Dalton Highway

When oil was discovered at Prudhoe Bay in 1969, the state of Alaska operated as a "boom-and-bust economy" without any stable industries and, more importantly, America was critically short of oil and mostly at the mercy of volatile Arab nations (just two years after the Arab-Israeli Six-Day War). Plans for drilling the oil and for an 800 mi pipeline were thrown together at a dizzying speed, as the U.S. government and oil companies worked to settle land claims with Native Americans, attain proper permits, ensure environmental safeguards, and build ways of accessing this extremely remote area. The Dalton Highway was hastily constructed in just 5 months, in 1974, to provide access for the Trans-Alaska Pipeline under construction. It was built at a similar, dizzying pace, price, and fashion as the nearby Alaska Highway, constructed during World War Two.

Built as the North Slope Haul Road (or simply the "Haul Road", as some locals still call it), it was a supply road and intended for large tractor-trailers rather than private vehicles. After completion of the pipeline, the road remained as a supply route for oil operations at Prudhoe Bay. In 1981 the haul road was opened to the public (with a permit) until Disaster Creek at Mile 211, given the designation Alaska Route 11, and named in honor of James W. Dalton, a man who aided in the development of the Cold War's Distant Early Warning System and whose knowledge of northern Alaska greatly aided the oil exploration of the region. In 1994, the public was allowed access to the entire highway to Mile 414 in Deadhorse, without permits. The road used to be gravel for its entire length, but it is now paved from Mile 37 to Mile 49; Mile 90 to Mile 197 (Gold Creek); and from Mile 335 (Happy Valley airstrip) to Mile 362. Due to the extreme temperature variations and frost heave, paved sections are prone to potholes and large cracks and some paved sections are worse than unpaved sections.

The climate of the regions this highway traverses range from subarctic to polar. During the summer months (Jun-Aug), the average maximum temperatures range from 70°F (21°C) to 50°F (10°C) with average minimum temperatures ranging from 50°F (10°C) to 35°F (2°C). Travel on the highway during the months of May and September is a bit colder, although travel along the highway is not considerably more dangerous during these months. Average maximums during these two months are approximately 35-60°F (2-16°C) and average minimums 40-15°F (4 to -9°C). The temperatures given are average, be prepared for temperatures as much as 20°F (11°C) outside of said ranges. While the highway is open all year (more trucks traverse it in winter than summer!), travel from late September through early May is frigid and lethally cold through the heart of winter. Temperatures below -40°F (-40°C) are very common and temperatures as low as -60°F (-57°C) are certainly possible—before factoring in windchill. The record low windchill in Deadhorse was -102°F (-74°C) on 28 Feb 1989! A chart record of windchill at ARCO's facility in Prudhoe Bay on 13 Jan 1975 shows -128°F (-89°C). Such temperatures are lethal in less than one minute if you are not prepared for them. Unless you are experienced with polar temperatures, including its effects on vehicles and gear, do not attempt to traverse the highway between November and March!

North of the Arctic Circle (Mile 115), there are 24 hours of daylight in the summer and 24 hours of darkness in the winter. In Deadhorse for instance, the longest "day" is 63 days, 23 hours, 40 minutes (12:09AM on 20 May to 11:18PM 22 Jul); likewise, the longest "night" in Deadhorse is 54 days, 22 hours, 51 min (12:27PM 24 Nov to 11:18AM 18 Jan).

The nearest major airport to the highway is in Fairbanks (FAI ^IATA). Aside from numerous Alaska Airlines and turboprop flights to destinations within Alaska, Fairbanks International Airport has commercial service available to: Seattle/Tacoma Airport (SEA ^IATA) (Alaska Airlines; seasonal, Delta Air Lines), Portland (PDX ^IATA) (seasonal, Alaska Airlines), Minneapolis/St. Paul (MSP ^IATA) (seasonal, Delta Air Lines), Denver (DEN ^IATA) (seasonal, Frontier Airlines & United Airlines), Chicago-O'Hare (ORD ^IATA) (seasonal, United Airlines), and Frankfurt Airport, Germany (FRA ^IATA) (seasonal, Condor Airlines). Deadhorse does have an airport handling limited commercial flights (Alaskan Airlines to Barrow, Fairbanks, & Anchorage), but all organized tours originate from Fairbanks, and there are no car rentals available here. As flying into Deadhorse is more expensive and has limited options for getting onto the highway (you could try to hitch a ride with a truck driver, but don't expect any stops), the only practical means of arrival by air is Fairbanks or Anchorage (ANC ^IATA) if you want to rent a car there to explore southern Alaska as well (see Anchorage article for flights there).

From Fairbanks, you can rent a vehicle (4x4 truck recommended) and drive to the Dalton Highway. However, the major car rental companies explicitly prohibit the travel of their vehicles on a long list of Alaskan roads, including the Dalton Highway.

It is strongly recommended that you travel with a full-sized spare tire; the road is rough enough that a small spare will be of little use and towing costs can be as high as $5/mile.

The following companies, in alphabetical order, rent vehicles for use on the Dalton and other rugged Alaskan highways:

• 🌍 Arctic Outfitters, 3820 University Ave. South, Fairbanks, ☏ +1-907-474-3530, fax: +1-907-474-4767, adventure@northernalaska.com. M-F 8AM-5PM. Rents fully outfitted Ford Escapes. Rentals include: CB radio, 2 full-size spare tires, first aid kit, tire changing kit, satellite phone. A bit pricey, but great customer service. (updated Aug 2019)
• 🌍 Go North Alaska Travel Center, 3713 South Lathrop St., Fairbanks, ☏ +1-907-479-7271, toll-free: +1-855-236-7271, fax: +1-907-474-1041, travel@gonorth-alaska.com. Daily 9AM-3PM. They offer full-size pickup trucks, SUVs, small RVs, and truck campers. Started as a business offering river trips and hiking trips in the Brooks Range. (updated Aug 2019)

If you are driving your personal vehicle it is important to remember that the purpose of this highway is for trucks and that the road is designed for them rather than for personal vehicles (see "get around"). Roundtrip, you will be traveling 828 mi (1,333 km) on a mostly gravel road while being passed on numerous occasions by speeding semi-trucks hurling gravel at your vehicle. Many company and semi-drivers are courteous and will slow from the oncoming direction; however, some do not and gravel will hit your windshield. If being passed from behind, it is often best to find a safe place to pull off and let the other driver by. This will let them pass at a safe speed and reduce the risk of road debris being kicked up onto your vehicle (it's also just good manners). Additionally, there are many potholes on the road (more so on paved parts), some big enough to swallow basketballs. Such dangers can wreak havoc on a small car's suspension and you might be left with a few scratches and dents on your car (i.e., don't take your new Mercedes down this road). A vehicle such as an SUV or pickup truck is preferred due to their ruggedness and ability to cope with road conditions. One Fairbanks car rental agency used to claim that large sedans were better due to their lower center of gravity, but since sedans were what they rented (for a rental cost similar to larger, newer, & more expensive trucks & SUVs), that may not have been entirely truthful. And in the end, due to considerable damage caused by the low clearance and inexperienced driving, this company no longer rents sedans.

Refer to the Fairbanks article regarding reaching Fairbanks by car. The southern terminus of the Dalton Highway can be reached by car from Fairbanks via the Steese Highway then, at Fox 11 mi (18 km) north of Fairbanks, the Elliot Highway; both road segments are numbered as Alaska Route 2. The Dalton Highway begins at Livengood (no services), Mile 73 of the Elliot Highway. Follow the signs to the Dalton Highway. It is about an hour and a half drive from Fairbanks to Livengood. There are no gas stations between Fairbanks and the start of the Dalton. Once on the Dalton Highway, there is gas available at the Yukon River and at Coldfoot ($5.39 per gallon in summer 2011). After that, there are no services of any kind for 240 mi (390 km) at Deadhorse. Do not take this information lightly.

There are several companies in the Fairbanks area which take tourists on the Dalton Highway in vans or buses. While the price for such a tour could be more expensive for a family than renting your own car to take on the highway, for individuals and couples the cost of a tour may outweigh the costs and hassles of renting a vehicle. The biggest advantage of taking a tour bus is the lack of concern for breaking down, battling trucks speeding by, and concern for things like gas and food. However, the tour bus limits one's flexibility while on the trip and most tour buses take two days going to Deadhorse and one back. Tour buses stop at the hotels at night and you won't be able to save money by camping.

• Northern Alaska Tour Company, ☏ +1 907-474-8600. Provides round-trip bus trips to Arctic Circle only ($189). Bus to Coldfoot returning on turboprop plane. Fairbanks to Deadhorse flying one way and returning by ground in the other, overnight at Coldfoot ($989). And more...see website 
• Dalton Highway Express, ☏ +1 907-475-3555. Think of this as a bus service rather than tour. DHE makes quick stops, no stops for photos. Reservations must be made at least 14 days in advance. $116-428 round-trip. 
• Trans Arctic Circle Treks, ☏ +1 907-479-5451, arctictreks@alaska.com. 

For the person traveling the Dalton, gas is infrequent and expensive. While you may be following a pipeline that transports over 700,000 barrels of oil per day (a large percentage of America's oil supply), that oil has to travel south to California to be refined, then sent back up to Alaska and transported hundreds of miles by not-so-fuel-efficient trucks to these gas stations... so as oil-rich as the area may be, expect to pay the highest prices in the United States ($1–2 more per gallon than the national average). Combine this with the long distances, and one thing is clear: you'll need gas and it's not cheap. The last gas station leaving the Fairbanks area is Hilltop Truck Stop in Fox, where the Elliot Highway splits from the Steese Highway. Afterward, there are just three locations to fuel along the Dalton.

• Yukon River crossing (Mile 56). Closed in winter.
• Coldfoot, gasoline is available from Sourdough Fuel (Mile 175).
• Deadhorse, gasoline is available from three stations. (Mile 441).

That's all... three locations with gas stations along the entire highway!

See also: Tips for road trips and Winter driving.

The speed limit on the Dalton Highway is 50 mph (80 km/h) its entire length and keep your headlights on at all times! Use parking lights if parked near the road (although you should park far off the road) and emergency blinkers if disabled. Raising the hood of your vehicle can signal to passing drivers that you are disabled and may elicit help from passing drivers. If making repairs on a vehicle, park at least 10 ft (3.5 m) off the road to avoid being hit or pelted with gravel.

The road was built for trucks carrying supplies to the oilfield. Trucks have the right of way! Understand that what may be a simple task in a car can be much more difficult in a large truck. Trucks cannot brake as quickly, nor can they "get out of the way" as easily. Many trucks have overturned as a result of hitting the berm or ditch at high speed, whereas a car can (much more) easily and safely get out of the way.

Always slow down when passing an oncoming vehicle; it is common courtesy as a stone flung at your windshield at 50 mph will do a lot more damage than one flung at 10 mph. Check your rearview mirror frequently and pull over to allow vehicles to pass you. If you want to pass a vehicle ahead of you, flash your bright lights, turn your lights on/off, or tap the horn lightly; tap the horn as you're passing in appreciation. Finally, if you're stranded, don't expect trucks to stop for you. It wastes a considerable amount of fuel to come to a stop, idle while helping you, and then get back up to cruising speed.

There are many steep grades on the Dalton, especially in the Brooks Range (many at the maximum 12%). In wintery weather, chains may be required to gain traction ascending these slopes. Be sure to carry chains with you, even in months like June or September.

It is very important to check the road conditions and weather warnings and forecasts before leaving, especially outside of July and August. While driving expect that at any given time a section of the road may be shut down due to storm or other damage, causing anywhere from a few hours to several days delay.

• Road conditions and any special warnings. Select the "All Reports" bubble at top and "Northern Alaska" from the maps pulldown menu.
• Visitor centers at the Yukon River and Coldfoot. Summer only, in person or call +1 907-678-5209 (Coldfoot).
• Alaska Department of Transportation (Fairbanks). Road conditions all year. +1 907-456-5209.
• Alaska Public Lands Information Center. All year. +1 907-456-0527.

• National Weather Service current weather advisories. Draw a straight line from Fairbanks to the region to the right of Barrow and the 4 regions you pass through are the ones the Dalton does.
• National Weather Service current weather conditions. Relative cities include: Deadhorse, Bettles (near Coldfoot),& Manley Hot Springs (closer to start than Fairbanks). Do not rely on Fairbanks, as it lies in a valley making it warmer in summer and colder in winter than most of the Dalton Highway.
• National Weather Service forecasts: North Slope (relative sections are "Central Beaufort Sea coast" for Deadhorse, "Northeastern Brooks Range" for Atigun Pass) and Interior Alaska (relative sections are "Southeastern Brooks Range" for Coldfoot and "Central Interior" for Livengood).

Miles 0-175 are dominated by boreal forests. Much of this stretch of the highway was ravaged by wildfires in 2004 & 2005 (Alaska's 1st & 3rd largest fire seasons of record), leaving behind many swaths of charred trees. Most, but not all, of the wildlife in this region has left. With only skinny trees obscuring your view, the fireweed flowers (so named for their tendency to colonize fire ravaged regions) give the forest floors a carpet of bright pink, wildflowers peak in early July.

• Mile 24 A pullout beside the Hess Creek, providing a safe place to park and take a break.
• Mile 54 Pump station #6. This station is one of the eleven pump stations that keep oil flowing through the 800 mile pipeline. While the stations are numbered from one to twelve, station eleven was never built.
• Mile 56 Yukon River Here, the Dalton Highway and pipeline pass over the mighty and wild Yukon River, which runs nearly 2,000 miles (3,220 km) from Canada to the Bering Sea. There is a Bureau of Land Services visitor's center (no phone), which provides information about the status of the highway, information regarding federal lands along the highway (such as Gates of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge), and helps tourists with planning their trip along the Dalton and what lies ahead. There is a small hotel, a Northern Ventures gasoline station (closed in winter), tire/mechanic shop, and Yukon River Ventures(provides riverboat tours along the Yukon). Be sure to get unique photos of the pipeline suspended over the river (in lieu of a bridge).
• Mile 60 A campsite with outhouse, potable water, trash bins, and gas are available just down the road at mile 60. There is also a former construction-camp-turned-hotel for $199/night. Nearby is a restaurant, open mid-May to mid-September, serving possibly the best food on the highway, but pricey: day-long breakfast $8–14, lunch $10–12, dinner $16–26. The hotel/restaurant/gift shop may be closed. Its website remains up as of 2014, but was last updated 2011, and the 2014 Dalton Highway visitor's guide only mentions a campsite at Mile 60.
• Mile 73 First of a series of steep hills—the "Roller Coaster"—in a 60 mi (100 km) segment of the Dalton. The hill at Mile 73 is known as "Sand Hill".
• Mile 75 "Roller Coaster Hill".
• Mile 86.5 There is a minor road off the west side of the highway which leads up a hill to a gravel pit (beware heavy equipment), affording great views of the Yukon Flats National Wildlife Refuge.
• Mile 87 "Mackey Hill"
• Mile 98 A pullout on "Finger Mountain" which has a half-mile trail with several information signs. Great photography opportunity.
• Mile 110 "Beaver Slide" hill.

• Mile 115: Arctic Circle A pullout with picnic area, information boards a large sign denoting the Arctic Circle, the southernmost latitude where the sun remains above the horizon for 24 hours on the summer solstice (21 Jun) and below the horizon on the winter solstice (21 Dec). There are camping sites up the hill and behind the picnic area with an outhouse and trash bins. Camping is not permitted in the picnic area nor viewing deck.
• Mile 126.5 "Oh Shit Corner" Sometimes marked by an unofficial sign, the name is due to the location at a bend in the road at the base of Paradise Hill, a particularly treacherous spot for truckers who drive too fast.
• Mile 132 A pullout with incredible views of the Brooks Range to the north. "Gobblers Knob" hill.
• Mile 137 Pump station #5. Unlike other stations pump station #5 is actually a pressure relief station that slows down oil that is speeding down the pipeline after the descent from the Brooks Range.
• Mile 150 Grayling Lake A picturesque lake carved thousands of years ago by glaciers. Popular with moose in summer looking for a drink.
• Mile 175: Coldfoot (Pop.13) Founded in 1898, abandoned in 1912, and revived as a construction camp in 1970, Coldfoot is a major stop on the highway. There is a restaurant, tire shop, post office, gift shop, hook-ups for RVs, campsites, and an inn. Additionally there is a "visitor's center" in Coldfoot offering information on recreation & visitor services along the Dalton. After Coldfoot, there are 240 miles (386 km) without services such as gas or food... the longest such stretch in the United States! Leave prepared. Do not take this warning lightly!

Miles 175-275 run through the Brooks Range mountains. The landscape is composed of tall, jagged mountains, valleys, and gorges. This is prime location on the Dalton for hiking. Compared to the North Slope and Coastal Plain, which receive less than 10 inches of precipitation a year, the Brooks Range is frequented by blizzards, windy, and prone to snow even in July!

• Mile 180 The only developed campsite along the highway with 27 campsites (for a fee, Memorial Day to Labor Day), potable water, an outhouse, trash bins, fire pits. Hiking 2 mi upstream leads to a 20-ft waterfall.
• Mile 188: Wiseman (Pop. 22), located 3 mi off the Dalton Highway, is a quaint little mining town founded in 1907 by persons who abandoned the Coldfoot settlement, finding gold in a nearby creek. This historic village, and its residents subsistent on hunting and gardening, makes for a great stop on your trip. Keep in mind that all buildings are private property.
• Mile 203 A great view of nearby Sukakpak mountain (4458 ft / 1338 m), with a massive face (i.e. cliff) facing you.
• Mile 235 The further north you go, the fewer trees there are (due to permafrost and extreme cold). Here lies the furthest north spruce tree on the highway. It was killed by a vandal in 2004, estimated to be 273 years old.
• Mile 237 Good viewpoint. The next few miles are a major avalanche hazard in the winter. The ADOT station here does not provide services; it stores cannons and road-clearing vehicles. They fire artillery shells in winter to clear the slopes above the highway.

• Mile 244 Atigun Pass at 4739 ft (1422 m), is the highest point on the highway and marks the Continental Divide (water that falls to the south flows into the Pacific Ocean or Bering Sea, to the north the Arctic Ocean). The area is prone to snow, even in July, and is a prime location for seeing Dall sheep.
• Mile 269 Pump station #4. At 2760 feet this station has the highest elevation of any pumping station along the oil pipeline.

Miles 275-355 pass through the North Slope, which is entirely permafrost and home to many herds of caribou, groups of muskox, as well as predatory birds, such as falcons. The only plants in this region are tough, ground-hugging shrubs. As the name implies, this is a slope leading from the Brooks Range down to the low-lying Coastal Plain.

• Mile 275 Galbraith lake carved by a glacier along with the rest of the Atigun valley. A short hike downstream leads into the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and to spectacular Atigun Gorge, the lake, and the Brooks Range. Lots of wildflowers in early summer. Follow the signs to the airstrip and continue driving 2.5 miles on an unimproved road to a campsite with an outhouse and trash bins.
• Miles 278-293 No camping is permitted (due to environmental concerns).
• Mile 284 Toolik Lake. The University of Alaska Fairbanks research station is not open to the public. Avoid disturbing their research sites scattered nearby.
• Mile 312 Pump station #3.
• Mile 334 Location of a large construction worker camp during the building of the pipeline and known as "Happy Valley," there is a campsite. The airstrip is used for gov't and university studies in the area, so avoid camping on it.
• Mile 348 A pullover with a short trail and interpretive signs. Peregrine falcons feed in nearby bluffs in summer. The Philip Smith Mountains can be seen in the distance.

Miles 355-414 pass through the Coastal Plain. This low-lying region is largely marsh and wet-lands during the summer. Don't be fooled though as permafrost lies just inches below the bottom of these shallow marshes. The plain is home to significant numbers of caribou and migratory birds feasting on the billions of insects which breed in these marshes. In winter, the plain is a flat, solid, windswept wasteland with only the distant Brooks Range as something discernible.

• Mile 355 a pullover with an outhouse and trash containers.
• Mile 359 Pump station #2.
• Mile 383 Colorful, iron-rich bluffs on the far bank of the river. Caribou are often found along the river.
• Mile 414 Deadhorse (pop. 25, Mile 414), the northern terminus of the highway and essentially a "company town", is in the midst of the Prudhoe Bay oilfield, and has a non-permanent population of 2,000-3,000 employees of the various oil operations. The Dalton Highway ends just a few miles inland of the Arctic Ocean, however, only private, restricted roads extend to the ocean. Fortunately, there are tours which can be booked through the hotels which not only take you to the ocean and its gravel beach (where you can take a frigid dip, joining the "Polar Bear Club") but also include a tour of the oilfield and operations. The ocean is ice-free from late July to October. Remember when leaving that there are no services for 240 miles (386 km) until you reach Coldfoot!

At a minimum, plan three days to make the trip between Fairbanks to Deadhorse and back. Assuming good road and weather conditions, expect the following travel times from Fairbanks:

• to Yukon River — 3 hours
• to Arctic Circle — 4.5 hours
• to Coldfoot — 6 hours
• to Atigun Pass — 8 hours
• to Deadhorse — 13+ hours

The above times do not factor in rests, wildlife viewing, or delays due to construction or bad weather.

Due to the scarcity of services, the traveler on this road will need a certain degree of self-sufficiency while traveling along the highway on your own. Therefore, you are advised to bring what is listed in the Prepare section.

A wide variety of different road surfaces will be encountered by travelers on the Dalton. The beginning 100 miles are said to be the worst (pothole wise), but that may just be the time it takes to get acclimated to road conditions. This surface is gravel/dirt and is littered with a landscape of craters and potholes that will often slow your pace down to the 10 mph mark, or destroy your suspension. Later on, a few patches of paved road will be encountered, but in a rough arctic environment like this, it is apparent they don't hold up too well. Be constantly on the lookout for massive potholes on any part of the road. These will sneak up on you suddenly after a comfortable few miles. Further north, the gravel roads seem to be in better condition and they permit higher speeds.

There are no medical facilities on the highway. The nearest hospital is in Fairbanks. Oil companies likely have limited clinical facilities in Deadhorse should you find yourself in desperate circumstances, but are otherwise only for employees. Should you find yourself gravely ill, a medical evacuation is very expensive, takes much longer than is standard in the rest of the US, and can be limited or impossible during severe winter weather.

Should you decide to collect water from streams, it is advisable to boil such water as giardia is common in Alaskan streams and very contagious.

Weather is an important factor to add into Dalton Highway Trip calculations. Remember, this is the Arctic! During the summer it is very possible to encounter heavy snow while driving through the Brooks Range via Atigun Pass. Drive with extreme caution on the windy mountain roads. The gravel can be very slippery, especially in rain or snow. During the winter, the area may sustain temperatures below -60°F (-51°C) (which is cold enough to freeze your brake fluid!). As mentioned earlier such temperatures are fatal and thus winter travel is highly discouraged.

The Dalton Highway passes through territory of the fearsome grizzly bear. Understand that black bear attacks are almost always defensive, whereas grizzly bear attacks are predatory (often unexpected). Bear repellent spray (a very strong pepper spray/mace) is considerably safer than carrying a rifle. See this article for comprehensive information on bear safety. In the winter, polar bears can roam the North Slope. Polar bears are massive, as ferocious as the grizzly bear, and very stealthy (and in darkness, not very discernible from the snow). Fortunately, you probably won't be outdoors during the season polar bears migrate into the region. You cannot learn enough about bear safety in this region. Consult one of the visitor's centers along the highway for more information and brochures.

You may encounter wolves and foxes in this region. Moose can be dangerous if threatened. They weigh, on average, 1,400 lb (640 kg) and have 6 ft wide antlers. Being mauled or stepped on by a moose can be lethal or leave you seriously injured in a region where medical services are distant and take hours for you to be treated. Animal life along the Dalton is great, but enjoy them at a distance.

Also visible are Dall sheep, musk-ox, caribou, wolverines (rare), and other smaller mammals.

• Fairbanks Medical Dispatch: (life-threatening emergencies only) ☏ +1-800-811-0911
• Alaska State Troopers (police):
  • CB radio: Channel 19
  • Coldfoot ☏ +1 907-678-5211
  • Fairbanks ☏ +1 907-451-5100