Huanghe Hukou Pubu National Park

The easiest way is to join a tour group in Xi'an, Shaanxi province, however, that would limit your time at the waterfall, as the group will be rushed to also travel to tombs, jade showrooms and other sights in the area.

To travel without the constraints of a tour party, you will want to get to either the city of Yichuan on the Shaanxi side or Linfen on the Shanxi side.

This is not the most clear-cut travel plan, however, the site is still relatively remote - especially for Chinese tourists. Just make sure you're constantly telling your drivers and ticket people that you're going to Hu Kou Pu Bu, and they will go out of their way to make sure you get on the right track.

As yet there is no entrance fee to the waterfall area. There is a checkpoint, but if you enter on a motorcycle or in a private taxi, you will be waved right in.

Getting around the waterfall is really convenient. You can walk from the guesthouses to the river in about 5 minutes. The riverbed is of massive sandstone shelves, so you can wander around up and down the river freely. There is not much of a fence between you and the river gorge, so approach at your own risk.

The waterfall steals the show. However, as you're riding in by bus or car, the high desert hills and homes burrowed into the mountains are quite a site as opposed to the green and wet southern Chinese countryside. Just northwest Yan'an is the famed terminus of the Long March and the whole area whistles with that dry revolutionary spirit. Again, the waterfall is extremely spectacular and powerful.

• 🌍 Hukou Waterfall, Southwestern Shanxi along the border with Shaanxi Province (Ji County (Jixian) is the nearest substantial town, 45 km away; it is best accessed from the major city of Linfen. Hukou can also be reached from Yannan City in Shaanxi Province, on the other side of the river). The Hukou Waterfall is the second largest waterfall in China and the largest on the legendary Yellow River. As a result it is often claimed that this is "the only yellow waterfall in the world." At Hukou, located right on the border between Shanxi and Shaanxi Provinces, the 300-meter-wide Yellow River suddenly narrows and is forced violently through a 20-meter-wide gorge before falling turbulently into a stone pond 30 meters below prior to continuing its voyage towards the sea. Over 1000 cubic meters of water per second rush frothily through this narrow opening in the rock, somewhat resembling water being poured from a giant teapot. It is this appearance, plus all of this mist which the waterfall throws off, which gives rise to the waterfall's Chinese name, "Kettle Spout Falls." With viewing platforms just above the falls, visitors can view the Hukou Waterfall from close up. (updated Dec 2017)

Spending a night or two at the waterfall will give you enough time to realize the wonder of the river. Hanging out at the guest house, eating and drinking at their small cafe, walking up and down the riverbed and chatting with the local drivers and guides are all relaxing and an excellent window into the life of these who live beside China's greatest waterfall.

Beside the waterfall, you will be approached by numerous guys with cameras who will ask to take your photo in front of the waterfall. Take as many as you want, then they will develop them on "Hu Kou Pu Bu" photo paper and sell them to you for ¥15-20 a piece.

There are also many merchants with donkeys walking around with souveniers and trinkets for sale.

Make sure you visit the waterfall at both dusk and dawn, as the crowds are almost nonexistent and the sound of the water is most thrilling.