Mount Rinjani

This is a very active volcano. The oldest recorded historical eruption was in 1847. Previous to that this was a very remote region indeed, hence the lack of records. However, approximately in 1257 the volcano erupted so violently that its shape changed to what it looks like today and the event is believed to have contributed to the onset of the Little Ice Age. There was a spate of activity from 1994 to 1995 which resulted in the further growth of the crater cone Gunung Baru, since renamed Gunung Barujari (New-finger Mountain). Gunung Barujari was active again 2009, 2010 and 2015. In 2015 the Ngurah Rai airport in Bali had to be closed, disrupting international flights.

The lower and mid levels of the mountain are quite heavily forested. Above the tree line though the slopes are barren and rugged scree slopes and volcanic rock. The views of the crater lake are quite breath-taking from the caldera rim, as is the sunrise. From the absolute peak you can see Bali to the west and Sumbawa to the east.

The lower and middle elevation slopes are densely forested with typical tropical species. Fig trees are especially apparent. Casuarina forest (cemara) takes over higher up and eventually these give way to an alpine flora above the treeline.

Lombok is east of the Wallacean Line and some Australian bird species are therefore apparent. These include a lot of sulphur crested cockatoos and green hanging parrots. Bird life is generally not easy to observe here though due to the density of the forest.

The familiar long-tailed grey macaque (the Bali temple monkey) is common right up to the crater rim. Also the rare ebony leaf monkey inhabit these forests. Rusa deer and muntjacs are more often heard than seen.

Rinjani is best climbed during the April–November dry season. It is possible to climb during the rainy season as well but treks are often cancelled at short notice if the rain is heavy.

It gets very cold on the mountain above 2,000 m and nears freezing at the summit. Warm clothing is an absolute must.

At 3,726 m, Rinjani is the second highest volcano in Indonesia after Sumatra's Gunung Kerinci. It is very climbable by visitors with a high level of physical fitness. Critical is to understand and respect this great mountain: sadly, visitors have died here through failing to follow sensible procedures and make all necessary preparations.

Few actually make the very strenuous effort required to reach the actual summit but instead stop at the crater rim (approx 2,700 m) where the views of the crater lake are mind blowing. To make the extra 1,000 m ascent to the very top requires a considerably higher level of fitness, not to mention strength of spirit and sense of adventure.

Typically, a trek to the crater rim involves two days and one night on the mountain. The longer ascent to the summit can be done with just one night's camping but is often part of a longer trek of three to four days and two or three nights.

An organised trek is by far the easiest, safest and most popular option but it is also quite possible to make all of your own arrangements and just hire a guide and equipment from one of the trekking centres on the mountain. Rinjani Park regulations stipulate the use of a certified guide so the people at the center at the start of the hike are not happy to let you climb Rinjani without. With a lot of patience and explanations you can sign a paper which says that you are responsible for yourself and not the organisation. You will still pay the entrance fee, but it is by far the cheapest option to walk by yourself.

The mountains Licensed Guide Association (HPI) issues certification to the Rinjani guides and porters but it should be understood that the certification standards and required training are no where near as rigorous as would be expected in many other countries. Serious accidents including fatalities do occur on Rinjani treks when led by these accredited guides.

Proper sturdy climbing/hiking boots are an absolute necessity as is a substantial waterproof, windproof jacket, and a head lamp. If you are going to the top, use of poles (walking sticks) for getting through the scree (loose rock) at the top are also highly recommended. By 2,000 m, you will feel like you are not in the tropics any more as rising wet, hot air loses its temperature and may fall as rain. If inappropriate clothing becomes wet, difficulties will set in as air temperatures towards the summit are as low as 4°C, often with a significant extra wind chill factor. You must prepare accordingly.

At times it seems that everyone in Lombok is a trekking guide for Mount Rinjani, especially on the main tourist strip in Senggigi.

Take most of what you are told with a pinch of salt and you will find the most experienced and reputable guides at the main trekking centres at Senaru and Sembalun Lawang. It does happen that tourists who are highly experienced hikers or climbers may find themselves far better prepared and skilled for mountain conditions than the local guides. Codes of conduct have been developed for the local trekking support community that include climbing safety, environmental awareness and responsible use. Some of the guides and trekking organisations are better than others at respecting these agreements and guidelines. It is also a good idea to independently check for any volcanic alerts that may have been issued for Mount Rinjani.

Many visitors have found it is preferable to avoid package deals purchased away from Senaru, and instead negotiate either with one of the four trekking providers listed below or with the guides themselves to ensure that they are actually competent. If there is a problem, you can then find a different guide company in Senaru or Sembalun.

To help you judge the experience, abilities and equipment provision of a potential guide and support team it may assist to consider the following:

• preparation for rain squalls such as waterproof covers for equipment and supplies, personal raincoats or emergency ponchos
• ensure that all trek participants are provided with clothing suitable to the conditions and provided with a thermally protective layer such as polypropylene
• first aid equipment and training including treatment for exposure, provision of supplies such as emergency splints for fractures and space blankets
• provision of a trowel or fold-away shovel for burying human waste and the provision of toilet paper
• if the guide team are cooking or handling food are they going to wash and clean their hands, all plates and utensils using detergent/soap
• ensure that the guides and porters understand how to pitch their supplied tents and can demonstrate that the tents are complete and can be pitched using adequate pegs and with the fly sheets secured away from the tent so that moisture does not seep in even if it is windy and raining.
• provision of a route map detailing emergency assembly points and demonstrate a capacity to communicate a position to a rescue party
• that an emergency management plan is in place in case of accident or other emergency during the climb
• availability of a working mobile phone for emergency calls and provision of SIM cards that have sufficient credit to deal with communications in an emergency
• availability of a serviceable VHF hand held radio with two fully charged batteries and a capacity to use it in case of emergency.
• availability of a satellite phone in serviceable condition, in service, with active network reception and supplied with a fully charged battery

Guide fees are generally negotiable. Only the Rp 150,000 park entrance fee is set by the park authority. A sensible package price range would be:

• 2 days, 1 night trek to the crater rim only: Rp 1,500,000-2,000,000 per person.
• 4 days, 3 night trek: Rp 2,500,000-3,000,000.

These trekking fees will vary though according to how busy the guides are, how many people are in your party and if a commission is due to a referring person or agency. Some guide companies will charge as little as Rp 900,000 per person for a 2-night trek in the off-season, but it is important to check they are properly experienced, equipped and provisioned. Ensure your trek price is all-inclusive of any extra charges for transportation, provisions, porter fees and the park entrance fees.

The following all offer organised treks with accommodation, transport to the mountain, return to your accommodation and can also help with hiring a private guide if required:

• Ahmed Expeditions, Jl Pariwiasta Senaru, Bayan, ☏ +62 817 5720076, trekrinjanilombok@gmail.com. Main office is located on Senaru village at Segara Anak Cottage & Restaurant. Provides trekking packages to Mount Rinjani from budget to luxury. 

• 🌍 Bjorak Rinjani Trek Organizer, etebatu, Sikur, East Lombok Regency, West Nusa Tenggara 83663, ☏ +62 85339462143, bdjorak@gmail.com. Smart Ways to Get Affordable Mt Rinjani Trekking Tour Packages Service Price, Friendly For Private Moment Seeker and Backpackers Who Want to Go Rinjani With A Group. From USD 140 to USD 350. 

• Full Rinjani, Jl Pariwiasta Senaru, Bayan, ☏ +62 87864356690, full123expedition@gmail.com. Offers a Rinjani trekking package. They tout their team as experienced, professional, friendly and caring about the environment and provide high-quality camping equipment (tents, sleeping bags, mattresses, pillows, camping chairs and a toilet tent) and tasty food. 

• Lenk Rinjani, Jl Pariwiasta, Senaru village, ☏ +6281915987599, infotrekrinjani@gmail.com. Provides trekking packages to Mount Rinjani can be sharing package (join group) and private trek tour by sembalun gate or senaru gate trekking start 

• Rinjani Fun Trekking, Jl Pariwiasta, Senaru village, ☏ +6281999195335, rinjanifun@gmail.com. Reliable Mount Rinjani trekking organizer established by experienced local guides. 

• Herman Trekker Rinjani, Jalan Pariwisata, Senaru, ☏ +6281918429666, info@hermantrekkerrinjani.com. Headed by Herman, who previously worked as a barman and is familiar with western culture and accommodation. Team of experienced guides for Mt. Rinjani. The team speaks good English and is polite and accommodating. Herman has a high respect for the environment and practices sustainable trekking activities. (updated Jun 2015)

• John’s Adventures, Jl Senaru, Senaru, ☏ +62 817 5788018, rinjani_master@yahoo.com. Established agency with full range of trekking packages. John has been guiding climbers and arranging treks up Rinjani for over 20 years. Comfortable base at Senaru with a cafe, pickups are available from hotels and the airport. 

• Lombok Rinjani Trek Organisation, Hotel Lombok Raya, Mataram, ☏ +62 370 641124, +62 813 53443445. Official partnership between the national park authority and local communities with support from NZ AID. Full range of trekking packages. City office in Mataram and one at each of the two trek departure points. 

• Rinjani Footprint, Jl Wisata Alam Kerandangan, ☏ +62 370 693122, +62 813 5344 3445 (hotline), rinjani.fp@gmail.com. Professionally run expeditions under the management of an experienced operator. All trek teams work to prescribed standards including; direct first hand experience at the destination, respect for the environment, social and cultural sensitivities & strict labour policies. Search & rescue training is provided for the trek teams, licensed travel agent, subscribed to the Travel Compensation Fund (TCF). 

• Rinjani Trekking (Oshin Trekking), Jalan Raya, Senggigi, ☏ +6281246211359, oshintrekking@yahoo.com. Provides Rinjani Mountain information and trekking packages. (updated Jun 2015)

• Rinjani Trekking Club, Jl. Raya Senggigi Km 08, Senggigi, ☏ +62 370 693202, fax: +62 370 693202, rinjaniclub@gmail.com. 24hr. Team of young biologists and naturalists providing expert trekking guides experienced on Mount Rinjani Lombok. Teams are trained and licensed in search and rescue technique (SAR-Lombok). Local porters are used and they work to a code of environmental respect and sustainable use of the trekking routes. The manager is Imron Rosadi (Ronie), who is well respected in the field of Rinjani trekking services. Ascents use the Senaru, Sambulan Lawang and Benang Stokel routes. whatsApp +628175730415 

• Trekking Rinjani Organizer, Jalan cendrawasih No 8 Cakranegara, Nusa Tenggara Barat, ☏ +62 812 3761387, info@trekkingrinjani.com. Tour packages offering the ascent of Mount Rinjani, 2 days 1 night, 3 days 2 nights, 4 days 3 nights, 5 days 4 nights and 6 days 5 nights. 

This is by far the most used route as it allows the (relatively) less strenuous trek to the crater rim only. You start at an elevation of 600 m in Senaru village, normally in the late morning or early afternoon and make the 6 hour ascent to the crater rim before dark. The route passes through POSII at 1,500 m, breaches the treeline at 2,000 m (POSIII) and then it is a bit of slog up gravel paths to the camp site just below the crater rim at 2,600 m. Wake before dawn to make the 20 to 30 minute final climb to the crater rim to enjoy sunrise and the iconic view across Segara Anak to Gunung Baru.

If that has not sapped all of your energy you can then make a very precarious descent down to shores of the crater lake and bath in the hot waters. You need some confidence to do this as it is a steep descent of 600+ m using handrails and ropes.

And then it is back to Senaru the way you came.

There is an option to go on to Plawangan II where you overnight again before making the ascent to the absolute summit. This is not especially recommended from the Senaru side though. If you want to get to the top, the climb to Plawangan II is best made from Sambulan Lawang.

Starting in the morning from the Rinjani Trek Centre in the village, the climb to Plawangan II at 2,638 m will take about 8 hr via POSI (1,300 m), POSII (1,500 m) and POSIII (1,800 m). Overnight at the campsite here and go for the summit starting at 3AM the next day. You need to be well rested as this is a stiff task - the final climb is nearly 1,100 m on difficult ground.

Departs from the village of Aik Berik in Central Lombok and is about 27km east of Mataram or a little less than an hour’s drive. Locally Benang Stokel is well known for its 2 waterfalls, the Benang Kelambu waterfall and Benang Stokel waterfall. Treks normally depart from this waterfall location. The ascent up to the crater rim takes around 6 hours. From there a descent to the crater lake requires a further 3 hours. This track offers lots of variety and includes the Tiara Dewi Anjani waterfall. This is a route suitable for experienced trekkers.

There are other activities centred around the park including eco-walks and tree planting treks.

A day trip around the Senaru and Bayan region can provide a mix of nature and culture. Some providers can organise visits to the traditional village in Senaru, a walk through the rice paddies, and a short walk to the two waterfalls of Senaru with a refreshing dousing in the falling water at the bottom. It's also possible to visit the old mosque in Bayan, or to have a look at the production of handicrafts in and around Bayan. The food market in Ancak might appeal to some people who would like to try some typical local food.
All those things may be done independently, or with a guide from one of the trekking providers. This can offer some good alternative activities for those who are unable to make an ascent for any reason, including the standard seasonal closure of the ascent routes.

Choose the provider for a mountain ascent carefully to ensure they do actually have an understanding of the local environment and an informed and genuine commitment to environmental sustainability practice. One long term Rinjani trek provider, Rinjani Trekking Club, has attempted to shift the focus of activities upon the mountain to one of environmental respect and sustainability. Programs such as carrying out rubbish and maintaining clean camp sites and trails is a stated objective of the more eco-sustainable trek providers.
It is important to ensure that if a trek marketed as eco-friendly is taken that the trekking guides do indeed thoroughly conform to their own stated objectives and policies during the trek.

There is no lodging in the park itself, but some simple places to stay can be found at Senaru & Sembalun Lawang.

Tanjung on the nearby northwest coast has several more upmarket offerings, and both it and the Gili Islands are reasonably close to Mount Rinjani. Many visitors choose to stay in the Senggigi region and travel north to Mount Rinjani by road.

Please see the sleep section at Senaru for details.

• Lembah Rinjani Homestay, Sembalun Lawang village, ☏ +62 852 39841709, lembahrinjani@gmail.com. 10 double rooms all with cold water showers. Has a decent restaurant attached. Rp 175,000. 

Camping is possible at designated rest shelter areas on the ascent routes, and at the crater rim.