Boston/North End

The draw of the North End was evident even to the first Puritan colonists, when powerful minister Increase Mather made this neighborhood his home. This area shared fortunes with Beacon Hill, and people from all walks of life came together to live and worship. The Old North Church was put up in 1723, the oldest church in Boston still standing. As the years wore on, the English and free Blacks living here would be pushed out by a wave of Irish immigrants who arrived in great numbers. Stately mansions were converted into tenements, and living conditions deteriorated. By the mid 19th century, the North End developed something of an unsavory reputation, a red-light district along what is today North Street being chiefly responsible.

By the 1880s the Irish had decamped, and the North End became dominated by Jewish and especially Italian immigrants. These families would barter trade skills to one another, slowly repairing and replacing the area's dilapidated housing stock with what you will see here today. A poorly considered expressway project constructed in the 1950s cut this neighborhood off from the rest of Boston. Although this did have the beneficial effect of strengthening already close community connections, and family owned businesses continued to thrive.

When the ugly expressway was removed in 2007 by the Big Dig, a hulking metal barrier was replaced by a welcoming green garden, and the North End was united with the rest of the city once more. This connective parkland invites visitors from around the globe to explore the narrow brick streets, historical highlights, and unparalleled Italian dining that make the North End such a unique destination.

Once simply a small bay and mill pond to early colonists, the West End is another of Boston's neighborhoods built on reclaimed land. After the American revolution, the pond had turned into something of a convenient—although increasingly stinky—garbage dump. By the dawn of the 19th century it was decided to use the earth from one of Beacon Hill's three original hills to fill the pond in.

The creation of this new neighborhood quickly relieved pressure on the town's overcrowded housing stock. Some of the areas first residents would be African American, joining friends and family living nearby on Beacon Hill's north slope. This was one of the few places in the United States where African Americans had a political voice before the Civil War. In the coming years they would be joined by immigrants arriving from across Europe, Russia, and the Middle East.

By the 1950s the once overcrowded area was in the process of "de-slumming" along with the North End. It wasn't perfect, but small shops were still in business and many families still considered it a fine place to live. A city plan to "redevelop" the area was overwhelmingly opposed by residents during a meeting in late 1957. Their pleas fell on deaf ears, however, and eviction notices were handed out a few months later. The following year, a majority of the West End would be razed to the ground.

Today a vibrancy is slowly returning to the remaining pockets of what once was. It will never again feel like a sister to the North End, but as the tall buildings of glass and steel take the place of 50s era parking lots, the West End stands ready to turn the page and write its next chapter.

The North and West End are of similar size and can be traversed in around 15-20 minutes, so walking is usually going to be your best option. The easiest way to get to the North End is to follow the Freedom Trail from downtown Boston; follow the crowd across the Greenway and you're there. For the West End, turn left as the Greenway ends and the Charlestown bridge looms.

By far the largest station in the area is North Station. Not only is this a major stop on the Orange and Green lines, four Commuter Rail lines and the Amtrak train to Maine depart from here as well. See Boston by train for more information. While covered more in depth in the downtown article, Haymarket on the Orange and Green lines can be a very useful station for the visitor. Accessible by Green line tracks; Science Park is the station you want if you're visiting the Science Museum. If you're going to be on the Blue line anyway, Aquarium or Bowdoin stations may also prove useful to you.

Here are two more neighborhoods where driving is a terrible idea. The North End in particular has streets so narrow they barely accommodate pedestrians, much less automobiles. When visitors aren't clogging up the thoroughfares in summer, the snow picks up that slack in wintertime. There are a few (expensive) parking garages in the West End and downtown if you're determined to go that route. A few businesses in this area may provide valet parking, but call ahead to ensure a spot and don't expect it to come gratis.

• 🌍 Museum of Science, 1 Science Park (T: Science Park), ☏ +1 617 723-2500. 9AM-5PM daily (Summer until 7PM). The Museum of Science is colossal—easily one of the biggest in North America. It has IMAX theaters, 3D theaters, and a separate planetarium. The museum not only has an enormous permanent collection spanning several stories, but it has the largest Van de Graff generator in the world, which produces frequent electricity shows, a weather generator, many multimedia presentation areas, and at least 2 temporary exhibitions at any given time. A few exhibits remain that were designed by Charles and Ray Eames, but they are showing their age. The roster of events changes daily, and is distributed upon entry. It's worth a visit as long as you are all right with the possibility of getting a migraine. Adults $25, seniors $21, children $20. Plus another $8-10 for the Omni Theater and Planetarium. (updated Feb 2017)
• 🌍 Otis House (Historic New England), 141 Cambridge St (T: Bowdoin), ☏ +1 617 994-5920. F-Su 11AM-4:30PM, Mar-Nov W-Su 11AM-4:30PM. $10, $5 students. (updated Nov 2016)
• 🌍 West End Museum, 150 Staniford St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 723-2125. Tu-Th noon-5PM, F 1PM-5PM, Sa 11AM-4PM. Free. (updated Nov 2016)

• The Freedom Trail — A major tourist draw of significant historical sites in Boston. These 17 locations spread over two and a half miles are crucial to understanding revolutionary era America. A few are located here.

Throughout the summer there rarely is a dull moment in the North End. There is seemingly a different Italian festival every weekend, often thematically based on Catholic saints.

• Saint Anthony’s Feast (Festival of Santa Lucia): The weekend of the last Sunday of August (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617-723-8669. One of Boston’s largest events of the summer, Saint Anthony’s Feast offers colorful parades, strolling singers, the Filippo Berio Culinary Pavilion, Italian folk dancing, an open air piazza, continuous live entertainment, and religious and cultural services throughout the weekend. Hundreds of pushcarts line decorated streets, calling visitors to sample an array of traditional Italian foods including calamari, quahogs, pasta, cannoli, zeppole, handmade torrone and gelato. Children of all ages can try their luck at games of skill, or enjoy pony rides and other small amusements. The festivities are capped off during the Grand Procession of Saint Anthony, which begins at Noon on Sunday. A statue of Saint Anthony is borne on the shoulders of church members and devotees through the winding streets of the North End. Accompanied by marching bands, drum & bugle corps, color guards, floats and hundreds of followers. The procession culminates with the return of the Statue of Saint Anthony to Endicott Street as confetti, streamers and balloons cascade from the rooftops. Free.

• 🌍 Galleria Umberto, 289 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 227-5709. M-Sa 11AM-3PM. A feeling of the old neighborhood lingers. Open only for lunch, this often-overlooked North End spot not only serves up fantastic Sicilian specialties, it's one of the cheapest places to eat lunch citywide. Locals in the know form a queue in front of the counter that can spill out the front door. There are plenty of tables inside, but they can become quickly overwhelmed during tourist season. $1.50 a slice. Cash only. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Mike's Pastry, 300 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 742-3050. Su-Th 8AM-10:30PM, F Sa 11:30PM. Mike’s pastry is the tourist hotspot in the North End. You will have undoubtedly seen their distinctive string wrapped boxes before you arrive. Customers wait patiently in long lines out the door, and down the block to get their hands on these prized sweets. Mike's specializes in Italian pastries like cannoli and napoleons alongside a few other offerings: gelato, cakes, and biscotti. In addition, the pastry shop offers to customize your cakes for any event. If you don’t feel like eating dessert, try their fabulous hot beverages like espresso or cappuccino. There are places to sit inside, but the shop is mostly a take-out style establishment. Cash only. $2-6 per item. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Modern Pastry, 257 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 523-3783. Su-Th 8AM-10PM, F 8AM-11PM, Sa 8AM-midnight. Modern pastry is a seventy-year-old family run business that is one of the most popular bakeries in the North End. Narrowly piped in popularity by Mike's, but not by quality. Only you can judge who has the best cannoli. If you go here, be prepared to wait. If you manage to score a table, relax and soak in the atmosphere and great people-watching views. Modern pastry presents a wide variety of fresh Italian pastries like cannoli (which are made upon order), cakes, chocolate ganache, and torrone. But that’s not all, they also sell imported Italian goods like pasta, olive oil, fresh breads, coffee beans, and Nutella. Cash only. $2-6 per item. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Osteria Rustico, 85 Canal St (T: North Station), ☏ +1 617 742-8770. M-F 7AM-7PM. There are only six tables and the menu is not very extensive, however the exceptional food makes up for this. For lunch, be sure to try the house salad "the Casalinga" with grilled chicken. For dinner, the seafood pasta is out of this world. Starters $4-8, mains $8-10. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Monica's Mercato, 130 Salem St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 742-4101. 9AM-11PM daily. Some of the best sandwiches and artisanal treats in the city. Sandwiches $8-12. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Pizzeria Regina, 11½ Thatcher St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 227-0765. 11AM-11:30PM daily. This location of the small pizzeria chain is where it all began in 1926. Boisterous and loud with being cacophonous, the closely packed tables here feel friendly and not uncomfortable. It's one of the few spots in the North End where locals and tourists both go for a pie. Pitchers of beer available. Expect to wait outside in line during peak hours, the line moves fast but not quite as fast as you want. The other locations of this franchise are forgettable, but don't make the mistake of lumping this one in with the rest. Cash only. Small pizza $12-13, large $21. (updated Mar 2017)

• 🌍 Boston Sail Loft, 80 Atlantic Ave (T: Aquarium), ☏ +1 617 227-7280. 11:30AM-2AM daily. Great seafood at reasonable prices with harbor views? The secret is out, so go at off hours for the best seats. It gets busy, but actually doesn't get as crowded as you might expect. Waits to be seated here are unusual, as a more tourist-focused restaurant next door is perfectly positioned to absorb the masses. Starters $6-12, mains $10-16. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Giacomo's, 355 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 523-9026. M-Th noon-10PM, F-Sa noon-10:30PM, Su noon-10PM. Legendary but tiny Italian place that's always a great value. It's one of the more popular restaurants in the North End, but they don't take reservations, so expect a long line out the door and down the street. They only accept cash, but there is an ATM across the street if you forget. Starters $6-12, mains $16-20. (updated May 2021)
• 🌍 Al Dente Ristorante, 109 Salem St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617-523-0990. Su-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F-Sa 11:30AM-11PM. This Italian gem has an amazing selection. Choose from about a dozen homemade pasta and sauce types. The tangy vodka sauce is truly excellent. Sop up any remaining sauce with fresh bread, and wash everything down with a cold Peroni beer. Starters $9-12, mains $15-20. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Antico Forno, 93 Salem St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 723-6733. Su-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F-Sa 11:30AM-10:30PM. This busy little restaurant has a great atmosphere and good service. Dim lighting gives it a romantic setting with brick walls and a fireplace in the center of the dining room. This restaurant makes their own pasta and sauce from scratch. A good majority of the large menu includes pasta and seafood dishes, as well as pizzas fired in the aforementioned oven. Starters $8-16, mains $14-24. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Daily Catch, 323 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 523-8567. 11:30AM-9:30PM daily. Of the four, this is the original location. With only 20 seats, it's not the biggest place but great for fresh seafood. Starters $8-16, mains $18-21. (updated Mar 2017)

• 🌍 Lucia, 415 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617-367-2353. daily until 11PM. This restaurant is rather large, just like the menu. Unlike other ristorantes in this area, Lucia offers an excellent selection of cheese. Just like restaurants in Italy, each page of the menu is dedicated to one category of food like salad, seafood, chicken, or pasta. The menu says all dishes are made to order and to allow the chef ample time to prepare the dish. Valet parking is available. Starters $9-19, mains $18-29. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Maurizio's, 364 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 367-1123. M-F 5PM-10PM, Sa noon-10:30PM, Su 4PM-10PM. Maurizio's, top rated in the Zagat Guide and three time winner of Boston Magazine's Best of Boston Award, has been part of the North End dining experience since 1993. Chef Maurizio Loddo hails from the Italian Island of Sardinia and brings a wealth of additional cooking experience from France, Germany and Spain. Wines from Maurizio's exciting list are selected to complement the food. You will find exceptional and affordable picks from all over the globe. Starters $9-12, mains $19-25, bottles of wine around $30. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Rabia’s Ristorante, 73 Salem St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 227-6637. 11AM-10:30PM daily. Rabia’s has a creative and unique atmosphere with romantic dim lighting. Grapes and grape vines (which look very real) dangle and weave around trellises attached to the ceiling. If you are craving seafood, this is the place to go. The menu is heavily focused on all kinds of seafood, including items straight from their raw bar. The menu also has a large assortment of meats and pasta dishes. Starters $7-20, mains $18-30. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Florentine Cafe, 333 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 227-1777. Noon-midnight daily. The Florentine Cafe is known for their superior food and as one of the oldest bars in Boston. Nice ambiance, looks European. Windows open wide to the street in warm weather, just as cafes do in London. Big, friendly after work crowd at the ample bar. The menu presents a wide range of specialties from pasta to racks of lamb. Full meal will be around $35. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Dolce Vita Ristorante, 221 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 720-0422. M-W 4PM-10PM, Th-Su 1PM-10PM. Dolce Vita was featured in the Improper Bostonian and Traveler’s Journal for its great food, served in a comfortable and open atmosphere. When the weather is nice, the windows open out to the street. A unique appetizer on the menu is a fresh fruit platter. This restaurant specializes in all kinds of meat like veal, lamb, chicken, and sirloin steaks. Starters $5-15, mains $17-34. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Neptune Oyster, 63 Salem St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 742-3474. Su-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F-Sa 11:30AM-11PM. Excellent local seafood and raw bar. Restaurant is small but ambiance and food quality are extraordinary. On any given weekend, you will find people lining up outside the front door before they open in order to secure one of their famous lobster rolls. At $29 they don't come cheap, but almost every publication in the city has awarded these lobster rolls with a "best of" designation. Starters $12-market price, mains $28-market price. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Taranta, 210 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 720-0052. 5:30PM-10PM daily. Chef Jose Duarte brings a fusion of Peruvian and Italian in his Certified Green restaurant. The wine list consists of organic, sustainable, or biodynamic wines only. Excellent food quality and great service. Starters $15-17, mains $24-36. (updated Mar 2017)

• 🌍 Caffé Vittoria, 296 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 227-7606. Su-Th 7AM-midnight, F-Sa 7AM-12:30AM. In 2006 The Phantom Gourmet gave Caffé Vittoria a ‘Great Ate’ award. This place has many awards including ‘City’s Best Coffee House’ from City Guide in 2005. Caffé Vittoria sells cannolis, tiramisu, éclairs, and over ten flavors of gelato. They have an extensive drink menu including their signature martinis and specialty drinks. The café has a cigar lounge and hookah bar in the basement with a casual laid-back atmosphere. Cash only. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Thinking Cup, 236 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 857 233-5277. M-W 7AM-10PM, Th-Su 7AM-11PM. North End outpost of this Boston mini-chain. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Caffe Paradiso, 255 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 742-1768. 7AM-2AM daily. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Caffe Dello Sport, 308 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 523-5063. 6AM-midnight daily. (updated Mar 2017)

• 🌍 Mariners House, 11 North Square (Tː Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 227-3979. Built as a boarding house for sailors in 1847, it remains an inexpensive hotel only for active and retired members of the merchant marines and afloat military personnel. $65-110. (updated Mar 2018)

• 🌍 Kimpton Onyx, 155 Portland St (T: North Station), ☏ +1 617 557-9955, toll-free: +1 866 660-6699. New construction boutique hotel with every modern convenience. Handicap accessible. From $200. (updated May 2017)
• 🌍 Wyndham Boston Beacon Hill, 5 Blossom St (T: Charles/MGH or Bowdoin), ☏ +1 617 742-7630. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. Good location at the foot of Beacon Hill. Near Massachusetts General Hospital and Whole Foods. Has a pool and free wi-fi. From $239. (updated May 2017)
• 🌍 The Boxer Boston, 107 Merrimac St (T: North Station), ☏ +1 617 624-0202. Awarded "Best of Boston 2016" in a Boston Magazine reader's poll. From $239. (updated May 2017)
• 🌍 Battery Wharf Hotel Boston Waterfront, 3 Battery Wharf (T: North Station), ☏ +1 617 994-9000. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. Great harbor views. From $249. (updated Mar 2017)
• 🌍 Holiday Inn Express Boston Garden, 280 Friend St (T: North Station), ☏ +1 617 720-5544. From $440. (updated Jun 2017)

• 🌍 Liberty Hotel, 215 Charles St (T: Charles-MGH), ☏ +1 617 224-4000. Located in the Beacon Hill neighborhood by the Charles River and its Esplanade. On a bizarre side note, the hotel occupies a former prison that once held former mayor James Michael Curley (imprisoned in 1904 for fraud), Frank Abagnale, Jr. (portrayed by Leonardo DiCaprio in Catch Me If You Can) and a Nazi U-Boat captain captured in 1945 who later committed suicide. From $309. (updated May 2017)
• 🌍 The Boston Yachat Haven Inn & Marina, 87 Commercial Wharf (T: Aquarium), ☏ +1 617-367-5050. If you like waking up to water views, this is the place for you! Summer: $350, winter: $300. (updated May 2017)
• 🌍 Bricco Suites, 241 Hanover St (T: Haymarket), ☏ +1 617 459-1293. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Fully furnished extended stay luxury accommodations. So high end rooms even come with their own butler. Right on the main drag in the North End. From $335. (updated May 2017)