, all with attached bathroom with running hot and cold shower and view of the Ganga. Roof top restaurant, sunrise & sun set from roof & room, Free Wi-Fi, laundry service. ₹200-250. 
• Marigold P. Guest House, D20/10-D Munshi Ghat, Dashashwmedh Ghat (off the main ghat), ☏ +91 955 981 1240, marigoldhouse@hotmail.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: noon. Rooftop view of the Ganges. Highly recommended. From ₹700. 
• Mishra Guest House, Ck 8/178 Garwasi tolla Gaumath (Near Manikarnika Ghat), ☏ +91 542 240 1143. The rooftop restaurant offers free evening concerts every night. Single: ₹200; Double (non-AC): ₹300-400; Double (with air-con): 600-950. 
• Monu Family Paying Guest House, D8/4 Kalika Gali (Near Golden Temple), ☏ +91 542 240 0908, monufamilyguesthouse@gmail.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. Music, cookery and language courses are available. Single: ₹500; Double: ₹900 (plus ₹500 for air-con). 
• Radiant YMCA Tourist Hostel (वायएमसीए हॉस्टल), Mahmoorganj Road, Sampoornanand Nagar Colony (3 km east of the main ghat), ☏ +91 542-2224951, +91 542 2223831. Opened in 1998. Restaurant with large menu. No dormitories, despite being called a hostel. From ₹765. 
• Sahi Riverview Guest House, B1/158 A2, Assi Ghat (on Assi Ghat, next to Harmony Book Shop). Check-out: 11:00. Very clean and quiet. Great river views. Free wifi. Recommended. ₹1,200-₹2,000 for a double room.. (updated Aug 2019)
• Shiva Kashi Guest House, D22/4 Chausatti Ghat (at Raja Ghat), ☏ +91 923 551 2294. Check-out: noon. Very clean, well-decorated, quiet guest house. Pleasant and helpful staff. Rooms have windows, are light and airy. Some have balconies. Highly recommended. ₹500-2,000. 
• Sita Guest House, Chausatti Ghat (on the banks of the Ganges, next to the main ghat), ☏ +91 542 2450061, +91 542 3251088, sitaguesthouse@yahoo.com. Rooms are reasonably clean, somewhat small and most have a view over the river. Supposedly hot water in every room, the hotel also has a generator for the many power cuts in Varanasi but this often doesn't cover the air-con. Rooftop restaurant. Double (with air-con): ₹1,500-3,000. 
• Tiwari Guest Lodge, B-1/243-A, Assi Ghat (Assi Crossing, across the street from Hotel Haifa), ☏ +91 2315129. Check-out: negotiable. Run by a Brahmin and has a small temple on the site. Very relaxed and well maintained by local standards but do not expect staff to be present all the time. For check-in, the owner can usually be found sitting in the aryuvedic massage cubicle late afternoons. Bring your sheets and towel. Door is locked from midnight to 06:00. Double: ₹500. 
• Vishnu Rest House, Pandey Ghat, ☏ +91 993 643 8706. A hotel spanned over a 200-year-old Vishnu temple. A very clean and friendly guest house over looking the river, some rooms with views. You will often find classical music programs and puja held during morning and evening time. The rooms are with power backup and hot water. 

• Diamond Hotel, Durgakund Road, Bhelupur (near IP Vijaya Mall, less than 1km from the ghats), ☏ +91 542 2276696, fax: +91 542 2276703, diamotel@diamondhotel.co.in. Check-out: noon. Single: ₹2,500-3,750; Double: ₹3,000-5,500. 
• Gautam Hotel, C-26/35D, Lahurabir, Ramkatora Crossing, ☏ +91 94530 37806. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. A budget 3-star hotel. Not walkable to the ghats. US$16-25. 
• Hotel New Temple's Town, 53, Patel Nagar, Cantonment (just north of Varanasi Junction Railway Station), ☏ +91 542-2507733, +91 542-2507735, reservation.newtemplestown@gmail.com. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. US$43. 

• 🌍 A Palace on the River, Rashmi Guest House, D, 16/28-A (on Dasaswamedh Ghat), ☏ +91 542 240 2778. Great views and location. 
• Brijrama Palace, Darbhanga Ghat, ☏ +91 70840 07007. A luxury boutique hotel. One of the oldest buildings on the ghats. Views over the Ganga. Beautiful heritage-style rooms. Restaurants specializing in Indian cuisine 
• 🌍 Hotel Surya, S. 20/51 A-5 The Mall Road Nepali Kothi, ☏ +91 542 2508466. 
• 🌍 Radisson Hotel Varanasi, The Mall, Cantonment, ☏ +91 542 250 1515. From ₹3,200 in the low season, ₹5,500 in the high season. 
• 🌍 Ramada Plaza JHV, The Mall Cantonment, ☏ +91 542 2510000. 
• 🌍 Taj Ganges, Nadesar Palace Grounds, ☏ +91 542-666 0001, tajganges.varanasi@tajhotels.com. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. 130 rooms set on 40 acres of gardens. The building is in the shape of a Hindu swastika. Pets are not allowed. From ₹5,000 in the low season, ₹6,500 in the high season. 
• 🌍 Taj Nadesar Palace, Nadesar Palace Grounds, ☏ +91 542 6660002-06. A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. The building of the hotel used to be the residence of Mr Davis, the Magistrate of Benares, in January 1799. The same palace was later occupied by Maharaja Prabhu Narain Singh during his rule between 1889–1931. From ₹20,000 in the low season, ₹29,000 in the high season. 

Carry a light or phone; power outages are extremely common and, due to sleeping cows and broken paving stones, the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight, let alone in pitch dark.

Though generally well behaved, packs of stray dogs can become aggressive at night

Rickshaw and taxi scams are common in Varanasi, and the driver will inevitably tell you that the hotel that you wish to go to has burned down, is flooded, or closed. Don't believe him. Drivers receive commission from hotels for bringing in new guests, and this is one way to trick newcomers to going to these places. Don't get annoyed, but see the exchange as playful banter and part of the Varanasi experience. However, if the driver continuously refuses to follow your instructions, threaten to get out of the rickshaw. If after all this you still end up to a different place, just refuse to pay until you arrive at your hotel. The same procedure will need to be followed when sight seeing, as drivers will inevitably try to take you to handicraft stores, from which they receive commission. If calling for a pickup from a more respectable hostel, be wary that other taxi drivers may listen in to your phone conversation then tell another taxi driver who will pick you up pretending to be your hostel, then take you to a commission charging hostel.

As you approach Manikarnika Ghat, you will be approached by touts posing as cremators or volunteers in a local hospice. These people will explain the cremation process and even lead you to a good viewpoint. They will then take advantage of your emotions by asking you to pay for some wood to burn the body of someone who can't afford it. They will usually insist on receiving ₹500; if you offer less, it will initially be declined. This is a scam. Either tell him you have no money or that you don't feel comfortable donating.

Varanasi is one of the most polluted cities in the world. Many websites show air quality readings taken in the early morning, when pollution is at its lowest. Hourly air quality data is available here . Keep an eye on air quality data and consider wearing a (certified) mask, especially if you are spending an extended period of time in the city.

There is, rather understandably, some resentment at tourists tresspasing up to the cremation ghats for raucous sightseeing at the funeral ceremonies of loved ones. Behave respectfully and do not take photographs of cremations, even from the river. You can take photographs if it is from a distance; most do not mind. There are touts who for a fee will "stop minding". Note that if it is the family that objects then you have to respect it but not if local touts object in the interest of extracting money. Offer the money and if they seem ready to accept, withdraw it and photograph. Call the police if necessary.

Since this city is full of temples you will have to take off your shoes or sandals at every point, so wear flip-flops which are easy to take off.