Bukittinggi

There are some interesting legends surrounding the foundation and naming of “High Hill” Bukittinggi. The city has its origins in five villages which served as the basis for a marketplace. The city was known as Fort de Kock during colonial times in reference to the Dutch outpost established here in 1825 during the Padri War. The fort was founded by Captain Bauer at the top of Jirek hill and later named after the then Lieutenant Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies, Hendrik Merkus de Kock. The first road connecting the region with the west coast was built between 1833 and 1841 via the Anai Gorge, easing troop movements, cutting the costs of transportation and providing an economic stimulus for the agricultural economy. In 1856 a teacher-training college (Kweekschool) was founded in the city, the first in Sumatra, as part of a policy to provide educational opportunities to the indigenous population. A rail line connecting the city with Payakumbuh and Padang was constructed between 1891 and 1894. During the Japanese occupation of Indonesia in World War II, the city was the headquarters for the Japanese 25th Army, the force which occupied Sumatra. The headquarters was moved to the city in April 1943 from Singapore, and remained until the Japanese surrender in August 1945.

During the Indonesian National Revolution, the city was the headquarters for the Emergency Government of the Republic of Indonesia (PDRI) from December 19, 1948 to July 13, 1949. During the second 'Police Action' Dutch forces invaded and occupied the city on December 22, 1948, having earlier bombed it in preparation. The city was surrendered to Republican officials in December 1949 after the Dutch government recognized Indonesian sovereignty. The city was officially renamed Bukittinggi in 1949, replacing its colonial name. From 1950 until 1957, Bukittinggi was the capital city of a province called Central Sumatra, which encompassed West Sumatra, Riau and Jambi. In February 1958, during a revolt in Sumatra against the Indonesian government, rebels proclaimed the Revolutionary Government of the Republic of Indonesia (PRRI) in Bukittinggi. The Indonesian government had recaptured the town by May the same year.

Known by the locals as "Travel" is cheapest way to get there. The approximate price is about Rp30,000/person for one way. The vehicle is a Honda Odyssey 2.4 minivan with a capacity of 7 seats. Keep in mind that the bus driver usually waits until the chair occupation is about 75%. Once the car is "full", the minivan will depart and take the passengers to their destination.

Jasa Mulya and Annanta run a SUV service between Padang and Pekanbaru via Bukittinggi. Journey time to Pekanbaru around 6 hours in normal traffic. Fare Rp. 150,000 or 180,000 depending on vehicle type as of December 2023. Contact them on Whatsapp a day or two (or more during peak season) before departure for the actual schedule.

For Kersik Tuo near Kerinci Park, minivans depart throughout the day, leaving the bus station and also picking up at hotels if booked by phone. Travel time is 8 hours, cost is Rp130,000 (2019), and the trip is relatively comfortable, with stops at roadhouses.

The main bus station is at Aur Kuniang, 2km southeast of the town center. Many services are minibuses and shared cars, which stop at the bus station but will also collect and drop passengers at their accommodation if booked by phone.

DAMRI is the bus operator that goes to Padang. Two hours, price Rp20,000 as of 2017. There are also buses to/from Lake Maninjau 1½ hours.

Hotels in Bukittinggi can organize a door-to-door transfer from your hotel in Bukittinggi to your hotel in Padang. Departs hourly. Approximate price: Rp40,000 to 50,000 as of 2017. Hello Hostel might be among the cheapest especially if you stay with them.

Several bus companies (such as ALS) run buses from Parapat near Lake Toba. The trip is very winding and rough, and takes approximately 15–20 hours. Be prepared for bus sickness, and to pay around Rp250,000 to 300,000 depending on bus (always AC, higher class but with toilets; driver will stop every 2–4 hr and for eating). As the trip is uphill from Lake Toba, the one-way fare is more expensive this way than coming from the south. ALS Parapat - Butikkinggi (route Medan–Jakarta) happens multiple times a day (12:00, 14:00, 15:00) but only 18:00 one will take route to Padang (AC, toilet).

ALS also runs a service to Medan from its branch on Jalan Raya Batusangkar.

Numerous buses go from Medan to Jakarta and stop on the way at Bukittinggi.

At PDG (Minangkabau International Airport) of Padang, there are several desks and individual operators where you can order taxis but they all ask around Rp300,000, including Grab and Gojek. There is also a train right at the airport that charges Rp5000 to go to Kayutanam, about half the 70 km to Bukittinggi, from which you can hail a minibus the rest of the way. As of June 2022, there are three trains per day, leaving at 9:25, 14:00, and 19:10, and they take about an hour and 10 minutes. (Going back, trains leave Kayutanam Station at 06:50, 11:30, and 16:20.)

An alternative is to take a motorcycle taxi for Rp20,000 about 4 km to the main road (the Duku turn-off) and hail a passing minibus to Bukittinggi for another Rp20,000. (Warning: they can be crowded.)

Bukittinggi is a small town, so these places are within walking distance with each other (15–30 minute walk).

• 🌍 Sianok Canyon (Ngarai Sianok) and the Japanese Caves (Lubang Jepang) (Panorama Ngarai Sianok). A network of underground bunkers and tunnels built by the Japanese during World War II. Guide is mostly if you want tunnel history as they are not big enough to get lost. There is a two-story observation tower that overlooks the Sianok Canyon on east side. During dusk you can observe megabats flying from the gorges to the forest in order to feed from the fruits on the trees. This is also a good place to get in contact with guides for tours such as to Lake Maninjau (see below) or jungle/hiking trips through the Canyon. Rp25,000. Tunnel guide Rp70,000. (updated Apr 2024)
• 🌍 Fort de Kock. A fort built by the Dutch (nothing is left, only a water reservoir is on top of the hill) and Bundo Kanduang Park. The park includes a replica Rumah Gadang (traditional house), used as a museum of Minangkabau culture (many curiosities, such as stuffed animals with two heads and six legs, model houses and traditional dresses, foreign currencies, and a zoo with a few very sad Orang Utans, a few expired species which are still rotting in their cages, two obese bears - not exactly an example in modern animal keeping. The Dutch hilltop outpost Fort de Kock is connected to the zoo by the Limpapeh pedestrian overpass. Rp50,000. (updated Apr 2024)
• 🌍 House of Bung Hatta. The house of Mohammad Hatta, the first Vice President of Indonesia. Free. (updated Apr 2024)
• 🌍 Clock Tower (Jam Gadang = Great Clock). It is a clock tower and major landmark and tourist attraction in Bukittinggi. It is located in the centre of the city, near the main market, Pasar Ateh, and palace of Mohammad Hatta. The structure was built in 1926, during the Dutch colonial era, as a gift from Queen Wilhelmina to the city's controleur. It was designed by architects Yazin and Sutan Gigi Ameh, reportedly at a cost of 3,000 guilder. Originally a rooster figure was placed on the apex, but it was changed into a Jinja-like ornament during the Japanese occupation (1942–1945). Following Indonesian independence, the tower's top was reshaped to its present form, which resembles traditional Minang roofs. Tourists visiting the tower were once allowed to climb to the top, but as of 2016 require written permission to do so. (updated Jul 2018)

There are horse carriages waiting around the Jam Gadang area. Please be cautioned that the rides are very costly, therefore please ask for their rates first.

There are two tours that hotels and tour agencies try to push, a tour to Minangkabau and another tour to Maninjau. If you have time, you may go and stay there few days.

The Minangkabau tour will visit these places in east area of Bukittinggi:

• The King's palace in Pagaruyung
• Balimbing village with old century traditional house that is more than 350 years old
• Handcraft in Pandai Sikek, such as kain songket (traditional woven clothes), ukiran kayu or bamboo (handmade crafting)
• Traditional coffee toasters
• Bika, traditional sweet made from coconut, rice flour and palm sugar, located in Koto Baru, between Padang Panjang-Bukittinggi.

The Maninjau Tour will visit places in west area of Bukittinggi:

• Lake Maninjau
• Puncak Lawang, a place where you can see a panoramic of Lake Maninjau
• The "44 turns", forty-four numbered(!) hairpin bends up the mountain from where you can see a panoramic of lake Maninjau.

Each tour requires at least 8 hours and usually held from 09:00-17:00 (including a stop at some restaurants). The price is ranging from Rp250,000/pp to Rp450,000/pp (2017 price). Hire a car is highly recommended if you're in a group of more than 4 people. Car's price includes driver, fuel, entry ticket, and parking fee. Tips aren't compulsory, lunch invitation is more than enough. Most of the places require ticket and will charge a parking fee. One tour will require about Rp40,000 only for parking and ticket entry. Another option is hiring a car and arranging with the driver to visit the places in Minangkabau and Lake Maninjau. If you are alone, it is also possible to find guides in the Sianok Canyon park who will take you to Lake Maninjau with a motorbike (ask for Parta e.g., no fixed price, he will take what you give him). In any case, depart earlier, as the tour will take all day.

Famous agencies selling these tours are Lite'n'easy, and Roni's tour and travel (in hotel Orchid). However since they are both recommended by a famous American guidebook, they tend to quote overpriced fees. Hello Hostel (very near both other agencies) seems cheaper.

The budget option to Maninjau is to take the bus (or minibus) from the bus station (get there from the Bemo station near the market) to Maninjau (35 km, 2 hr by bus, 1 hr by minibus). Unfortunately, a tourist racket has been set up so you won't get the ticket for the Rp6000 (Oct 2007) the locals pay. Expect to pay at least Rp10,000 (Oct 2007). Have the right change ready; don't expect to get any from the conductor. To get back, either try to catch a minibus (Rp10,000) or a big bus (Rp15,000-20,000). The big buses you have to catch in the same direction you came, since the narrow road is a one-way for lorries.

The budget option to Minangkabau is to take the Batusangkar public bus for Rp18,000 (Dec 2023) and hire a motorbike (Rp15,000 return as of Oct 2007) from there (or walk the remaining 5 km) to Pagaruyung. You can now also hire one on Maxim for less than Rp10,000 (Dec 2023) one way from Batusangkar city centre. For Minibuses and buses back to Bukittingi leave from the bus terminal or may be flagged down anywhere.

The Harau Valley is a pretty gorge about an hour east of Bukittinggi comprising a valley floor of rice paddy hemmed in by shear sandstone cliffs. There are several waterfalls with pools (both natural and constructed) for bathing, and you can go rock climbing on the cliffs. Harau is reached via Payakumbuh.

If you are interested in visiting the equator, you can take a bus to Bonjol where there is a monument marking the equator built over the main road, good for photo opportunities if you are keen to stand in both hemispheres simultaneously. Theres also a museum on the site which houses a few artefacts of little interest - mainly coins and banknotes. Catch the bus from the Aur Kuning bus station, minibuses depart fairly frequently. Expect to pay Rp10 000 as a tourist. To get back there is a bus which comes from the opposite direction (or northern hemisphere) at 17:00, or alternatively you can wait at the small roadside cafe right next to the monument where locals will help you flag down a bemo which is destined for Bukittinggi (its quite difficult for non-locals to distinguish between a service bemo and a someones car, but the locals seem to know what is what.

Sikotang or Sarobat is one of the most famous drinks in Minangkabau. The beverage is made from red ginger (Zingiber sp) and spices such as cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum sp), nutmeg/"pala" (Myristica fragrans), etc. Sikotang is usually mixed with egg, bread, green beans (kacang padi/kacang ijo), and cane or palm sugar. Such a hot drink is useful for keeping your body warm during a cold highland night like in Padang Panjang, Batusangkar and Bukittinggi. Price Rp 5,000-15,000.

Daun kawa is made from roasted dry leaves of the coffee tree. The dried leaves are boiled in hot water and put into sections of bamboo and drunk from a "cawan tampuruang" (coconut shell). It can be found in Bukittinggi, Payakumbuh and Batusangkar. Please ask anyone, especially people over age 40. They will show you where a good place is to taste Daun Kawa! Price Rp 5,000-15,000 in 2009

Juice of Pinang (betel nut, the Areca catechu seed) is a bitter tasting drink available in Padang, Bukittingi, and other areas that is believed to have an effect on sexual stamina. Pinang has a biological effect as a stimulant like tobacco, coffee, and tea. Its chemical contents are arecolin, arecain, tannin, and flavonoids. Just try it and feel the difference! For beginners, don't drink more than one pinang seed. Price Rp 5,000-15,000 in 2009.

This is a special Minangkabau drink made from egg mixed with hot tea and lemon. Please taste it. You will never forget the experience! Price Rp 5,000-15,000 in 2009.

There are a variety of fruit juices ranging from Alpokat (avocado juice), Sirsak (soursop), Jeruk (orange), wortel (carrot) etc. The list is endless. Prices range from Rp 4,000-10,000.

Enjoy one of world's most prestigious coffees, Kopi Luwak, in Batang Palupuah Kampong, Bukittinggi. The coffee is made from coffee beans that have passed through a civet cat before roasting. Keep in mind the vast majority of coffee that is sold as "Civet Cat coffee" is not authentic.

The Minangkabau also have traditional alcoholic beverages such as tuak. Tuak is made from fermented nira, a liquid collected by cutting the fruit branch of aren or enau tree (Arenga pinnata). However, it is quite difficult to find in Bukittinggi due to the Muslim majority population.

Small budget hotels are easy to find. Many locals offer accommodation which are like family-owned hotels that provide a "feel at home" atmosphere. The prices span from Rp 80,000 - Rp 200,000 per room without air-conditioning. Breakfast is included. There are no lifts in these small hotels, so be prepared if your room is on the upper floors. Room cleaning is not provided everyday in some cases, so don't hesitate to ask the hotel manager if you want a daily cleaning service.

• Hotel Cindua Mato, Jl. Cindur Mato 96 (across the street from the Zoo), ☏ +62 752 21346, fax: +62 752 22808. Around 10 rooms. No hot water. Rp85,000. 
• Orchid Hotel, Jl Teuku Umar, doubles from Rp170,000 including a very basic breakfast (coffee and bread). Located near the mosque, the call to prayer can be extremely loud, especially from F-Su and during Ramadhan. Staff is nice but constantly trying to sell you tours, transportation, etc. No wifi.
• Hotel Asean, Jl Teuku Umar, singles from Rp80,000.
• d'enam Hotel, Jl Yos Sudarso No. 4, double with toilet Rp100,000, toilet outside Rp90,000 (prices 2017); located on top of a hill close to the mosque and the clocktower, friendly and helpful staff, ☏ +62 752 32240.
• Hotel Murni, Jl A. Yani (north end). Old building. Rooms with two beds: Rp80,000 
• Hotel Tigo Balai, Jl A. Yamin. smallish rooms but reasonably clean and nice staff. Rp80,000. 
• Hello Guesthouse, jl Teuku Umar, helloguesthouse12@gmail.com. Nice staff and clean hostel with small breakfast included. Dorm Rp75 000, double room Rp150 000 (2017). 
• 🌍 Kareem Syariah Hostel, Jl. Ahmad Karim Belakang Ramayana No.9c, Benteng Ps. Atas, Kec. Guguk Panjang, Kota Bukittinggi, Sumatera Barat 23136 (downtown, near hello guesthouse), ☏ +62 821-7095-0506. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. shared bathroom, hot water, towel, soap, wifi - careful as very slow on all floors but 1F. small double, either double bed, either bed bunk, fan (but noisy), power plugs, internal window. toilets: mix squat and western with toilet paper and toilet gun. water fountain, free tea and coffee. rooftop that can be used to eat. no kitchen, fridge or microwave. Receptionists kind and caring but limited english, help of online translation and not much tours or advice for backpacker travel. No laundry service but shops nearby. no dorm, room Rp 90-125,000 (online cheaper than walk-in). (updated Apr 2024)

The top hotels in the city are The Hills Bukittinggi (formerly the Novotel Coralia) and Pusako Hotel. Although The Hills Bukittinggi is comfortable place to stay especially for tourists from the West, the cost is at least Rp 800,000 for a night; in comparison there are many small hotels around Fort de Kock that are around Rp 120,000 that are quite nice.