Cirque de Cilaos

The name Cilaos is traced back to the Malagasy Tsilaosa, which means something like "someone you don't leave" or "place where you're safe": The first inhabitants of the basin were slaves who had escaped from the sugar cane plantations on the coast in the 18th century ("Noirs marrons"). After the end of slavery, impoverished sages ("petits blancs") also immigrated.

The crater of the Cirque de Cilaos has a diameter of approximately 11 km, and the valley floor is at an altitude of approximately 1200 metres. The region is drained by the Bayonne Gorge.

Access by car is only possible on the extremely winding RN 5 from the south from Saint-Louis, Saint-Pierre.

See also: Hiking in Réunion

The neighbouring Cirque de Mafate crater basin on the northwest side (which has no road and only accessible on foot and from the air anyway) can be reached by hiking on the hiking trail sGR R1 and GR R2 over the Col du Taïbit pass (2142 m). Total walking time to Marla (first place in the Cirque de Mafate) takes approximately 5 hours, can be shortened by a good two hours with the local bus Pastel (line to Îlet à Cordes, stop Col du Taïbit).

The Cirque de Salazie crater basin on the northeast side can be reached on the GR R1 hiking trail via the ascent to the Caverne Dufour hut on the Piton des Neiges and from there then further to the northwest as a hike.

The trails can be accessed from Saint-Louis by the road of 420 bends (route aux 420 virages). Whilst in this welcoming village sat at the foot of the Piton des Neiges cliff, be sure not to miss the embroidery museum (musée de la broderie).

• Cilaos. A paradise for hikers of all abilities. With the circuit of the volcano, the most famous hike is most definitely the ascent of the Piton des Neiges. To make the most of the hike, be sure to be well-equipped: solid hiking footwear, water, cereal bars, dried fruits, an IGN map of the St-Pierre region, and a second pair of lighter sandals for severe weather or downpours. The tracks are very well marked-out and maintained, making it fairly difficult to get lost. The remaining hiking time (for the competent walker) is also marked on each signpost. To get warmed up first, start out with an easy walk (such as the Bras-Rouge waterfall) before tackling a visit to Mafate (Marla by the Taïbit pass) or the Piton des Neiges. Cilaos is also a passing point of the GR1 and GR2 hiking trails. 
  • La Roche Merveilleuse is a rocky headland in the heart of the forest, where you will be greeted by a stunning panoramic view across the cirque and its villages. It can be reached by car in 15 minutes on tarmacked roads. Get here by taking the route du Bras-Sec and follow signs for the forêt de cryptomérias (Japanese cedar forest).
  • Ilet-à-Cordes. Nestled on a clearing at the foot of the Grand-Bénare, Ilet-à-Cordes was one a popular sanctuary for indigenous "Noirs marrons". Nowadays it is dedicated to agriculture (lentils, citrus fruits and wine-growing). It is a well-earned place to rest up after a journey along the mountainside, where locals extend a warm welcome to visitors and gladly engage in conversation about their daily lives. Another place to stop by is the old thermal baths at the Bras-Rouge waterfall. The journey leaves a little further up from la Chapelle, approximately 5 hours.
  • La cascade de Bras-Rouge. Found in the Bras-Rouge gorge, on the old path towards Mafate, the waterfall has carved out several pools which are ideal settings for picnics. The water coloured by iron oxide is one of the principal attractions. An easy family walk, with numerous viewing spots along the gorges. For a round-trip, set aside 2.5 hours. To get there from the thermal pools, follow the well-indicated path (named chemin des porteurs) flanked with flowers and greenery.
  • Palmiste-Rouge by the Sentier des Calumets. The Sentier des Calumets is one of the most interesting ways to discover Palmiste-Rouge (but if strapped for time, it is possible to reach by car from the Cilaos road in St-Louis). It is just a short walk from the end of the village of Bras-Sec. The route crosses forests, winds its way around the foot of Bonnet-de-Prêtre, and comes down towards the small "village at the bottom of the valley". Nothing difficult here, apart from that it is sometimes slippery, especially in the morning. After around 2½ hours of walking, you will come across a typical mountain hamlet with nice restaurants. Get back by car (or hitchhiking) or wait for the bus back up to Cilaos. It is of course also possible to go back on foot. Expect a journey of 5½ hours.
  • La Chapelle. Before the road, the journey towards Ilet-à-Cordes could only be made by a path going down steeply into the Bras-Rouge river before climbing back up to the plateau. On the riverbed, enormous slabs of basalt form a curious and impressive feature nicknamed "La Chapelle". It’s a journey of two hours in each direction. A great hike for good walkers. Just before entering into Cilaos, take the route just opposite the cirque bakery (which sells reasonably-priced sandwiches). Then, follow the signs away from the main road. Sturdy shoes and plenty of water are a must. Also, consider bringing a second pair of shoes for crossing the waterfall, and don’t be scared to take a dip underneath the waterfall!
  • Le sentier des Sources. This is an easy-going little walk, taking about an hour and a half starting from the village of Bras-Sec. Be sure to bring water.
  • Forest walks. Cilaos boasts an important coverage of both primitive forestry (behind the church) and land reforested with Japanese cedars (Mare-à-Joseph canton, route de Bras-Sec). There are many well-maintained and well-signposted tracks here, leading to waterfalls, pools and picnic spots which will leave you spoiled for choice. Information can be obtained from the Tourist Information Centre in the town centre.
  • Notre-Dame-des-Neiges and the Père Boiteau. Among the island’s sacred architecture, Notre-Dame-des-Neiges is one of the jewels in the crown. The nave and chancel are noteworthy, and the woodwork is all the work of craftsmen from Rivière-Saint-Louis. The most illustrious figure at the church was the father Paul Boiteau, who arrived there in 1927, and died in 1947. A mystical ascetic, he was very close to the poor. He is buried in front of the church, and is remembered for the good deeds he granted unto his followers. The church can be seen from afar, so finding one’s way there should not be a problem.