Çanakkale

This area has been settled at least since 3000 BC. Çanakkale is the closest modern town to ancient Troy: the ten-year conflict described in Odyssey and Iliad is fictional but the Hellenistic city-states were often at war. The Grecian settlement here was called Dardanellia (Δαρδανέλλια). It was at a pinchpoint in the straits of Dardanelles, here only 1.5 km across, so it had double strategic value: as a crossing place, and as a redoubt for controlling shipping through the straits. The Persian Empire under Xerxes and the Macedonians under Alexander the Great were two of the armies that marched this way.

The stakes were raised in 1462 when the Ottomans became established in Thrace, and built the fortress of Kale-i-Sultaniye. By then a cannon-blast could reach over halfway across the straits, so with an artillery position here and another on the opposite bank at Kilitbahir you had control. Those straits to the northeast broaden out into the Sea of Marmara, then pinch again into the Bosphorus, so Çanakkale controlled access to Istanbul, the Black Sea, and Russia.

This enabled the Ottomans to build a great empire by land and sea. The town became known for its fine-glazed pottery and from the 18th century was dubbed Çanak kalesi - "pottery castle". During the 19th and 20th century the Ottoman Empire crumbled, with national independence movements and other Great Powers wresting away territories in the Balkans, and Russia chafing at being bottled up in the Black Sea. During World War I, Turkey sided with Germany and Austria, separating the western Allies from Russia, so it was the nut that the west needed to crack.

By then, artillery power had greatly increased thanks to the engineering advances of Alfred Krupp. Gun positions didn't just line the straits, but were ranged around the coasts to control the sea approaches. In March 1915 the Allied navies tried to blast their way into the straits, fatally underestimating the firepower of this "pottery castle". A combination of minefields and cannonade inflicted great damage on them and on 18 March the survivors of their fleet limped away, a date still celebrated in Turkey. The Allies therefore made shore landings on the Gallipoli peninsula from 25 April to knock out those guns. They also sought to stop Turkish reinforcements pouring into the area and re-arming the coast. It was never their plan to fight a land battle all the way up the peninsula, but once the fleet could sail through the straits, Turkey's flank would be turned and its defences would unravel. The landings did capture their beachheads but the whole operation was bungled and far too slow, so the Allies were pinned down, couldn't advance beyond the beachheads and never silenced the guns: see Eceabat#Understand for more. The Allies endured their hopeless positions for almost a year, with great loss of life on both sides, then evacuated. It was a conflict that became seared into western political memory, and shaped the modern identity of Turkey.

Most of the places in Çanakkale are in walking distance. Dolmuşes run toward the War History Museum and beach strip to the south.

The Tourist Office has closed down, but lots of travel agents will sell you tours. These are the best way to reach Troy and the Gallipoli memorials if you don't have your own car.

Car rental: Avis are by the ferry pier, and Budget are 500 m north along the waterfront.

• City Museum, Fetvane Sokak 31 (By ferry pier), ☏ +90 286 214 3417. Tu-Su 10:00-19:00. Small museum of city history and, uh, local bicycling? It's cramped and signage in only in Turkish. Free. (updated Jan 2022)
• 🌍 Trojan Horse (Truva Atı): The war has dragged on for nine years, the troops are near mutiny, and the last counter-attack from the besieged city was costly - we may have to quit. Say, let's pretend to quit and sail away, but leave behind by a giant model horse full of malware, which they'll import into the city . . . the tumult of Athens against Troy was matched by the tumoils of making the film Troy in 2004. Its Mediterranean scenes were filmed in Malta; it got mixed critical reviews but had a big-name cast and did well at the box office. When the movie-makers left (or pretended to do so) they left behind this giant steel and fibreglass film prop. The Maltese were understandably suspicious and wouldn't accept it, so it ended up here. Whatever you do, don't open it up!
• A cannon used in the battle of 1915 now guards Cumhuriyet Blvd by the ferry pier. It was this and similar artillery plus minefields that repulsed the naval attack, with the Allied fleet retreating on 18 March, a date still celebrated as a national victory. So the Allies' next ploy was the Gallipoli landings from April 25, to try to knock out the shore guns.
• 🌍 Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi), Fevzipaşa Mahallesi, Çimenlik Sokak, ☏ +90 286 213 1730. Tu-Su 09:00-12:00, 13:30-17:00. This is centred on Çimenlik Castle (aka Kale-i Sultaniye), built in 1452 to command the straits, and remaining in use to 1915, when it was bombarded by the Allies. The museum has various boats, artefacts and exhibits on local battles. At anchor is a replica of the minelayer Nusret. The original ship laid mines that sank three Allied warships and crippled three others. She had various post-war roles and sank near Mersin in 1989. She was eventually refloated and converted into a museum ship in Mersin, meanwhile this replica had been built, and opened as a museum in 2011. Adult 13 TL. (updated Jan 2022)
• Piri Reis (Ahmet Muhiddin Piri 1465-1553) was an admiral, best known for his maps, among the first to depict North America. This gallery is near the Trojan Horse. The collection has also been housed in the Naval Museum and it's not known which, if any, are open in 2022.
• Necip Paşa Mosque is at the north end of the promenade. It's a rebuild of 1953, as an earthquake in 1903 beach demolished the original.
• 🌍 Ceramics Museum, Kaya Sokak 31, ☏ +90 286 211 0130. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. Museum with interesting ceramics - many of the modern pieces are for sale - sited in an old hammam. Free. (updated Jan 2022)
• Colouring-book stairs (Renkli Kitap Merdivenler) are a piece of street art a block south of the Ceramic Museum.
• Commonwealth war graves are in two plots 1 km inland up İsmetpaşa.
• 🌍 War History Museum (Anadolu Hamidiye Tabyası-Çanakkale Savaşları Tarih Müzesi), Aziziye Cd, ☏ +90 286 214 0200. Tu-Su 10:00-17:00. Extensive museum set in the shore fortifications depicting the battles of World War I. (updated Jan 2022)
• 🌍 Dardanos tumulus is an ancient burial chamber. In 2022 the site is a mess. In legend Dardanos was the son of Zeus and Elektra, and an ancestor of Aeneas. Zeus flooded the world so only a few mountain tops remained as islands, so Dardanos initially lived on Samothrace but moved to found a settlement on Mount Ida. The real mountain of that name is 50 km further south, and Dardanos little suspected that when the waters receded, they would uncover the seaside resort that now bears his name.
• 🌍 Güzelyalı is the next beach strip south. You're unlikely to find the village museum open, nor the military museum 1 km inland.
• See Geyikli for sights further south, and for ferries to Bozcaada.
• 🌍 Radar Hill is the pleasant forested hill overlooking the town.
• 🌍 Atikhisar Castle is a gnarly stump 6 km east of town off D210 towards Çan. The oldest parts may be 2700 years old, and they look every day of that. The castle remained in use to about 1000 AD, guarding the road through the mountains, and nowadays it overlooks a reservoir lake.
• 🌍 Yenice is a town further east along D210/555, which by this point becomes particularly scenic but starts to feel like you're well past that wrong turn you shouldn't have taken towards nowhere. The town runs a thermal resort on its lush outskirts and that's about all that can be said about it — except it happens to be the hometown of internationally-acclaimed Turkish director and screenwriter Nuri Bilge Ceylan, a potential claim to fame the town doesn't wish to acknowledge. A single short visit is plenty to understand where the prevalent theme of soul-crushing countryside monotony in Ceylan's films apparently springs from.
• 🌍 Nara Castle 6 km north of town is a fortress built in 1807, but off-limits as it's still in military use. It was built over the site of ancient Abydos, so nothing remains of that. From 670 BC it was a fishing port (especially for tuna) and the main ferry port for crossing the Dardanelles. Someone should have mentioned this to Leander, who in legend swam across nightly to visit his ladyfriend Hero in Sestos, but who met a watery end. Lord Byron in 1810 also swam the straits with even less excuse, as he'd brought a Royal Navy frigate with him: see Gelibolu for more on both stories and for the ruins of Sestos. Abydos was abandoned by the 14th century when the crossing route shifted north, and its masonry was briskly removed for use elsewhere.

• Aqualand on the coast between Kepez and Dardanos beaches has water-rides, flumes and so on. Suitable for younger children, older teens will be bored. It's open year-round daily 10:00-18:00, adult 80 TL, child 50-60 TL.
• Don't swim across the Hellespont unless you're an experienced distance swimmer and have proper back-up and local expertise over currents and shipping lanes. Swimming specialist agencies can organise this, such as Swimtrek, and there's an annual Hellespont swim race in late August. Never treat it as an afternoon lark of "last across buys the beers". The channel here is 1.5 km wide by 70 m deep, and the pinchpoint makes the currents all the stronger. The main flow is outbound, as all the drainage into the Black Sea comes this way to join the Med. But there's a deep backflow, and where they meet creates turbulence felt on the surface.
• Observe the centenary of the Turkish Republic on 29 Oct 2023. Events will be nationwide; the programme has not yet been announced but given their place in the nation's history, the Çanakkale and Gallipoli areas are sure to feature prominently.

• Lots of ATMs near the ferry pier. The stores are a few blocks inland.

• Local specialties are bomba (a döner in half a loaf with an omelette inside), and peynir helvasi a dessert of cheese, egg yolk, semolina and sugar.
• There are several places around the ferry pier and east along the waterfont, but the main cluster is west on Yalı Cd towards the Naval Museum.
• Husmenoglu is a patisserie famous for its peynir helvasi. It's at Yalı Cd 29 and open daily 08:00-23:30.

Town nightlife is west of the harbour near the clock tower. Many places have live music at weekends.

• Dolmuş Pub, Fetvane Sk 17/A, ☏ +90 530 544 26 03. Daily 14:00-02:00. Coffees and beers in a renovated historic house with an open-air backyard where smoking is allowed. (updated Feb 2023)
• Yalı Hanı, Fetvane Sk 31. 08:00-00:00. A coffee house with rustic wooden tables and chairs, offering tea, coffee, and beer in the courtyard of an inn dating back to the 1880s. Visit in the spring, when the huge wisteria vine covering the courtyard is in full purple bloom - in summer the yard lacks shade. No food, but you can bring in eats from a nearby bakery. (updated Jan 2022)

This isn't a tourist town, but its position as regional capital means lots of small hotels for business and other domestic travel. They're clustered along the street leading from the ferry pier. Another strip is by the beach a few km south.

There is 4G from all Turkish carriers in the city and on the approach highways and ferries. As of Jan 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Lotus Game Center is an internet cafe by the ferry pier, open daily 09:00-01:00.

• Kilitbahir is reached by a short ferry crossing from Çanakkale. Near it are the artillery positions which the ANZAC landings of 1915 were trying to knock out, so that Allied warships could sail up the straits to Istanbul. Over on the west coast are the ANZAC beachheads, pinned down by the Turkish defence so the Allies never reached the shore guns and their campaign was a disaster. You need a vehicle to reach these, or join an organised tour.
• Gökçeada is an island reached by ferry from Kabatepe west of Eceabat, or by summer water-bus from Çanakkale. It has semi-abandoned Greek villages.
• Bozcaada the island to the south is reached by ferry from Geyikli. It has an attractive old town and vineyards.
• Troy 30 km south is the ruins of an ancient city, in legend the target of the Trojan War. It has an excellent museum and the inevitable mock-up wooden horse.
• Bayramiç (70 km south via Ezine) is on the northern approaches to the forests of Mount Ida or Kazdağı (see Edremit for the southern approaches); Ayazma Pınarı 29 km southeast of the town is a particularly scenic, heavily forested nature park with waterfalls, trails and picnic facilities. The area is also the home to much of Turkey's nascent back-to-the-land and eco-settlements community.
• Assos or Behramkale 100 km south is an old harbour with a hilltop Temple of Athena and great views over the Aegean; Aristotle founded a philosophy academy there.
• Along the Troad Coast is an itinerary south of Çanakkale combining visits to Troy, Assos, and other historic sites along the Aegean coast.
• Istanbul to Izmir is an itinerary with one branch following the Gallipoli peninsula then crossing through Çanakkale towards Troy.