Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Radiocarbon dating suggests that ancient Hawaiians settled this area of Puna and Ka`u some time between 1200 and 1450 AD. The coastal area was likely settled first. Evidence of living areas can be found in the remnants of house platforms and habitation caves still scattered throughout the lowland and upland areas. Trail systems later connected the villages along the coast to house sites in the upper regions as well as provided access to the upland resources.

Major historic events also took place in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park including the death of a large portion of a warrior party by an explosive volcanic eruption of Kilauea in 1790. Evidence of their last march can be found in footprints preserved in the hardened ash. The Ka`u Desert has also revealed evidence of intensive use of temporary shelter sites along a major trail system connecting the lower Ka`u District and Kilauea. Living on an active lava landscape can be found literally everywhere in Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park. Over 14,000 prehistoric archaeological features have been recorded.

The first European to travel through here was the Reverend William Ellis in 1823. Numerous eruptions and lava flows drew adventurers and scientists to the crater rim. Remnants of these early visits can be found in the trails and historic roads that cross the park. The historic 1877 Volcano House, which overlooks the Kilauea Caldera, was one of the early guesthouses in the park. Today, it is used by the Kilauea Art Center. The 1941 Volcano House, perched on the caldera rim, continues to provide lodging for park visitors. The USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory (HVO), founded in 1912, preceded the establishment of the park by four years. The Whitney Seismograph Vault, part of the 1912 HVO facility, still remains. Remnants of a former pulu factory remain hidden in the forest. World War II impacted the park as well. Several areas of the park were used for bombing practice and the historic Kilauea Military Camp which preceded the park establishment by only a few months, was developed as a rest and relaxation camp for military personnel and this use continues today. During World War II, it served various roles including housing of POWs.

The park was established in 1916. Work was initiated to provide basic infrastructure for the fledgling park in the 1920s, with more infrastructure development occurring in the 1930s as part of the Emergency Conservation Work program and later the Civilian Conservation Corps.

The landscape is varied from the expected volcanic lavas (there is more than one kind), to dry forest to rainforest to rocky beach. Calderas, pit craters, lava tubes, crevices, geothermal vents and flowing lava are some of the volcanic manifestations. A caldera is a large, basin-shaped volcanic depression, more or less circular, the diameter of which is many times greater than that of the included vents. A pit crater is a crater formed by sinking in of the surface. It is not primarily a vent for lava.

Five volcanoes make up the island of Hawai`i: Kohala, Mauna Kea, Hualalai, Mauna Loa, and Kilauea. Volcanoes that will never erupt again are considered extinct. Dormant volcanoes have not erupted in historic time (the last 200 years in Hawai`i) but probably will erupt again. Active volcanoes have erupted in historical time (the last 200 years in Hawai`i).

• Kohala, the oldest volcano on this island, last erupted about 60,000 years ago and is considered extinct.
• Mauna Kea last erupted 3,600 years ago and is dormant.
• Hualalai, Mauna Loa, and Kilauea are active.
  • Hualalai erupted seven times in the last 2,100 years. The only historic eruptions were in 1800 and 1801. Mauna Loa last erupted in 1984 and sent flows towards Hilo. Kilauea erupted from 1983 until 2018. As of August of 2018, no magma is visible in the park.
• Loihi, a submarine volcano, is 15 miles (24 km) southeast of the island and 3,178 feet (969 m) below sea level. Loihi will probably not reach sea level for another 250,000 years or more. Seismicity, geothermal vents, and fresh lava indicate Loihi is active.

The Hawaiian Archipelago is the most geographically isolated group of islands on Earth. The park sits on the southeastern edge of the youngest and largest island at a latitude of 19°N. Stretching from the summit of Mauna Loa at 13,677 feet to sea level, the park protects a wide diversity of ecosystems and habitats in seven different ecological life zones. Native Hawaiian species include carnivorous caterpillars, happy face spiders, colorful Hawaiian honeycreepers, the largest dragonfly in the United States, crickets partial to new lava flows, endangered sea turtles, and just one native terrestrial mammal - a bat.

Hawaiian plants and animals began to evolve over 70 million years ago in nearly complete isolation and over 90% of the native terrestrial flora and fauna in Hawaii are found only in the Hawaiian islands. This level of endemism surpasses all other places on Earth - even the Galapagos Islands. Consequently, the Park is a fantastic laboratory for the study of biogeography and evolution within the Pacific Islands. Today, the park harbors the descendants of those first colonizers - numerous evolutionary marvels such as mintless mints and nettleless nettles - plants adapted to life without plant-eating mammals.

Despite their protected status, the park's treasure trove of species faces decimating threats from declining habitat outside Park boundaries, invasive plants, bird malaria, wildfires, feral cats and pigs, and introduced goats, sheep, rats, mongoose, ants, and wasps are all taking a toll. Three endangered species, the nene, Hawaiian petrel and the hawksbill turtle are targeted for full recovery by the National Park Service and its partners who are actively engaged in restoring habitat, guarding nest sites, monitoring threats and population impacts and removing alien wildlife.

Weather at Kilauea's summit (4000 ft elevation) varies daily and may be rainy and chilly any time of the year. Temperature varies by elevation. At the summit of the volcano, temperatures may be 12 to 15 degrees cooler than at sea level. The coastal plain at the end of Chain of Craters Road, where lava is entering the ocean, is often hot, dry, and windy with the possibility of passing showers.

• Park website

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is on the Big Island of Hawai`i.

• From Hilo: 30 miles southwest on Highway 11 (a 45 minute drive).
• From Kailua-Kona: 96 miles southeast on Highway 11 (2-2½ hour drive), or 125 miles through Waimea and Hilo via highways 19 and 11 (2½-3 hours).

• Hele On Bus system (Volcano stop on the Kau/Hilo or Kona/Hilo routes). There is only one limited county bus that comes to the park, operating M-Sa, no holidays. Like most buses on the island it is designed for commuters. The bus route connects Hilo to Ka'u and runs a couple times early in the morning and a couple times in the afternoon. (updated Sep 2018)

International and mainland carriers service Hilo and Kona International Airports. Hilo and Kona Airports are also served by inter-island carriers.

There are more options nearby in the quaint town of Volcano Village 1–2 minutes north of the park.

• 🌍 Kilauea Military Camp (KMC), 99-252 Crater Rim Dr, ☏ +1 808 967-8333, usarmy.kmc-reservations@mail.mil. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. For active or retired Military or DoD civilians (GS), this camp offers 90 one-, two- or three-bedroom cabins or apartments for nightly rental. (updated Apr 2020)

• 🌍 The Volcano House Hotel, 1 Crater Rim Drive, ☏ +1 844-569-8849, frontdesk@hawaiivolcanohouse.com. A historic hotel with 33 guest rooms located inside of the park on the edge of the Kilaeua crater. Also operates rustic camper cabins at the Namakanipaio Campground. The cabins sleep 4 (1 double bed and 2 bunk-style twin beds). Each cabin has a picnic table and an outdoor barbecue grill. Showers are available. Reservations are required; contact info is the same as the Volcano House. 

Namakanipaio and Kulanaokuaiki are two drive-in campgrounds and there are many backcountry hiking/camping areas located within Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park. These campgrounds are free, however, proof of payment of park entrance fee is required.

Drive-In camping is available on a first-come basis. no reservations or permits, and no check-in are necessary. Stays are limited to 7 days in a month and cannot exceed 30 days per year.

• 🌍 Kulanaokuaiki. 9 sites, two of which are wheelchair accessible. Kulanaokuaiki is located off Hilina Pali Road at 3,200 feet (975 m), there are nine walk-in campsites with picnic tables. There is an accessible vault toilet; however, no water is available and campfires are not permitted. Use fueled camping stoves only. This campground is subject to closure when the area is dry and during times of high fire risk. No dogs or pets are allowed at this campground to protect endangered nene. $10 Per site (2020 rates). (updated Jun 2020)

• 🌍 Nāmakanipaio (The campground is located 31.5 miles south of Hilo on Highway 11.). 16 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Nāmakanipaio Campground is located at 4,000 ft elevation. It is a large, open grassy area with tall eucalyptus and 'ohi'a trees. This campground has restrooms, water, picnic tables and barbecue pits. Campfires are permitted in the barbeque pits only. Maximum stay is 7 days. These are shared facilities with just a few individual sites. $15 Per tent site (2020 rates). (updated Jun 2020)

All day hikers and overnight backcountry users must register and obtain a free permit at the Kilauea Visitor Center (7:45AM–4:45PM daily). Permits are issued on a first-come basis no earlier than the day before your hike. Overnight stays at campgrounds are limited. Check with rangers at the Kilauea Visitor Center for specific campground locations and allowable numbers.

1. Minimum Impact Camping All hikers are required to pack out everything they pack in. Do not bury your trash or discard it in pit toilets - pack it out. Practice leave-no-trace camping.
2. Water There are no streams in the park so backpackers may have to bring in all their own water. Some campgrounds have water collection systems. Updates on their current water levels are available at the Kilauea Visitor Center, check before you go, while obtaining your permit!
3. Trail Conditions Hiking over rocky terrain is strenuous. Hiking boots provide the best traction and protection when hiking on lava. Long pants afford some protection if you fall on the sharp, glassy lava. Allow 1/2 hour per mile when hiking on mid-elevation trails and more time as you gain elevation. Add additional time for scenic stops, and water breaks.
4. The ahu (stone cairn) trail markers can be difficult on first sight to distinguish from the surrounding lava. However, the trails are well marked and hikers soon become accustomed to spotting the cairns in the black lava fields. Sunlight may be intense. Hats, sunglasses, and sunscreen are preventive measures against sunburn. Start your trek early to avoid being on park trails during the hottest times of the day.
5. Health Hazards Many hikes are through exposed lava fields and lush rain forests. Pace yourself, drink plenty of water. Pack extra clothing and your sleeping bag in plastic for waterproofness. Raingear is essential. Stay warm and dry; hypothermia (low body temperature) is a killer. Be prepared for treating injuries caused by falls on sharp, glassy lava.
6. Volcanic Hazards Volcanic eruptions are possible at any time. In the unlikely event of a lava outbreak along the trail, move uphill and upwind of eruptive activity. Earth cracks, thin crusts, and lava tubes are numerous.
7. Fire Hazards Trails in the park traverse areas which contain very flammable grasses and brush. Open fires and smoking is prohibited.
8. Cultural and Natural Resources Please respect all archaeological sites and artifacts left by ancient Hawaiians. Do not move any rocks, climb on or alter any rock structures, such as lava trees, walls, heiau (ancient temples), or petroglyphs (rock engravings). Entry into caves is prohibited. All plants, animals, rocks and other natural and archaeological or cultural features are protected by law against removal, injury, or destruction.
9. Dogs and firearms are prohibited in the wilderness
10. Before you go, leave a trip plan with another person. Make sure they understand that should you be lost or injured on the trail, they are your only link to help and should report you overdue if you fail to contact them by a predesignated time. If lost, stay where you are. Use bright colors and reflective materials to attract attention. Rangers will not start a wilderness search until 24 hours after they are notified that a hiker is missing. To report a lost or overdue hiker, call Hawaii County 911.
11. Check Out of the Backcountry At the completion of your hike, report out by stopping at the Kilauea Visitor Center and informing the ranger that you have completed your hike. Permits are issued because of the dynamic nature of this volcano. In the event of an eruption, it is important for rangers to know who may be in danger.