Comoros

Mayotte is claimed by Comoros, but administered by France.

• 🌍 Moroni — the country's capital, on Grande Comore
• 🌍 Domoni — second largest city and former capital of Anjouan
• 🌍 Fomboni — the capital of Moheli
• 🌍 Nioumachoua — second largest town of Moheli, on the southern coast
• 🌍 Moutsamoudou — the capital of Anjouan

• 🌍 Mount Karthala — an active volcano and the highest peak in Comoros, famous for its crater.

All of the islands have many beautiful beach destinations, being Moheli the one that offers the best nature and water sports opportunities.

One of the world's poorest countries, Comoros is made up of three islands that have inadequate transportation links, a young and rapidly increasing population, and few natural resources.

Comoros is also the smallest nation in the Arab World by population.

The name Comoros originates from qamar, Arabic for moon.

The economy of the Comoros is agrarian and based on subsistence agriculture and fishing. Due to the low level of education of the workforce, unemployment is high. The country's main exports are vanilla, cloves and ylang-ylang. An important sector of the Comorian economy is remittances from emigrants; More Comorians live outside the country than inside, mainly in Mayotte, Réunion and in Metropolitan France, especially Marseille. Representing 25% of GDP, remittances from Comorian emigrants constitute an important source of flows for the country's economy.

The official languages are French and Arabic. Most Comorians speak their own language known as Shikomori (Comorian), which is a group of Swahili dialects, as a first language and French as a second. Some can also speak Arabic.

Finding a fluent English speaker is a very rare occurrence. However, an educated person will know a few words in English. Your best bet would be to learn French, which has a strong influence on media, education and business.

Each island has its own dialect. The greetings below are not necessarily direct translations.

Greetings nearly always follow this pattern:

Everyone requires a visa to visit to the Comoros, which is issued on arrival. A normal visa costs 15 000 CF (around €30). Children under 10 are free. It can be paid in Comorian francs (CF, or KMF), US dollars, British pounds or euros. A visa lasts 45 days, and can be extended, but only with a compelling reason (i.e. the authorities won't accept "I want to stay longer" as a reason).

As of April 2022, Comoros visa is issued on arrival at Moroni airport. Have the exact amount in cash, because change might not be given. There is a ATM just outside the airport terminal. Although it did not work in April 2022, so bring euros or US dollars when entering the country. The immigration paperwork asks that you list a place of residence for your stay in the Comoros, but it is not checked. After immigration, Customs officials may search your luggage.

• Lac Sale — salt lake adjacent to the beach on the north end of Grand Comore. A trail leads to the top of the rocks surrounding the lake. Along the road there is a small souvenir stand, usually selling ylang ylang oil, jackfruit perfume, jasmine and seashells. Ask the souvenir sellers to tell you about the lake and they'll be able to tell you about how they believe the water and algae from the lake cures acne (a 1 litre bottle of this mixture costs CF5000) and even take you down into the lake to show you the process.
• Dolphins off the coast beyond Hahaya
• Livingstone Bats at Moheli
• Giant Sea Turtles laying eggs at Itsamiya on Moheli
• Swahili-inspired architecture with arcades
• White sand beaches - Maloudja beach in Mitsamiouli is probably the most beautiful and most popular. Other popular beach destinations, some with bungalows nearby, include Ndroude and Bouni in the northeast of Grande Comore, Chomoni in the southeast, and Chindini in the south.
• Moroni old mosque and medina next to it famous for its narrow streets and maze-like architecture.
• Dragon's Tail - This impressive mountain peninsula jutting off of Grande Comore is located just outside the northeastern village of Ivoini and is a beautiful spectacle and an exciting hike.
• Turtle Island - also called Choua cha Ndroude in Shingazidja or Île des Tortues in French, this island is the only peripheral island surrounding Grande Comore located in the northeastern village of Ndroude. Depending on the time of the month, at low tide you can walk from the beach right to the island and spend a couple hours enjoying the sea breeze, taking in the sunshine, and watching local fishermen catch fish nearby. Bring footwear as the volcanic rocks get very hot in the sun.
• Palace of Kaviridjeo - built in the 16th century, these ruins in the village of Iconi just south of Moroni used to be the home of the Sultan of Bambao until the 19th century, when the final sultan, Said Ali bin Said Omar, united all the different sultanates on Grande Comore to form Ngazidja, then signed an agreement allowing the French to colonize the island. A large, modern mosque also sits across the street, featuring a large pool that fills at high tide and drains at low tide. Between the two is a small plaque memorializing the victims of a massacre led by former president Ali Soilih's youth brigade in the 1970s.
• The Moheli Marine Reserve off the coast of Nioumachoua, amongst the beautiful peripheral islands to the south.

• Treks such as the Karthala volcano crater (8 hours one way). Guides available for €100. This is possible to do as a one long day hike for €60 or overnight at a basecamp (a group of tin sheds)
• Cycling
• Deep sea diving, snorkelling
• Sailing on a dhow
• Swimming with dolphins - there are multiple places on Grande Comore that offer this, with Itsandra just north of Moroni being the most popular and costing CF10,000.
• Swimming with manta rays - an activity exclusive to Nioumachoua on Moheli, seeing the manta rays is often hit or miss, but the staff at Laka Lodge hotel can organize this trip and the guides are experts at seeking them out.
• Hiking - there are numerous places for this, including in the northeast of Grande Comore, where dozens of small mountains, most including small trails for farmers to reach their fields, dot the landscape; Chezani and other neighboring villages are good jumping-off points for this. You can also hike from Fomboni, the capital of Moheli, to Nioumachoua. It is a challenging and lengthy but beautiful and rewarding trek. Anjouan is also full of swooping peaks and gorgeous waterfalls ready to be climbed. A large, intimidating mountain also sits in the village of Iconi on Grande Comore and has a very simple path to the top with some impressive views of the village and surrounding area, though the beginning of the trail is hidden next to a small corner store and you'll probably have to ask a local to show you.

Visitors are advised not to eat any of the local food unless it has been cooked through. One speciality available on the island is the jackfruit, a large, green fruit (about 50 cm in length) with a taste resembling lychee.

As for a small island country surrounded by the Ocean, fish and seafood is the main quality food source for Comorians. Men sail away from the island early morning in boats to come back before dusk with a fish to sell.

Interesting food itinerary would be to observe men coming back from the sea with their catches. This is next to a harbour. Many locals are already hanging around there to buy fish, meet friends and just pass time. Sometimes fisherman returns with a bigger fishes for example swordfish. Later go to Volo Volo market to see the same fish being sold and butchered. As a conclusion to the trip, visit local restaurants throughout the city to taste sea goods. Daily menu will vary depending on the catch of the day.

Delicious and popular Comorian foods include:

• mabawa - chicken wings, usually coated in a marinade of dijon mustard, mayonnaise, peppers, garlic, salt, and onion, perhaps with other variations, and grilled. You'll find plenty of mabawa vendors at night in Moroni and many of the villages and especially around the Volovolo area. Often served with grilled breadfruit, cassava, or green bananas, as well as putu, a spicy pepper-based sauce that varies in heat, flavor, and color depending on who makes it and what other ingredients they include.
• trama - grilled corn, most available from January to April.
• madaba - cassava leaves, mashed with a huge mallet into a sort of paste with peppers, garlic, and other ingredients before being boiled and served with rice and sometimes with fish chopped up inside.
• mkatre foutra - a small, round, savory bread eaten for breakfast, usually sold for CF100 each.
• sambusa - the Comorian version of a samosa. Contains shredded fish and spices, though each person's sambusa will taste different. Depending on size and where you buy them, they can cost anywhere from CF25 to 100.

Nice, European-style restaurants exist in the capital and larger villages on all of the islands.

• 🌍 Le Coraya, Bandamadji, Itsandra, Grande Comore, ☏ +269 358 88 88. M-Th 08:00-23:30, F Sa 08:00-01:00, Su 09:00-23:45. It is in the village of Itsandra just north of Moroni, Le Coraya offers everything from burgers to pizza to pasta to seafood, as well as alcohol and hookah. Enjoy a relaxing meal as well as some of the best restaurant views in Comoros, as it sits right on the Indian Ocean next to the beach. €6-20 for a main. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Le Coraya Express, Boulevard de la République Populaire de China, Moroni (across the street from the Sawa Prix supermarket and the École Française Henri Matisse, a few blocks down from the French Embassy), ☏ +269 326 87 87. 10:30-22:00. A smaller version of Le Coraya with limited hours, a smaller menu, and a much less spectacular view. Especially known for its pizza and sandwiches. Another Le Coraya Express location is also inside the Hahaya airport. €4-9. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 New Mumbai, Rue de la Corniche, Hankounou, Moroni (across from the Alliance Française sits a gas station and a travel agency, with the entrance to the restaurant sandwiched in-between), ☏ +269 339 59 34. A quaint little restaurant serving Indian and Chinese food right by the ocean. Sitting by the ocean gives you the best sea breeze, but you also run the risk of seeing local men bathing naked in the water nearby. To get here from Moroni, tell a taxi driver you're going to Alliance Française, otherwise they likely won't know where to go. Mains €6-10. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 L'Escale, Rue de la Corniche, Moroni (across the street from the medical lab), ☏ +269 343 96 57. Su-Th 11:00-22:30, closed Friday. Classy restaurant featuring more traditional Comorian food and a lot of seafood, as well as sporadic live entertainment. As of spring 2020, bungalows are being constructed on the grounds. €6-12. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Wasta, Caltex, Moroni (on Rue Itsambuni, turn onto the side street that intersects directly across from the former airport), ☏ +269 358 77 75. 07:00-23:00. The closest thing to fast food you'll find in Comoros, Wasta has cheeseburgers, pizza, burritos, fries, and even birthday cakes. €3-10. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 MoCafe, Matelec Oasis, Moroni (up the street from the Alliance Française or down the street from the end of Volovolo), ☏ +269 773 22 06. M-Sa 07:00-23:00, Su 07:00-12:00. A stylish little cafe featuring lots of Comorian and French baked goods, as well as sandwiches, tea, sodas, and fresh juice. €2-6 for bread or a sandwich. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Nassib, Volovolo Market, Moroni (walking down the street through Volovolo it's about halfway through). 06:00-22:00. A combination cafe and restaurant in the middle of Volovolo, the porch outside is the best place to sit for a tea and traditional bread in the morning or a delicious burger and fries in the afternoon. Other Nassib franchises are located in a few other locations in Moroni. €2-8 for a bread or a full meal. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Tennis Club, Rue de la Corniche, Moroni, ☏ +269 436 11 03. Combination restaurant, bar, and actual tennis club. Serves some of the best Western cuisine in Comoros, as well as some of the best wine. Sit down for a nice meal or go to play a game of tennis on their courts. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Chez Nini, Sima-Maloudja, Mitsamiouli, Grande Comore (From the RN 1 in Mitsamiouli, follow the dirt path near the beach toward the wedding hall until you reach the restaurant.), ☏ +269 430 05 15. Tu-Th 17:00-22:00, F Su 11:00-22:00, Sa 11:00-00:00, closed Monday. A bit hidden from the main road in Mitsamiouli but on the way to the best beach in town, Chez Nini offers seafood, chicken, traditional local vegetable dishes, desserts, and alcohol. They also hold different events and parties for special occasions like the New Year, so keep an eye on their Facebook page around days like that to see if anything exciting is going on. From Tuesday to Thursday only the bar is open and food will not be served. €6-12. (updated May 2020)

Alcohol is readily available in Moroni from Indian and Chinese merchants near Volo Volo. Castle beer from South Africa and cheap boxed wine from France are common. Most higher-end restaurants will sell alcohol and there are a couple of liquor stores in Moroni; you can find places to buy alcohol because they usually have a green Heineken sign outside.

Tap water is not safe to drink, and bottled water is cheap (1.5 liters for CF400) and readily available everywhere. Despite the risks associated with the water, locally made juices are very delicious, especially tamarind, ntsongoma (strawberry guava), pineapple, and guava.

In a pinch, you can probably find a friendly local who will welcome you into their home for the night. Ask if they prefer you to pay them for food and/or lodging. Sometimes people are welcoming you as an honoured guest and consequently it would be odd to pay.

• 🌍 Karthala International Hotel, Mvouni, Grande Comore (on the street connecting the suburban villages of Mkazi and Mvouni, right next to the University of the Comoros), ☏ +269 763 5212. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. USD60. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Golden Tulip Resort (formerly Hotel Itsandra), RN 1, Voidjou, Moroni, ☏ +269 773 3333. On the borders between Moroni and the neighbouring villages of Itsandra and Ntsoudjini, Golden Tulip offers luxurious rooms and bungalows, air conditioning, Wifi, a kitchen and bar, and a private beach with a €4 Eentrance fee. US$104 for a double room. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Retaj, Avenue Soilihi, Moroni (at the roundabout down the street from the Sawa Prix supermarket, turn right and Retaj is located at the end of the street), ☏ +269 773 52 78. Probably one of the nicest hotels in Comoros, Retaj is often host to Comorian expats, foreign tourists and international businessman. Features a gym, access to the ocean, some of the best pizza in Comoros, a free breakfast buffet for guests (6 EUR for non-guests) and ylang ylang-scented shampoo in the rooms. US$60 for a double room. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Moifaka Hotel, Zilimadjou, Moroni, ☏ +269 773 15 56, hotelmoifaka@yahoo.fr. One of the few "budget" hotels in Comoros located not too far from the Retaj. You definitely won't be staying here for the amenities: simple rooms, air conditioning, Wifi, limited TV, small free breakfast and a kitchen for guests, nice airy enclosed balconies on two floors and a large rooftop with nice views of Karthala. US$26 for a double room. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Hôtel Les Arcades, Rue de la Corniche, Moroni (down the street from the end of Volovolo and not far from restaurants on Rue de la Corniche.), ☏ +269 331 50 51, hotel_les_arcades@hotmail.fr. More conveniently located than its fancier counterparts Retaj and Golden Tulip, Les Arcades offers simple rooms with air conditioning, Wifi, free breakfast, a gym, meeting rooms and a beautiful garden. US$40-50 for a double room. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Laka Lodge, Nioumachoua, Moheli, ☏ +269 342 29 60, info@lakalodge.com. Probably the nicest hotel on Moheli, Laka Lodge offers gorgeous rooms and bungalows, Wifi, a restaurant and lots of activities, including snorkelling, swimming with dolphins and manta rays, scuba diving and the chance to spot some lemurs in the grounds. (updated May 2020)

Learning facilities on the islands, like most facilities, are underdeveloped. There are several schools on the island of Grand Comore, and one college. These are all severely lacking in resources and funding.

By some reckoning, this is the third poorest country in the world and workers can expect to earn only about US$1-1.5 a day for basic employment.

Comoros is a really safe country. You will feel safe walking on your own on an empty street late at night, even if you are a woman, and it is very unlikely that you will suffer any kind of theft. However, as pavements and city lights are scarce, take caution if you are walking on the road side, especially on weekend nights.

The political situation can be tense, especially in Anjouan island, where there are clashes between rebel and African Union forces. Some state that a civil war is possible. In October 2018, not long after the celebration of a referendum that reinforced the power of the president, Moutsamoudou suffered a week-long period of strike and revolts that ended with several dead.

Cyclones possible during rainy season (December to April).

Le Kartala on Grand Comore is an active volcano.

Most countries' diplomatic presence in Comoros is carried out through embassies located in nearby Madagascar, Kenya, Tanzania, Mauritius, or South Africa, though a few countries do operate full embassies or other diplomatic offices in the Comoros.

• Embassy of France, Boulevard de Strasbourg, BP 465, Moroni, ☏ +269 773 06 15. M-Th 07:45-12:30, 14:00-17:30, F 07:45-13:30, Closed Sa Su. (updated May 2020)
  • Consulate-General of France in Mutsamudu, Mutsamudu, Anjouan, ☏ +269 771 40 27. (updated May 2020)
  • Honorary Consulate of France in Fomboni, Fomboni, Moheli, ☏ +269 772 01 46, nourdine.matoire@yahoo.fr. (updated May 2020)
• Embassy of the People's Republic of China, Coulée de Lave No. C109, Moroni, ☏ +269 773 25 21, CHINAEMB_KM@MFA.GOV.CN. (updated May 2020)
• Embassy of Libya, Rue de la Corniche, BP 1787, Moroni (across the street from the presidential palace, Beit-Salam, in the very north of the city. Hard to find as its map locations are outdated), ☏ +269 773 29 10. (updated May 2020)
• Embassy of Saudi Arabia, Cable De Leon, Moroni, ☏ +269 773 58 45. (updated May 2020)
• Embassy of South Africa, Voidjou, Moroni, ☏ +269 332 19 97. (updated May 2020)
• Embassy of Sudan, Zilimadjou, Moroni, ☏ +269 773 99 17. (updated May 2020)
• Embassy of Tanzania, Oasis, BP 8141, Moroni, ☏ +269 773 78 59, moroni@nje.go.tz. (updated May 2020)
• Honorary Consulate of Turkey (TİKA - Moroni Program Coordination Office), Paramboini, Route Beit Salam, BP 2492, Moroni, ☏ +269 773 25 53, moroni@tika.gov.tr. (updated May 2020)

For foreign visitors who do not hold one of the above nationalities, the following select embassies will provide assistance while you're in Comoros.

• Embassy of the United States of America in Madagascar, Lot 207 A - Andranoro - Antehiroka, 105 Antananarivo, ☏ +261 20 23 480 00. (updated May 2020)
• British High Commission to Mauritius, 7th floor, Cascades Building, Edith Cavell Street, P.O. box 1063, Port Louis, ☏ +230 2029400. (updated May 2020)
• Australian High Commission to Mauritius, 2nd Floor, Rogers House, 5 President Kennedy Street, Port Louis, ☏ +230 2020160, ahc.portlouis@dfat.gov.au. (updated May 2020)
• High Commission of Canada to Tanzania, 38 Mirambo Street / Garden Avenue, Dar es Salaam, ☏ +255 22 211-2831, DSLAMCS@international.gc.ca. (updated May 2020)
• Embassy of Brazil in Tanzania, Coco Plaza Office Complex - 2nd Floor - Rooms 201/202 Plot nr. 254, Toure Drive, Msasani Peninsula PO Box 105818 - 14111, Dar es Salaam, ☏ +255 22 260 2660. (updated May 2020)
• Embassy of Japan in Madagascar, Villa Chrysanthème III, Ambohijatovo-Analamahitsy, 101 Antananarivo (B.P.3863), ☏ +261 20-22-493-57. (updated May 2020)

Malaria, including cerebral malaria, is prevalent in the Comoros. Sleep under a permethrin-treated mosquito net and take an anti-malarial. Grand Comore and Anjouan have the best medical infrastructure and you can be tested for malaria in most major towns. If you get a fever, it is wise to get tested, especially if the fever does not respond to paracetamol or does not go away. Moheli has a hospital in Fomboni. The one in Nioumachoua may occasionally be accessible.

Healthy food is not difficult to find. Eat many fruits and vegetables as well as rice. During some time of the year vegetables might be only available in small quantities in Moheli. A healthy and delicious local dish is madaba; pounded and boiled manioc leaves. But madaba takes hours to prepare, so you may not find it in restaurants. If you are fortunate enough to stay or eat with a local family, you might get to try madaba. Vegetarians should be aware that on Grand Comore locals put fish in the madaba, while on Moheli they do not. Women may experience cessation or alteration of their menstrual cycle due to poor nutrition if they stay in the Comoros for several months or longer.

Tap water is drinkable according to the National Tourism Office, however the CDC states that it is not drinkable.

Although the Comoros is a rather liberal Muslim country, it is disrespectful for women to expose their shoulders, much of their chest, knees, and especially stomach and lower back. Wear shirts or shawls that cover these areas. Locals will not expect foreign, non-Muslim women to cover their heads. When swimming, local women are fully dressed. Foreigners are not expected to do this, but shorts and a swimming shirt is more respectful than a bikini or topless swimming. Men should wear shorts below the knee, though a man wearing shorter shorts is less offensive than a woman doing so. Public affection between men and women is not acceptable, though one may rarely see a Comorian man and woman holding hands briefly (in the nightclubs some locals seem to ignore Muslim convention).

Non-Muslim religious proselytizing is illegal, as is giving Bibles to locals. Locals are very tolerant and friendly towards non-Muslims, but do not attempt to convert them.

Drinking alcohol in public is disrespectful, though it occurs in nightclubs. Restaurants generally do not serve alcohol unless they cater to foreigners.

To greet an elder, you say "kwesi". The elder says something like "mbona, mkana baraka" to which you respond "salaama".

It is a big mistake to hand out sweets to children on the street. Since locals are unused to tourists, this rarely occurs and they are usually just happy to talk with you, children included. Once tourists begin handing out gifts and money, locals will see Westerners as rich and free with money, destroying many opportunities for a human connection with them. Children will harass tourists for sweets and money. Tourists who do this are showing themselves to be disrespectful of locals, such as by assuming that money/sweets is what they want from tourists and by putting that in between them rather than making an effort to get to know locals, and ignorant of the consequences of their actions.

Since, allegedly, it was discovered that a Western man, resident of Grand Comore for 14 years, had been making pornographic videos and photographs, as well as violating children on the islands, the residents are quite averse to being filmed or photographed. Individual reactions may vary upon being photographed, but taking unauthorised photographs of the locals will, at best, offend an individual and can potentially lead to violent reactions by the subject.