Cuzco

Has two defined seasons. The dry season: from April to October, with abundant sunshine. The wet season lasts from November to March (in February the Inca Trail is closed).

More information on Cuzco is available from the official Tourist Office:

• Directur, Portal Blankets 117 (near the Plaza de Armas), ☏ +51 84 223701. (updated Aug 2015)

• 🌍 Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport (CUZ  ^IATA), Av Valesco Astete S/N (The airport is 5 km east of el Centro de Historico via 28 de Julio and Av Valesco Astete. Approximately 16-20 min east by taxi from el Centro de Historico.). (updated Dec 2021) The small airport serves mainly domestic flights and some limited international connections. Travelers typically connect through Lima to reach Cusco with the following airlines:

• Avianca (Bogota, La Paz)
• Latam (Arequipa, Puerto Maldonado, Lima, and Santiago de Chile)
• JetSmart (Arequipa, Lima)
• Sky Peru (Lima)

With only 5 gates and a few off the main terminal, this airport is fairly small but because it sees thousands of tourists a day, with restaurants and shops before and after security. Massage facilities and communication services are also available. There are a few ATMs in the check-in area. If you have time, look across the parking lot for last-minute shopping. Construction for a larger airport is underway in Chinchero (30.5 km NW of Cusco). The new Chinchero airport will include additional international flights from outside of Peru and to accommodate more travelers entering the area.

The market rate for a taxi from the airport to the Centro Historico is around S/15 (soles), not S/30 or more as the 'official' airport taxis may try to charge you. The ticket desks for official are by the exit doors before exiting the building with their drivers outside the doors. It is best to use the unofficial cabs and expect to pay around S/10-15 without much trouble. To find these taxis, exit the airport through the main gate and go to the street that is in front of the airport. Head right on the right-hand-side of the street for around 50 m until you hit the taxi stand.

The airport opens at 03:00 in the morning, so if you have to leave early in the morning, do not arrive before 03:00, if so, You will have to wait outside the airport (and it is pretty dark).

The 🌍 Terminal Terrestre is on Avenida Vía de Evitamiento # 429, a 2.5 km walk (40 min) southeast from el Centro Historico on Avenida El Sol and San Martin. You can also take a taxi for a few soles. The toilet in the terminal is S/1 at the first level and free for the other one on the second level.

Buses are plentiful to and from other Peruvian and Bolivian cities like Lima (about 22 hr), Puno (6-8 hr), Arequipa (10 hr, S/25 (off season), S/40-S/120), Nasca (14-16 hr), Copacabana (9-12 hr, S/60) and La Paz (12-15 hr, S/90) but are quite long and slow, although the views can compensate. The main roads are mostly quite good, but some can be bad, making trips take longer than expected.

Buses in Peru are not operated to first world standards, especially the cheaper ones. The drivers work long hours and poor maintenance is common. There are frequent accidents, often with fatalities. If you are of nervous disposition, stick with the more upmarket companies.

Peru Hop offers high-end buses to Puno, La Paz, Arequipa, Lima, and places in between. It's geared towards tourists, with stops where you can choose to hop off for sightseeing along the way to Cuzco and back.

Also, make sure your bus has a bathroom or that it stops for bathroom breaks every couple of hours before you buy tickets. There are Puno-Cuzco buses that have/do neither, and that can mean a very long 6–8 hours.

• Expreso Los Chankas, Pje Cáceres 150. One of the only companies to offer direct service from Ayacucho to Cuzco. S/55 for a 22-hr ride on a semi-cama bus. Buses at 06:30 and 21:00.

Cuzco is connected to Machu Picchu and Puno by rail. Rail service to Arequipa has been discontinued. Service is operated by PeruRail and Inca Rail. Trains to Machu Picchu (more exactly to Aguas Calientes below), generally operate from Poroy railway station.

• 🌍 San Pedro railway station (Estación San Pedro). (updated Apr 2021)
• 🌍 Poroy railway station (Estación Poroy) (Northwest of Cuzco, 20 min by taxi from downtown.). (updated Apr 2021)

• Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo. In the Municipal Palace at Plaza Regocijo, this museum has exhibitions of contemporary art. Admission with the boleto turistico 
• 🌍 Museo Historico Regional. In the home of the Inca historian Garcilaso de la Vega, this museum has many paintings from the 17th and 18th century. 
• Machu Picchu Museum (Museo Machu Picchu, Casa Concha), 320 Santa Catalina Ancha. M-Sa 09:00-17:00. The largest collection of Machu Picchu artifacts in the world. These artifacts were collected by Yale University researcher Hiram Bingham beginning in 1912 and returned to Peru in 2011. The museum is housed in a late 18th-century house. Foreigners S/20, international students and Peruvians with ID S/10, Peruvian students S/5. (updated Mar 2018)
• Museo del Centro de Textiles Tradicionales de Cusco, Av Sol. No. 603. A beautiful (and free) museum inside El Centro's textile store featuring a gallery containing displays of traditional Quechuan and Andean textiles. The museum explains the historical significance of textiles and the techniques by which they are made. A must-see, and visitors can buy the traditional textiles as they come in. A large majority of the money goes to the women who produce them, and the textiles are of much higher quality than the synthetic and machine-woven textiles found throughout the city. 
• Museo del Sitio del Qoricancha, Av Sol. With information about the different pre-Columbian cultures and fragments of ceramics and textiles of the Inca culture. A very small museum, the showcase room includes three mummies and skulls modified by the Incas with holes or sloped foreheads. Allow an hour to an hour and a half. English explanations are present but lacking. S/15. 
• Museo de Arte Popular (in the basement of the OFEC office). Displays a collection of popular art. 
• Galleries; the stunning scenery of the Cuzco area are often very well depicted by local artists. It is possible to find cheap prints that are of surprisingly good quality if you're prepared to shop around.
• Santa Catalina Convent. Also a collection of religious art. Admission with the boleto turistico. 
• 🌍 Qoricancha (The Sun Temple) (4 blocks from Plaza de Armas on Av. El Sol). The central site of worship for the Incas. Like so many other testimonies of fantastic Inca architecture, it was severely devastated by the conquistadores, the Spanish conquerors, who built their Christian church, Santo Domingo, on top of the ruins. Yet most of the bottom part of the temple is fairly well preserved and makes the site worth several hours of your time. The site is one of the best in Cuzco, or Qosqo in the Quechua language, containing both Catholic and Inca heritage with stunning views of the surrounding area. Looking at the outside from Avenida del Sol, you get a perfect view of the church standing on the temple and you see the differences of the Inca and the Spanish way of building. Qoricancha also is the starting point of the yearly processions at Inti Raymi, the Sun Festival, in the remembrance of the Inca tradition of celebrating the winter solstice. This procession then moves all the way up to Saxayhuamán. In order to understand, especially the remarkable remains in the Inca section, a guided tour is advisable. S/15. 
• ChocoMuseo, Calle Garcilaso 210, ☏ +51 84 24 47 65. 11:00-21:00. A shop ("museum") explaining the history of cacao (free) and offering chocolate workshops (not free) as well as cacao farm tours (not free). Different recipes from around the world are available all made with chocolate from the factory inside the cacao and chocolate museum. Great artisanal and organically sourced hot chocolate. Free. 
• 🌍 Museo Inka, Cuesta del Almirante 103, ☏ +51 84 237380. M–F 08:00–18:00, Sa 09:00–16:00. Extensive museum of pre-Inca, Inca, and colonial artifacts. Labels in English and Spanish, though the descriptions in English are sometimes pretty different from the ones in Spanish. S/10. (updated Dec 2017)

• The stone walls of the city are Inca, particularly near the Plaza de Armas. Unlike the colonial walls, they typically have stones with very straight lines and no mortar.

• 🌍 Piedra de los doce ángulos (Twelve-angle stone), Hatun Rumiyoc. A large stone in one wall has 12 sides and 12 angles. This one has become almost a symbol of Cusco and is a striking example of the precision of Inca architecture and stonework. (updated Dec 2017)

• 🌍 Monumento Pachacuteq. Down Av. Sol, is a statue of the Inca warrior King Pachacuteq. The statue is placed on a cylindrical base and the total monument is over 22 m high. The cylindrical base can be climbed, but views are disappointing because the monument is in a lower part of town. Admission with the boleto turistico. 
• 🌍 Cusco Cathedral (Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin). The biggest church in Cuzco, in front of Plaza de Armas. As a tourist the entrance is S/25. If you go in a "misa" (mass) between 06:30-09:00, it is free. S/25. (updated May 2015)
• 🌍 Palacio Inka del Kusikancha (Dirección Desconcentrada de Cultura de Cusco), Calle Maruri 324. M–F 07:15–13:00, 14:00–16:00. The ruins of an Inca palace, the home of 15th-century Inca emperor Pachakuti Inka Yupanki, which you can walk around in. The Inca and colonial stonework and architecture is interesting. No admission fee, but the attendant who lets you in and shows you where to go expects a S/5 tip. (updated Dec 2017)

• 🌍 Plaza de Armas. The park square has churches, shops, restaurants and bars surrounding it, and is a great place to spend an afternoon. The historical center of Cuzco is beautiful, but you will have to deal with all the street vendors and hawkers of cheap paintings and other souvenirs. They are everywhere in and around the Plaza de Armas. They somewhat spoil the experience. (updated Nov 2020)
• Get a massage. You will invariably be propositioned by young ladies handing out flyers advertising massages, especially near the Plaza de Armas. These are legit, only cost S/15-20 for 1 hour, but are not done by trained masseuses. Still, for the price it can't be beat.
• 🌍 Plaza de San Francisco,. Which is a few blocks southwest of the center, and is a great place to visit one of Cuzco's many great coffee shops. Next to the Plaza is the main market, which is fairly traditional and is a worthwhile visit. The market has a mix of stalls selling food and other household items as well as clothing and souvenirs. 
• Play Sapo, a traditional bar game played in chicharias all over Peru. The game involves throwing small coins, called fichas, at a table with a bronze sapo (toad) attached. You get points for making it into holes on the table, and a ton of points for making it into the sapo's mouth. Best played while drinking chicha (corn beer) at a local dive. Ask old men to show you the correct throwing form, as it's difficult to master.
• Talk to local store owners, curators, waitresses and bartenders. They typically know a little English if your Spanish is not good, and are generally happy to share interesting information about the city not found in guidebooks. This is also a great way to find the best places to try cuy, alpaca, and chicha.
• Once you are accustomed to the altitude, go for a jog! This is a very humbling experience, as the hills and thin air prove a challenge to even those in great shape. It's also a good way to explore. Head east or south of the plaza for the safest places. If you're a woman out exercising, you may get a few cat calls, as this is common in much of Latin America.
• 🌍 Salseros Cusco. Take a Salsa class, or three. This is a fabulous little salsa school offering private and group classes at minimal price in two central locations. With enthusiastic teachers and a number of styles taught, this is the perfect time to polish your moves and get ready to shine on the dance floor. Ask for Franshesco Efernetti if you want private classes. 
• Plan trekking or other excursions in the area. The wealth of agencies and tour companies make Cuzco a good place to gather information and compare prices.
• Ladies in traditional clothing carrying baby alpacas will come up to you and ask if you want a photo. They will charge you S/5 for this. They might charge double if you take a picture with more than one lady. Beware, some of the supposed baby alpacas are actually baby goats or sheep.
• 🌍 Planetario Cuzco (pickup from Plaza Regocijo), ☏ +51 84 231 710, info@planetariumcusco.com. 18:00. Information about Inka astronomy, projection and explanation of the southern sky in the dome, observing stars/planets/other objects with telescopes. S/75. (updated Aug 2019)

Most day trips from Cuzco follow the following format: between 07:00 and 09:00, you are picked up from your hotel or you meet with your group in a public plaza very near to Plaza de Armas, or at the front door of the agency with which you booked the tour, which is also very likely to be near Plaza de Armas. Then you drive for 1–2 hours to your destination. The day ends back where it started, at 15:00-16:00. In practice this means that you can do only one day trip per day and that it will most likely occur during the beginning part of the day. An exception to this is the day tour of Cuzco which starts later, around 13:00. For all these trips, ask in your hotel if you want them to call travel agencies.

• Day Trip City Tour or the Four Archaeological Ruins Tour bus around S/25 (Sacsayhuamán, Qenko, Pukapukara and Tambomachay) from 13:00 to 19:00. Alternatively, a local combi (bus) goes between the city and the four sites and costs S/1 to ride. Look for the bus that says "Huerto".

🌍 Sacsayhuamán. The closest and largest of these ruins is the amazing Sacsayhuamán (sometimes called Saqsaywaman and pronounced "Sock-say-wah-mun"), the ruins of an Inca fortress high above Cuzco. It is a steep climb from the Plaza de Armas up Plateros street which changes to Saphi. Look for the long staircase on the right, follow the paved curvy road up to the next cobblestone pedestrian path and follow this climb past the first closed control point to the second control. No need to take a cab if you can handle it. But, be careful, as robberies have been reported in mornings and evenings. There is a charge to explore the ruins at the second control or present your boleto turistico. Those on a budget can get a sense of the ruins without paying by walking up the hill and up to the entrance. You can then walk to the adjacent hill with the big Jesus on it and look down on the city. The sheer size of the stones that were moved and the importance of the battle there make it worth entrance fee. Even though only 20% of the fortress remains, the ruins are huge—budget at least two hours for exploring them. They include a dark tunnel you can walk through and a sloped rock that kids love to use as a slide. Read up on the battle beforehand as the guides don't discuss it. Also, a view of the circular base of the former tower as shown in many of the photos is not possible due to the protective ropes. Go earlier in the morning as later visits are disrupted a bit by whistles from guards telling unobservant tourists to get off the ruins. Or go even more early (before 07:00) and get in for free (2013). 

🌍 Qenko (Q'enqo). The second site up the road from Sacsayhuamán. Take the combi shared buses up the hill for S/1 or take a walk of about 0.5–1 km up a gradual incline to visit the site. Its name means "Zig-Zag" in Quechua, and probably refers to the Zig-Zag channels carved into a rock. Explore the pass through cave and view the altar on which llamas were sacrificed. The large erect stone shown on the boleto turistico is a solar calendar. On each side of the stone is a square wall two stones high. Each stone is representative of a number of days, the total is the total days in the year. Opposite the stone are the familiar windows in which mummies and human remains were discovered. Adjacent to the site is the smaller archeological site Q'enqo Chico. Accessible with the boleto turistico. (updated Dec 2017)

🌍 Pukapukara (red fort). Named after the red hue of the hillsides nearby. The third site along the route, even heartier walkers will find the walk a bit long and a bit steep despite the paved and well traveled road. However, the views along the walk are great and small mud brick bars are intermittent between the sites. Hire a taxi or take a combi shared bus up from Qenko for S/1 to save time and energy. A larger site than Q'enqo, the guides have more to say about this site. It was likely a checkpoint or military control. Offerings of coca leaves among other things were received here. Accessible with the boleto turistico. (updated Dec 2017)

🌍 Tambomachay. The most distant ruin on the route from Cuzco. It is a small site with an ornamental fountain whose source is unknown as reportedly archaeologists lack the tools necessary to determine the source without damaging the site. Likely it is an underground spring. In several Incan sites such as Ollentaytambo water sources were covered or underground to protect the water supply from poisoning. Accessible with the boleto turistico. Bathrooms are free with the boleto. Take a combi all the way back to Plaza de las Armas in Cuzco for 1 sole. (updated Dec 2017)

Guides and tours to all four sites in one day, If interested, pay/negotiate for a guide at the second control at Sacsayhuamán to tour you through all four sites. Ask the guard at the ticket control which guides have been through the government training. Expect between S/60-80 depending upon the season which is S/15-20 per site. Allow 4-5 hr for the trip when taking the combis (shared buses). Pack a snack although water is available along the way. Bathrooms (clean and well maintained) are only available at the final site Tambomachay. A boleto turisitico is recommended as control points exist at three of the four sites and are carefully monitored.

If you don't want to hire a guide, then you could take a taxi or combi to Tambomachay/Pukapukara and walk back down the hill to the remaining sites. This is much kinder on the legs! If you go to the first two sites in the morning, there is a backpacker's cafe about 250 m down the road on the right that does tasty and inexpensive sandwiches and very good fruit juice. The walk down to Q'enqo and Sacsayhuamán has nice views.

• Day Trip Sacred Valley (Pisaq, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero) tour bus around S/35 from 08:00 to 19:00.

Ollantaytambo is the most impressive ruins (after Machu Picchu, of course), it's a must see. There is lots of touristy stuff to buy, you can bargain, but the prices won't go down much.

• Day Trip Chinchero, Moray and the Salineras de Maras tour bus around S/35 (plus S/10 the entrance of Salinas) from 08:00 to 15:00.

Moray was the agricultural laboratory of the Incas. Several concentric circles up to 150 m deep caused temperature changes of between 2-4°C. Seeds were developed here and spread throughout the empire. 67.5 km (42 mi) from Cuzco. Accessible with the boleto turistico. On the same trip you should visit the Salineras de Maras, terraced salt ponds and also Chinchero. The Chinchero market is on Sundays and finishes early in the afternoon. Take the Cuzco-Chinchero-Urubamba bus from Av. Grau 525. Get off at Chinchero first to catch the market then head on to Moray and the Salineras afterwards.

• Day Trip Valle Sur (Tipon and Pikillacta) tour bus around S/35 (plus S/10 the entrance of Salinas) from 08:00 to 15:00.

It makes sense to see Pikillacta and Tipon on the same day as they're on the same bus route. Pikillacta is a little further from Cuzco than Tipon. Tipon has nice terraces, water channels and long staircases its believed to be a part of the Incan royal estate. Here sits the largest irrigation system built by the incas (much of it still functioning) as well as an Incan cemetery. 22.5 km (14 mi) from Cuzco. Both sites accessible with the boleto turistico. Bus Av. De La Cultura 1320, Cuzco to Urcos (Tipon-Pikillacta-Andahuaylilas).

Cuzco and its vicinity have many other smaller and less popular but still interesting Inca ruins, ranging from reasonably well-known (🌍 Amaru Markawasi/Templo de la Luna) to very obscure and difficult to find (🌍 Chuspiyoq).

• Day Trip Waqrapukara An Inca fortress and temple complex, 3-4 hours away from Cusco depending on trailhead choice

• Cochahuasi Animal Sanctuary. A must see, one-of-a-kind rehabilitation center started by a family of biologists, which provides shelter to animals injured or victimized by poaching. It's a happy place where animals get better and those able are re-released. In 2012, there were three condors, llamas, alpacas, vicunas, macaws, pumas, an unusual furless Peruvian dog, local deer, all very friendly. This is the best place to see pumas, condors and vicunas up close. This is on the road from Cuzco to Pisaq. You can get there by motorcycle or there is usually person working for this refugee at corner of Plaza de Armas and Calle del Medio, which will organize transport for you in refugee's van for S/20 per person. Donations help with rehabilitation efforts. This place is ahead of its time, and very friendly and awesome. 
• Whitewater rafting, but not in the Sacred Valley of the Incas where the water is very polluted and the rapids are relatively tame. Instead head upstream to the Chuqicahuana or Cusipata sections of the Rio Urubamba/Vilcanota where the water is much cleaner and the rapids are excellent fun up to class 5 depending on what time of year you are traveling.
• Inflatable canoeing. On the Piñi Pampa section of the Rio Urubamba you can paddle your own canoe, fun but not frantic class 1 and 2 rapids.
• Rio Apurimac-rafting, If you have more time, try and raft the 3 or 4 day Rio Apurimac - the true source of the Amazon and one of the top ten rafting rivers in the world. Class 3 - 5 all in the most amazing 3,000-m deep canyon. Go with the experts as accidents have occurred and in Peru you pay for what you get, so saving on the costs may seriously reduce the quality and the safety of your trip.
• Rent a motorcycle. There are several shops on Calle Plateros, just north of Plaza de Armas, that rent motorcycles for the day. You do not even need a motorcycle license, simply any kind of driving license from your home country. Prices are typically US$40/day which includes two helmets, gloves, and jacket. Sacred Valley Moto Tours, at Calle Plateros #399 (corner of Siete Cuartones), has new bikes in good condition. Where to go? A loop of the Sacred Valley, taking in the market at Pisac, lunch in Urubamba, and several Incan sites, can easily be done in one afternoon. The drive from Cuzco to Pisaq is a string of gorgeous switchbacks - and a great way to see the four Inca sites above Cuzco, the aminal sanctuary, and Pisaq on the same day on your own schedule. Or head south to some of the less-visited but just as pretty small towns and Inca ruins.
• Downhill Mountain Bike Tours are available either across the Chincheros plains, past Inca ruins and down through the spectacular Maras Salineras or the 75 km downhill from Abra Malaga to Santa Maria and onto the totally awesome hot springs of Santa Teresa (and easy and cheap access to Machu Picchu from here too). Again go with the experts as there are a lot of cheap bikes out there totally not up to the job.
• Go paragliding over the Sacred Valley. The scenery is gorgeous.
• Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) (east of Cusipata). A challenging early-morning, high-altitude hike to a beautiful multicolored mountain. Tours usually start around 04:00 with a breakfast break near or in Cusipata at around 07:00. Now there's a new path leading to the mountain from the west, the former 3-hour hike (from the east) is more a 90-minute walk now. Horses can be hired for a fee, children with lamas or sheep offer to pose for a photo (free/included in the entrance fee, but a small tip is appreciated). Highest point: Montana Winikunka, 5036 m. from US$25 including breakfast, lunch and entrance fee. (updated Dec 2017)

• Morena Peruvian Kitchen, Calle Plateros 348 (just off the Plaza de Armas). Traditional 3-course meals with a glass of chicha for S/7 and a comfortable upstairs setting. It is frequented by a mix of locals and tourists. 
• Chifa Status, Av. La Cultura (close to El Mega supermarket). Good quality Chifa. Dishes for S/2-3. 
• El Balcon. Soup, main course, and desert (no drink) for S/10. If you're looking for good quality food for not a lot of money, this is the place to go. 
• El Encuentro. Reasonably priced vegetarian restaurant with good portions. The S/10 dinner includes soup, main course & mate. Free salads with lunch. They also do soy meat very well. There are two of these restaurants but the one in Calle Tigre near Plaza de Armas is S/8 for exactly the same menu. (updated Dec 2017)
• El Fogon, Plateros 365 (Just off of Plaza de Armas, top floor), ☏ +51 84 233596. Nothing fancy but great cheap food: for S/10 you get a meal deal that includes a plate from the salad bar, a selection of soup, a selection of main dish, a dessert and a beverage. Or splurge with their more expensive menu offer for S/20. Very tasty Peruvian food. Friendly staff. 
• El Mercado (in front of the train station). A roofed market where they sell delicious local bread, herbs, juices, souvenirs, DVDs and other items. If you want something truly more local, very cheap, and are willing to take risks of not the best methods of cleaning dishes, then head over here. At the end of the market are the food stands, where they serve local food. For S/2 you can get soup, an entree, and juice. All the locals know where the train station and El Mercado is. This is where many local workers go for their meals, not exactly a tourist place, but they are friendly towards tourists. 
• Kukuly, Huaynapata 318. A cozy place with friendly prices also attracting locals, run by a Swiss guy. Daily menu for S/6. 
• Mercado Municipal. Fresh juices direct from the market. Fresh and great place to contact with local people. From S/2. 
• Prasada, Qanchipata 269 (sit-down restaurant; lunch & dinner) & Choquechaca 152 (alley-way; lunch) (about half a block from Jack's Cafe, a bit hard to find in a small alley walkway, and is only marked by a small blackboard outside listing the daily specials). Cute local vegetarian friendly spot. The food is delicious. For S/5 you can get plates like "falafel tacos" and "Mexican veggi burger". Also, they have lassies (a yogurt drink from India), and tasty desserts for a few soles. At the sit-down restaurant they do a daily menu (drink, soup and plate) for S/8. Can't be beat! US$3.50. 
• Victor Victoria, Calle Tsesequocha (just off Calle Tigre). Friendly service. Great salad bar buffet included in all main dishes. Gorgeous garlic trout with rice or potatoes for S/10 (including the salad bar buffet and lovely fresh bread) but only for lunch. Great value breakfasts. Regular glasses of freshly squeezed juice for S/6. Also they have a proper espresso machine for good coffee in the morning. 
• 🌍 Chia Vegan Kitchen, Calle Tecsicocha 466 (near the intersection with Calle Tigre), ☏ +51 84 599055. 10:00-22:00. Arguably the best vegan place in Cusco, and very good value for money. Looks good, smells good, tastes good, and the staff is super friendly. Lunchtime offer includes drink and salad buffet for S/15. A la carte dishes more expensive, but worth it. If you're up for a hot drink and/or something sweet, try the enormous hot chocolate for the (very enjoyable) sugar shock of the day. 

• Bagdad Cafe (left of the cathedral). This small restaurant seems to produce everything themselves. Local food is extremely good, in the evening small performance groups enter the restaurant and give excellent performances. The prices are mid-range, but it is sure worth it. The daily menu lunch special is more like a snack. 
• Jack's Cafe, Choquechaca 188 (on the corner and near the South American Explorers clubhouse), ☏ +51 84 254606. This is a great place to get a big breakfast complete with eggs, bacon, avocado, toast and fantastic thick shakes. Very popular with tourists. Try the homemade lemonades. 
• Right outside of Jack's is an empanada stand which has great rocoto salsa, a spicy salsa that goes well on the cheese or meat-stuffed pastries.

• Cicciolinia, Calle Triunfo 393 (at the end of the alley by the 12-sided stone). Very tasty place to go for breakfast. There is an amazing bakers downstairs. 
• 🌍 Emperador, 172 Granada. They have a 13-page menu with all sorts of foods from around the world. Try the pisco sour tall. (updated Dec 2017)
• 🌍 Encantasq'a, Choquechaca 131. A nice place to have a break with coffee and a snack. Especially the chocolate cupcakes are delicious and make up for half a lunch. They also have fresh cakes, quiches and juices. 
• 🌍 Green Point, 235 Calle Carmen Bajo, ☏ +51 84 431146, greenpoint.vegan@outlook.com. Vegan restaurant popular with tourists, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Various international dishes, and some Peruvian food. Gluten-free and raw options. Menu in English and Spanish. Wifi available. S/35–50. (updated Dec 2017)
• Inka Grill (On the Plaza de Armas). Well-known and frequented by tourists but not a trap. Excellent food. Good place to try cuy (guinea pig); some people have reported mud butt after eating it, it is tastily done and served without the head so eating doesn't remind you of your pet hamster. Try the appetizer tiradito de trucha. Alpaca also on the menu. 
• Restaurant Inkazuela, Plazoleta Nazarenas N 167 (8 m from Hotel Monasterio (2nd floor)), ☏ +51 84 234924, restaurantinkazuela@gmail.com. This place specializes in stews. Food is delicious and friendly waitresses will take good care of you. Well chosen music and a fireplace create a romantic atmosphere. Appetizers around S/15, mains around S/28. 
• Tunupa, 233 Portal Confituría, ☏ +51-84-25-2936. They offer some of the best guinea pig or alpaca dishes from the local Novo Andino cuisine as well as other local specialities. Lunch entrées US$9–17. 

There are several supermarkets close to el centro:

• Gato's Market, Plaza de Armas (across from Norton Rat's Pub in Portal Belén 115). Small and a bit pricey. 
• Mega, has several locations: the most central is on Matara, just north of Ayacucho. A larger one is at Plaza Tupac Amaru, on Matará 271 at Av Garcilaso. They have a home-furnishings store next door as well.
• Maxi, Ave Grau (just west of Matara). 

For larger supermarkets, take a combi or taxi a couple of kilometres south on Av. La Cultura.

• La Canasta, Av La Cultura 2000-block. Well-stocked. 
• Mega (a few blocks further past La Canasta, on the same side of Av. La Cultura). This is the largest supermarket in Cuzco. 

• Hospedaje Amanecer, 216 Choquechaca, San Blas District (From the Plaza de Armas, head towards Plazoleta de las Nazarenas, walk down 7 Culebras, turn left and its on the right hand side, its white with a blue door). A quiet place, private bathrooms, TV, wi-fi, hot shower. Twins S/40. 
• Hostal El Arcano, Carmen Alto 288, San Blas District (go up Carmen Alto and it's almost all the way at the end (the road terminates at a T)), ☏ +51 84 232703. A great little hostal overlooking the city with a variety of comfortable, affordable rooms. ~S/30. 
• Pisko and Soul, Carmen Alto, San Blas District (Go up Carmen Alto and it's all the way at the end (the road terminates at a T)). Really nice for a hostel. Very friendly staff. Hot water, continental breakfast, free wifi. It's a new establishment so some books may not have it listed especially if the print is a few years old. ~S/35. 
• Hospedaje El Artesano de San Blas, Suytucato 790 (straight up from the Plaza San Blas), ☏ +51 84 263-968. Well-kept place with good-value rooms around a colonial courtyard, hot water, common kitchen, helpful staff, wifi. S/20-40. 
• Taita Home, Calle Hatunrumiyoc 759 (straight up from the Plaza San Blas, there is no sign on the door), ☏ +51 84 233873. Dormitory beds in a freaky, chilled out and friendly atmosphere with a sunny garden, fireplace, outdoor kitchen and gas hot water. S/15. 
• Hostels Cusco Samanapata, Siete Angelinos (Las Blas), hostalsamanapata@gmail.com. Hostel in San Blas area of Cuzco, about 3 blocks from Plaza de Armas. Free wifi, 2 free computers, free breakfast, all rooms have cable TV. Very friendly staff, rooms cleaned daily. Much cheaper than similar places. from S/25 per person. 
• La Casa de mi Abuelo, Nueva Alta 785. A guesthouse near the Plaza de San Francisco run by a kind local lady that offers extremely clean and comfortable rooms, ensuite bathrooms, cable TV, and excellent breakfasts. 7-minute walk to Plaza de Armas US$20 double, US$13 single,. 
• 🌍 Pirwa Hostel Colonial Cusco (Pirwa backpackers hostel), San Francisco #360 (San Francisco square), ☏ +51 84 244659, info@pirwahostelsperu.com. 24-hr hot showers, movies, in-house bar, pool (game) table, attentive staff, free breakfast, free internet, pick up service, and comfortable beds. From US$7.50/person. 
• 🌍 Pirwa Bed&Breakfast Posada del Corregidor Cusco, Portal De Panes #151 (Main square), ☏ +51 84 232632, info@pirwahostelsperu.com. Movies, safe and relaxed environment, traditional meals, good view of the main plaza. From US$10/person. 
• Casa de la Gringa, APV Tambillo A - 7 Templo de la Luna, ☏ +51 84 241168. Each room has a different theme and features original international art. Comfortable and colorful. Free wifi, cable TV and DVDs, common rooms, a beautiful garden, and good staff. 
• Hogar Clinica San Juan de Dios, Avenida Manzanares 264 (Urbanizacion Manuel Prado), ☏ +51 84 231340. Private and double rooms and windows that look onto the mountain range. Good service and daily egg breakfast. Non-profit hostel supporting the children's hospital next door. 
• Pariwana Hostel Cusco, Meson de la Estrella 136, ☏ +51 84 233751. Two blocks from the Plaza, hot showers, common areas are decorated with local designs, safe, clean. 
• Pan...tástico Bed & Bakery, Carmen Bajo 226, ☏ +51 842 54387. Small friendly hostel is the little sister to Casa de la Gringa, and run by the same helpful owners. Long-term prices available. Can organize tours and special trips to the mountains. Rooms a bit small, wifi, no TVs. S/40 includes breakfast. 
• Flying Dog Hostel, Choquechaca 469, ☏ +51 842 53997. Great hostel with a wide range of rooms. Free wifi (in lobby, not room), breakfast, lockers, and coffee and tea all day. Check out their bar, and ask them to arrange tours for you. Friendly staff. 
• Hospedaje Estrellita, Avenida Tullumayo 445, ☏ +51 974 278 420. Shared double rooms surround a large concrete courtyard. There is a kitchen with a sociable commonroom with cableTV. A night cost S/15 and includes a small breakfast. It's popular with gringos. 
• Loki Backpackers Hostel, Cuesta Santa Ana #601, Centro Historico, ☏ +51 842 43705, info@lokihostel.com. 180 beds, noisy party hostel in a 450-year-old Peruvian national monument. Dorms from US$6, basic breakfast included. Wifi, tea and coffee are included. Hot water with pressure in generally shared showers. 13:00 checkout and small lockers in reception that have plug sockets in them. 
• Saqray Hostel, Calle Suecia 504, ☏ +51 84 387689, cusco@walkoninn.com. Has very beautiful rooms with private or shared bathroom and two small dorms. The place has a nice patio with a fireplace, it's completely clean and there is another sitting room with TV and cable and a computer with free internet on which to burn your own CDs or DVDs. Free wifi, laundry service, breakfast available. 2 blocks from the main square, close to the centre of 'fiesta'. Pressurized hot water available around the clock. 
• Rimacpampa Hostal, Limacpampa Chico # 493, ☏ +51-997479535. Close to the plaza. Amazingly hot showers, with good water pressure. TV, food available. 
• Welcome Cusco Hostal, Asociacion San marcos A-3, San Blas, ☏ +51 84 246024. Free internet and wifi throughout, hot showers, towels available, and warm bed available. Use of kitchen. Only 6 blocks from the main square. 
• Hospedaje Corona Real, Ave Huascar 226, ☏ +51 84 620264. Quiet and cheap option about 15-min walk from the city center. Rooms are spacious and have private bathroom and local television and cost S/15 per person. 
• Hostal Turistico San Blas, Cuesta de San Blas 526, ☏ +51 84 225781. Nice interior sitting area, some rooms have views. Cable TV, wifi. Rooms basic but clean and nice. Family-run. Hot water 24 hr. S/60 includes breakfast. 
• Cusco Central Hostel, Calle, Av Alta 506, ☏ +51 984 884 454. Old world nostalgia with breakfast. No internet. 
• Hostal Mirador De San Blas, Calle Chihuampata 515 (on the edge of San Blas), ☏ +51 84235054. Breakfast, cable TV, wifi, friendly staff. Large rooms some with desks and refrigerator. Posted prices are high, but they can be talked down to S/45 per night. 
• Mirador del Inka (Sanblas Backpacker Hostel), Tandapata 160, San Blas, ☏ +51 990 135 616. Very big but nice place in a historic building with great view over the city. Free wifi, breakfast optional. They also run a tour agency and tend to be very pushy in trying to sell their tours (which are very pricey, so try to haggle the price down!). Advertised price is US$30 for a nice double, but in the low season it was possible to lower it to US$15 (May 2012). Rooms on the upper floors are much better than the lower floors! 
• The Grasshopper Hostel, Calle interior 3, Hospital 842, ☏ +51 950 711 876, frontdesk@thegrasshopperhostel.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. A relaxed backpacker hostel with dorms, private rooms and a super friendly staff. (updated Oct 2015)
• 🌍 VIP House Garden Hostel, Meloc 422, ☏ +51 84 238688. One of the cheaper hostels in the city, but surprisingly nice. Wifi, free breakfast, inexpensive dinners available some days, bonfires in the evening, and a view of the city from the upstairs kitchen/dining room. (The affiliated VIP House Hostel is around the corner.) (updated Dec 2017)

• Amaru Hostal I, Cuesta San Blas 541, ☏ +51 84 225933, amaruhostal@speedy.com.pe. Quiet and cheap option about 3 blocks from the Plaza de Armas. Rooms are decent sized and have private or shared bath facilities and TV. US$30–55/room depending on type of beds, occupancy and season. 
• Amaru Colonial Hotel, Chihuampata 642, ☏ +51 84 223521, amaruhostal2@speedy.com.pe. Quiet and cheap option about 2-3 blocks from the Plaza de Armas. US$30–48/room depending on type of beds, occupancy and season. 
• El Balcón Cusco Hotel, Tambo De Montero 222, ☏ +51 84 236738. Awesome interior design, delicious breakfast and moderate prices. From Plaza de Armas, follow Plateros a block and a half or so. The hotel is in a lane up the hill. About half a block up, look for the door on the right. The sign is above the door, so you may not see it unless you walk on the opposite side of the lane. 
• Hostal Frankenstein, San Juan de Dios 260 (2 blocks from main square), ☏ +51 84 236999. Clean, friendly and helpful German chef, a lazy iguana, creative interior, cosy atmosphere. Double costs around US$20 (the one on top is quiet and offer view to Ausangate mountain). 
• Hoteles Garcilaso, Calle Garcilaso #535 #538, ☏ +51 842 233031. There are two of them on the same block. Good location on the block between the Plaza San Francisco and the other small plaza that is one block from the Plaza de Armas. As in a lot of places, the inside rooms may be the way to go because they are quiet at night. Double US$75/night, however it is worth more like US$30–45/night. 
• Orquidea Real, Calle Saphy 851, ☏ +51 984 506 637, orquidea@orquidea.net. The colonial building has original Inca walls and exposed wood beams, and the rustic accommodations are simply decorated in a cozy mountain lodge aesthetic. All rooms are oriented toward Cuzco below, offering panoramic views. 
• Ninos Hotel, Calle Meloc 442, ☏ +51 84231424. Hotel with charitable purposes: all procedures from room booking and in-house restaurant go towards running an association that gives support to local unprivileged children. 
• Gran Hostal Machu Picchu, Calle Quera 282, ☏ +51 842 84 23 1111. 
• Hostal Rumi Punku, Calle Choqechaka 339, ☏ +51 84 221102. Rumi Punku means "stone door" in Quechua: the entrance to the hotel leads through an ancient stone door, obviously of Inca design. The doorway is all that has survived of an Inca palace. The door is considered a historic item by the city of Cuzco. 
• Casa San Blas Boutique Inn, Tucoyeros 566, San Blas, ☏ +51 84 237900. In the historic artisan's quarter 2½ blocks from the main square in a neighborhood of narrow, cobbled streets and whitewashed colonial-era houses. Friendly staff. US$110 a night for a single. 
• Koyllur Hostal, Pumapaccha Nº 243, ☏ +51 984004661. Richly decorated and a nice place to splash out for a few nights. Big buffet breakfasts. Ask for room at top floor in the front - has skylights, lots of room, nice furnishings. CablebTV, wifi. US$20 in off-season. 
• 🌍 La Posada del Viajero, Santa Catalina Ancha 366 (Santa Catalina Ancha 366), ☏ +51 84 261643, laposadadelviajeroperu@hotmail.com. Free Wi-Fi, 2 blocks from Plaza de Armas, breakfast, hot water, kitchen. US$40 Double or twin room. (updated May 2015)
• 🌍 Hotel Golden Inca, Calle Retiro N° 435 (10 minutes walk from the main square), ☏ +51 84 240331, reservas@hotelgoldeninca.com. Check-in: 11:15, check-out: 10:30. Very quiet, beautiful rooms, clean and cozy. (updated Sep 2015)

• Tierra Viva Cusco Plaza. 
• Tierra Viva Cusco Saphi, Saphi street. Many of the rooms on the second floor have high ceilings with white-painted wood beams visibly charming. The hotel is organized around two interior courtyards. Breakfast is included. The staff are attentive, speak great English, and can help you make reservations. The most interesting aspect of Tierra Viva Saphi is the location it is at the boundary between fancy Plaza de Armas and the poor hills around Cuzco it's charming, but also somewhat out of place. Room 212 is excellent. 2nd floor rooms are preferable. 24 hour desk so it's easy to check out for those early Inca Trail departures. Free coca tea in the lobby a great way to warm up at night. 
• Libertador Palacio del Inka, Santo Domingo 259, ☏ +51 84 231961. The hotel was part of the Koricancha temple and during colonial times it became property of the conqueror Francisco Pizarro. 
• Amerinka Boutique Hotel, Calle Marquez Nº 272, ☏ +51 84 224949. Modern hotel that combines warm room atmospheres with professional and experienced attention. Near Plaza de Armas. 
• The Garden House Hotel, LOS ALAMOS B-6, ☏ +51-84-271117, info@cuscohouse.com. Family-run hotel in a wonderful private garden. Modern decor, wifi. 
• Hotel Royal Inka I or II (in front of the Plaza Regocijo, about 150 m from la Plaza de Armas), Calle Espinar, ☏ +51 84 222284. Royal Inka I is a renovated house while Royal Inka II is more modern with a spa (jacuzzi and steam room). Breakfast available. 
• 🌍 Belmond Hotel Monasterio, Calle, Nazarenas 337, ☏ +51 84 604000, info@peruorientexpress.com.pe. Housed in a former monastery, rooms are former monks' cells, but they are far from monastic. By far the most expensive place to stay in Cuzco. Avoid rooms 414-419, which are near a noisy generator. 
• Hotel Marqueses, Calle Garcilaso 256, ☏ +51 842 264249, info@hotelmarqueses.com. The official hotel of SAS travel. Good staff and comfortable rooms. In the tourist district, 2 blocks from the Plaza des Armas. 
• Hilton Garden Inn, Av. Abancay 207 (slight uphill walk from the centre, less than 1 km, part of which involves stairs), ☏ +51 84 580130. For those who wish for a quiet night's sleep. Beautiful views of Cusco city from the rooms, especially at night. (updated Jun 2019)

• June–August. Cuzco can be very hot during the day and quite cold in the early morning and late at night. If you get cold easily, you might want to carry a hat, gloves, and several layers in your day pack to use at night, that you can peel off during the day for complete summer mode
• Shoes. Cuzco is somewhat dusty and you will be very happy wearing a boot and sneaker mix such as Keens, rather than for example flip flops.