Consett

"Consett" derives from Cunecsheafod, Cunec's headland - it's on a steep bank above the River Derwent at 900 ft / 270 m elevation, distinctly chilly in winter. It was an insignificant hamlet until the 18th century, then mushroomed with industries based on the local coal, iron ore and limestone. Britain's earliest steel industry was here, specialising in "sharps" such as swords and cutlery until Sheffield captured that trade. In the 20th century its main product was steel plates and girders for construction and ship-building, and its skies were a red haze of iron ore dust and furnace smoke. In the late 20th century British steel became uneconomic, in spite of subsidy, and an entire way of life here collapsed when the steelworks closed.

By road from the south follow A1 to Scotch Corner then A68 to Castleside then A692 into Consett. You could also stay on A1 to Durham then take A690 / A691.

The nearest railway stations are in Newcastle upon Tyne and Durham, both on the London Kings Cross - Edinburgh main line, and with buses to Consett. A taxi from either might cost £40-50 in 2024. There's talk of restoring the railway, axed in 1980, but nothing's happened.

Go Northeast Bus X45 runs from Newcastle every 30 min, taking an hour via Metrocentre, Winlaton Mill, Rowlands Gill, Ebchester, Shotley Bridge and Blackhill. X71 runs hourly and takes an hour via Gateshead`, Lobley Hill, Sunniside, Burnopfield, Medomsley and Leadgate.

Bus X5 / X15 runs from Durham every 30 min, taking 40 min via University Hospital, Witton Gilbert and Lanchester, and continuing to Castleside.

Bus 78 runs from Sunderland every 30 min, taking almost two hours via Chester-le-Street, Stanley and Leadgate.

🌍 Consett Bus Station is central in town. It's a covered mall.

You need wheels to get out of the grubby town and enjoy the moors and Derwent Valley. Roads are switchback as they cross the valleys of rivers flowing out of the moors - cyclists will especially enjoy screeching on the brakes on A68 below Castleside while contemplating the grinding ascent ahead.

Taxis in town are Atlas (+44 1207 509770) and Consett Cars (+44 1207 502277), both based at the bus station.

• Christ Church is at 62 Middle St, 100 yards west of the bus station. It was built in 1866 with a squat cod-Norman tower, which is at risk of collapse.
• Industrial remains lie here and there - remnants of foundries and their heavy equipment.
• 🌍 Terris Novalis is a sculpture on the site of Consett Steel Works, closed in 1980. It's two metal structures, a theodolite and an engineer's level, 20 ft tall and visible for miles around. Terris Novalis means "newly cultivated land" and is meant to symbolise the remediation of this brownfield area. It's on C2C coast-to-coast cycle path and accessible 24 hours.
• 🌍 Wharnley Burn Waterfall is reached by a short but quaggy walk west up the riverbank from the A68 bridge. Gorgeous colours here in autumn.
• Allensford Foundry is crumbling masonry seen from the riverside going east from the bridge.
• 🌍 Ebchester completely buries a Roman fort and settlement; it's named for Æbbe of Coldingham who only turned up in the 7th century. St Ebba's church is 11th century, re-using stone from the fort.
• 🌍 Derwentcote Steel Furnace is one of Britain's oldest. An iron works stood here from 1719, but you need to add just the right trace of carbon to turn iron into steel, far stronger. A "cementation" plant was built here in the 1730s, using Swedish iron ore to make high-grade cutlery. Cementation was the main technology in 18th century England until supplanted by "puddling", which reduced rather than added carbon, and which in turn was replaced by Bessemer blast furnaces. Derwentcote closed in the 1880s, as it was obsolete and with poor transport. It's simply a large cottage off A694, free to view outside any time but with no interior access. English Heritage conduct guided walks around this area.

• Empire theatre and cinema is at 5 Front St, 100 yards south of the bus station.
• Consett Leisure Centre has a pool, gym and fitness classes. It's on B6308 Medomsley Rd a quarter mile north of town centre.
• Golf: Consett & District GC is on Elmfield Rd north side of town. White tees 6083 yards, par £71.
• Football is played in the amateur leagues. Consett AFC play soccer at Bellevue east side of town. Consett RFC play rugby union at the leisure centre. Consett Steelers play rugby league at the leisure centre, with a March-October season.
• Derwent Walk follows a former railway track for 12½ miles beside the River Derwent. From Consett and Shotley Bridge it heads northeast via Gibside to Derwenthaugh Country Park near Gateshead Metro Centre.

• Supermarkets: Aldi is on Front St west of town centre, open M-Sa 8AM-10PM, Su 10AM-4PM. Morrisons is further down the street at the junction with A692 and has a filling station.

These are mostly just north of the bus station.

• The Old Courthouse, Victoria Rd DH8 5AX, ☏ +44 1207 438148. W Th 4-10PM, F noon-1AM, Sa 9AM-1PM, Su 9AM-5PM. Classic pub fare. (updated Mar 2024)
• Sambuca is within Britannia Shops at 27 Victoria Rd, open Tu-Th noon-3PM, 4-9PM, F Sa noon-10PM, Su noon-8PM.
• The Old Mill, Knitsley serves non-residents, see below.

• Front Street just south of the bus station is the main strip. Here are The Company Row (below), The Barn 2, The Black Horse, Bar 1, The Whistle Blower, Turfed Oot Cafe and Chaplains.
• The Company Row, Victoria Centre DH8 5BQ, ☏ +44 1207 585600. Su-Th 8AM-midnight, F Sa 8AM-1AM. Reliable JD Wetherspoon pub for inexpensive food and ale. (updated Mar 2024)

• 🌍 Crown & Crossed Swords, Front St, Shotley Bridge DH8 0HU, ☏ +44 1207 502006. Pub with rooms, simple but acceptable, most customers are simply here for a meal. In 2024 it hosts meetings of a far-right party, so some visitors feel uncomfortable, but those party views chime well in hundreds of pubs in run-down post-industrial towns so they're an authentic slice of northern English life. And it's obviously the fault of the "woke brigade", dastardly European Union and parasitic immigrants that they can't afford to put up at Derwent Manor. B&B double £90. (updated Mar 2024)
• 🌍 The Old Mill, Butsfield Lane, Knitsley DH8 9EL, ☏ +44 1207 581642. Simple rooms in a charming converted mill house. B&B double £90. (updated Mar 2024)
• 🌍 Derecroft Glamping, Woodside Bank, Lanchester DH8 7TG (On A691), ☏ +44 7548 151360. Swish comfy glamping pods at an equestrian centre, open all year. Now we only need yurts and Consett's economic regeneration will be complete. Pod £180 pn. (updated Mar 2024)
• 🌍 Derwent Manor, Allensford DH8 9BB (on A68), ☏ +44 1207 592000. Great reviews for this upscale hotel above Derwent valley, with 56 rooms and 4 cottages. B&B double £130. (updated Mar 2024)
• Derwentside by the A68 bridge at Allensford has long-stay caravan pitches but nothing for short-stay tourers or campers.

• Lord Crewe Arms further up Derwent Valley gets rave reviews, see Corbridge#Sleep.

As of March 2024, Consett and its approach roads have a basic mobile signal from O2, and 4G from EE, Three and Vodafone. 5G has not reached this area.

• Beamish open-air museum is 10 miles east near Stanley.
• Hadrian's Wall courses along the Tyne Valley 15 miles north. You can pick up the path at Heddon-on-the-Wall, but Roman ruins are only substantial from Corbridge west towards Brampton.
• Durham is a must-see for its medieval cathedral and castle perched on a river peninsula.
• Head into Newcastle for big city amusements and a surprisingly elegant early 19th century townscape.