Golan Heights

Two-thirds of the Golan Heights has been under Israeli control since 1967, when Israel seized the area during the Six-Day War. The remainder is under Syrian control. Following the 1973 Yom Kippur War, Israel returned another 5% of the land to Syria. Israel began building settlements in the area, and granted the Syrian Druze inhabitants permanent residency status. In 1981, Israel annexed the Golan Heights. This annexation was formally endorsed by the United States in 2019, but most of the international community, including the United Nations, officially considers it to be part of Syria.

Unlike the West Bank, the part of the Golan Heights controlled by Israel is considered part of the country by most Israelis and by the Israeli government. Security is on par with Israel proper, and you won't find roadblocks.

In Israel, it is generally understood that the Golan Heights will not be returned to Syria. The Israeli viewpoint is that this would not be feasible due to economic and political reasons, and for reasons of security which they believe have only strengthened since the Syrian civil war started. There are no negotiations between Israel and Syria and this is not likely to change any time soon.

The de facto Israel-Syria border runs through the Golan Heights along an area known as the Purple Line. This line is patrolled by a United Nations peacekeeping force. No one is allowed to cross the border without special permission, and the border crossing is under the control of Israel and Syria.

The Golan Heights mostly consists of a flat plateau made out of volcanic basalt. Near the Israel-Syria line of control (on the Israeli side) is a chain of extinct volcanoes which protrude above the plateau. A number of streams cut through the plateau, forming deep valleys and occasional waterfalls, and eventually end up in the Jordan River or the Sea of Galilee. With the countless Eucalyptus trees growing here and due to the wide plains, it reminds one of New South Wales, Australia.

Due to the flatness of the plateau (unlike Israel's mostly hilly or coastal landscapes), the dark basalt and fertile volcanic soil, and the year-round streams, the Golan Heights looks and feels different from the rest of Israel, so it is a popular destination for Israeli tourists.

The Hermon mountain differs from the rest of the Golan, as well as from any other place in Israel. The highest point in the Israeli-controlled part of the Hermon is 2,236 m above sea level, nearly twice as high as the next-highest place in Israel (Mount Meron in the Upper Galilee). As a result, the Hermon gets far more snowfall than anywhere else in Israel, and it is the site of Israel's only ski resort (in the winter months).

The most popular season to visit the Golan is the spring. For a brief period in spring, the entire Golan landscape is covered by a bed of flowers. Also, at this time the streams and waterfalls are at their most powerful due to the winter rains. Autumn and winter are also good seasons to visit the Golan. Summer is the worst time to visit - Israel gets no rain in summer, so the mostly tree-free Golan landscape turns entirely brown, and the weather is hot and humid. Summer can be a good time for a hike that includes walking in the water (there are several popular ones), or to see historic sites. But hiking anywhere else is best left for another season.

Hebrew is spoken among the Jewish inhabitants in the towns and kibbutzim. Arabic is also spoken in the region mainly by the Arabs and Druze living there, although many of them can also speak Hebrew or/and English.

There are a few daily buses from Tiberias, Hatzor and Kiryat Shmona to the Golan Heights, operated by Golanbus. Services are infrequent due to the low population. There are also a handful of direct buses to Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Haifa.

Private transportation: from north-south route 90, there are four road "ascents" to the Golan Heights.

Hitchhiking is accepted here as it is throughout Israel, but you can still wait a long time to get to many destinations. Hitchhiking is easiest in the southern Golan Heights, as more people live there. In the center and north, the traffic is mostly tourists, who are less likely to pick up hitchhikers.

• 🌍 Rosh Pina Airport (RPN ^IATA). Since 2019, there are no commercial flights to this airport. You might be able to arrive via general aviation. 

The Golan Heights is the wettest area in the region. There are many waterfalls including the Gamla, Sa`ar and the Banias waterfalls. It is especially recommended to visit the Golan Heights in spring, when the ground is covered with wildflowers. The waterfalls are strongest then too.

• 🌍 Gamla Nature Reserve (Hebrew:גמלא) (turn off the Sea of Galilee Road at Gamla Junction and then take Route 869 to Daliyot Junction, turning north after about 2 km; a signposted dirt road leads to the reserve), ☏ +972 4-6822282, st.gamla@npa.org.il. winter 08:00-16:00, summer 08:00-17:00, closing one hour earlier on Fridays and eve of holidays. A picturesque nature reserve and archaeological site of a Jewish stronghold from 87 BCE. Gamla means a "camel" in Hebrew, the name of the hill top location clearly taking its name from a resemblance to a camel's hump.
  
  Gamla was the capital of the Golan Heights in the 1st century. In 66 CE, along with other Jewish cities in the region, it launched a rebellion against Roman rule. After a siege the city was conquered, and its inhabitants were either killed or threw themselves from the cliff at the edge of the city. Nowadays the city has been partly excavated, and fortifications as well as a synagogue can be seen.
  
  There are several trails at the site, some of which will be challenging for people who are out of shape or hike rarely. The Gamla waterfall trail is accessible until 14:00/15:00 (winter/summer). The Gamla ancient town trail is accessible until 13:00/14:00 (winter/summer). Also, the steep and tall cliffs at Gamla form the perfect habitat for griffin vultures. ₪28/24/14 adult/student/child. 
• 🌍 Wadi Daliyot Reserve. This picturesque valley and trail leads into the Gamla Nature Reserve and requires the payment of the same fee. However, walking from the highway to the Gamla site, there are no fee collection points and you are supposed to pay at Gamla, which you can circumvent by just walking back before reaching Gamla. This can be a good alternative to Gamla, in case you want to save the steep entrance fee. Part of Gamla fee. 
• 🌍 Sa'ar Fall & Viewpoint (right by the road). 
• 🌍 Golan Volcanic Park. 10:00-16:00. There is no volcanic activity, but a nice park explaining different volcanic facts. The site includes art in the volcanic gravel. 

• 🌍 Nimrod Fortress National Park (Nimrod Castle, Kalaat Namrud), ☏ +972 4-6949277. winter 08:00-16:00, summer 08:00-17:00, closing one hour earlier on Fridays and eve of holidays. An ancient fortress in the northern Golan Heights, built in the 13th century by Muslim rulers to defend against a possible Crusader attack. It is located on a steep mountain ridge, with deep forested ravines on either side, and has a stupendous view of its surroundings. A trail leads from the fortress's west edge downhill several kilometres to Banias, another important historical and nature site in the area. Hike: ~2 hr. ₪22/9 adult/child, ₪41/20 adult/child combined with Banias. 
• 🌍 Mount Bental. A mountain in the eastern Golan Heights with an Israeli stronghold (formerly a Syrian stronghold) on top and views of Syria to the east and the Golan Heights to the west. On some days, you might hear or even see a bomb going off in the distance, part of the Syrian Civil War. From this distance, it sounds like thunder. You can explore the Syrian army bunkers here from before 1967. 
• 🌍 (Golani Observation Point) Tel Faher (Tel Pakhar). A Syrian military post between 1948-1967. In that period the Syrian army would shell Israeli agricultural settlements in the valley below as part of border disputes. The post was conquered by Israel in a bloody battle in 1967. It is now the site of a memorial, and you can explore the Syrian bunkers, which have a great view down to the fields of the kibbutzim. 
• 🌍 Observation to Quneitra. Quneitra is a ghost town, which was abandoned by the Syrians during the 1967 war and left in the no-man's-land ever since. Thoroughly wrecked not only in 1967 but in the subsequent 1973 conflict as well, from the Israeli side, the area can only be viewed from designated viewpoints set up along the border road, as it's just across the de facto line of control. 
• 🌍 Rujm el-Hiri (Gilgal Refaim) (A 4 km walk east on the Golan Trail from Daliyot junction (the road junction closest to Gamla)). A large megalithic monument dating to around 3000 BCE. It consists of concentric stone circles, and is sometimes called the "Stonehenge of the Levant", without the big upstanding rocks but with a small cave inside. It is hypothesized to be an astronomical and/or ritual site. It looks very impressive from the air, but is difficult to appreciate from ground level. 
  • Nearby, an 🌍 abandoned bunker can be found and explored. Bring a flashlight and don't go on your own.
• 🌍 Kursi. An archaeological site on the eastern side of the Sea of Galilee and north of Ein Gev. 
• 🌍 Deir Aziz synagogue. A Byzantine-era synagogue, partly reconstructed, with impressive pillars. 
• 🌍 Umm el Kanatir. A Byzantine-era Jewish town including a synagogue. The synagogue is being excavated and reconstructed (until May 2018) and closed to general visitors, although some tour guides can get you in and let you take part in the excavations. 

Hiking is the activity of choice in the Golan Heights. Many sights are only reachable on foot, and it is a great way to see and explore the area. Having said that, most tracks are short in distance.

• Golan Trail. A hiking trail, for anything between a day and a week. 
• 🌍 Ein Tina (עין תינה). A short, enjoyable hike through a running stream to the spring which feeds it. Great for hot summer days. 
• 🌍 Yehudiya Forest Nature Reserve, Yehudiya-Hushniya Road (87) (7 km east of the Yehudiya junction, approximately 5.5 km south of Katsrin), ☏ +972 4 6962817, st-yehudya@npa.org.il. winter 08:00-16:00, summer 07:00-17:00, closing one hour earlier on Fridays and eve of holidays. Amazing hikes through natural pools. A must do for anyone with a strong sense of adventure and some basic athletic ability. Different hikes with different difficulty levels. ₪22/11/9 adult/senior/child (incl. Meshushim Nature Reserve), ₪16 camping (advance reservation). 
• 🌍 Nachal Zavitan. A very popular water hike including a number of waterfalls. 
• 🌍 Hexagon / Meshushim Pools (Meshushim Stream Nature Reserve) (Hike 3.6 km from highway 888 or about 7 km from highway 87), ☏ +972 4-6820238. winter 08:00-16:00, summer 08:00-17:00, closing one hour earlier on Fridays and eve of holidays. A set of famous pools in the Meshushim river with natural hexagonal volcanic tiling. Within the Yehuda Brechat HaMeshushim Site Nature Reserve. price see Yehudiya Forest Nature Reserve (one ticket). 
• 🌍 The Majrase (Daliyot estuary) (Betiha (Bet Tsayda Valley) Nature Reserve), ☏ +972 4-6793410. winter 08:00-16:00, summer 08:00-17:00, closing one hour earlier on Fridays and eve of holidays. A very nice water hike in the wetlands along the north Sea of Galilee shore. You walk for about 1.5 km in the river, including some swimming (you must know how to swim). Bring shoes to wear in the water. There is also a dry path if you don't want to get wet. This is near the New Testament site of Bethsaida. ₪28/24/14 adult/student/child. 
• 🌍 Nachal El Al. A 5-km hike between the communities of Eli Ad and Avnei Eitan. You descend into a beautiful canyon with flowing water, and pass by the "White Waterfall" and "Black Waterfall" - so called because the different layers of rock have different colors. 

• 🌍 Mount Hermon Ski Region, ☏ +1 599-550-560. 08:00-15:00. Mount Hermon is Israel's highest mountain (2,284 m), home to the country's sole ski resort. There is snow for only part of the year (between mid-January and March), so check ahead. At other times, you can still visit and enjoy the views, the wildflowers, and so on at a much cheaper price. There is a cable car going up the mountain. Access is by private car - there is no public transportation within about 10 km of the ski site. The ski company offers bus trips from Tel Aviv to the ski site (call for details). Ski prices are about ₪200 for equipment rental and ₪200 for ski-pass. Paid shuttle and cable car (ski pass ~₪250 a day, ski equipment ~₪280 a day). 

• 🌍 Aniam artists' village. A quaint artists' village where you can see many of the artists working in addition to perusing and buying their works. In the valley south of Aniam is a picturesque river and water pool. Further up the valley (just before the main road, route 808) is the Ayit waterfall, which is impressive in winter but totally dry in summer. All these sites are in walking distance from each other. 
• Robotic dairy farm (Avnei Eitan), ☏ +972 50 4060311. This farm has a visitors' center for people interested in experiencing robotic cow milking. There is an explanatory video, then you see the cows, and kids get the chance to feed calves milk from a giant bottle. You get to make butter, and drink a cup of hot chocolate from the just-produced milk. 
• 🌍 Kol Shofar (Givat Yoav). A shofar factory with a visitors' center where you can learn about and observe the shofar manufacture practice. 
• Slingshot Israel. An interactive adventure taking place in an old military bunker on the Syrian border, sponsored by the IDF. Best done at night. A variety of unique IDF-oriented programs are offered. 

• 🌍 Golan Heights Hostel, Moshav Odem, ☏ +972 54-260-0334, info@golanheightshostel.com. Highly rated. Member of ILH. ₪100/270 dorm/double. 
• 🌍 Freedom Guesthouse, Ha-Perakh be-Gani 234, Had Nes, ☏ +972 50-3059679, freedomguesthouseil@gmail.com. Rated 4.8 out of 5. Member of ILH. Dorm bed from ₪95, double from ₪270. 
• 🌍 Genghis Khan, Giv'at Yo'av (having a good map, you can hike up from the road along the lake), ☏ +972 52-371-5687. Staying in an outdoor yurt. Grumpy owner and sheets are extra. But seems to be a good (family) experience. Member of ILH. Dorm bed ₪100 plus sheets. 

Several tsimmers (bed & breakfast) are available on Zimmer.co.il.

• 🌍 Keshet Debbie (Debbie's Rainbow Tzimmer), Keshet, ☏ +972 52-282-6205, debbyattoun@bezeqint.net. 
• 🌍 Keshet Yonatan hosting and camping (אירוח וקמפינג קשת יהונתן), Keshet, ☏ +972 4-685-1100. Rated 2.6 out of 5. 
• HaNof HaTzfoni (הנוף הצפוני), Ortal, ☏ +972 52 9120148. (updated Nov 2018)
• 🌍 Narkis Boutique Hotel (Just outside the city centre of Majdal Shams), ☏ +972 4-698-2961. A popular and modern hotel. (updated Oct 2017)
• 🌍 Rimonim Hermon Holiday Village, Moshav Neve Ativ, North Golan, ☏ +972-4-6985888. Offers accommodations in wooden cottages in a natural surrounding with nature corners, trees, lawns and breathtaking scenery. ₪550. 

• 🌍 Merom Golan, Kibbutz Merom Golan, ☏ +972-4-6960267. Kibbutz Merom Golan sits in the north of the Golan Heights, at the foothill of the extinct Ben Tal Volcano some 1000 meters above sea level. ₪400+. 
• 🌍 Golan Rooms, Moshav Ramot, ☏ +972-4-6731814. Offers 10 guest cottages surrounded by a large garden on a hillside overlooking the Sea of Galilee. ₪530+.