Bouzigues

Bouzigues is on the north side of a large tidal salt water lagoon called the Étang de Thau, which extends 5 km south to the Mediterranean Sea. The sea water flows freely into the lagoon, fish and boats can come and go as they please, and the lagoon's shoreline is tidal. However, the étang is sheltered from the worst of the winter storms, and Bouzigues still enjoys the atmosphere of a traditional fishing port and the sunny and warm climate that draws so many to the south of France. The urban core is a dense medieval old town, with narrow streets and warmly pastel-coloured houses of two and three storeys, while further out are a few streets of modern villas. At the west end of the seafront are the shellfish industry's warehouses and stores, and at the other end, the cute little harbour. From here, you can gaze over miles of oyster beds across to the distant holiday complexes of Sète and Marseillan, while the Mediterranean scrub behind is scattered with vineyards and the odd olive grove.

The town's portentous title of oyster capital of France (capitale de l'huître) belies the fact that Bouzigues is for most of the day a small, sleepy community, with only around 1,700 residents. It only really comes alive just before lunchtime, when busloads of hungry travellers arrive to promenade up and down the waterfront in search of the perfect fruits de mer. Then, between 12:00 and 14:00, each restaurant is packed with people chowing down on oysters, mussels, razor-clams, prawns, sea bass and red mullet. Lunch service over, visitors gradually disperse, and Bouzigues drifts comfortably back into its peaceful ways. With the crowds gone, you can soak up sun on its two beautiful beaches, wander its shady medieval backstreets and keep track of the comings and goings of the marina - if not in solitude, at least with the feeling you are privy to a cleverly-guarded secret.

The name "Bouzigues" comes from the Occitan Bosigas, which means "fallow land" or "wasteland". Indeed, the area's early settlers seemed to live entirely from fishing and gathering wild fruits, and therefore did not need to cultivate their land. These fisherfolk were troglodytes - meaning they lived in caves hewn from the soft calcareous rock by winter and in tents by summer. Historians estimate the caves as being where the row of restaurants now stands on the seafront promenade, and indeed some of the buildings there are still troglodytic. Although cultivation wouldn't happen for centuries, oysters had been a major part of the local diet since the time of the Phoenicians, enjoyed alongside many of the same natural delicacies you can sample today.

The first vineyards were planted in the 15th century, but the bulk of Bouzigues' inhabitants remained fishermen. Nonetheless, by 1670, trade had increased to such a level that the town needed its own port rather than using that of Sète. The local baron, Timothée de Geoffroy, rented out a parcel of land to the town for the creation of a port, charging the generous rent of two hens per annum! The admittedly modest harbour was constructed as a whole town endeavour, with wealthier citizens providing building materials and the cattle to pull wagons and keep everyone fed, and the poorer inhabitants working as labourers. This port was sited not in the current location, but at what is now place du Général de Gaulle. The 21st century visitor will still notice the square is on two levels; the raised platform was the original quayside. The 100 metres or so of town to the south was reclaimed from the étang in 1820, and the port moved to its current site.

Surprisingly, oyster and mussel farming was only pioneered at the turn of the 20th century, and then only as a tentative, and at that time utterly unique, small-scale attempt for fishermen to have a more dependable catch. The only other way to get oysters, clams and coquilles Saint-Jacques was to dive up to eight metres below the surface, with no scuba gear of course. After the Second World War, the marine farming industry took off and most fishermen switched professions until the shellfish farms were at the scale you see today. The Bouzigues method of oyster and mussel culture, growing the shellfish on ropes suspended below the water, has since been copied all over the world.

The Musée de l'Étang de Thau has a small 🌍 tourist information centre with English spoken and plenty of brochures and discounts for attractions in the region, so make sure you pop in near the start of your visit. The main Office de Tourisme for the area is in Mèze, by the marina.

The busy D613 is a local link road from junction 33 of the A9 autoroute, the main coastal motorway linking to Montpellier, Nîmes and beyond to the east and Béziers, Narbonne and other points south and west. Daytrippers should consider arriving early, as parking spaces are limited and fill up fast as midday approaches. The main 🌍 car park is free to use and serves the harbour and museum. On-street parking is possible, but not encouraged.

There is a designated 🌍 campervan parking area on chemin de la Catonnière, just off the roundabout labelled Bouzigues - ouest. This is the third exit for Bouzigues when coming from the A9, or the first when coming from Mèze. This parking area is about 15 minutes' walk from the town centre.

Hérault Transport buses link Bouzigues several times a day to nearby towns and cities, and are excellent value for money with single fares as low as €1.60 for an adult, or €2.60 with a Montpellier tram ride included (Dec 2020). Two buses from Montpellier leave from suburban stations on the city's excellent tram network; the 603 leaves from Saint-Jean-de-Védas (tram line 2), and the 604 leaves from Sabines (also line 2). For Bouzigues, they stop at 🌍 La Clavade (by a roundabout on the main D613 bypass). The only pitfall is that this is around a 1 km walk outside of Bouzigues; the town is easy to find, but the distance is not really convenient for people with limited mobility.

With the étang being linked to the open sea at Sète and the start of the Canal du Midi at Marseillan, Bouzigues is a popular stopping point for touring boats, although like with parking, space is limited to about 10 of the typical boats used on the canal.

• 🌍 Harbour master (Capitainerie), ☏ +33 4 67 53 39 84. May–Sep 09:00–12:00, 14:30–19:00; Oct–Apr 09:00–12:00, 15:00–17:00). Upon arrival present yourself to the harbour master where you should pay port fees and taxes. 

While the direct railway line to Bouzigues is long gone, its route is not, and there is still a very high quality green way cycle track (voie verte piste cyclable) running parallel along the coast from Balaruc-les-Bains and Balaruc-le-Vieux, through Bouzigues, and then onwards to Loupian and Mèze. The track links to other routes at both its ends, so could feasibly be used as part of a bike tour of the wider area.

It couldn't be easier to get out onto the water. There is no fee to enter, navigate, or fish in the Étang de Thau, as it is legally part of the sea. A boat is a great vantage point from which to watch aquatic birdlife, and the pleasant climate and calm, sheltered waters make it a joy to explore. At an average depth of only 4 m, it is also a relatively safe and easy place to swim and snorkel off-shore.

There are, however, some important rules you need to follow, in order to help protect the étang's fragile environment and respect the livelihoods of those who depend on it. Just like on the road, there are maximum speeds which must be observed and areas which are off-limits. In general, the étang's speed limit is 25 knots (46 km/h; 29 mph), however within 300 m of the shoreline and 100 m of the shellfish farms, this is reduced to 5 knots (9.3 km/h; 5.8 mph). You may not pilot a boat into the shellfish farms; the only legal way to access the farms is to take a guided tour. Be mindful of your impact on nature: it is illegal to dump used water, chemicals, or human waste into the étang, and it is recommended that you carry any belongings in heavy bags or boxes, as plastic bags can all too easily blow away. Further information can be obtained from the local government's website.

Fishing is also heavily regulated: it is illegal to fish certain species, and for others there are quotas and minimum sizes. You must throw back any fish which exceed your personal quota or which are too small. The government has published a document (in French) detailing all of the laws, bylaws and recommendations which apply to marine fishing in Hérault. You must ensure you read and understand it, with the help of a translator if necessary, as ignorance of the law - even when there is a language barrier - is not a defence.

• 🌍 Guided pleasure boat trips (Bateau-promenade Bleu Marin) (embark at the very end of the pleasure marina's main jetty), ☏ +33 6 03 31 44 90. Daily departures Apr–Oct times: Apr, Octː 15ː00; May, Jun, Sepː 11ː00, 14ː30, 16ː00; Jul–Aug: 11ː00, 14ː30, 16ː00, 17ː30. Group reservation only Nov–Mar. The visit lasts approximately 1 hour. Hop aboard the Bleu Marin for a guided visit to the oyster and mussel beds, including a chance to see the shellfish at various stages of their life cycle as they grow on underwater ropes from larvae to harvest. The commentary is very comprehensive and peppered with banter, though unfortunately is only conducted in French. However, the chatty crew of two warmly welcome English-speaking passengers and provide sheets to read which give a rough summary of the commentary. Adults €12, children aged 3-16ː €8. (updated Dec 2020)
• 🌍 Hire a motor boat (Sinaué), 180 chemin du Mas d'Argent, ☏ +33 6 14 87 68 87. 1 May–30 June: M by appointment only, Tu–F 10:00–12:00/14:00–17:00, Sa Su 10:00–17:00; 1 July–31 Aug: M–F 10:30–12:30/13:30–18:00, Sa Su 10:00–18:00; 1 Sept–31 Oct Tu–Su 14:00–17:00, other times by appointment only. Environmentally-friendly and silent electric boats which you can rent without a permit, and take for a day's fishing, sightseeing or offshore swimming. The company train you in navigation and safety before letting you loose, and can recommend itineraries upon request. Wheelchair-accessible boat available by reservation. Contact the company to confirm operation and prices. (updated Dec 2020)

For somewhere that only barely qualifies as a town, Bouzigues has a rather full events calendar. The complete list can be found, in French, on the municipal website, but here are the highlights:

• Bouzigues Carnival (Carnaval de Bouziges). 6 April 2019. A procession of costumed performers and floats accompanies the effigy of "Monsieur Carnaval" through the streets to the 🌍 belvedere above the harbour, where he is burnt at the setting of the sun. Join the townspeople for a costumed ball in the 🌍 Espace Fringadelle that same evening. Free. (updated Apr 2019)
• Flea markets (Brocantes de Bouzigues). 22 April, 10 June, 15 Aug 08:00–18:00. Three times a year, stalls selling furniture, linen and all sorts of trinkets turn up to line the seafront. Most of it may be worthless, if harmless, bric-a-brac, but you never know when you might stumble across a gem... Free. (updated Apr 2019)
• Feast of Saint Peter (Fête de Saint-Pierre). 30 June 2019. This festival of the patron saint of those lost at sea begins with mass in the parish church, and continues with a procession of local children dressed in traditional Languedocian costume to the harbour. Here, boats are blessed by the priest and a jet of water is fired in salute. At nightfall, a small boat on the harbour wall is ceremonially set on fire. Free. (updated Apr 2019)
• Bastille Day (Fête Nationale). 13–14 July 2019. Though national celebrations occur on 14 July, Bouzigues is typical of small towns in conducting its major festivities the evening before. Expect a torchlit procession, patriotic fireworks, and a public ball on the belvedere, with food, drinks, music and dancing, to last late into the night. Most people spend the 14th en famille, with some choosing to stay at home, perhaps tuning into the televised military parade in Paris, or else attending the regional celebrations in Montpellier. In Bouzigues, the town council puts on family-friendly games and activities at the port all afternoon. (updated Apr 2019)
• Feast of Saint James (Fête de Saint-Jacques). 26–28 July 2019. Celebrating Bouzigues' patron saint, the main event takes place on Sunday. The townspeople march to music from the town hall to the saint's namesake church. That evening, a funfair and the obligatory ball take place at the port. Free. (updated Apr 2019)
• Oyster Fair (Foire aux Huîtres) (Large parts of the town, notably the seafront, are pedestrianised for the duration. Temporary parking areas are provided at several entry points.), ☏ +33 4 67 43 66 40. 10–11 Aug 2019. Some 20,000 visitors descend on Bouzigues for an annual celebration of all things oyster. At the heart of things are the shellfish producers, whose delicacies you can sample in abundance, but also present are a multitude of other local food, wine and craft artisans. There are a number of events to keep you occupied, from 'best quality oyster' competitions, to tasting workshops, live music performances and fireworks on the Sunday evening. (updated Apr 2019)

• 🌍 OC'API (minimarket), place Georges Clemenceau, ☏ +33 4 67 78 36 36. Daily 08:00–11:00, 15:00–18ː00. Fresh fruit and veg, small deli counter with meats and cheeses, regional produce, tinned goods, alcohol, beach items and other essentials (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 La Petrie Artisan Boulanger Pâtissier (bakery and cake shop), 12 Grand-Rue Étienne Portes (Ignore the entirely unhelpful directional signs. Follow rue de la République from the town hall right past place G. Clemenceau, after which take the first L, and then the L fork onto Grand-Rue immediately after. If all else fails, the locals are used to giving directions). Tu–Sa 07ː00–13ː00, 16ː30–19:30; Su 07ː00–13ː00, M closed. Great local bakery which makes excellent bread; try the aveyronnais rather than a baguette. Tasty but small selection of savoury snacks and sweet pâtisseries. On the down side, the viennoiseries (croissants et al.) are disappointing, and if you ever manage to raise a smile from the bloke behind the counter, you're a special person indeed. (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 Marché de Bouzigues (twice-weekly market), place de la Golette. Tu F mornings. Very small market (about four stalls) selling local produce. (updated Apr 2019)

For a proper market atmosphere, as well as two decent-sized supermarkets (Carrefour and Intermarché), go to Mèze.

There are about half a dozen shops where you can buy shellfish (coquillages) direct from producers. Expect to pay a slight premium for oysters, given they are what Bouzigues is known for. However, other shellfish are very reasonably priced, as are tielles sétoises, a local squid and tomato pie. Most of these shops are located on 🌍 avenue Louis Tudesq, at the far end from the port; you will pass them on the way into town from the western D613 roundabout. There is also one shellfish shop on 🌍 place de la Golette.

• 🌍 L'Atelier des Artisans (Les Savons de Bouzigues), 17 avenue Louis Tudesq, ☏ +33 4 30 72 64 03. Daily 10ː00–19ː00. Specialists in hand-made soaps and cosmetics, which the owner makes herself. Other craft products from local artisans also sold. (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 L'Elixir, rue de la Poterne, ☏ +33 4 67 78 75 98. Tu–F 07.00–12.30 and 15.00–19.30; Sa 07.30 –12.30 and 15.00–19.30 Su; 08.00–12.30. Tobacconist and newsagent which also sells some souvenirs and local wine (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 Le Dressing, rue de la Poterne, ☏ +33 6 73 49 39 69. Tu–Fː 10ː30–12ː30, 16ː00–19ː30, Sa–Su 10ː30–19ː30; M closed. Vintage clothing and the best postcards depicting Bouzigues. (updated Apr 2018)

• Oysters (huîtres) from Bouzigues are amazingly fresh and must be tried by every visitor! Squeeze a dash of lemon onto the flesh, then scoop it out with your teeny-tiny fork and swallow whole. Washed down with a glass of the local white (Picpoul de Pinet), this is just like tasting the sea.
• Mussels (moules) are the other shellfish that is farmed in Bouzigues. Some of the restaurants serve them raw on a platter with oysters, but these are frankly not worth the bother unless you really want to try them. Much better are the classic moules marinières, or else moules farcies (stuffed with cheese, breadcrumbs and tomato) you can get at a few different restaurants.
• Prawns (crevettes) in Bouzigues are fat and delicious, and are served shell-on - forget any notion of piddly little shrimps. There are few more satisfying food experiences than breaking into a prawn, dipping it in aioli, and devouring it whole.
• Razor clams (couteaux) are uncommon on menus in the English-speaking world, which is odd because when cooked well they are divine: quite meaty, and a little bit squeaky when you chew them.
• All of the above on one almighty seafood platter (plateau de fruits de mer), a typically-lavish offering served at many restaurants. Most are for sharing between two.

• Tielles sétoises are small pies filled with a sort of squid, tomato and red pepper paste, and are a speciality of Sète.
• Bourride à la sétoise is an alioli-based orange-coloured fish soup which normally uses a white fish such as anglerfish (baudroie) with carrots, onion, potatoes and herbs.

There are many restaurants lining the front, and all seem to be of a very high standard, so the below list is by no means supposed to be comprehensive. If you are eating at dusk, try to get a table facing west; the sunsets over the étang can be spectacular whilst you're tucking into your meal.

Vegetarians, you're out of luck. Bouzigues is unfortunately typical of rural France in that none of the restaurants have proper vegetarian menus, and most don't even have the odd meat- or fish-free dish. The nearest vegetarian restaurant is La Part des Anges in Sète, but Montpellier has a much wider selection.

• 🌍 Chez Alex & Lucie, 19 avenue Louis Tudesq, ☏ +33 6 03 74 21 48. W–Su 12ː00–14ː30, 19ː00–21ː00. Succulent and fresh food served in generous portions, and with friendly service. When it's busy, service can be slow, so it's worth arriving early to beat the crowds. €25 and €32 three-course menus, à la carte mains €15-€25. (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 Chez la Tchepe, 14 avenue Louis Tudesq, ☏ +33 4 67 78 33 19, cabrol.jc@hotmail.fr. Tu–Su May–Sept 09:00–21:00, Oct–Mar 09:00–19:00. Jean-Christophe Cabrol has been serving his own étang-grown oysters at his restaurant since 1989. You can dine in on a selection of mixed platters, or take away. Platters: One person €16 incl. glass of wine, two people €32-€44, incl. bottle of wine. (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 La Perle Marine, 23 avenue Louis Tudesq, ☏ +33 4 67 78 56 25. W–Sa 12:00–14:30, 19:00–21:00, Su M 12:00-14:00, Tu closed. Faultless cooking, and the moules are especially good. Aside from the usual Bouzigues fare, their in-house specialities are mixed seafood brochettes (skewers). The service is inconsistent, depending on who you get. €16 two-course and €28.50 three-course menus. (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 Le 29 au bord de l'étang (Remember "Le 29" is pronounced "le vingt-neuf" in French, rather than "le twenty-nineǃ"), 29 avenue Louis Tudesq, ☏ +33 4 30 72 33 85, info@le-29.fr. Tu W 12:00-14:00, F–M 12ː00–14ː00, 19ː00–21ː30, Th closed off-season, otherwise 12ː00–14ː00, 19ː00–21ː30. Good, solid food. Serves a plethora of typical seafood, as well as burgers "à la française": cheeseburger with quality steak and camembert/reblochon, chicken or swordfish burger with Mediterranean salad; exciting stuff! Reservations by telephone or in person. Three-course menu €16.90, €22, €30. Two-course children's menu €10, shellfish platters €16-€58, à la carte mains €16-€24. (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 Le Grand Bleu, 13 avenue Louis Tudesq, ☏ +33 4 67 78 72 09. Tu–Su 12ː00–14ː30, 19ː00–21ː30. A friendly and competent service complements some very fresh and delicious seafood. Pre-order for bouillabaisse (Mediterranean fish stew). If you can, try to be seated upstairs for a better view over the water. Three-course menu €27-€39, à la carte mains €20-€25. (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 Le Petit Bouzigues, 45 avenue Louis Tudesq, ☏ +33 4 67 18 89 50. Tu–Th 12ː00–14ː00, 19ː00–20:30, F Sa 12ː00–14ː00, 19ː00–21ː45. Don't tell anyone, but... this could be the best restaurant in Bouzigues. One chef, one waitress, 16 covers. Intimate setting and superb cooking "à la plancha". Chef Antoine's speciality is octopus, but he seems to be able to turn his hand to all of the local seafood. Booking is essential. €25 and €30 three-course menus, à la carte mains €18.50-€24. (updated Apr 2019)

• 🌍 Mitcho Pizza, wagon on place de la Golette, ☏ +33 6 24 92 88 21. Every evening except M, 17ː30 until custom dries up a couple of hours later. French-style artisan pizza made to order. Mitcho is a popular local character, and cooks at a leisurely pace while chatting to his customers. If you don't wish to wait you can order ahead by phone. 33 cm pizzas €7.50-€10, calzones €10-€10.50, dessert pizzas €9. (updated Apr 2019)

Tired of French food? You'll have to head into Sète for Moroccan, Chinese and Indian offerings, or Mèze, where you'll find a decent Vietnamese place on avenue de Montpellier (the main D613 road from Bouzigues). Other than that, the city of Montpellier's dining scene is considerably more cosmopolitan.

• 🌍 À la voile blanche, 1 avenue Louis Tudesq, ☏ +33 4 67 78 35 77, alavoileblanche@wanadoo.fr. Harbourside location with views over marina and étang. Rooms are individually decorated. There is a bar and restaurant on site. Room €65-€110, suite €110-€190, breakfast €9. (updated Apr 2019)
• 🌍 La Côte Bleue, 59 avenue Louis Tudesq, ☏ +33 4 67 78 31 42, lacotebleue0572@orange.fr. Check-in: 15:00–19:00, check-out: 11:00. Motel-style establishment with modern rooms and a swimming pool. On-site restaurant with a proximity to the water that is unrivalled in Bouzigues. Room €75-€145. (updated Apr 2019)

• 🌍 Lou Labech, rue du Stade (Follow the camping signs from the town centre.), ☏ +33 4 67 78 30 38, contact@lou-labech.fr. Small campsite with space for 48 caravans and campervans. You can also hire a chalet. On-site health club, TV, free wifi, launderette, fridges and bike rental. Also home to two friendly donkeys. Two people and electricity hookup €16-€30 per night, additional person €3.70-€4.80 per night, chalet 2-4 persons €250-€590 per week, 4-6 persons €300-€700 per week. (updated Apr 2019)

If these limited options don't appeal, there is a lot of tourist accommodation in both Balaruc-les-Bains and Mèze.

• 🌍 La Poste, 5 avenue Alfred Bouat (along ave Alfred Bouat between rue Saint Nicolas & Croix de la Mission). The regional postcode for Mèze and Bouzigues is 34140 (updated Apr 2019)