Denarau

Denarau is a resort in the Nadi region of Fiji.

Understand

Denarau juts out of a peninsula like an angry pimple, some 10 km south of Nadi International Airport and 5 km northwest of the town of Nadi. It was molded into its present form in the 1980s by rapacious Japanese developer Harunori Takahashi, who bulldozed its 850 acres of swamps and mangroves and replaced them with high-end resorts, golf courses, marinas and gated housing. The only mosquito in the ointment is that mangroves grow in mud, meaning that despite decades of landscaping, including a few truckloads of imported white sand in strategic spots, both the beaches around Denarau and the water lapping at them are expanses of impenetrable slate grey muck.

The resorts thus expend much effort to distract tourists from this rather basic failing. They're all suspended well above the surf on concrete plates, angled so that you can Instagram the infinity edge pool and have it blend seamlessly into the palm-fringed Mamanuca Islands in the background, conveniently ignoring all that squelchy mud in the middle. The roads and gardens are manicured, the fancy housing complexes with names like Paradise Point and Sovereign Quays are behind tall, sturdy fences with more security out front, and the Port Denarau shopping mall has a Hard Rock Cafe, duty free retailers and a shoppe (sic) dedicated to Fiji Bitter couture. It's all very artificial and generic, and to ensure that the real Fiji doesn't intrude, the resort is separated from the mainland by a short bridge with a 24/7 manned checkpoint armed by private security at the entrance.

Get in

Denarau is a 15 minute drive from Nadi town and up to a 25 minute drive from Nadi International Airport.

The only form of public transport is the Westbus service, which shuttles hotel workers and the occasional tourist and to and from Nadi for a flat $1. You're supposed to pay with a special smart card, but despite printed signs to the contrary, cash is happily accepted.

Get around
  • Bula Bus, ☏ +679 675 0010, . A shuttle bus service that goes around the resort, taking you to all of Denarau's major hotels and attractions. It's the most convenient way to get from one part of the resort to another if it is too far to walk. $8 per adult for a day pass, free for children under 12. (updated Jun 2017)

See

There are no real sights of interest in Denarau. However, there's a rotating schedule of free Fijian dance and music performances at the major hotels, ask at any hotel reception for the schedule.

Do

Learn
  • 🌍 Flavours of Fiji Local Cooking Classes, ☏ +679 6750 840, . M-Sa 9:30AM–4PM. The cooking school offers class, market tours and food tours. A daily session involves eight courses where you learn how to make Fijian dishes, Indo-Fijian dishes as well as tropical sweets. This ranges from root crops, local fruit and vegetables, Fiji's own style of curries and chutneys, and tropical juices. $135 per adult and $105 per child for cooking class only. $180 per adult and $130 per child for cooking class and market tour.. (updated Jun 2017)

Buy

Because much of Denarau was designed and catered for tourists, you will be able to buy many more things in foreign currencies (Australian, US, New Zealand dollars) than in the rest of the country. Shops are also more likely to stay open in the night and on Sundays. However, keep in mind that the souvenirs you will find at Denarau, like black pearls, bula t-shirts and wooden carvings, are more expensive than the same souvenirs at Nadi town, which is itself more expensive than the less flashy towns.

  • 🌍 Port Denarau (take the Bula Bus). The only shopping mall in the resort, a low-rise, mostly open-air cluster consisting primarily of souvenir shops and somewhat overpriced restaurants. However, there is also a small supermarket (Yees Xpressmart) and a pharmacy (Denarau General Store). It also has currency exchange bureau. (updated Jan 2021)

Eat
  • 🌍 Hard Rock Cafe, Port Denarau Shopping Complex, ☏ +679 670-3131, . Daily 10AM-11PM. Here the well known American rock 'n' roll franchise has two levels, 150 seats, authentic merchandise and a performance stage. Happy hour is between 3PM and 6PM daily, during which beers are only $2. Keep in mind that there is nothing particularly Fijian about this Hard Rock. 
  • 🌍 Nadina Authentic Fijian Restaurant, Building C, Shop R1 & R2, Levu, ☏ +679 675 0290. Daily 10AM-11PM. The standout restaurant in Denarau providing local Fiji cuisine. The seafood and kava ceremony is topnotch. Vegetarian options are also available. With oceanfront views, you will feel a cooling sea breeze as you sit and dine at Nadina. 

Drink
  • 🌍 Lulu Bar, Port Denarau Terminal, ☏ +679 672 5858, . Daily 7:30AM–late. They have Fijian and international beers, a variety from wines from New Zealand, Australia and the United States, and a decent selection of cocktails, including their espresso martinis. (updated Jun 2017)

Sleep

The prime resorts of Denarau are all lined up along the northern and western shoreline.

Go next

Denarau Marina is the gateway to the Mamanuca Islands, and there may be transport also to the Yasawa Islands.

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