Fort Bragg

Nestled between the chaotic peaks and valleys formed during ~200 million years of one tectonic plate demanding another give way, and sandwiched between the planet's largest ocean and largest temperate rainforest lies Fort Bragg. 15,000 years ago, at the end of the last ice age, the first indigenous inhabitants, the Hokan, found it and called it home, amazed at the scale of nearly everything they saw. The trees averaged nearly 200 feet in height and 15 feet in diameter, the result of being among the oldest living things anywhere and an extremely mild climate with average annual rainfall over 100 in (2,500 mm). Among them lived elk almost as big as a moose, Olympic black bears, cougars and timber wolves in practically boundless number, fed by the lush, verdant terrain and the fish found teeming in the rivers as much as in the mighty Pacific. Millenia passed like this, so long that the Hokan as well became so abundant that they gave rise to three great Native American nations, the Yuki, Pomo, and Wintun. It was they who saw the first Europeans weigh anchor just off the coast in 1542, representatives of the Spanish Empire. After the Spaniards came the English, then the Russians, and eventually the Americans, but the landscape remained a testament to a grandeur almost always reserved for legends. Valiant efforts were made to exploit each natural resource many times, but the difficulty of transporting goods and people over endless rugged hills and rivers always won out. That's how it earned the nickname The Lost Coast, a place forgotten through the Gold Rush, the Industrial Revolution, and the rise of Silicon Valley, still wild and ready to bewitch all who brave the journey there.

Fort Bragg is the largest town on the Lost Coast, a position of honor nearly guaranteed by the grace of having the largest natural harbor for over 100 miles (160 km) in either direction. On today's maps it is seen to lie within the borders of Mendocino County, named for Antonio de Mendoza, the Viceroy of New Spain who had sent that ship full of Spaniards sailing north up the California coast in 1542.

Two state highways, California Routes 1 and 20, are the sole safe conduits for vehicle travel to the area. Route 1 serves as Fort Bragg's Main Street and widens to two lanes in each direction with a center turn lane while it's within the city limits. Route 20 carries the vast majority of locals and visitors in and out of the area and is almost always referred to as the "Willits Road" by locals rather than its official number. Many long-time residents are quick to remind anyone who will listen that in "their day" it was still a winding dirt road unfit for use by anything but pickup trucks. The addition of the paved road surface was done in stages as CalTrans funds became available starting in 1958 and was completed in 1964, shortly thereafter being added to the state highway system as the final leg of the "Ukiah-Tahoe Highway" as Route 20 was then known.

Factoring in the other state highways that merge into or intersect one of them, there are a total of five potential routes by which to visit if you're travelling by automobile or motorcycle. All are entirely two-lane state highways devoid of artificial illumination with posted speeds of 55 mph (89 km/h), average quality pavement the entire way, and lead to an eventual junction with U.S. Highway 101. If you're not coming from somewhere with obvious access to U.S. 101 any route planning should begin with determining how you'll first reach that thoroughfare. Listed with starting points from north to south the five routes to Fort Bragg are:

• Mendocino Transit Authority (MTA): The only provider of public transit in Mendocino County, ☏ +1-800-696-4682. Service within Fort Bragg and between F.B./Willits/Ukiah is quite affordable and reliable, if not especially frequent, with only two trips in each direction between cities per day.
  • MTA also offers bus service to and from Santa Rosa daily for just $23 one-way. MTA Route 65 -- CC Rider
• Amtrak Thruway Bus Service: Stops four times a day in Willits at the Skunk Train depot parking lot, en route northbound to McKinleyville/the Arcata airport and southbound to the Amtrak rail station in Martinez. You can easily walk from the depot to the junction of CA Routes 1 and 20, where a covered MTA bus stop is located to complete the trip to Fort Bragg. Fares vary but average ~$30 one-way in either direction. ☏ +1-800-872-7245
  • Bus 6314 (Southbound): Willits stop at 8:25AM, arrives in Martinez at 11:55AM
  • Bus 6318 (Southbound): Willits stop at 12:50PM, arrives in Martinez at 6:05PM
  • Bus 6311 (Northbound): Willits stop at 2:30PM, arrives in McKinleyville at 5:25PM
  • Bus 6313 (Northbound): Willits stop at 5:10PM, arrives in McKinleyville at 8:15PM

The mouth of the Noyo River forms one of very few safe harbors between San Francisco and Eureka.

Fort Bragg is on the Pacific Coast Bicycle Route.

• Bus #5: The BraggAbout: Bus service within the city limits by Mendocino Transit Authority, ☏ +1 707-462-1422. Runs hourly costing $1.50 per ride, making a loop through the busiest parts of town.
• Bus #60: The Coaster: Coastal bus service also by MTA, ☏ +1-707-462-1422. Runs three times daily up and down the coast from Fort Bragg to Albion through Mendocino and Little River, costing $3-4 per ride.
• Dial-A-Ride: Curb to curb/taxi service by MTA, ☏ +1 707-964-1800 direct dispatch. M-F 8AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, no Sunday service. $6/ride within Fort Bragg, price goes up quick if you need to get any meaningful distance out of town.

• 🌍 Enterprise Rent-A-Car, 200 E Chestnut St (inside Sport Chrysler Jeep Dodge), ☏ +1 707-964-4300, toll-free: +1-855-266-9289. M-F 8AM-5PM. The only game in town for rental cars. (updated May 2019)
• 🌍 Fort Bragg Cyclery, 301 North Main St (inside Union Lumber Company Store), ☏ +1 707-964-3509. M-F 9:30AM-5:30PM, Sa 9:30AM-5PM. Offering rental bikes for those who want to pedal through town or go mountain biking, as well as a full repair shop should your bike need servicing while here. (updated Jul 2019)

• 🌍 Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, 18220 N Highway 1 (west side of CA Route 1, ¾ mi south of the CA Route 20 junction), ☏ +1 707-964-4352, fax: +1-707-964-3114, info@gardenbythesea.org. Daily 9AM–5PM (Jun-Aug: F Sa until 7PM). One of only a handful of public gardens with ocean frontage in addition to more 47 acres of manicured gardens, fern-ringed ponds, intimate pocket gardens, coastal pine forests, and wildflower-strewn bluffs at the ocean’s edge. The mild maritime climate of the Mendocino Coast offers ideal growing conditions for rhododendrons, heaths and heathers, dahlias, heritage roses, succulents, conifers, and many other plants. The gardens host an annual Festival of Lights in November. $15. (updated Jul 2019)

• 🌍 Glass Beach, West Elm St and Glass Beach Dr, ☏ +1 707-964-8898, info@parks.ca.gov. Everyday sunrise to sunset. A well-known site in Fort Bragg, the former town dump; the beach is covered in old pieces of colored glass that have been worn smooth by the waves. Free. (updated Jul 2019)
• 🌍 Ten Mile Dunes Natural Preserve, Ward Ave., Cleone, info@parks.ca.gov. (updated Aug 2019)

• 🌍 Guest House Museum, 343 North Main St, ☏ +1 707-964-4251. Th-Su 11AM-2PM. Artifacts and pictures telling the history of the forest products industry on the Mendocino Coast. (updated Jul 2019)
• 🌍 Point Cabrillo Lighthouse, 45300 Lighthouse Rd., Mendocino (head south on Highway 1 and halfway to Mendocino turn right on Point Cabrillo Dr. right after the Caspar Bridge; follow it as it winds down by the beach and then climbs back up on the bluffs, once you're back on level ground Lighthouse Road will be on your right), ☏ +1 707-937-6123, info@pointcabrillo.org. Daily 11AM-4PM. A California State Park and National Historic Site with guided tours of the lighthouse and rooms for rent in the old lightkeeper's quarters. $5. (updated Aug 2019)

It began long before the memory of mankind, but the sea remembers when the first pods of California gray whales arrived at the shores of the Eastern Pacific, some 130,000 years ago, give or take a few. An especially ponderous species that lived over 60 years on average and occasionally more than 80, they were seldom in a hurry. Like all descendants of the first filter-feeder whales that first evolved 30 million years ago, they fed on the tiny crustaceans that fill the oceans, but unlike their ancestors the California grays could feed successfully at any depth, from the pitch blackness of the muddy bottom to the sun-kissed whitecaps dancing on the surface the gray whale was at the buffet table. They very quickly fell into a comfortable rhythm, spending the summers off the Alaskan coast gorging on the infinite types of tiny shrimp that stampede through the shallow water close to shore every year at that time. As summer turned to autumn and the shrimp became less plentiful they would migrate south at their usual languid pace, living off the sea lice and sandhoppers that know no season on the ocean bottom along the route following the coastlines of British Columbia and going past California on their way to the ideal calving grounds at which to spend the winters: the crystal blue waters off Baja California, Mexico.

The water temperature there wasn't so punishing to the new mothers, who barely have time to feed as they turn their fat reserves from shrimp buffet into 50-80 pounds of milk daily for each calf. Humans have only been around to bear witness to them for the last 14,000 years or so, and there's no doubt they took notice then as keenly they still do in Fort Bragg each March at the Whale Festival that coincides with the most frequent sightings of gray whale pods (those without newborns in tow leave first and travel at a more consistent speed thus staying more tightly grouped) headed back to Alaska to start the cycle over again.

• 🌍 Fort Bragg Whale Festival (Mendocino Coast Whale Festivals): Annually on the third Saturday of March, ending the following day, 213 E Laurel St, ☏ +1 707-961-6300, chamber4@mcn.org. 10AM-5PM. The celebration in Fort Bragg at the Whale Festival has settled into its own comfortable rhythm, always starting with the 5-km Fun Run in the morning along the bluffs where the original lumber mill once was, building the appetite for the year's entrants in Sunday's Chowder Cook-off to regale the festival goers with their masterpieces for lunch, washed down with local brews. What follows is an afternoon of wine tasting hosted by the downtown merchants in their establishments. At any time patrons are encouraged to stroll the two blocks west from downtown to the bluffs and watch the waves for more of the telltale plumes of water as the whale's spout, and with any luck you'll happen to be present to see one breaching, an explosion of water so violent it looks like a bomb detonating in the water. The following day things wind down with a crafts fair and classic car show, both again held downtown, accompanied by more wine and tasty morsels. The festival wasn't always so laid back but over the years it became obvious that to try and compete with the combination of a quaint, rustic downtown two blocks away from an all-day show put on by the whales was truly a fool's errand; everyone seems much happier now that the whales are allowed to be the star of the show. $40/day per person, $35 presale.

• 🌍 Cucina Verona Ristorante and Mercato, 124 East Laurel St (Take Main Street to the California Western Railroad (Skunk Train) depot where it intersects with Laurel Street. Turn east on Laurel and the restaurant is just half a block away on the south side of the street, just past Headlands Coffeehouse and across Pippi Longstockings.), ☏ +1 707-964-6844, eat@cucinaverona.com. Daily 11AM-3PM, 5-9PM. Extremely cozy and friendly little trattoria, smack-dab in the literal epicenter of the Downtown Business District. Space is at a premium both inside and out on the heated patio, though, so those looking to decompress with a leisurely meal after an afternoon hike will likely need to look elsewhere. Those that don't mind some tight quarters plus hustle & bustle to experience the tastiest Mediterranean cuisine in town need look no further: all the pizzas are fresh and vibrant, scallops and swordfish headline the magnificent seafood options, and all of the classic pasta fare is just like Momma used to make. Stick to beer and wine, though... the cocktails are underwhelming, as is the bar they're served from. ~$35/dinner entrée. (updated May 2022)
• 🌍 KW Saltwater Grill, 542 North Main St (follow Main Street through town until you get to the crossing for the train tracks (Skunk Train), the restaurant is only 25 feet south of them, on the east side of the street), ☏ +1 707-900-1667, kwsaltwatergrill2021@gmail.com. Tu–F 5–9PM, Sa Su 5–9:30PM (closed M). This is a different experience from most anything else in Fort Bragg, feeling more like some of the tiny, chic boutique restaurants that dot the coast around Albion and further south. The bill of fare is ultra-premium, "spare no expense" (literally) and handily meets all those expectations, yet the atmosphere inside is like a cross between a ill friend's bedroom and the reading room at your local library: hushed and calm, yet somehow exceedingly warm and inviting. The wine list is no joke either, though at these prices, it needs to be. The menu is almost totally seafood, but fear not, the few terrestrial protein dishes are just as strikingly delicious. ~$45/dinner entrée. (updated May 2022)

• 🌍 Piaci Pub and Pizzeria, 120 West Redwood Ave, ☏ +1 707-961-1133. M-Th 11AM-9:30PM, F Sa 11AM-10PM, Su 4-9:30PM. Hopping spot presenting thin-crust "adult" pizzas, baked pastas & other casual eats, plus craft beers. Expect to wait for seating; accepts cash only with ATM on-site. (updated Jun 2019)
• 🌍 Noyo River Grill, 32150 North Harbor Dr (on N. Harbor Dr., turn left at North Noyo Park sign; restaurant is in far corner of mobile home park), ☏ +1 707-962-9050. Daily 11AM-9PM. Great outdoor patio, and right on the river almost underneath the bridge where you can watch boats coming in. Frequent live acoustic music and friendly service. (updated Jun 2019)
• 🌍 D’Aurelio and Sons, 438 South Franklin St, ☏ +1 707-964-4227. Daily 5-9PM. Italian comfort food. Pizza, pasta & sandwiches in an unfussy, dinner-only restaurant with a relaxed vibe. Local favorite, off the beaten path. (updated Jun 2019)
• 🌍 Mayan Fusion, 418 North Main St, ☏ +1 707-961-0211. Daily 11AM-9PM. Many of the town's Latino residents hail from the Yucatan peninsula, including the owner of Mayan Fusion. Quite different from other Mexican cuisines, they are liberal with many kinds of citrus and spice. Often busy but wait times are seldom overlong. (updated Jun 2019)
• 🌍 Egghead's Restaurant, 326 North Main St, ☏ +1 707-964-5005. Everyday 7AM-2PM. Omelettes, crepes, sandwiches and burgers, all with a Wizard of Oz theme. (updated Jul 2019)

• 🌍 Princess Seafood Market & Deli, 32410 North Harbor Dr, ☏ +1 707-962-3123, Fishsales@fvprincess.com. W-M 10AM-6PM. Locally-caught fresh seafood. (updated Jul 2019)
• 🌍 Sea Pal Cove, 32390 North Harbor Dr, ☏ +1 707-964-1300. Su-Th 11AM-10PM, F Sa 11AM-11PM. Very limited indoor seating (less than 12 seats) but ample picnic benches with propane heaters at the end of the pier, with a 180° view of two-way river traffic. Preparations are extremely simple, the freshness of the ingredients is the highlight. (updated Jun 2019)

• 🌍 Colombi Studios & Suites, 647 East Oak St, ☏ +1 707-964-5773, colombibiz@hotmail.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. This place is like staying with relatives while on vacation: not all that comfortable, no tolerance of shenanigans of any sort, and if you want something done best to do it yourself. However, like family, this place will always have a few rooms available for you even if you drive here on a whim for on a summer weekend with no reservation and learn that, like the baby Jesus, there's no room for you at the inn you'd hoped to stay at. Have no fear, Mama Colombi will fluff a pillow for you and tell you to come in, relax and offer to make you a sandwich at her grocery store across the street. (updated Jul 2019)

• 🌍 Best Western Vista Manor Lodge, 1100 North Main St, ☏ +1 707-964-4776, toll-free: +1-800-780-7234, fax: +1-707-964-4779. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. No pets allowed and too far from town to walk anywhere but very safe and extremely professional staff. (updated Jul 2019)

• 🌍 Holiday Inn Express, 250 West Highway 20, ☏ +1 707-964-1100, toll-free: +1-888-HOLIDAY (4654329), hieftbragg@gmail.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Newest hotel in town and fantastic amenities but sadly no view to speak of and less than 300 yards from the intersection of the only two highways serving the area, in fact less than 30 feet from the shoulder of one of them. (Read: You will hear every police car, fire truck and ambulance with sirens blaring, up close and personal, on their way to every emergency call in a 20-mi radius, to say nothing of the omnipresent bikers that flock to the area to cruise its endless winding roads.) If you're a sufficiently deep sleeper/lifelong city dweller such that the noise won't drive you mad, and you care more about a clean room with fast WiFi and breakfast in the lobby than an ocean view then look no further, you want to be here. (updated Jul 2019)

• 🌍 Jackson Demonstration State Forest Camp One (Egg Take), W Highway 20 & Road 350 (6 miles east of town on Highway 20 (Postmile 5.85, specifically) turn north onto Road 350 which quickly turns to dirt and switchbacks down the side of Observatory Hill. As long as you're still headed downhill you're doing fine, the campgrounds are along both banks of the Noyo River's south fork (less than 50 ft above sea level) it just takes a while to shed the necessary elevation), ☏ +1 707-964-5674. Check-in: 1PM, check-out: noon. $15/night. (updated Jul 2019)
• 🌍 MacKerricher State Park (Ten Mile Campgrounds), Mill Creek Dr & N Highway 1 (3 miles north of town on the west side of Highway 1, just as the posted speed drops to 35 mph look on your left; Mill Creek Dr can also get you to the park entrance (the long way 'round)), ☏ +1 707-964-9112, +1 707-964-8898, toll-free: +1-800-444-7275, info@parks.ca.gov. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. This is the major natural attraction for visitors: 2,300 acres of coastal forest, sand dunes, estuaries, tide pools and over nine miles of virgin coastline to explore on foot or horseback. Campsites are well-maintained and very closely monitored for disruptive/illegal behavior; reservations made months in advance are nearly mandatory anytime during summer and early autumn. $55/night. (updated Jul 2019)

Fort Bragg is generally a very safe place to bring your pet to experience. The climate is too cool to support the more notorious threats such as rattlesnakes, scorpions and the like. If you take Fido out and about with you, however, you do need to keep him from sampling the local flora unsupervised, as both ivy and azaleas/rhododendrons are thoroughly ubiquitous throughout both the natural landscape and local gardens and are known to cause potentially severe distress to dogs who ingest them. Furthermore the proximity of wild animals (bears, mountain lions, possums, raccoons, foxes, and many more) to all of the human-inhabited parts of the area produces an indomitable population of common fleas and ticks looking for their next meal. As of 2019, many residents find that the fleas/ticks are quite impervious to the more common over-the-counter treatments such as fipronil (Frontline), imidacloprid (Advantage/Advantix) and permethrin (BioSpot), requiring prescription treatments to gain any leverage over. If your dog is prone to sensitive skin or does not tolerate fleas/ticks well, you may want to reconsider his accompanying you.

Fort Bragg has four veterinary clinics, all of which are relatively "full-service" considering the nearest proper veterinary hospital is over two hours away in Santa Rosa. Three of the four have a memorandum of understanding that arranges for the staff of one to handle all of the emergency calls that come in during the weekend regardless of who regularly sees the pet. The fourth, Covington Creek, has a single veterinarian who takes their own weekend emergency calls and usually arranges for a visiting veterinarian to come to the area and do so in the event they need to travel out of the area.

• 🌍 Covington Creek Veterinary Hospital, 30303 State Highway 20 (3 mi (4.8 km) east of town on Highway 20, 0.5 mi (0.80 km) past Leisure Time RV Park on the right-hand side), ☏ +1 707-964-6109, Info@CovingtonVet.com​. M-F 9AM-5PM. Equipped for dentistry, anesthesia and surgery, on-site radiology (X-rays) and electrocardiography (EKGs) as well as in-house lab analysis. Can board animals on request. (updated Aug 2019)