Hebrides

The map points below are for the principal settlement on each island.

"The Western Islands of Scotland . . . were called by the ancient geographers Æbudæ and Hebrides; but they knew so little of them, that they neither agreed in their name nor number."

- Martin Martin from Skye in 1703 wrote one of the earliest accounts of this region.

The Picts are the earliest people we know of here (there were obviously predecessors) but they were supplanted by the Vikings from the 7th century, then by Dál Riata the Gaelic forerunner to Alba and Scotland. The Hebridean bedrock is impermeable so where it lies flat, it's covered in boggy heath, and elsewhere it rises as gnarly hills, equally difficult to farm. There was little reason for anyone to visit, and in the 18th and 19th centuries the population drained away, either voluntarily or driven out by the Highland Clearances to make way for sheep. This left an empty, treeless and impoverished region, though the bonus was that its natural scenery and prehistoric monuments were preserved.

The revival came with the development of modern transport and tourism, attracting new businesses. This most affected the Inner Hebrides, and scenic Skye and easy-to-reach Mull can feel frankly touristy in mid-summer. But the visitors only look many because their destinations are small, it's easy to escape, and there are long idyllic beaches and rugged headlands that you will have to yourself. Even Skye and Mull are tranquil outside July / Aug peak season.

• Callanish stone circle on Lewis is the outstanding prehistoric structure in the Hebrides. The Lewis chessmen were found nearby, but you'll have to visit the British Museum in London or the NMS in Edinburgh to see them.
• Black houses were the traditional Hebridean hovel until late Victorian times. They had a single long room, a peat fire burning in the middle with no chimney, and cattle kept at one end. Several have been preserved as museums or living spaces, with examples on all the main islands. People decamped into cleaner "white houses" but Tiree adopted a curious hybrid, the "pudding house".
• Castles are mostly gnarly medieval ruins; Kisimul on Barra is the best of these. Those converted into mansions that you can visit include Duart Castle at Craignure on Mull, Dunvegan on Skye and Lews in Stornoway.
• Iona has an elegantly rebuilt cathedral amidst other ruins. The monasteries of the Hebrides were wrecked by the Vikings, restored by the Normans, then fell derelict again during the Reformation. However their graveyards continued in use, and some were incorporated into later churches, as on Lismore.
• Trotternish the northeast peninsula of Skye has the most spectacular scenery of that island, with formations such as the Quiraing and Old Man of Storr.
• Fingal's Cave on Staffa is the most dramatic of the basalt scenery produced by Atlantic eruptions, extending through Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland to the active volcanoes of Iceland.
• The Northern Lights are frequently visible in winter, as the Hebrides are free of light pollution. But not in summer, as it never gets properly dark.

• Hebridean Way is a hiking and cycling trail across the Outer Hebrides from Vatersay to Stornoway and the Butt of Lewis.
• Beaches in many places are long, sandy and unspoiled, but the water is cold. You need a chunky wetsuit for activities such as surfing, windsurfing or kayaking.
• Check the tides then walk to Orosay / Oronsay, it hardly matters which, as it's the generic Viking term for a tidal island. Examples lie off Barra, Colonsay (with a ruined priory), Coll and Skye, and the Uists have a dozen.
• Music festivals are held on Mull in April, Islay and Skye in May, and Lewis in July. Look out also for Highland Games, clan gatherings and agricultural shows in summer.

If you bring a car, fill upon the mainland before coming over. The islands are quite large and you'll spend a lot of time in third gear.

The inhabited islands have small stores. Only Stornoway is big enough for a proper supermarket; it's closed on Sunday.

Wild camping is a legal right in Scotland, so long as you stay away from houses and don't disturb livestock. But overnight parking is restricted - the police will fine and move on anyone parking overnight on the roadside. The Hebrides have a real problem in summer with caravans and RVs cluttering the lay-bys and passing places, so you may be turned back at the ferry port if you can't show you've booked accommodation at your destination.

Most islands have designated camping and caravan sites, though most close for winter. Don't camp in summer if you react badly to midge bites - they greet arrivals in hungry hordes.

All short-term accommodation in Scotland must be registered, otherwise it's illegal and probably a flea-pit or fire-trap. The law (which does not apply to England) comes fully into force in July 2024, so for the time being proprietors can reasonably say that their registration is still being processed. Be increasingly sceptical as the deadline approaches. It's unwelcome extra bureaucracy for B&Bs, campsites and so on but in the long-term should better protect travellers and honest providers.

Small independent guesthouses - B&Bs - are the mainstay of Hebridean accommodation; many close in winter. Chains such as Premier Inn have a presence at the mainland ferry ports but have baulked at the economics of setting up on the islands.

You can stay in a castle in Stornoway, Tarbert and Tobermory.

Always beware traffic. The road may look like a deserted country lane, but any moment a truck will hurtle along in a rush to catch the ferry.

Take usual care of valuables. Island folk are honest but what about the visitors? - those roughnecks you saw getting liquored up on the ferry for example.

The Hebrides are on about the same latitude as Labrador. The Atlantic means it's never intensely cold, and the hills are of no great height, but the wind and driving rain can soon induce hypothermia, even in summer. You'll be in a sparsely populated area, often with no mobile signal to call for help. And the cold sea always demands your respect.

Pack enough of your usual medications and some spare, in case of disruptions to your homeward journey. Only the larger towns have a pharmacy, similarly low on stock if deliveries have been disrupted.

• Orkney Islands north of the Scottish mainland are a complete contrast, low-lying with green fields and bright red bedrock. They're studded with Viking and prehistoric sites.
• Shetland Islands further north are low-lying and treeless. Riven by fjords, they're Norse not Gaelic.
• Islands in the Firth of Clyde, principally Arran and the Bute, are within a day-trip of Glasgow, so they get busy on summer weekends.
• Mainland isolates: Knoydart has no road connection so you have to take a ferry. Ardnamurchan has a roundabout road link but the ferry is quicker.