Capitol Reef National Park

From the 9th to 15th centuries, Native Americans of the Fremont Culture lived in and near the Waterpocket Fold. They seem to have left the region around 1500 for unknown reasons. Later, nomadic Ute and Southern Paiute tribes inhabited the area. Explorer John C. Fremont passed through the northern part of what is now Capitol Reef in 1854. The Fremont River that runs through the park is named after him.

White settlement came late to the area, in the 1870s, Latter Day Saints (Mormon) settlers moved into the high plateau lands west of Capitol Reef and established communities based on short-season farming and grazing. In the 1880s Mormon settlers moved into Capitol Reef and established the community of Fruita along the banks of the Fremont River. These settlers planted the fruit orchards along the river that still exist today. No more than 10 families at any one time lived in the Fruita area.

The area was called "Wayne Wonderland" in the 1920s by local boosters Ephraim P. Pectol and Joseph S. Hickman, and in 1937, President Franklin D. Roosevelt set aside a portion of Wayne Wonderland as a National Monument. Funds for the park were scarce, however, and it would be a long time before the first rangers would arrive. During the 1960s, a campground, visitor center and staff housing were built and a road through the park was paved. During this period, most of the farmers in the area left and sold their land to the Park Service. In 1968, a large amount of land was added to the park, increasing its size by almost 600%, and in 1971 the National Monument became Capitol Reef National Park.

Travellers to the park experience a dazzling landscape of rock formations. From colorful domes, high cliffs, and towering spires of sandstone to arches, natural bridges, and narrow slot canyons. The desert streams, such as the Fremont, wind through the Park, carving deep canyons and meandering through floodplains surrounded by narrow ribbons of greenery.

The Waterpocket Fold defines the park. A 100-mile long warp in the Earth's crust, the Waterpocket Fold is a classic monocline: a regional fold with one very steep side in an area of otherwise nearly horizontal layers. A monocline is a "step-up" in the rock layers. The layers on the west side of the Fold have been lifted more than 7,000 ft (2,100 m) higher than those on the east. The park was established primarily to preserve the geologic features of the Waterpocket Fold, such as the scenic rock domes and narrow canyons. Capitol Reef is a geologist's paradise, with nearly 10,000 feet of sedimentary layers ranging from 270 million to 80 million years old. The Waterpocket Fold has tilted this geologic layer cake down to the east, with older rocks in the west and younger ones in the east. Rock layers in Capitol Reef reveal ancient environments as varied as rivers and swamps (Chinle Formation), Sahara-like deserts (Navajo Sandstone), and shallow oceans (Mancos Shale). These layers have been eroded by wind and especially water over the last 20 million years. The land forms are a result of different responses of various rock layers to these forces of erosion. Hard sandstone layers form cliffs, while softer shale layers form slopes and low hills. Black boulders found scattered throughout the park are volcanic rocks from the 20 to 30 million year old lava flows which cap the nearby mountains.

The most visible plant life in the park is found in the riparian corridors near Fruita. Along the rivers, you may see cottonwoods and willows as well as the invasive tamarisk. Pioneer orchards along the Fremont River sport apple, apricot, pear, peach, and cherry trees. In the dryer areas of the park, you may see sagebrush, Utah Juniper, various prickly pear cacti, and higher elevations may feature pinyon pine. The cacti, along with some desert wildflowers, bloom briefly in the early spring.

Like many parts of the Utah desert, the nearly barren ground is covered with a biological soil crust, also known as cryptobiotic soil. This collection of bacteria, moss and lichen helps to stabilize loose desert soils and retain precious moisture. These crusts are very fragile, however, and should never be walked or driven on as they may take centuries to regenerate. Do not leave established hiking trails, but if you must, walk in washes or on bare rock.

There are many animals in the park, but, like many desert creatures, they are far more active at night. The park is home to many species of lizards, and a number of snakes. Listen for the sound of Canyon Wrens in the narrow washes; they and many other birds make their home here. Vultures, hawks and the introduced Chukar are common sights in the park. You may be lucky enough to see some of the numerous bat species flying around Fruita in the evening. Deer are an extremely common sight in the orchards and picnic area. Though they may look tame, they are not. Do not feed them or any other animal. Other common large mammals include the Gray Fox, Raccoon, Ringtail, Badger, and Porcupine. The once common Desert Bighorn Sheep were reintroduced in the late 1990s and are thriving. Mountain Lions have also been reported in the park, but are rarely seen by visitors. If you do see one, do not approach it.

Summer temperatures often climb into the upper 90s(F), but nights cool down into the 50s(F) and 60s(F). The thunderstorm season from July through September brings cloudbursts, flash floods and lightning. Spring and fall are milder with highs generally in the 50s(F) and 60s(F). Daytime winter highs average less than 50(F). Snowfall is usually light, especially at lower elevations. Humidity is low all year.

• Park website

There are extensive roads running through the park, some paved, some not. A few roads require a four-wheel drive vehicle. During a strong storm some roads become impassable by any vehicle.

Biking is allowed only on established roads in order to protect the fragile high desert soil.

• Rim Overlook & Navajo Knobs trail (deviation from the Hickman Bridge trail located on Highway 24).  Strenuous, with a fantastic 360° view from the summit.

• Cohab Canyon (one trailhead lies right on the road outside the Fruita campground in a well-marked place, the other trailhead is on Highway 24 across the Hickman Bridge trailhead, also well-marked).  One of the most popular trails, this one-way, 1 3/4 mile trail connects Highway 24 and the Fruita campground by way of a gorgeous canyon littered with side slot canyons and small holes in the rock, begging to be explored. At the campground trailhead there is a series of switchbacks for 1/4 mile, the most strenuous part of the hike. Halfway there is a side trail leading to a north and south overlook of Highway 24 and the nearby orchards. The north overlook rests on a sheer cliff hundreds of feet from the ground.

• Hickman Bridge (self-guided nature trail) (trailhead right off Highway 24 connected to a small parking lot).  Be sure to pick up a brochure at the trailhead ($0.50) and watch for numbered wooden poles. One of the attractions is a small clay enclosure tucked up into the fold of a rock once used by the Fremont tribe to store food. An easy 1 mile loop hike leads to the Hickman Natural Bridge.

There is no lodging other than camping in the park, the nearby towns of Torrey, Caineville and Hanksville have a selection of hotels, motels, B&Bs, etc.

• Fruita Campground (one mile south of the visitor's center on the main road). 71 sites. 58 sites can be reserved in advance, 13 sites are first-come, first-served. There are nearby bathrooms with running water, picnic table, fire pit, RV dump station, a nearby amphitheater with Ranger talks almost every night in the summer season, and a bordering apple and pear tree grove. When the trees are bearing fruit, deer will wander into the grove every night and eat fallen fruit. Campers can safely view the wild animals at a distance, but it is not recommended to go any closer than 30 feet, as mothers can charge humans if they perceive a threat. It is open year-round. From March through October, campsites are able to be reserved on www.recreation.gov. From November through February, campsites are filled on a first-come, first-served basis. Maximum of 7 people per site. $20 per site (2020 rates). (updated Jun 2020)

There are two primitive camping spots in the park, each offering a picnic table, fire grate, and pit toilet. Neither site has running water or other amenities. Both are first-come, first-served and do not require a fee.

• Cathedral Campground (on the Cathedral Valley Loop Road about 36 miles (57.9 km) from the visitor center). This primitive, first-come, first-served, no-fee campground has six sites, each with a picnic table and fire grate. There is a pit toilet, but no water available. The campground is open year-round; however, visitors should check road conditions with the Capitol Reef Visitor Center prior to planning an overnight stay. The campground is at ~7,000 feet (2,133 m) in elevation. Free. (updated Jun 2020)

• Cedar Mesa Campground (approximately 23 miles (37.0 km) south of Utah State Highway 24 on the Notom-Bullfrog Road). This primitive, first-come, first-served, no-fee campground has five sites, each with a picnic table and fire grate. There is also a pit toilet, but no water is available. The campground is open year-round, but visitors should check with the Capitol Reef Visitor Center for road conditions prior to planning an overnight stay. It is located at 5,500 feet (1,676 m) in elevation. Free. (updated Jun 2020)

It is recommended to camp at least 1/2 mile away from an established trail or road. Open fires are not allowed. Cooking must be done with a portable stove. A free backcountry permit must be acquired from the visitor center. Rangers at the visitor center can also help plan a trip and recommend favorite camping spots.