Darjeeling

Darjeeling (DAHR-jih-lihng) used to be a cluster of villages that was administered intermittently by Nepal and Sikkim. It grew in prominence during the mid-19th century when, because of its climate, the British established a hill station there.

Later it was discovered that the area was particularly well suited for tea plantations and Darjeeling tea is still exported worldwide. In 1849, the British annexed the area and Darjeeling became a part of British India. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway was opened in 1881 (it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the town became famous during the days when the Raj was governed from Calcutta, the present-day Kolkata.

Many Tibetan refugees moved here after Tibet was annexed by China. They co-exist with the descendants of the many Nepalese who once came to the land as soldiers of Prithvi Narayan Shah and settled down there to work as labourers in the tea plantations.

There has been intermittent political action from Gorkha groups demanding an independent state (Gorkhaland). In June 2008 a strike paralyzed the area, with closed hotels, restaurants and shops, and the accompanying protests even turned violent a couple of times. Though inconvenient, tourists generally are not at risk, but you should check the status before going there.

Nepali is the main language spoken in Darjeeling. However, as it is in the state of West Bengal, Bengali is the state official language that is used in state government offices. In addition, most well-educated locals will also be able to speak Hindi and English.

Darjeeling is a small town and the salubrious climate means walks around town are an extremely enjoyable means of getting around. For longer trips, taxis are available in stands near the entrance to the Supermarket.

A great way to spend a day is to take a share-terrain vehicle to Ghum, visit some monasteries there and walk back via some of the villages.

One can also walk to the botanical garden and spend a few pleasant hours appreciating nature, then there is a rock garden, which is very much at a (slightly longish) walkable distance. One can also walk to the zoo and then to the ropeway at North Point. A walk to the Peace Pagoda and then to Jalapahar is also quite refreshing. Have a leisurely walk on the Mall road and relax for hours in the soothing sun at Chowrasta.

• 🌍 Bhutia Busty Monastery (Karmaa Dorjee Chyoling Monastery). This monastery was built in 1761 by Lama Dorje Rinzing above the Observatory Hill, where the Mahakal Temple stands now. Later it was re-located downhill to Bhutia Busty. (updated May 2023)
• 🌍 Dali Monastery (Druk Sangag Choling Monastery). This is the biggest monastery in this region. It was built in 1971. It is the head quarters and residence of Drukchen Rimpoche the XII, the head of the Kargyupa sect of Buddhists. 
• 🌍 Aloobari Monastery (Yolmowa Mak Dhog Monastery). Located in Aloobari on way from Darjeeling to Jorbunglow, this is the least visited monastery as it is located away from the main road. Established in 1914, The monastery offers some breathtaking views of the Tiger Hill region and houses some old rare Buddhist manuscripts. (updated Nov 2022)
• 🌍 Botanical garden. The green house has quite a nice collection of flowers. 
• 🌍 Himalayan Zoo (Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park) (shares the premises of HMI). F-W 8:30AM-4PM. It has a good collection of the more charismatic animals found in the Himalayan region, including leopards, a rare Bengal tiger, and red pandas. ₹50 SAARC countries, ₹100 foreigners. Includes entrance to Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. (updated Nov 2022)
• 🌍 Japanese Peace Pagoda. This impressing building is part of a grid of around 30 pagodas spanning the whole globe. Constructed by the Japanese Buddhist Nipponzan-Myohoji Order, the one at Charlimont on the outskirts of Darjeeling was consecrated in 1992. A small temple just lies alongside. If you're woken up due to the sound of drumming in the streets of Darjeeling between 4 and 5AM: These are the monks (Theravada) of the Japanese temple having their early morning walk. 
• 🌍 Nightingale Park/Shrubbery Park (mid-way between Chowrasta and HMI/zoo, a 10-minute flat walk from either). Daily 9AM-5PM year-round. Cultural programme runs approximately April-Nov 2-4PM. A beautiful park with a package of cultural program performed daily during the tourist season. The park features a giant Statue of Lord Shiva, a temple, and provisions for live-interactive entertainment. The best time to visit the park is in the evenings. You may think of it as an alternative to Tiger-hill to see the sunlight magic on Kangchenjunga from this park. Good spot for photographers, as this place is not very crowded. Nice landscape is visible from this park. ₹20. 
• 🌍 Observatory Hill & Mahakal Temple. Observatory Hill is the oldest site in Darjeeling. This hill is also known as the “Makal-Babu-Ko-Thaan” in local area. It is said that a Red Hat Buddhist Monastery stood at this very spot. Nepal people destroyed this monastery in the 19th century. The Mahakal Temple now stands on this hill. 
• 🌍 Rock Garden. A beautiful place with a small waterfall. This place has varieties of flowers landscaped in the rocks. Females can also get dressed in the local dress and take pictures. (updated Nov 2022)
• 🌍 Tiger Hill. Ideal to visit early morning when the first rays of the sun kiss the Kangchenjunga mountain and give it a golden colour. To visit the hill, one needs to get up at 3AM in the morning. You can taste some excellent tea on your way to the hill, which will provide much needed warmth on cold Darjeeling mornings. When getting into a taxi at 3AM, keep in mind that they are shared taxis and your driver might wait around in vain for others to join your taxi causing you to miss the sunrise! Those traveling alone or as a couple might want to squeeze into an already occupied terrain vehicle to insure full viewing pleasure. Though it has executive lounge (₹40 per person) and special lounge (₹30 per person), nothing beats having view from open area as you can have a full panoramic view from outside avoiding crowd in the lounge. The early you can reach, the best place you can find to stand inside or outside the observatory tower. If you are late, you may find yourself standing behind many people and a lot of obstructions to feel the sunrise and magic lighting Kangchenjunga. You may also need to walk a lot to reach there via a steep ascendant road. But, as of 2022, the forest department charges ₹50 per head to enter this region as it is a place inside a forest. (updated Nov 2022)
• 🌍 Dhirdham Temple (just below Darjeeling station). This temple was built by Purna Bahadur Pradhan in 1939. (updated Jan 2017)
• 🌍 St. Andrew's Church (near the famous mall). This church was built in 1843. (updated Jan 2017)
• 🌍 Happy Valley Tea Estate, Pamphawati Gurungni Rd (walk north along Hill Cart Rd for 2 km, then walk down the hill at the sign), ☏ +91 80-1770-0700. Tu-Su 8AM-4PM. Quite a hike from the centre, Darjeeling's second oldest tea estate is open for visitors. An employee will guide visitors through the tea factory, showing the full process of tea production and explaining the different varieties of tea. At the end of the tour, tea samples are tested and you can buy teas produced from the estate. ₹100. (updated Apr 2017)
• 🌍 Old Cemetery. (updated Jun 2020)
• Mahakal Mandir (just behind the Mall area). A Shiva temple at a top height; it will take some hardships to be there. (updated Jul 2022)

Darjeeling is one of the oldest hill stations in India, and has plenty of options, both for those seeking a lazy getaway from the hot plains, as well as nature enthusiasts and adrenaline junkies. Apart from sights within the town, there are plenty of trek options along the Himalayan ridges on the India-Nepal border near Darjeeling. The most popular one is the Singalila Ridge Trail. Bookings for guides, porters and accommodation on the trail can be made in Darjeeling or in the nearby town of Manebhanjang, which serves as the trailhead. From July to mid-September the Singalila park is closed, but because of the rain, clouds and fog it is less enjoyable anyway.

• Shrubbery Health Club. Less visited but offers unique and charming views of Kangchenjunga. Few locals can been found jogging here and offering prayers to various deities. 

• 🌍 Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), ☏ +91 9711100094. F-W 8:30AM-4PM. This is one of the most visited spots in Darjeeling. This institute was created by the late Tenzing Norgay, and you can pay your respects at his grave here too. He was a Sherpa who climbed Mount Everest on in 1953 with Sir Edmund Hillary. All the equipment used in that climb are still a highlight in that institute. ₹50 SAARC countries, ₹100 foreigners. Includes entrance to Himalayan Zoo. (updated Nov 2022)

• Curio items pertaining to Tibetan and Himalayan cultures, such as thangkas, miniature monasteries and garments made from yak wool. Shops are located in and around the Rink Mall, Chowrasta and Darjeeling Local Haat:
  • Das Studio, The Mall (on the way to Mall). Posters and picture postcards. Excellent selection of posters and cards depicting scenes of the Himalayas. 
  • Dorjee (20 paces uphill from Rink Mall, across the street from the General Post Office). A unique shop that has a fascinating collection of Buddhist and other local artefacts. This place, though surprisingly small, is more like a mini Aladdin’s cave for objet-d'art lovers. However, the owner is rude towards Indians and they are frequently cold shouldered unlike the deep interest shown to foreign customers. When buying artifacts it is best to take a look round and not to appear in a hurry. You may try few other shops, which are opposite the State Bank of India and also below the Chowrasta mall. (updated Feb 2017)
• Handbags & Junk Jewellery. Darjeeling is a place where you can get variety of ladies' hand bags and junk jewellery at a completely affordable price. You can try to bargain if you really like a piece. 
• Oxford Bookshop, Chowrasta. Excellent selection of titles. Local travel guides. 
• Tea. Darjeeling is famous all over the world for its teas, which are very aromatic and have a delicate taste. Shops selling teas (usually owned by local tea gardens), dot the area in and around the Mall, and at the Chowrasta. Golden Tips & Nathmulls are especially known for their tea and also ship worldwide. Another mention is a local tea shop, Thunderbolt Tea located on the way to Happy Valley Tea Estate. Stop by to smell the numerous varieties they have to offer. 'Darjeeling Tea House' located just diagonal to Nathmulls is also a good place to purchase tea. Location: Rink Mall

Currency Exchange. Riddhi Siddhi Exchange in Darjeeling. 11 Laden La Rd. Up hill from the Foreigner's Registration Office. It may give you better rates for larger amounts.

Several eateries that dish out North Indian, Nepali, Tibetan, and continental fare dot the area around the Mall. "Momos", steamed Tibetan delicacies, are a staple food offered by almost every eating joint.

Everything closes pretty early in the night (The town goes to sleep before 9PM; plan to be at your restaurant no later than 7PM). If you are planning to stay up late, you might keep something extra in stock to eat.

• Boney's Snack Bar, Capital Market, Ladenla Road (opp Clock Tower, Near Hayden Hall). Serves very good grilled sandwiches, sandwiches, pizzas, burgers and even pastas. 
• Cake Lady, ☏ +919547457734. Cake Lady makes cakes, muffins and brownies to order and even delivers them free of charge to your hotel or home in Darjeeling town. The cakes are a taste of home using quality ingredients (sourced locally and organic wherever possible). Order the day before. 
• 🌍 Glenary's Bakery and Cafe, Nehru Road, ☏ +91 354 225 8408. 6AM-9PM. It was known as "Plivas" during the British tim. Glenary's is divided into 3 restaurants - the upper deck is specially more decent and apt for families and good for lunch and dinner. The second one below the upper deck is the confectionary and a restaurant ideal for a cup of Darjeeling Tea and also a good breakfast. The lower deck is known as "The Buzz" where a live music band will be playing and is more of fun stuff with bar and food. Yes, it is a good place for cakes, pastries, the ubiquitous Darjeeling cuppa, sizzlers and North Indian fare. Offers nice views of Mt Kanchendjunga on clear days. (updated Dec 2018)
• Golden Tips Tea Cosy, Chowrasta, The Mall, ☏ +91 354-2253251. 8:30AM-9PM. Darjeeling tea in loose (estate) & handcrafted gift packaging. Over 250 varieties - Darjeeling black, green, oolong, white, flavored, herb teas. Gourmet tea sit in service with a handsome and well presented range of snacks and eatables. Tea menu with almost 75 kinds of different hot & iced teas, tea mocktails. Tea paraphernalia like metal and silver tea sets & pots, strainers, infusers, spoons, tea cosies, etc. ₹300-12,000. 
• Hot Stimulating Cafe. On the way to Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, on Hooker Road, is this lovely little cosy place with pictures of Bob Marley covering one whole wall. The Momos here are awesome! They even offer a Momo-cooking course! If you want to taste the local home brewed beer Tongba, this is the place. The guy who owns it can double up as your local guide, trekking along with you to some adventurous outings from Darjeeling. 
• Hotel Lunar. This is probably the best vegetarian restaurants in town where you can enjoy a great view and wonderful service. 
• Kanika's (Veggie Lovers), H.D. Lama road, (beside Bank of India), ☏ +91 -0354-2258721-22-23. A small but artistically designed hotel with lot of interesting painting. For vegetarians good place to eat with North and South Indian dishes, Chinese. One must taste Thupka (soupy noodles) here. If you play guitar just pick the guitar keep in the reception and start playing it! Medium range. 
• 🌍 Keventers (50 meters from the Mall). This place with its awesome western delicacies and cool view was featured in a number of movies and books. Don't forget to try the chicken sausages, pork platter and the chocolate milk shake. The sandwiches here are great too. The first floor is the restaurant, while you can buy meatloaf, sausages, cheese etc. from the ground floor store. Good place to buy Kalimpong and Nepal Cheese. 
• 🌍 Kunga's. An excellent Tibetan place, situated just above the clocktower. It serves superb Tibetan food, including hearty Tibetan soups (Thentuk is recommended). It is, however, tiny, hence often full and crowded. 
• Nathmull's Tea Cosy, The Rink Mall (Opposite General Post Office) (at the entrance of the Rink Mall), ☏ +91 354-2257309. A great place tastefully done up with an amazing ambience and collection of hundreds of varieties of Darjeeling teas. Serving almost 100 varieties of tea & tea mocktails from a tea menu. A large collection of tea accessories such as silver tea pots & sets, tea cosies, tea strainers & infusers books on teas & other paraphernalia ₹20 to ₹12,000. 
• 🌍 Revolver, 110 Gandhi Road (through wraught iron gate and behind the yellow Union Chapel), ☏ +91 8371-919527, stay@revolver.in. If you want to try Naga dishes, this is the place. Non-veg plates made with ingredients such as smoked pork and fermented bamboo shoots. But you need to place orders in advance (at least 3 hr) for lunch or dinner. under 300. (updated Mar 2017)
• The Park (50 m from the clock tower). Located near the clock tower, this restaurant is especially popular with tourists. They have two menu cards, one Thai and the other Indian, and the cook mastered both cuisines. The Thai cuisine is quite excellent. Try their Thai style chicken rice noodle. ₹90-150. 
• Beni's Cafe. Opposite the Big Bazaar, Near the Rink Mall. 3, Dr.S.M. Das Road. Around the corner from the Timber Lodge (100 m). Snacks, drinks and sweets. Lots of local people here. Price is OK.

• Joey's Pub – Pop into Joey's Pub for some cheap beer, great hospitality, cricket on TV etc. A British-looking pub popular with travellers. A good place to pick up trekking information and travel partners to fill a terrain vehicle to Sikkim or down to the plains.
• Kho Cha, Laden La Road, ☏ +91 354 225 7308. a snazzy tea boutique having a very wide frontage even though the place is not all that big. Over 50 kinds of finely packaged teas from Darjeeling & other areas in India. Oolong, black, green, white, CTC, spiced, herbal & many more. Besides, they also have almost 25 kinds of estate teas to see, taste & select. The place even has a small 4-seater tea bar with a proper Tea Menu! Interesting and very well located. Few accessories are also available. Teas can also be bought from their online website which is quite nice. 
• Tea – Darjeeling tea is world renowned after all. Also called the 'Champagne of Teas', You can taste and buy the best teas in the market & at Tea Cosy, the tea parlours with an excellent environment located inside the Rink Mall and at the Golden Tips Chowrasta.
• 🌍 Sunset Lounge (Natmulls), Chowrasta Sq (from Chowrasta Sq, walk into the small lane down towards Mahakal Market). 9AM-8PM. Tea bar with friendly and enthusiastic staff ready to share their knowledge on tea. A big selection of teas is available (black, green, white, etc). The balcony gives a view over the mountains, especially nice in sunset, hence the name. You can also buy pastries, but having a tea pot of Darjeeling can't be missed here. They also sell teas and tea accessories for taking home. Free Wi-Fi. Cup ₹50, big Darjeeling tea pot (5 cups) ₹130. (updated Oct 2016)

Darjeeling has a large number of hotels and lodges. However, on the whole, budget accommodation is of poor value compared to elsewhere in India. Most places target groups coming in from West Bengal; backpacker-oriented accommodation is sparse and you probably won't get touts coming to pick you up at the bus stop so it pays to have a few ideas in advance.

There are several forest guesthouses in the Darjeeling area. In order to stay at any of these a special permit from West Bengal Forest Department is required.

There has been a surge of tourists visiting Darjeeling in the last few years. Earlier, there was continuous turmoil and political disturbance in the hills. But since the establishment of the new government in 2011, the political stability has been restored and life came back to normal.

But extreme suffering and poor state of business, development, jobs and infrastructure has created deep scars, which may take some more time to heal. So a note of caution is given while travelling around the city.

Take caution when walking at night, as many feral dogs roam the street once the sun goes down. If approached by an aggressive dog in the street, acting as though you are picking up a rock to throw will usually deter them.

• Kalimpong - (50 km away) a hill station in Lesser Himalaya and is recognized for educational institutions. Most of those were formulated during the British colonial period. The town has many religious sightseeing places apart from beautiful views of mountains.
• Kurseong - (35 km away) home to the most expensive teas in the entire world. Some popular tea gardens such as Ambotia, Makaibari and Castleton produce special aromas which are difficult to cultivate elsewhere.
• Mirik - (50 km away) nestled in the serene hills of Darjeeling, It is a picturesque location. Mirik has become a highly famous tourist place because of its natural beauty, climate and easy accessibility.
• Sikkim - (100  km away) with more than 40% of the area covered with forest, Sikkim boasts of its natural beauty. It is well known for its lush green valleys and snow-covered hills.
• Siliguri - (80 km away) on the banks of the Mahananda River, Siliguri is a prime educational, transportation, tourism and commercial centre in West Bengal. The town also acts as a key transit point for railway, road and air traffic to the northeastern states of India and other neighbouring countries such as Bhutan and Nepal.