Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii is considered by archaeologists as a possibility for a Pacific coastal route taken by the first humans migrating to the Americas from the Bering Strait. At this time Haida Gwaii was likely not an island, but connected to Vancouver Island and the mainland via the now-submerged continental shelf.

It is unclear how people arrived on Haida Gwaii, but archaeological sites have established human habitation on the islands as far back as 13,000 years ago. Populations that had inhabited Beringia expanded into northern North America after the Last Glacial Maximum. Underwater stone structures discovered in 2014 on the seabed of Hecate Strait may date back 13,700 or more years, and be the earliest known signs of human habitation in Canada.

The group of people inhabiting these islands developed a culture made rich by the abundance of the land and sea. These people became the Haida. The Haida were a matriarchal society – the women made the decisions prior to European discovery. The Haida are a linguistically distinct group, and they have a complex class and rank system consisting of two main clans: Eagles and Ravens.

Diversity within the Haida Nation was gained through a cross-lineal marriage system between the clans. This system was also important for the transfer of wealth within the nation, with each clan reliant on the other for the building of longhouses, the carving of totem poles and other items of cultural importance. Noted seafarers, the Haida occupied more than 100 villages throughout the islands. The Haida were skilled traders, with established trade links with their neighbouring First Nations on the mainland to California.

The archipelago was discovered by Europeans in 1774 by Juan Pérez, at Langara Island, and in 1778 by James Cook. In 1794, the Haida captured and sank a pair of European vessels, Ino and Resolution, that were seeking to trade for sea otter pelts. Most of the ships' crew were killed. In 1851, the Haida captured the Georgiana, a ship carrying gold prospectors, and held its crew for ransom for nearly two months.

The islands played an important role during the maritime fur trade era of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. During most of that era the trade in the islands was dominated by Americans. The Oregon Treaty of 1846 put an end to American claims to the islands. Following the discovery of gold in the 1850s the British made efforts to exclude whatever American territorial claims might remain.

The islands are home to the Ta'an Forest, with a wide variety of large endemic trees, including the Sitka spruce, western red cedar, yellow cedar (Nootka cypress), shore pine, western hemlock, mountain hemlock, and red alder.

Soils are variable. Peat is common in poorly drained flats and even on sloping ground in the wetter areas. Kiidk'yaas (Golden Spruce), a naturally occurring genetic-variant yellow-colour Sitka spruce tree, was near the Yakoun River, the largest on Graham Island. It was a popular tourist attraction until it was illegally cut down in 1997 as a protest against the industrial logging practices.

From the spring of 1996 until November 30, 1997 a popular attraction for tourists to the islands was the male albino 'White Raven'. He lived around Port Clements and would commonly be seen taking food handouts from locals and visitors alike. He died after making contact with an electrical transformer. The White Raven was preserved by former Port Clements residents, taxidermists Roger Britten Sr. and Jr., and is on display in the Port Clements Historical Society's museum.

The climate of this temperate northern hemisphere forested region, like that of much of the British Columbia and Alaskan coast in the area, is moderated by the North Pacific Current, with heavy rainfall and relatively mild temperatures throughout the year.

In the relatively shielded areas around Tlell and Sandspit annual rainfall averages from 1,200 millimetres (47 in) to 1,400 millimetres (55 in). Snowfall is generally moderate, averaging from 10 cm (4 in) to 70 cm (28 in), though at northerly Langara Island it averages around 100 cm (40 in).

Precipitation is typically extremely frequent, occurring on around two-thirds of all days even in relatively shielded areas, and direct sunlight is scarce, averaging around 3 to 4 hours per day.

• Masset (ZMT ^IATA) - daily flights from Vancouver operated by Pacific Coastal Airlines
• Sandspit (YZP ^IATA). daily flights from Vancouver operated by Air Canada flies into Sandspit from Vancouver

Ocean Pacific Air, ☏ +1-250-624-5879, toll-free: +1-844-228-9229, oceanpacificair@gmail.com. Operates charter seaplane flights between Prince Rupert and Haida Gwaii. (updated Aug 2022)

🌍 BC Ferries - Graham Island (Skidegate) ferry terminal, Skidegate Landing, ☏ +1 250-559-8204, toll-free: +1-888-223-3779. (updated Jun 2020)

• Vehicle ferry from Prince Rupert ferry terminal (7 to 8 hours crossing) on the North Coast, departing once per day 4 to 6 days per week. Some of these crossings may travel overnight.

Some travelers may wish to take the scenic Inside Passage route from Port Hardy in North Vancouver Island. This is a 2-day trip, departing from Port Hardy, sailing 16 to 22 hours up the scenic coast of British Columbia to Prince Rupert. From Prince Rupert you will catch a second ferry to the Haida Gwaii. Reservations are strongly recommended as space is limited and the summer months are busy.

BC Ferries, toll-free: +1-888-223-3779. (updated Aug 2022) Operates vehicle ferries between Graham Island (Skidegate) ferry terminal and 🌍 Moresby Island (Alliford Bay) ferry terminal, crossing in 20 minutes. Ferries depart every 1 to 2 hours.

The islands have developed highway infrastructure, and the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16) travels from Skidegate to Masset on Graham Island. There are also numerous vehicle rental companies on island, and most communities have their own taxi services. If these options don't work for you, try sticking out your thumb. Hitch hiking isn't uncommon here.