Mariana

Mariana is a colonial mining town in Central Minas Gerais.

Understand

Mariana, originally known as Nossa Senhora do Carmo, came into existence with the discovery of gold along the Ribeirão Nossa Senhora do Carmo river in 1696. Known informally as the Primeira Cidade (First City), it is indeed a city of firsts: It was the first vila established in the state and soon became the first state capital, and a major center for the burgeoning gold trade. In 1745, the Portuguese king, Dom João V, renamed the city after his wife, Maria Ana D'Austria. Around the same time, the city became the seat of the first bishopric in the state and hence became an important religious center for the region. In response to the influx of people, streets and rectangular plazas were planned, making Mariana the first planned city in the state. These days, Mariana preserves many of the original colonial buildings and churches in such a thorough way that the traveller almost feels he has stepped back in time.

Get in

By plane

The nearest airport is in Belo Horizonte.

By bus
  • Local buses ferry between Ouro Preto and Mariana every thirty minutes, dropping passengers at the tourism office on Rua Antônio Olinto. The ride takes 35 minutes and costs R$1.
  • Long distance buses from Belo Horizonte, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Victória and other cities arrive at the bus station on the outskirts of town.

See
  • Ateliê de Marionetes Catin Nardi, Rua do Seminário, 290 - Centro, ☏ +55 31 9601-7661. Argentinian marionettist Catin Nardi has gained some fame across Brazil for some television shows he has created. He gives weekly shows for tourists every Saturday at 19:00, or by appointment. R$10-15. 
  • Cachoeira do Brumado (Brumado Waterfall) (in the district of the same name). 
  • Casa da Câmara e Cadeia, Praça de Minas Gerais. In colonial times, this building housed offices of public officials, the city council, and the jail. At other times in its history, it has held a hospital, a butcher shop, and various other things. 
  • Gruta da Nossa Senhora da Lapa (Cave of Our Lady of Lapa), at the end of Rua da Lapa (in a small district a few kilometers north of the main town). 
  • Rua Direita. Tu-Sa 12:00-18:00, Su 09:00-15:00. The oldest and best-preserved houses of the town line this beautiful street, the second oldest street in town. Some highlights include the Casa do Barão de Pontal, (former state governor's house), the Casa Setecentista, (a 18th-century archive building), and the house of poet Alphonsus de Guimarães, now containing a small museum dedicated to his work. 

Museums
  • Museu Arquidiocesano de Arte Sacra (Museum of Sacred Art of the Archdiocese), Rua Frei Durão - Centro. Tu-F 08:30-12:00 and 13:30-17:00, Sa Su and holidays 08:30-14:00. Installed in a colonial building whose construction began in 1770, this is one of Brazil's best sacred art museums, with over two thousand objects, including a golden reliquary considered to be the richest in the state and second in Brazil. The collection includes works in soapstone, porcelain and wood, Portuguese paintings, paintings by Ataíde, and many other objects. R$5. 
  • Museu da Música de Mariana (Mariana Music Museum), Rua Cônego Amando, 161 - Centro, ☏ +55 31 3557-2778. Tu-Sa 08:30-11:30 and 13:30-18:00. Located inside the former Palácio dos Bispos, the old Bishop's Palace. Its permanent exhibit includes a hands-on music display, and a collection which contains scores, documents, and other printed material from the 1700s forward. Free. 
  • Museu do Livro (Book Museum), Cônego Amando nº 161 - Centro, ☏ +55 31 3557-2778, . Tu-Sa 08:30-11:30 and 13:30-18:00, Su 08:30-12:00. Houses many rare books from the 18th century, including a number of volumes related to the Inconfidência Mineira. If you cannot read Portuguese, you might give this one a pass. 

Churches
  • Catedral de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Catedral da Sé), Praça da Sé. Tu-Su 08:00-17:00. The city's largest and most important church was constructed between 1709 and 1750. Many famous artists contributed to its construction, including Aleijadinho, his father, and Manuel da Costa Ataíde. On Fridays at 11:00 and Sundays at 12:15, concerts are given on the beautiful German organ which was built in 1701. R$2; R$7 for concert times. 
  • Igreja da Arquiconfraria, Rua Dom Silvério - Centro. M-F 08:00-120:00 and 13:30-17:00, Sa 09:00-11:00. Constructed in 1784, this church has a uniquely simple design compared to the many baroque churches typically built in the region in that era. R$1. 
  • Igreja Matriz Nossa Senhora da Glória. 
  • Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Mercês, Rua das Mercês - Centro. This church has a rather plain outward appearance but houses some of the most revered artwork in town, a beautiful series of wood carvings decorated in gold, made by an unknown artist. The church is being restored. 
  • Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário, Rua Monsenhor Horta - Rosário, ☏ +55 31 3557-1179. M-F 10:00-17:00. This 1752 construction has elaborately-decorated altars. The painting on the chapel ceiling is particularly well-preserved. R$1. 
  • Igreja de Santo Antônio. Oldest church in the city. 
  • Igreja São Francisco de Assis, Praça de Minas Gerais - Centro. Daily 08:00-12:00 and 13:00-17:00. Constructed between 1763 and 1794 and decorated by a number of different painters including Manuel da Costa Ataíde, who is buried here. The medallion above the doorway is attributed to Aleijadinho. R$2. 
  • Igreja de São Pedro dos Clérigos, Rua Dom Silvério - Colina de São Pedro. A very attractive church designed by Antônio Ferreira Calheiros, who also designed the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário in Ouro Preto. Construction began in 1752 but the church was never really finished. R$1. 
  • Sanctuário Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Praça de Minas Gerais. Daily 08:00-12:00 and 13:00-17:00. This 1784 church is the only one in town with cylindrical towers. Part of the main nave was destroyed by fire in 1999. Donations accepted. 
  • Seminário Maior São José, Praça Dom Benevides - São José (Chácara), ☏ +55 31 3557-1140. Beautiful building designed in neo-colonial style. There is also a charming chapel with interesting mosaics. Visits must be arranged by telephone in advance. 

Do
  • Pan for gold - Off of Rua Rosário Velho along the creek, people still pan for gold in much the same way they have for centuries.
  • 🌍 Caraça Natural Reserve (Reserva Particular do Patrimônio Natural Santuário Caraça). The park has trails for exploring its waterfalls, rivers, lakes and caves. Winters (May to September) are dry and cool. The park is accessed by road from nearby Santa Bárbara. 

Events
  • July 16 - On the anniversary of the city's founding, the state governor comes to spend the day in Mariana, and the city relives the days when it was the grand capital of Minas Gerais.

Tours
  • Aventura Minas Radical, Rua Eugênio Eduardo Rapallo, 192- Passagem de Mariana, ☏ +55 31 3557-5278, +55 31 9619-6801. Tour agency that provides for a wide range of activities including ecological treks, rappelling, canyonning, and paintball. 
  • Eco Adventure Mariana, ☏ +55 31 3558-1417, +55 31 8828-0355. Specializing in ecotourism and environmental education, this agency offers outings on foot or in Jeeps which span the region, including Ouro Preto and all the waterfalls of the outlying districts. 

Eat
  • Alvorada, Rua Jorge Marques 101. Reasonably-priced churrascaria. 
  • Dom Silvério, Rua do Seminário 290, ☏ +55 31 3557-2475. 18:30-00:00. Great pizza. Around R$16/person. 
  • Engenho Novo, Praca da Sé 26. 11:00-16:00; 19:00-23:00. Mineiro restaurant at lunchtime, bar at night. The owners speak English. Lunch R$16. 
  • Lua Cheia, Rua Dom Vicoso 23. 11:00-16:00. Award-winning mineiro cuisine per kilo. An all-you-can-eat option is also available. R$12/kilo. 
  • Mangiare della Mamma, Rua Dom Viçoso 27. Tasty per-kilo mineiro cuisine. R$4/kilo. 
  • Portão da Praca, Praca Gomes Freire. 11:00-18:00. Great little sandwich shop. Try a beirute, something similar to a döner kebab. From R$8. 
  • Restaurante Pizzeria Senzala, Praça Gomes Freire. Good lunch specials and a bar atmosphere at night. 
  • Tambaú, Travessa João Pinheiro 26, ☏ +55 31 3557-1406. 

Drink
  • Tatu’s Dancing, Praça Cláudio Manoel. Open weekends, this disco is the busiest in town. 

Sleep

Many of the accommodations in town are within a short walk of Praça Tancredo Neves.

  • Hotel Central, Rua Frei Durão 8 (at Praça Gomes Freire), ☏ +55 31 3557-1630. Somewhat run-down but acceptable accommodations. R$20-40. 
  • Hotel Faísca, Rua Antônio Olinto 48-A, ☏ +55 31 3557-1765. Full apartments or simple rooms available. R$40-70. 
  • Hotel Müller, Rua Getúlio Vargas 34, fax: +55 31 3557-2492. R$40-70. 
  • Hotel Providência, Rua Dom Silvério 233, ☏ +55 31 3577-1444. Swimming pool available. 
  • Pousada Solar dos Corrêa, Rua Josafá Macedo 70, ☏ +55 31 3557-2080. Rooms are furnished with replicas of colonial furniture and have nice views. Request room number 8 for the best decor. R$40-70. 
  • Pousada Typographia, Praça Gomes Freire 220, ☏ +55 31 3557-1577. Installed in a restored 18th-century manor with replica period decor. Spacious rooms. R$70-100. 

Connect
  • Associacão dos Gulas, Rua Antônio Olinto (next to the tourist office). Stop by here to pick up a free town map. 

Internet cafés
  • Celeiro das Artes Cybercafé, Praca Gomes Freire, ☏ +55 31 3557-1336. 10:00-22:00. Decent connections with an interesting decor of local handicrafts. R$4/hour. 
  • Mdo Lan House (Rua Direita 183), ☏ +55 31 3557-4585. Internet and gaming systems. 

Go next
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