Cumbuco

Cumbuco is a beach village of about 25,000 inhabitants in Ceará, some 30 km west of Fortaleza. It has been discovered by European developers, and small resorts are popping up. Larger projects are in the pipeline, such as a golf course and a beach volleyball arena with a training camp for players. To the west you can see the modern and steadily growing port of Pecém. Built by Companhia Siderúrgica do Pecém, a joint venture between Brazilian and South Korean companies, it has brought many Korean workers to Cumbuco. Thus, Korean letters can be seen throughout the village. With a steel mill and petroleum refinery to come, it promises a certain impact on the region.

Get in
  • From Fortaleza there are buses from Clube Ideal, leaving at 09:00, 11:00, 15:50 and 18:20. These first go all the way to the fish market along Beira Mar, then come back along Avenida Abolição and Avenida Historiador Raimundo Girão. About 1 hour, R$ 4,50. From Cumbuco, buses leave the main square at 06:30, 10:00, 14:35 and 17:00. More frequent buses to/from Av. do Imperador in the center of Fortaleza.

All buses pass by the suburban beach of Icaraí.

  • To get anywhere else by bus, you need to go to the center of nearby Caucaia.
  • Taxis to Fortaleza can be negotiated at R$ 50-80, often included waiting time and return to Cumbuco same day.

Get around

You can walk mostly anywhere. The local taxi stand is one block west of the main square. Negotiate prices up front. Buggies can also be hired for short runs, but are mostly more expensive than cabs.

Do
  • This is one of the best spots in the world for kite surfing. Several places rent equipment and give classes.
  • Horseback riding along the beach.
  • A jangada (traditional fishing raft with sail) will take you a kilometer or so into the sea to give you a different view of the beach. Nice photos from out there. R$ 10 or less per person.
  • A buggy with a driver can be rented for a day for about R$ 150, -fits 3-4 passengers. It will take you to 2-3 different fresh water lakes for swimming, and also for a ride up and down some dunes.
  • You can also rent a buggy and drive it yourself, but you will not have access to the dunes. It is prohibited to drive on the beach, but this is not enforced.
  • Rent an ATV to make sure that you disturb other people's beach experience.

Eat

Prices vary greatly. Lunch can be had from R$ 5 at a number of tiny local restaurants.

  • Muda, SW corner of the square. breakfast until late. Good for breakfast and light lunch. Drinking in the evenings. Chill music Light dishes R$ 10-15. 
  • Sabor da Praia (Just uphill from Bistro). Mains around R$ 25. 
  • Gaucho (Just uphill from Bistro). Loads of grilled meats Fill up for R$ 15. 
  • Living, R. Almirante Pedro de Frontim, 11 (Entrance to the village, on the right hand side.). Food and lounge. Open evenings only, from Monday to Saturday. Happy Hour daily from 17:00 to 20:30. 

Drink

What little action there is into the wee hours, all happens along the side streets of the main square:

  • Laranja Mecanica. Small beer R$4. 
  • 0031 restaurant, Rua Almirante Tamarandi s/n (at the beach), ☏ +55 86 179 119. From 18:00. International restaurant which is already a well known place. Nice ambiance and tasty food. R$ 25. 
  • Secret Spot, Next door to Gaucho. Open evenings only. International menu with strong Italian influence. R$ 20. 

Sleep

Loads and loads of apartments for rent, mostly in the mid and upper range. Good deals can be found outside the peak and kiting seasons.

Mid-range

Splurge
  • Kariri Beach (200 m west of the main square.). Good restaurant, large pool area right at the beach. Larger rooms have kitchens. Singles from R$ 150. 
  • Vila Gale (At the western outskirts of the village). Allegedly the largest hotel in the state, this is a full-scale resort. Golf course coming up next. 

Cope

There is an ATM in the small bakery at the east end of the village, just around the corner from the main square. It is open until around 18:00. The only other ATM in the area is at a gas station (open every day 07:00-22:00, probably the only one ever seen selling kite surfing gear) some 25 minutes walk in the direction of Fortaleza. Any bus leaving from Cumbuco's main square passes by.

Connect

Slow internet in a couple of shops at R$ 2/hour.

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