Bishop Auckland

The medieval bishops of Durham held the status of princes so they needed palatial lodgings. They found the hunting lodge at Auckland more to their liking than their city residence, so they spent 800 years building up the castle here and knocking down whatever the previous fellow had done. They decamped back to Durham in 2012 and the castle was bought by Jonathan Ruffer (b 1951), a banker, lawyer and art collector.

What had been a small market, agricultural and weaving town burgeoned in the late 19th century with the development of the Durham coalfields, with 60 collieries active in the area. There was also quarrying, railways to transport the coal and stone, and foundries for railway engineering. These all collapsed in the late 20th century and the town is trying to relaunch itself as a tourist destination. The castle is centrepiece of that effort and the other big draw is the historical pageant "Kynren".

By road from the south follow A1 past Scotch Corner onto A68 then A6072. From the north leave A1 at Bowburn (Durham services) for A688.

Arriva Bus 1 runs every 30 min from Darlington, taking an hour via Shildon and continuing to Crook; alternate buses carry on to Tow Law.

Bus 5 runs every 30 min from Darlington, taking 90 via Newton Aycliffe, with the last bus towards 11PM.

Bus 6 runs every 20 min from Durham, taking 40 min via Spennymoor and continuing to West Auckland.

Weardale Bus 85 runs five times M-Sa from Barnard Castle, connecting with Bus 95 from Middleton-on-Tees, and taking 50 min via Staindrop, Cockfield and West Auckland.

🌍 Bishop Auckland bus station is just a draughty square a block west of Market Place.

Trains run hourly from Middlesbrough (some starting from Saltburn), taking an hour via Thornaby, Darlington, Newton Aycliffe and Shildon. Change at Darlington for London, Leeds, York, Newcastle and Edinburgh.

🌍 Bishop Auckland railway station is half a mile south of town centre. It has a ticket office and machines, but no waiting room or toilets. There is step-free access to the sole platform.

Bishop Auckland West is the terminus for the heritage Weardale Railway, described below. A 150-yard footpath links it to the mainline station.

Hodgson's Bus 87 runs hourly M-Sa to Escomb (for Saxon church), Witton Park and Toft Hill. Bus 89 makes five extra runs as far as Escomb.

Bus 104 runs six times M-Sa to Binchester (for Roman fort) and Newfield.

Taxi firms in town are Aabat (+44 1388 607607), Cables (+44 1388 602313) and GMC (+44 7935 684022).

Auckland Project (AP) Pass gives you 12 months admission to the Castle, Spanish Gallery, Mining Art Gallery and Tower. In 2024 it's £27 for an adult.

• 🌍 Auckland Castle, Market Place DL14 7NR, ☏ +44 1388 743750. Mar-Dec: W-Su 10:30AM-5PM. The castle was home to the Bishops of Durham from 1183 to 2012, each of whom embellished it in that period's style. The predominant style is Restoration Gothick; highlights are the Throne Room, the 17th-century chapel, and the 13 paintings by Zurbarán in the Long Dining Room. Visit by guided tour. The Faith Museum (included) explores the role of religious faith in history. You can also ascend the modern tower for views, and explore the Walled Garden and deer park. Adult £15, child £7, AP Pass free. (updated Feb 2024)
• Spanish Gallery, Market Place DL14 7JF. Mar-Dec: W-Su 10:30AM-5PM. Impressive collection of 16th- and 17th-century Spanish art from around the county. Adult £12.50, AP Pass free. (updated Feb 2024)
• Mining Art Gallery, Market Place DL14 5NP. Mar-Dec: W-Su 10:30AM-5PM. There was upsurge of art produced by miners in the inter-war years of the 20th century, showcased here. Adult £5, AP Pass free. (updated Feb 2024)
• 🌍 Binchester Roman Fort (Vinovia), Binchester DL14 8DJ, ☏ +44 1388 663089. Apr-Oct: daily 10AM-4:30PM. Vinovia stood astride Dere Street, the Roman road into Scotland, at the point it crossed the River Wear. It was probably built around 79 AD and continuously garrisoned until the Romans abandoned Britain in 410. A civilian settlement grew up around the fort and remained inhabited into early medieval times. The site is more plundered than excavated - masonry and ornaments were purloined by Binchester Hall the nearby farm manor, or used as pit props. What remains includes two bathhouses, the commander's quarters, defensive structures and a section of road. Adult £5, conc £4, child £3. (updated Feb 2024)
• 🌍 Escomb Saxon Church, Escomb DL14 7SY, ☏ +44 1388 602860. One of only four intact Anglo-Saxon churches in England, built maybe 675 AD. Roman inscriptions and workmanship indicate masonry recycled from Vinovia. It's tall and narrow, with room to seat 65, and fell derelict after 1863 when a new parish church was completed. Ironically it was saved by falling church attendance: in 1963 the newer church was in need of major repair and had a dwindling congregation, so that was demolished and the refurbishment was of the Saxon church, which remains active Anglican. (updated Feb 2024)
• 🌍 Locomotion, Dale Road Industrial Estate, Shildon DL4 2RE (3 miles south), ☏ +44 330 058 0058. W-Su 10AM-4PM. Railway museum on the site of the world's first steam-hauled railway. A new locomotive hall is under construction, to open in 2025 for the 200th anniversary of that first train. Donation. (updated Feb 2024)
• 🌍 Raby Castle, Staindrop DL2 3AH (8 miles west on A688), ☏ +44 1833 660202. March-Oct Tu-Su 9AM-5PM. Built in the 14th century, but much prettified in the 17th and 18th centuries in Jacobean style. It has a large art collection and extensive grounds. (updated Feb 2024)

• Theatre is in Town Hall on Market Place.
• Golf: Bishop Auckland GC is on the hillside east of town. White tees 6460 yards, par 72, visitor round £40.
• 🌍 Kynren, Flatts Farm D14 7SF, ☏ +44 333 300 3028. Jul to mid-Sep: Sa evening. Outdoor pageant of British history, on Saturday summer evenings. You pay extra for parking and can't bring your own food. Adult £26, child £16. (updated Feb 2024)
• Weardale Railway, ☏ +44 1388 526203. Apr-Oct. This standard-gauge heritage railway runs for 16 miles between Stanhope and Bishop Auckland West, with stops at Frosterly, Kingfisher Halt, Wolsingham and Witton-le-Wear. Rides are in DMUs (diesel multiple units) with two or three shuttles per working day. Their only steam loco is an 0-6-0 colliery tank engine, under reconstruction. Day ticket adult £16, conc £14, child £8. (updated Feb 2024)

• Newgate Shopping Centre just east of the bus station is hollow, with few stores open in 2024. The multi-story car park remains in use.
• Boyes, 84 Newgate Street DL14 7EQ. M-Sa 9AM-5:30PM, Su 10AM-4PM. This discount store has the homewares and bits and bats that you used to find at Woolworths or Wilco. (updated Feb 2024)
• Morrison's is just north of the railway station, open M-Sa 7AM-9PM, Su 10AM-4PM. The filling station is 24 hours.
• Asda is east across the street from Morrison's, open M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 10AM-4PM.

• Market Place and Bondgate has Chang Thai, El Castillo, Spice Lounge and Knead A Slice.
• Newgate St near the railway station has Manzo (below), The Smokehouse, Gabrielle's and Street Pasta.
• Manzo, 201 Newgate St DL14 7EJ (100 yards north of station), ☏ +44 1388 417371. W Th Su noon-3PM, 5-10PM; F Sa noon-3PM, 5PM-midnight. Great reviews for food, service and ambiance. (updated Feb 2024)

• Market Place and Bondgate has The Merry Monk, The Stanley Jefferson (below), Bay Horse (below) and Lacy's Bar.
• The Stanley Jefferson, 5 Market Place DL14 7NJ (by castle entrance), ☏ +44 1388 452830. Su-Th 8AM-midnight, F Sa 8AM-1AM. JD Wetherspoon with reliable inexpensive food and drink. It's named for Arthur Stanley Jefferson (1890-1965), better known as Stan Laurel the comedy partner of Oliver Hardy; his parents ran the town theatre. (updated Feb 2024)
• The Bay Horse, 39 Fore Bondgate DL14 7PE (block north of bus station), ☏ +44 1388 609 65. Su-Th 11AM-midnight, F Sa 11AM-1AM. Decent drink, but in spite of their sign they don't serve food. (updated Feb 2024)
• Newgate St and south towards the station have Tap & Tun, The Welcome, The Mitre, Cumberland Arms, King's Head and The Green Tree (below).
• The Green Tree, 13 Cockton Hill Rd DL14 6EN (50 yards south of station). M-F 4PM-midnight, Sa Su noon-midnight. Lively pub with beer garden and TV sport. (updated Feb 2024)
• McColl's Brewery is on Randolf Industrial Estate four miles west of town and offers tours.

• 🌍 Park Head Hotel, 13 Park View Terrace, New Coundon DL14 8QB, ☏ +44 1388 661727. Friendly and squeaky-clean country hotel with 38 rooms en suite. B&B double £110. (updated Feb 2024)
• Saxon Inn, 1 Saxon Green, Escomb DL14 7SY (next to Saxon Church), ☏ +44 1388 662256. Charming pub with rooms in Escomb village. Double (room only) £65. (updated Feb 2024)
• 🌍 Gables Pod Camping, Three Lane Ends, Escomb DL14 7SR, ☏ +44 7901 708889. Three pods and a cottage all sleeping two adults only, min stay two nights. Pod B&B double £130. (updated Feb 2024)
• 🌍 Premier Inn, West Auckland Rd DL14 9AP (within retail park), ☏ +44 333 777 3916. Budget chain, usually reliable. B&B double £120. (updated Feb 2024)
• 🌍 Manor House Hotel, Front St, West Auckland DL14 9HW, ☏ +44 1388 834834. Pleasant hotel and spa on the village green. B&B double £100. (updated Feb 2024)

As of Feb 2024, Bishop Auckland and its approach roads have 4G from EE and Vodafone, and 5G from O2 and Three.

• Durham 11 miles north has an outstanding old town, with castle and cathedral perched on a peninsula.
• Shildon 4 miles south has Locomotion Railway Museum.
• Barnard Castle 15 miles southwest has a scenic crumbling castle and the ostentatious Bowes Museum.