Galway

Galway expanded from a small fishing village from the 13th century, when the Anglo-Normans captured the area and built a fortified city. A charter of 1396 granted power to 14 merchant families, and this elite would later be mocked by Cromwell as "tribes" - hence the nickname "City of the Tribes". This illustrious 14, now immortalised in the names of the city roundabouts, were Athy, Blake, Bodkin, Browne, D'arcy, Deane, Font, ffrench, Joyce, Kirwan, Lynch, Martin, Morris, and Skerritt. All but two were Anglo-Norman rather than Gaelic. They're often described as an oligarchy, cartel or cabal, but by medieval standards 14 influential families operating an urban centre looks positively diverse. Imagine the Medici welcoming the Borgias and Sforzas to Florence: "Sure the city is big enough for all of us, and let's bring in the Albizzi, the Alberti...." They prospered through trade with Spain and Portugal, and by loyalty to the Crown, but that was the reason for Cromwell besieging and smashing the city. They recovered somewhat during the Restoration, but fell forever with the ousting of the catholic Stuart monarchy. Under the Hanoverian kings, power and fortune throughout Ireland centred on a tight little "Protestant Ascendancy", just to show everyone what a cartel or cabal really looks like. Sea trade also moved away to Dublin and Waterford. Galway stagnated until the 20th century, recovering slowly with independence, and more rapidly later with growth in students and in tourists. It's now a lively, buzzing colourful city that again feels well-connected to the rest of the world.

• Walk: Central Galway is easily accessible on foot, and Salthill is a pleasant 30 minute walk from the centre, down the Prom to Blackrock.

• Taxis: there are ranks in Eyre Square and Bridge Street. Fares are nationally regulated and taxis must use the meter. As of March 2021, fares M-Sa 08:00 to 20:00 are €3.80 flagfall then €1.14-1.50 per km, 20:00 to 08:00 and Sunday €4.20 flagfall then €1.45-1.80 per km. In slow traffic or if asked to wait they charge by the minute, 40-50 cents.

• Try not to bring a car into town, it's congested and has limited, expensive parking. Central parking lots include Dyke Road and at the Cathedral.

• 🌍 Eyre Square is the place to begin exploring the city, as it's the transport hub and with a cluster of hotels and eating places. From 2004 to 2006 it was a dismal crater as an expensive redevelopment project flopped, but now it's an attractive green space, with a pedestrianised shopping mall just south. Artwork includes the "Galway Hooker" (fountain styled like a traditional fishing boat), the Browne doorway (from the house of one of the ruling families), and a bust of former US President John F Kennedy who visited in 1963. The square is officially named after JFK, but this never stuck, and it's always called Eyre Square after the mayor who presented this plot of land to the city in 1710.
• The historic spine of the city leads from Eyre Square southwest to the river, called William Street then Shop Street then High Street then Quay Street. It's all pedestrianised, an agreeable stroll from park to pub to pub to eating place to pub. At the top of Shop Street, 🌍 Lynch's Castle is a fine medieval town house, once home to the Lynch dynasty. But it's now a branch of Allied Irish Banks: you're welcome to look in during opening hours but there's not much to see.
• 🌍 Legend of the Claddagh Ring, 26 Shop Street, ☏ +353 91 123 456, info@claddaghlegend.com. M-Sa 09:00-18:00, Su 11:00-18:00. Called a museum but mostly a marketing exercise. The Claddagh Ring is a style of mani in fede finger ring: two hands join to clasp a heart. It's been a design for wedding or engagement rings since medieval times but became a Galway tradition from 1700, when the jewellers worked near an Cladach, the city shore. It became popular from the late 20th century, and legends were embellished around it as ingeniously as its designs. This museum hews to the "Joyce" legend, after the man captured by Algerian corsairs and learning the design in captivity; he returned to Galway where of course his sweetheart had remained true . . . Aah, bless. The heart is often surmounted by a crown, or isn't, depending on your allegiances in that matter. Free (no, not the rings though). (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Saint Nicholas Collegiate Church, Lombard Street H91 PY20, ☏ +353 87 237 5789. Daily Mar-Dec 09:00-19:00, Jan Feb 09:00-17:00. A collegiate church doesn't have a resident priest, but members of a seminary (here, a College of Vicars) take turns. St Nicholas is the largest medieval church still in everyday use in Ireland. It was founded in 1320 and enlarged over the following two centuries. It's dedicated to St Nicholas of Myra (circa 300 AD), patron saint of seafarers, and the story of Columbus worshipping here is credible. There are large tombs of the Lynch family, and a plaque at the Lynch memorial window claims to be the spot where 15th C mayor James hanged his own son Walter: for killing a Spanish visitor, so goes the tale, but what was that really all about? In 2002 St Nick's conducted the first blessing of a same-sex partnership in an Irish church, but the Bishop prohibited any such unbiblical goings-on in future. However, although the church is Protestant (which it obviously wasn't in Columbus' day), in 2005 it was used by an RC congregation while their own St Augustine church was refurbished, and it's also used for worship by the Romanian, Russian Orthodox and the Mar Thoma Syrian congregations. When in Rome, as they say.... Donation. (updated May 2020)

• 🌍 Hall of the Red Earl (Halla an Iarla Rua), Druid Lane. 24 hours. The Hall is the earliest medieval structure to be seen within the walls of the city. It was built by the de Burgo family in the 13th century and was the main municipal building, acting as town hall, court house and tax collection office. But a fragment is all that remains, protected behind glass, and it won't take a minute to see. The modern building adjoining is the base of Galway Civic Trust, and their guided walks through the city (see "Do") start here. Free. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Spanish Arch: medieval Galway had city walls, which in 1584 were extended to protect the quays at the river outlet. This extension, known as "the head of the walls" (ceann an bhalla), is nowadays almost the only remnant of those walls. In the 18th century the quays were extended, and two arches were cut in the walls to improve street access to the quays. They were probably originally known as the "Eyre Arches", but Galway was Ireland's main port for trade with Spain and Portugal. In 1755 the Lisbon Tsunami wrecked the arches, but one was later re-opened, so they became known as the Spanish Arch and the Blind Arch. It's a pleasant area to sit or stroll.
• 🌍 Galway City Museum, Spanish Parade H91 CX5P (at Spanish Arch), ☏ +353 91 532 460. Tu-Sa 10:00-17:00, and Apr-Sep: Su 12:00-17:00. Three floors of galleries have seven long-term exhibitions on Galway's archaeology, history and links to the sea. Two halls have rotating exhibitions. Free. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Nora Barnacle's house is at 8 Bowling Green. Nora (1884-1951) grew up in Galway and came to live here with her mother who'd separated from the drunkard father. Her boyfriends had a habit of dying, so she left for Dublin where in 1904 she met James Joyce, and "knew him at once for just another Dublin jackeen chatting up a country girl". Soon she would have cause to bemoan his drinking, hanging about with artistic ne'er-do-wells, spendthrift ways, obscure nonsensical writing style, and his demands for English puddings. They lived mostly in Trieste and Paris then Zurich, where James died and Nora lived out her own final years. The house in Galway is a small museum of Joyce memorabilia (including letters, but not the hotties) but is closed in 2020.
• 🌍 Galway Cathedral (Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven and Saint Nicholas), Gaol Road H91 A780. Daily 08:30-18:30. Roman Catholic cathedral built 1958-1965 on the site of an old prison; it's an imposing limestone building in a mixture of retro-classical styles, which some detest. The dome, pillars and round arches are Renaissance, while a Romanesque portico dominates the main façade. Michael Browne (Bishop 1937-1976) published an account of the preparation, design, building work and layout. The organ was re-conditioned in 2007, and recitals show off the acoustics. Regular mass, with one Sunday mass in Gaelic. Donation. (updated May 2020)

• River Corrib flows for 6 km south from Lough Corrib to enter Galway Bay. In 1178 the friars of Clairegalway cut a new channel out of the lough, east of the original outflow, and this became the main course of the river. It passes the ruin of Menlo Castle to reach the northwest edge of the city at a salmon weir: watch them swim upriver in early summer. The last km of river is very fast, great for driving waterwheels but not navigable, so the 🌍 Eglinton Canal was cut in the 19th century, with swing bridges, locks, and side-races for mills. The swing bridges have been replaced by fixed bridges so the canal is no longer navigable except by kayak.
• 🌍 University Quad. Daily 08:00-21:00. This was the original quadrangle of the college that opened in 1849 and became one of the three colleges of Queens University of Ireland (the others being Belfast and Cork). Since 1997 it's been known as the National University of Ireland Galway. The Quad buildings are in mock Tudor Gothic style modelled on Oxford's Christ Church, so their aspirations are clear. They're nowadays the admin offices of a huge modern campus stretching from the river and canal to Newcastle Road, then continuing west of that as University Hospital. Free. (updated May 2020)
• The medieval fort and walled city of Galway stood east of the river, controlled by the Anglo-Normans, with "No damned Irish here!" signs at its gates. The Irish were kept in their place in a village just west of the river outlet, An Cladach, the shore. Jewellers also worked there, hence the name of the ring. Nothing remains of that village so the present Claddagh neighbourhood is modern.
• 🌍 The Promenade is the main shoreline attraction, stretching for 2 km into Salthill. Traditionally you turned around once you'd kicked the wall at the two-level diving platform at the junction of Threadneedle Rd. Lots of pubs and B&Bs along here. It's long been hoped to extend the promenade west to Silverstrand, and to reinforce the crumbling coast against sea erosion. By 2015 this plan had reached design stage, but with no prospect of the funding that would enable it to go to tender, and it's all gone very quiet since then. So you can pick your own way along the headland west of Salthill but there's no paved prom.
• 🌍 Galway Atlantaquaria, Seapoint Promenade, Salthill H91 T2FD, ☏ +353 91 585 100, info@nationalaquarium.ie. M-F 10:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00-18:00. Large aquarium that majors on local marine life, so you will see sharks, but they're Irish sharks and proud of it. Staff display the various beasties: care to cuddle a huge crab? Adult €13, child €8.50. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Mutton Island is connected to the mainland at Claddagh by a one-km causeway. (Don't confuse it with Mutton Island off Quilty in County Clare.) It's popular for wedding photos taking in the lighthouse foreground and cityscape background, while artfully avoiding the sewage plant.

• Castles: the city's original castle was a Norman motte-and-bailey, but it was smashed, burnt, raided for masonry and disappeared in the 13th century. It was only rediscovered in 2018 beneath Quay Street: it's hoped to put parts on display as was done for the Hall of the Red Earl. Remnants of smaller castles dot the area although it's mostly a case of "hunt the stump". They include:
  • 🌍 Merlin or Doughiskey is a turret in wooded parkland 3 km east of city centre.
  • 🌍 Menlo is the ivy-shrouded stump you see from the river. By road it's a bit of a scramble over a padlocked gate and down an unsigned track.
  • 🌍 Castlegar means "short castle", which may refer to its structure or because it was used as a short-stay annexe by Menlo Castle. The name's even more accurate nowadays.
  • 🌍 Ballindooley is a turret along Headford Road N84 near Castlegar. Slow down for a look but it's hardly worth stopping.
  • 🌍 Killeen is a 15th century towerhouse that has been restored and is now a private residence.
  • 🌍 Cloonacauneen is a restored 15th-century towerhouse that's now a restaurant, often booked for weddings.
  • Ballybrit is a turret just south of the racecourse, so if you've brought your racing binoculars you can save trudging across the field.
  • Dunguaire: see Ballyvaughan for this plush place in Kinvarra south of the bay just before the boundary with County Clare.

• What's on? Listen to Galway Bay Radio on 95.8 FM, or read This is Galway, or the Galway Advertiser online or in print (free) on Thursdays.
• Walk: Stroll along the banks of the River Corrib and the Eglington Canal, or along the promenade to the diving platform at Salthill, or out along the causeway to Mutton Island.

Guided walks: Galway Civic Trust have 90 min walks May-Sep: Tu and Th at 14:00, starting from Hall of the Red Earl and finishing at Eyre Square. Donations welcome, no booking.

Galway Tours run private walking tours of 90 min, minimum group of six from €80. They don't offer the kind of tours where individuals can just rock up.

• 🌍 Town Hall Theatre, 1 Courthouse Square H91 VF21, ☏ +353 91 569 777 (Box Office). The THT features plays, music, dance, comedy and of course panto. They run three venues: the main auditorium is only 400 seats, so it's cosy and suits many performances but is a bit small for grand occasions. Studio Space also in the square is 52 seats. Black Box, 500 m north on Dykes Road, has 600 seats and is more suitable for a rock concert. (updated May 2020)
• Druid Theatre is a small independent theatre at Flood St towards the Quays.
• Taibhdhearc na Gaillimhe, 19 An tSráid Láir (Middle St), Gaillimh H91 RX76, ☏ +353 91 562 024. Box Office Tu-F 10:00-17:00, Sa 12:00-17:00. This is an Irish language theatre, which has produced some of Ireland's most celebrated actors. (updated May 2020)

• 🌍 River cruises, Waterside, Galway, ☏ +353 91 563 846. May-Sep: daily 12:30 and 14:30, and Jul Aug: Su-F 16:30. Corrib Princess is a 157-seat river boat that sails from Woodhead Quay, east bank of the river just above the weir, for 90 min cruises up the Corrib into the lough. Adult €17. (updated May 2020)
• Kayaking is a choice of gentle paddles on the upper river and lough, sea kayaking, and white water on the lower Corrib right in the heart of the city. The white water flow depends on recent rainfall and the status of the locks above. There's a standing wave at O'Brien's Bridge to test your sense of humour, and the Eglinton Canal rejoins the river at the Jury Drop: it faces Jurys Inn Hotel, where onlookers can express their verdict on your skill.
• 🌍 Galway Races, Ballybrit Racecourse H91 V654 (6 km northeast of city), ☏ +353 91 753870, information@galwayraces.com. This hosts four events a year: Summer Festival is a week in late July / early Aug, then they have two days early Sept, a day early Oct and three days late Oct. These are jumps races, which include "chases", similar rules but without jumps. (updated May 2020)
• Rugby Union: Connacht Rugby are one of the four Irish professional teams playing in the United Rugby Championship (formerly Pro14), the European and predominantly Celtic tournament. Their home stadium is The Sportsground, capacity 8000, a mile northeast of the centre.
• Gaelic games: the County GAA team plays Gaelic football and hurling at Pearse Stadium (capacity 26,200), in Salthill 2 km southwest of city centre.
• Football: Galway United were promoted in 2023 and now play soccer in the Premier Division, the Republic's second tier. Their stadium is Eamonn Deacy Park (capacity 5000) 1 km north of city centre. The playing season is March-Nov with games usually on Friday evening.
• Galway International Arts Festival features music, theatre and exhibitions for two weeks in late July. The next is July 15–28 2024.

• The National University of Ireland, Galway.
• Galway-Mayo Institute of Technology, Galway.

• Eyre Square Centre is the big mall next to the railway and bus stations. The shopping area runs south from the square to the river, as Williams St, Shop St, High St, Mainguard St and Quay St. The old buildings and busy atmosphere make it an attractive area to stroll.
• Middle Street, parallel to Shop Street, is good for creative independent outlets, including the Irish-speaking theatre "An Taibhdhearc," the Cocoon designer studio, Charlie Byrne's Bookshop and Kenny's gallery / bookshop.
• Galway Market is in Church Lane next to St Nicholas Church. It's open Sa 08:00-18:00, Su 14:00-18:00.
• Sheridan's Cheesemongers on Kirwans Lane is a great place to get wine, pates, bread, and of course cheese.

• See "Buy" above for Eyre Square supermarket and Galway Market.

• 🌍 Kirby's, 3-5 Cross St Lower H91 FX30, ☏ +353 91 569 404. Daily 12:00-22:30. Great food and service for a good price. (updated May 2020)
• McCambridges, 38-39 Shop St H91 T2N7 (off Eyre Square), ☏ +353 91 562 259. M-Sa 08:00-19:00, Su 10:00-18:00. Deli food hall downstairs does take away sandwiches, upstairs restaurant serves good sit-down meals. (updated May 2020)
• Fat Freddy's, The Halls, 15 Quay St, ☏ +353 91 567 279, info@fatfreddys.net. Daily 12:00-22:00. Longest established cheap-and-cheerful place: pizza, burgers, and the like. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 McDonagh's, 22 Quay St H91 N902, ☏ +353 91 565 001. M-Sa 12:00-23:00, Su 14:00-21:00. Famous fish and chip shop, takeaway or eat either at the communal cafe tables or in the restaurant. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 McSwiggans, 3 Eyre St, ☏ +353 91 568 917, reservations@mcswiggans.ie. Daily 12:00-22:30. Big restaurant on the two floors above the bar but rightly popular and gets crowded. Traditional fare. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Ard Bia at Nimmo's, Spanish Arch, Long Walk H91 E9XA, ☏ +353 91 561 114, reservations@ardbia.com. Cafe Tu-Su 10:00-15:30; restaurant Tu-Sa 18:00-22:00. Delicious food and atmosphere, gets rave reviews. Restaurant is a splurge and you'd better book, cafe brunch is less pricey. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Oscar's Seafood Bistro, 36 Dominick Street Lower H91 V253, ☏ +353 91 582 180. M-Sa 17:30-21:30. Gets rave reviews for its seafood, vegans also catered for. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 O'Reilly's (formerly Lohans), 232 Upper Salthill Road H91 PTD9, ☏ +353 91 522 610, oreillysbarandkitchen@gmail.com. Daily 09:30-21:00. Mostly traditional Irish fare with a leavening of Med dishes. (updated May 2020)
• Grain & Grill is within Maldron Hotel, see Sleep. Serves food daily 08:00-21:00.
• Others worth trying are Finnegans on Market St, Kirwan's Lane Seafood, and Goya's bakery next door for cakes.

See also Galway City Pub Guide for current reviews, photos and videos.

• Galway Hooker is the local beer, brewed since 2014 at Oranmore at the head of Galway Bay. It's a chemical-free pale ale: "We couldn't afford chemicals." They don't do brewery tours but the product is widely available.
• An Pucan, 11 Forster St H91 P65D (by railway and bus stations), ☏ +353 91 376 561. Lively bar with music and dancing, it's the food that reviewers seem most to enjoy. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Taaffes Pub, 19 Shop St. Daily 10:30-00:30. Great authentic Irish experience. You can find trad music there almost any night and there's a friendly atmosphere. Food only to 17:00. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 King's Head, 15 High Street H91 AY6P, ☏ +353 91 567 866. Daily 11:00-22:00. Bar with restaurant on three floors, often has live music. (updated May 2020)
• Freeneys, 19 High St H91 TD79 (next to King's Head). Daily 10:30-23:30. Fine traditional pub, often much quieter than its neighbours midweek, indeed at first glance from the street it doesn't look like a pub. They pour a good Guinness but where Freeney's excels is in its collection of Irish whiskeys. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Tigh Neachtain, 17 Cross St (The bright cornflower-blue one, corner with Quay St), ☏ +353 91 568 820. Su-Th 10:30-23:30, F Sa 10:30-00:30. A local favourite: good grub, whiskey and atmosphere. (updated May 2020)
• Busker Brownes, 5 Cross St Upper H91 FX30 (part of Kirby's Restaurant), ☏ +353 91 563 377. M-Sa 10:00-02:00, Su 12:00-02:00. Four bars: the original Busker's and Slatehouse, while the large Hall and small Mezzanine bars are often booked for events. Also, Kirby's upstairs turns into a late bar after dinner. Live bands nightly from 22:30. Decent bar food. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 The Quays, 11 Quay Street, ☏ +353 91 568 347. M-Th 09:00-00:30, F-Su 09:00-03:00. Lively pub, the interior is done up like a church. Also calls itself a "gastropub" (which frankly it's not, you won't starve but few visitors rate the food) and a "music hall" which is on the mark, there's always live folk and other styles of music. (updated May 2020)
• Monroe's, 14 Dominick Street Upper H91 WD2H (white frontage is very prominent from Spanish Arch), ☏ +353 91 583 397. M-Th 10:00-23:30, F Sa 10:00-02:30, Su 12:00-23:30. Has traditional music every night and set dancing on Tuesdays. (updated May 2020)
• Roisin Dubh, 9 Dominick Street Upper H91 X266 (opposite Oscar's Restaurant), ☏ +353 91 586 540. Su-Th 15:00-00:00, F Sa 15:00-01:00. Pub with two stages, mostly alternative and rock gigs and comedy. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 The Crane Bar, 2 Sea Rd H91 YP97, ☏ +353 91 587 419. M-Th 10:30-23:30, F 10:30-01:00, Sa 12:30-01:00, Su 12:30-23:30. Great pub, music nightly: trad downstairs or various styles upstairs, where you need to grab your seat not much after 21:00. Bar is cash only. (updated May 2020)
• 🌍 Cookes Thatch Bar, 2 Newcastle Rd (near University Hospital), ☏ +353 91 521 749. Daily 12:30-23:00. The last thatched pub in Galway city, dating back to the 1600s. (Within the county are Powers at Oughterad, and Morans at Kilcolgan). Has trad music on Wednesday and Sunday nights. (updated May 2020)
• Others worth a look: Blue Note on West William St, Tigh Chóilí on Mainguard St, and Front Door on Cross St.

As Galway is a popular destination, there's a large selection of accommodation in all price brackets.

Galway is a safe town by any standards, but give the swerve to damnfool drunks.

As of April 2021, Galway has 5G with all Irish carriers.

• South across Galway Bay is County Clare, and the spare limestone terrain of The Burren, which meets the Atlantic at the Cliffs of Moher.
• If you wish to hear Irish being spoken as a first language, visit towns like Carna, An Spidéal, Carraroe, Barna, all west of Galway City in the Connemara area. English is also spoken in these towns if you are not confident enough to speak Irish just yet, but as a visitor you can appreciate hearing the Irish language being spoken in one of the few areas where it is a thriving first spoken language and has priority over English.
• The Aran Islands are reached by ferry from Connemara.