Baltimore/Inner Harbor

The Inner Harbor's relatively shallow waters have long played second fiddle to Baltimore's deep water harbors in the south of the city. Unable to accommodate large freighters, the port received light freight and passenger traffic, but even in these categories, the Inner Harbor lagged behind the busier docks at Fell's Point. Consequently, despite its central location, the Inner Harbor always remained underdeveloped, and more than a little seedy.

In the 1960s, particularly after the 1968 riots following the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr that devastated the city, the Inner Harbor sunk into decline with the rest of the city, leaving the waterfront dominated by abandoned warehouses, deteriorating industrial buildings, and open grassy areas for the occasional festival.

In 1980, in what was considered nothing but hopeless folly, Mayor D'Alesandro Jr. came up with an expensive plan to revitalize the Inner Harbor, starting with the construction of the waterfront Harborplace, a big, attractive, indoor mall filled with shops and cafeteria dining. Shortly thereafter the city built the National Aquarium and Maryland Science Center, and lo and behold, the plan was a spectacular success, and the Inner Harbor took off and hasn't looked back.

Today, the Inner Harbor is the city centerpiece, Maryland's number one tourist destination, and the single biggest economic boon for the city. The views across the harbor and its ships towards the old Domino Sugar Factory in the south and the skyscrapers, including the Maryland World Trade Center, in the north are the icons of the city. Restaurants and big hotels line the waterfront, and tourists fill the streets, promenade, and piers. The Inner Harbor is less popular with locals, however, so you would do well to get out a bit to other neighborhoods like Fell's Point and Midtown to get a better feel for the local culture!

The Inner Harbor is one of the 3 sections of downtown that makeup the "Charm'tastic Mile", a 1.3-mile corridor of shops, bars, restaurants and museums that connects Downtown-West, the Inner Harbor & Harbor East. Baltimore was nicknamed "the Charm City" in 1975 by then Mayor William Donald Shaefer. The Charm'tastic Mile was introduced to the city in 2016.

The Inner Harbor is packed full of attractions, and is Maryland's destination number one for sightseeing. The most popular is without question the National Aquarium, which is almost an obligatory stop, but the ships and the Maritime Museum are a close second. The Maryland Science Center is a fantastic place to spend a half day with children, and the American Visionary Art Museum is an intriguing and unique gallery for anyone with the remotest interest in the arts.

• 🌍 American Visionary Art Museum, 800 Key Highway, ☏ +1 410-244-1900. W-Su 10AM-5PM. The most eclectic and interesting collection of contemporary art from non-professional artists, with many works of beauty, some of paranoia, and a fair share of sheer obsessive personality disorder! Adults $15.95, discounts available for seniors, children and large groups. 
• 🌍 Historic President Street Station, 601 President St (cross street Fleet, east of Pier 6 Concert Pavilion), ☏ +1 410-385-5188. Daily 10AM-4PM. The surviving headhouse of Baltimore’s first railway station. The platforms and train shed no longer survive, but the building narrowly escaped demolition on several occasions, and has been operated by volunteers as a museum since 1997. Formerly the Baltimore Civil War Museum, it still includes some exhibits on the station’s role during the U.S. Civil War. Operated by Friends of the President Street Station, and being considered for inclusion in the National Park System. $3/adult, $2/student, children under 12 free. 
• 🌍 Historic Ships in Baltimore (Piers 1, 3, and 5 at the Inner Harbor), ☏ +1 410-396-3453. 10AM-5PM daily, seasonal hours vary. At the piers of Inner Harbor are a collection of four different historic ships from Baltimore's maritime legacy, which have been decommissioned and converted into museums that you can tour on your own. Ticket prices range from $8-16 and are based on how many ships you want to tour (one, two or four), with discounts available for seniors and children. Admission to the lighthouse is always free. (updated Apr 2022)
  • 🌍 USS Constellation (Pier 1), ☏ +1 410-539-1797. The last all-sail warship built by the U.S. Navy and the only Civil War-era vessel still afloat. Pay attention to the ship's schedule for the day; Civil War reenactors may be on hand to demonstrate shooting a cannon! 
  • 🌍 USS Torsk (Pier 3). A World War II-era submarine. 
  • 🌍 Lightship Chesapeake (Pier 3). A floating, mobile lighthouse painted in a vibrant red; it was refitted for combat duty during World War II before returning to lighthouse purposes. 
  • 🌍 USCGC Taney (Pier 5). A Coast Guard cutter that survived the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor. 
  • 🌍 Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse (Pier 5). The oldest surviving screw-pile lighthouse on the Chesapeake Bay. 
• 🌍 Maryland Science Center, 601 Light St (south end of Inner Harbor promenade), ☏ +1 410-685-5225. Tu-F 10AM-4PM, Sa Su 10AM-5PM. Great family outing, full of hands-on, interactive science exhibits for kids of all ages. General admission $26.95, discounts available for seniors, children and military. 
• 🌍 National Aquarium, 501 E Pratt St, ☏ +1 410-576-3800. M-Th 9AM-5PM, F Sa 9AM-8PM, Su 9AM-6PM, seasonal hours vary. One of the best aquariums in the nation, the Baltimore Aquarium is famous for its tropical rain forest exhibit, its efforts to saving marine mammals, and its large shark tanks. Well worth the price of admission, it's a draw for marine scientists and civilians alike. Due to its popularity, expect to be in long lines to purchase tickets and then have to wait to enter several hours later, especially during weekends or vacation times; to avoid this, plan ahead and purchase tickets early or online. General admission $49.95, discounts for seniors and children available. Half price Fridays after 5PM.. 
• 🌍 Top of the World, 401 E Pratt St, ☏ +1 410-837-VIEW (8439). Summer hours: M-Th 10AM-6PM, F Sa 10AM-7PM, Su 11AM-6PM; non-summer hours: W-Su 10AM-6PM; last admission one half hour before closing. An observation deck on the 27th floor of the 31-story "World Trade Center", designed by I.M. Pei the tallest pentagonal building in the world and located directly on the waterfront. It provides amazing views of downtown, the inner harbor and bay, and all of the surrounding neighborhoods. Admission $8, discounts available for seniors, children and military. 
• 🌍 Ice Rink at Baltimore's Inner Harbor, 201 East Pratt St (top of the Amphitheater at the Inner Harbor (between the Harborplace Pavilions)), ☏ +1 443-743-3308. M-Th 3-8PM, F 3-11PM, Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 11AM-8PM. Ice skating rink at the Inner Harbor open during the holidays from mid/late November to early/mid January (check website for exact hours and dates). Adults $9; kids, military, seniors $7; skate rental $4. 
• 🌍 Christmas Village in Baltimore, 501 Light St. German-style Christmas market with vendors offering food, holiday gifts, a beer garden and a Santa to take photos with that is open from Thanksgiving Day to Christmas Eve. Free admission on weekdays (admission fee on most weekend days — check website for exact operating hours and prices). (updated Nov 2016)

• Baltimore Heritage Walk, ☏ +1 443-514-5900. Guided and self-guided three-mile tours departing from the city's Visitor Center, and covering territory through Downtown, and historic Jonestown, Little Italy, and Fells Point. Free guided tours, 1 May-2 November, departing 10AM. (updated May 2017)
• 🌍 Urban Pirates, S Ann St, ☏ +1 410-327-8378, mail@urbanpirates.com. A swashbuckling adventure on a pirate ship in the Inner Harbor! As you might expect, this is very popular with younger kids. 

• 🌍 Port Discovery Children's Museum, 35 Market Pl, ☏ +1 410-727-8120, info@portdiscovery.org. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. (updated Jun 2019)

Harborplace offers a ton of shopping right by the main hotels, but outside of the mall, you won't find a lot of shopping here. If you are interested in more local shopping—boutiques, local flavor, etc.—a good bet are the many shops to the east in Fell's Point.

• 🌍 Harborplace, 200 E Pratt St, ☏ +1 410-323-1000. Broken up into two buildings. A third, the gallery on the other side of Pratt Street, has closed. This is a deserted mall in the middle of changing hands. There is a lobster roll joint, an Irish pub, an Cheesecake Factory, an Uno and not much else. One store sells primarily products maid or popularized in Baltimore. (updated Oct 2022)

You'll find many chain restaurants in Inner Harbor, ranging from the cheap like Potbelly or Chipotle to the more expensive McCormick & Schmick's or the Capital Grille; American and Canadian tourists will pretty much know what to expect. Don't bother with the food at Power Plant Live! just north of the harbor, as it's overpriced for the quality of food you get. The majority of the really good options will be east of the Aquarium in the burgeoning and uber-yuppie neighborhood of "Harbor East." Further north in the Downtown district, you'll find more local fare at Lexington Market, and one terrific local steakhouse. Going east to Fells Point and Little Italy is without a doubt the best option for dinner if you don't fancy the options here.

The Inner Harbor is the worst place in Baltimore for nightlife, barring the barren and dangerous neighborhoods of East and West Baltimore. It's safe here, and within easy striking distance of the big hotels, but the nightlife is almost completely manufactured for tourism, and is accordingly overpriced, plagued by poor service, and won't give you much any idea of what local nightlife is actually about. Nonetheless there are a handful of decent options, and while a tourist trap, Power Plant Live can still be a good time if you know what to expect, and don't mind it being a bit touristy. The one real standout option that does bring in locals from other parts of the city is the wine bar in Harbor East, listed above, Vino Rosina.

If the nightlife here is not to your liking, it is easy enough to go local and leave the Harbor. Just east is Fell's Point, which is arguably the city's party central, absolutely full of bars and locals out for a good time. From the west end of the Inner Harbor, it's a short walk to Federal Hill, with another big concentration of bars.

• 🌍 James Joyce Irish Bar, 616 President St, ☏ +1 410-727-5107. Daily 11AM-2AM. A fairly typical and large Irish pub, but a particularly nice one, and just off the Inner Harbor. The beer list is standard, but the Irish food menu is surprisingly good. Frequent live music. 

Rates are understandably on the high side in the Inner Harbor, and the cheaper rooms at hotels lack harbor views. Prices also vary widely depending on the season and rooms availability. If you find yourself priced out, consider a spot in Fells Point, or even up the light rail in Midtown. While the Downtown hotels are very close, keep in mind that the area is less safe to walk back to at night, and decidedly less family-friendly.

• Fort McHenry, in South Baltimore, is the city's most important attraction outside the Inner Harbor, and is not to be missed. The best way to go is to either take a taxi, be it by land or by sea, or for the more intrepid to take Bus #1.
• Little Italy and Fell's Point are just east of the Inner Harbor, and no trip to Baltimore would be complete without a visit to walk the neighborhood's historic harbor and to get a nice dinner at a Maryland seafood house or Italian restaurant.
• Lexington Market is just north of the Inner Harbor Downtown, and is the most efficient way to plunge yourself into the real culture of the city. Ignore people who tell you the market is unsafe (that's nonsense), and start browsing the food stalls and be sure to try some incredible crab cakes or soul food.
• Charles Street and Mount Vernon are north of Downtown in Midtown, an area very often overlooked by visitors, but are great for at least a half day visit to see the Washington Monument, the excellent Walters Art Museum, to see the opera, and to spend an evening at a great restaurant or bar, mixing it up with the locals in one of the coolest parts of the city.