Bonavista

Bonavista is where modern North America began. On June 24th 1497, Giovani Caboto (John Cabot), an Italian explorer sailing under the British flag for King Henry VII, made landfall in the New World. "O Buona Vista," meaning "Oh Happy Sight," he was said to exclaim after nearly two months at sea. News of the existence of this New Found Land—and the riches of the Grand Bank fishery—spread throughout Europe after Cabot's return journey across the Atlantic.

In the last decade of the 19th century, Bonavista was a booming town that serviced the 20,000 people living on the peninsula. Long a regional centre for the cod fishing industry, the closure of the fishery in 1992 saw Bonavista's population of approximately 6,500 cut in half to its present population of 3,500.

Today Bonavista is experiencing a resurgence thanks to a sustainable snow crab fishery and a booming tourism sector. It is home to some of the friendliest folk in Newfoundland, and boasts several of the province's most important historic sites. Be prepared to get engaged in long and wide-ranging conversations. As tourism is a major industry, and wanes during the winter, many businesses are closed November–April, or longer. But in July and August, things are in full swing.

Many visitors travel to Newfoundland via the ferry from North Sydney, Nova Scotia to either the Town of Port aux Basques on Newfoundland's southwest coast, or to the terminus in Argentia (Seasonal) near St John's. You can also travel here via a number of international airlines which travel to St. John's International Airport, or a few regional airlines that fly to Gander.

Bonavista is a pedestrian's delight. The gentle topography is appealing but it is the rich cultural landscape which makes for enjoyable walking in the community.

There is a complex network of roads and laneways connecting the central area of the town known as the Harbour and Church Street to various sections of the community bearing age old names such as Canaille, Mockbeggar, Rolling Cove, Red Point, Bayley's Cove and Bakeapple Marsh. This all makes Bonavista a superb place to wander.

As the topography is relatively flat, traffic is light, drivers are courteous, and even more distant sites are seldom more than a few kilometres apart, travel by bicycle is also pleasant.

• Bonavista is noted for the authenticity of its 19th-century (and earlier, and later) outport architecture. Check out the historic churches: Memorial United Church (completed 1923; 37 Church St) and St Joseph's Catholic Church (Completed 1842; 5 Sweeneys Ln) continue to offer regular religious services, while Alexander for All Souls Mortuary Chapel (completed 1897; 70 Coster St E) can sometimes be visited as a historic site. Civil society buildings include the Orange Hall (1907; 14 Sweetland's Hill), which once had the largest membership of loyal Orangemen in Canada; Court House (1900; 1 Church St), still featuring whipping post, stocks, and a cannon from World War I; the Garrick Theatre (opened 1945), which often hosts a cinema or live entertainment; and wooden Fishing Flakes, raised wooden platforms located throughout town, which were once used to store and dry salt cod.

• 🌍 Cape Bonavista Lighthouse (Keep going north!). 9:30AM–5PM. One of Bonavista's top draws and Newfoundland's most photographed sites, the historic lighthouse includes an interpretive museum and is one of very few historic lighthouses in the world that permit entry. Your entry ticket also includes entry to the Mockbeggar Plantation. Access to the site is free, and includes a network of trails, excellent views, free binocular podiums, parking, and (in season) a puffin colony that is visible at dawn and dusk. Adults $6, seniors $4, children age 5-15 $3, children under 5 free. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Mockbegger Plantation, Roper St (Overlooking the water to the north-west of the centre), ☏ +1 709 468-7444. 9:30AM–5PM mid-May to Mid-Oct. Knowledgeable staff give tours of the family home of Newfoundland's first Canadian Senator, restored to the 1940s period. Features a stunning library/chapel. Often hosts events in summer. Entry includes/included with Lighthouse. (updated Jun 2017)

• 🌍 Ryan Premises, 10 Ryans Hill Rd (The ticket office is the left one of the two road-facing structures marked "shop."). 10AM–6PM seasonally. A National Historic Site managed by Parks Canada, the premises are a series of 19th-century buildings that once lodged the Ryan family and their cod businesses facilities. Now features a series of well presented museums and art displays. Free in 2017 in celebration of Canada 150. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Matthew Legacy, Roper St (The huge blue building right on the inner harbour), ☏ +1 709 468-1493. 9:30AM–5PM. This building houses a small and text-heavy narrative museum about the era of Cabot's voyage, and a replica of his original ship (named Matthew) built in 1997 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Cabot's landing. While you can board the ship, due to maintenance issues, it is permanently in dry dock. Adults $7.25, concessions available. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Home from the Sea (John Crosbie Sealers Interpretation Centre), 5863 Main St, Elliston (Across the street from a church and sports centre), ☏ +1 709 476-3003. May-Oct 9AM–5:30PM. A modern multimedia museum about the realities of the early seal hunt, plus commemoration of local men who died in the hunt, and a large gallery of 20th century seal-hunt paintings. Adults $7, seniors $5, students $5. (updated Jun 2017)

Most visitors to Bonavista come for the scenery, the cultural history, and the chance to view rare North Atlantic wildlife:

• Iceberg season begins as the arctic sea ice melts, and winds and currents blow broken glacier chunks south along the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts. Since Bonavista is a north-facing town on a long peninsula, icebergs are easily trapped in its vicinity. At peak iceberg season in May and June, dozens of icebergs can be spotted from shore or from nearly any scenic viewpoint (see below).
• Puffins can be found all along the coast, though they are elusive. A marine bird, they only come to shore to breed and raise their young, which they do in earthen burrows. This tends to take place between roughly mid-April and mid-August. Because they also go back to sea to fish, the best time to spot them on the Bonavista cape is in the evenings, beginning a few hours before sunset, when they come back to feed their young and rest.

Most local restaurants are only open during the summer tourist season.

• 🌍 Boreal, 61 Church St (A few blocks north of the bridge in the centre of town), ☏ +1 709 476-2330. M-Sa noon-10PM, Su 10AM–3PM. The closest thing to "fine dining" in Bonavista, and what foodies would declare its best restaurant, Boreal opened in 2016 with a rotating small weekly menu of locally-inspired international dishes. $12-20 for mains. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Skipper's, 42 Campbell St (At the main level of the Harbour Quarters Inn), toll-free: +1-866-468-7982. 7AM–9PM daily during peak season, less in shoulder seasons, closed Jan–May. An inoffensive hotel restaurant with a good view of the inner harbour. Serves standard Canadian offerings (sandwiches, pasta, etc.) and a few Newfoundland dishes as well. Has a full bar. $10-18 for mains. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 PK's Dining Room and Take-Out, 89 Church St (A few blocks north from the bridge at the centre of town), ☏ +1 709 468-2828. A classic Newfoundland diner with a tasteful adjoining dining room. PK's has a broad menu but specializes in seafood. $8-15 for mains. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Baie Vista, 11 Campbell St (At the main intersection, where the road into town reaches the harbour), ☏ +1 709 468-5600. A classic rural Canadian breakfast diner, which also serves lunch and dinner. Popular with seniors. Coffee is cheap and weak. Hearty food, big portions, efficient service. Shares a building with Greco's Pizza. $6-14 for mains. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Little Dairy King, Cape Shore Rd (Near the turn-off for The Dungeon), ☏ +1 709 468-2820. Beautifully located on the cape, it serves a wide variety of good freshly prepared food, plus take-away ice cream. Mains $6-15. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Sweet Rock Ice Cream, 102 Church St (The last shop on the main strip north of the bridge at town centre), ☏ +1 709 476-2333. An Ontario couple have settled in Newfoundland and opened this fresh and delicious ice cream parlour, specializing in local flavours. They also sell chocolates from their shop in nearby Trinity. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Moreish Cupcake Bakery, 77 Church St (Across from Shannon's Pub), ☏ +1 709 476-2440, +1 709 727-8545. Tu–Sa 11AM–7PM, Su noon–6PM. The locals have a sweet tooth, so much so that Moreish might be the only place they're willing to queue. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Nanny's Root Cellar Kitchen, 77 Main St, Elliston. Set inside Elliston's 19th-century Loyal Orange Lodge, Nanny's serves up classic Newfoundland dishes in big portions. A good place to try fried cod's tongue. Mains $10-16. (updated Jun 2017)
• 🌍 Marsh's Snack Bar, 62 Church St, ☏ +1 709 468-2639. Serves pizza. (updated Jun 2018)
• Greco Pizza, 11 Campbell St. A pizza place. (updated Jun 2018)

There are a number of hotels and B&Bs in Bonavista, in addition to a wide selection of vacation rental properties.

Cellular service is provided by Telus/Bell and their subsidiaries and network users (including Virgin, Koodo, PC Mobile, and Public Mobile). SIM cards are available at the Bell distributor, Custom Computer Centre (23 Church St). Rogers and its subsidiaries and network users (including Fido, Chatr, and 7/11 Speakout) do not have service in the Bonavista Peninsula region.

WiFi is available for customers at many restaurants and hotels.

Scotiabank (64 Church St, Bonavista) is the only bank in the area, but there are also ATMs at Walkhams Pub, Irving Gas Station, and Bonavista Convenience.

There is a full-service Canada Post in the centre of town.

• Explore Trinity and other areas of the Bonavista Peninsula
• Terra Nova National Park
• St. John's
• Twillingate
• Gander
• Saint Pierre and Miquelon