Kanazawa

Kanazawa can get a lot of rain — it's "the Seattle of Japan". A local proverb says "even if you forget your lunchbox, don't forget your umbrella". Although the weather can be beautiful in spring and autumn, it is never a good idea to bank on it being fine in Kanazawa, and winters in particular are cold. Kanazawa is in the Snow Country, the area along the Japan Sea coast of Honshu where cold Siberian winds dump large amounts of snow in orographic precipitation, and while it does not get as much as more inland areas, half a meter or more is not uncommon. A common and lovely sight during the winter months is the ropes (called yukizuri in Japanese) hanging down from poles and attached to tree branches to help them support the heavy snow. Most of the main roads have lines of sprinklers down the street to wash the snow away, but the smaller roads often do not.

Kanazawa is not a very large city and the main attractions for visitors tend to be concentrated around five neighborhoods.

• Kanazawa Station and Omicho market. The area stretching between Kanazawa Station and the Omicho market has many modern hotels and stores, but also a plethora of smaller local traditional eateries and craft shops (which tend to be concentrated around Omicho market).
• Higashi-Chayagai. Located north of the Asano river, the area encompasses the famous geisha district of the same name as well as nice views over the river. The name "Higashi-Chayagai" means "the Eastern tea houses district". There are several nice drinking and eating places, traditional inns and teahouses as well as shops selling local crafts.
• Tera machi. Located south of the Sai river, the area (whose name means "temple district") houses many Buddhist temples (including the most famous, the Ninja temple) as well as the other main geisha district, the Nishi-Chayagai. The name "Nishi-Chayagai" means "the Western tea houses district".
• Castle, Kenroku-en Garden and museums. Admittedly a large area, it stretches from the Castle grounds to the north-west to the museum district to the south-east, and has the Kenroku-en Garden in its middle. Most of the city's museums are within this area, including the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, the various prefectural museums, and the D.T. Suzuki Museum.
• Kohrinbo and Katamachi. This area is perhaps the liveliest in the evening, as it comprises many shops and many drinking and eating places. The western part of the area houses the Nagamachi Samurai District, with its old houses and lovely local craft shops.

The nearest airport serving Kanazawa is in the city of Komatsu (KMQ ^IATA). JAL offers flights into Komatsu Airport from Tokyo Haneda Airport and Okinawa, while ANA flies from Tokyo Haneda and Sapporo. IBEX flies regional jets to Komatsu from Narita Airport, Sendai and Fukuoka. There are also international flights from Hong Kong, Seoul, Shanghai and Taipei.

From Komatsu airport, buses run directly to Kanazawa (40 min to JR Kanazawa Station, ¥1300; Feb 2023). Frequencies vary depending on the flight timetables; buses usually leave soon after the arrival of every domestic flight. Alternatively you could take a bus to Komatsu Station (12 min, ¥280) and a JR train from there, which is somewhat cheaper and, depending on your luck with connections, not much longer. Taxis are frequent though not cheap, and there are several rental car places in the area.

🌍 Kanazawa Station, a futuristic marvel that integrates a traditional wooden temple gate with glass and steel, is served by the Hokuriku Shinkansen. The fastest services, called Kagayaki (かがやき), operate during the morning and evening hours, connecting Tokyo in about 2½ hours. The more frequent Hakutaka (はくたか) makes all stops north of Nagano, taking about 3 hours. Without a Japan Rail Pass, these trains cost ¥14,380 each way for a reserved seat. Seat reservations are mandatory for the Kagayaki.

The Hokuriku Shinkansen continues South from Kanazawa to Komatsu, Fukui and Tsuruga. Connect at Tsuruga for the Thunderbird (サンダーバード) limited express services from Osaka and Kyoto. The Shirasagi (しらさぎ) limited express also runs on this line, but arrives from Maibara, with some trains starting from Nagoya.

All of the above trips are covered by the national Japan Rail Pass. Kanazawa is also covered by the JR Hokuriku Arch Pass which includes unlimited travel between Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka via Toyama and Kanazawa for seven consecutive days using all of the above routes (with the exception of trains between Maibara and Nagoya). The pass costs ¥24,440 if purchased outside of Japan, or ¥25,460 if purchased inside Japan. Unlimited seat reservations in standard cars can be made, but you'll have to pay extra for Green Car and GranClass seat reservations.

JR mainline trains on the Hokuriku line, now duplicated by the Shinkansen, have been transferred to private companies, and the Japan Rail Pass will not be valid unless you travel from Kanazawa to Tsubata Station to connect to the JR Nanao Line.

Kanazawa is served by the Hokuriku Expressway, which runs through the western edge of the city. It has three interchanges: Kanazawa East and Kanazawa West feed into National Route 8, and Kanazawa Morimoto feeds into the Mountainside Loop Road (山側環状線 Yamagawa kanjō-sen). The cost for a normal car from Kyoto-East via Maibara is ¥5,770, and the distance is 245 km (to Kanazawa West). From Suita IC in Osaka it is ¥6,630 and 282 km. From Niigata (Niigata-Chuo) it is ¥6,740 and 297 km. From Edobashi in the capital city of Tokyo, it is 481 km and ¥11,210 to Kanazawa East via the Kan-etsu and Jōshin-etsu Expressways.

The national Route 8 is also a good option for those on a budget or who wish to take a leisurely trip, stopping off to see various sights along the way. It is four-lane for much of the way, and so passing those slow old farmers in their white mini-trucks is possible. There are other routes into the city, such as via the base of Hakusan, or over the hills from Toyama prefecture.

From Tokyo, JR Bus runs two overnight services from Tokyo Station, with one-way fares starting between ¥3,800 and ¥5,100 for advance purchase depending on the bus. Willer Express runs buses from Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal above Shinjuku Station, starting from ¥5,200. Nishi-Tokyo Bus and Hokutetsu Bus operate services from Shibuya and Hachioji starting from ¥5,700. All of the buses take between 8 hr 30 min and 9 hr to reach Kanazawa.

Several other bus operators run daily trips to Kanazawa from cities including Nagoya (4 hr, ¥4,500), Kyoto (4 hr 20 min, from ¥2,800), Osaka (5 hr, from ¥3,000), Niigata (4 hr 30 min, ¥5,000) and Sendai (9 hr, ¥9,670). Highway buses also operate regularly to and from Toyama (1 hr, ¥930).

Kanazawa has a decent bus system to help you get where you need to go. There are three types of buses: city buses, a tourist bus, and community buses (Furatto-Bus). The tourist bus makes a loop around the main sights in 15 minutes and costs ¥200 per trip or ¥500 daily. There are four community bus routes which make 15-minute loops around different districts of the city and cost ¥100.　Buses are wheelchair accessible.

Bicycles can be hired from Kanazawa Station, and due to the winding streets and plethora of traffic lights and one way systems are often the fastest way to travel around town.

Bicycles can also be hired through the Kanazawa City bicycle share program, Machi-Nori. E-Bikes can be picked up at various points around the city, rented for specific time periods or for full days (or months!), and returned to any compatible port in the city.

Check if your hotel offers bicycle rental as well, as some may offer basic bicycle rental at rates lower than many city rental prices!

As the central city is fairly compact, one of the best ways to get around (at least when the weather is cooperative) is simply walking, exploring the narrow side streets. From east (Higashiyama) to west (Teramachi) would take about an hour at a leisurely pace, though to see everything between them properly would take days.

Driving in Kanazawa is not for the inexperienced. The old city in particular is a labyrinth of narrow twisting streets once you leave the main roads, and you need to be good at judging just how wide your vehicle is at times. Parking in the old city is also at a premium. However the newer areas on the outskirts are car-friendly, and parking is ample. For those using Kanazawa as a base to explore the Hokuriku and Hida regions, renting a car would be a good idea as public transport between some of the more far-flung areas is far and few between.

The river to the south, the Sai River, has on its far bank the main temple district of Teramachi (寺町). One of the more impressive ones in Japan, both sides of the road are lined with imposing walls and looming black-tiled roofs. Its eastern counterpart is the Higashiyama Temple District. In contrast to Teramachi's straight road, the eastern temples are dotted around the hillside in a maze of narrow streets. The Kodatsuno ridge also has a small temple area, dominated by Tentokuin.

• 🌍 Ninja Temple (妙立寺 Myōryu-ji). The tour guides insist there is no connection between the 'Ninja Temple' and actual ninja assassins. But with 23 rooms and 29 staircases, an impressive array of trapdoors and hidden rooms, and a sepukku (ritual suicide) chamber, it is easy to see why people would make that assumption. Visitors cannot enter the temple except through the tours, so call ahead to book a tour. The tour is conducted in Japanese, but they give travelers a folder with English translations. Local lore has it that there was an underground tunnel from the castle to the temple, to allow the Maeda lords an escape route in case of attack. However, no documentary proof of this has been found, and, like the ninjas, it merely adds to the myths of the place. Unfortunately, the staff have a well-deserved reputation (amongst Japanese and foreigners) for being rude and unhelpful. ¥1,200 for adults and ¥700 for primary school pupils, and you're supposed to make a reservation in advance, although they can usually squeeze you in if there's space and you don't mind waiting for your tour to begin. The hour-long tour is well worth the price. (updated Dec 2017)
• 🌍 Oyama Shrine (尾山神社) (on the other side of the castle). Built in the early Meiji period to honor the founding father of the Kaga Domain, Maeda Toshiie. It is notable for a unique gate with stained-glass windows that is a fusion of Japanese and Western architecture. The back gate to the shrine is also one of the few remaining parts of the original castle: a gate from the palace compound that escaped destruction when it was moved to the shrine. "Oyama" was the original name for the hill on which Kanazawa Castle was built. 
• 🌍 Tentoku-in (天徳院). The largest temple in Kanazawa during the Edo period, it stood at the eastern end of the city. It was built to house the spirit of Tama-hime (珠姫: the Princess Tama), the wife of Maeda Toshitsune (the third Maeda lord). She was born in 1599 as the granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, and the daughter of the second Shogun, Hidetada. It was a political marriage: the Tokugawa were worried about a possible attack from the powerful Maeda, historically supporters of the Toyotomi clan. Toshitsune sent his mother to Edo as a hostage, and in return received the Shogun's daughter in marriage. She was three years old at the time (though the actual marriage was carried out when she was 14), and her arrival in Kanazawa is commemorated each year in the Kaga Hyakumangoku Parade. She died at age 24. (updated Jan 2018)
• 🌍 Daijōji Temple (大乗寺). Daijōji Temple is an old and active Zen Buddhist Temple set away from traffic on a hillside. The temple in its current location dates from 1697. Old trees shade dense moss. There is a large bell hanging under the gate along the path which visitors may ring. Strikingly loud at first, the sound fades to accentuate the tranquillity. There are free early-early-morning pray-with-the-Zen-monks sessions for those so inclined, be prepared to join in with sweeping and cleaning afterwards. The whole place is extremely "wabi-sabi", spiritually mellow. 
• 🌍 Shinmeiguu Shrine (神明宮) (a few meters up from the Saigawa ōhashi bridge on the right hand side of the road). This shrine is famous for the more than 900-year-old Zelkova tree (keyaki) in its grounds. The shrine used to be on the banks of the Sai River, before land was reclaimed, and the tree was used as an anchor point for boats. Iron bars driven into the trunk so that boat hooks could be attached are still visible half-way up the tree. The rest of the grounds are used for parking and you will be kept at a safe distance from the tree by 3 fences: one bamboo, one steel and of course one made of concrete! 

• 🌍 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (金沢21世紀美術館), 1-2-1 Hirosaka, ☏ +81 76-220-2800. Exhibition Zone 10:00 - 18:00, Public Zone 09:00 - 22:00. Located across from Kenroku-en, this modern marvel offers a fascinating juxtaposition to the traditional splendour of Kanazawa. Even if you don't enter the permanent or temporary exhibitions, the building itself is worth a look and there are usually some free exhibits inside. Some of the permanent collection can be seen for free. These include pieces by Jan Fabvre (an impressive statute on the roof of the building), the famous "swimming pool" by Leandro Erlich in the main courtyard inside the building as well as playful pieces in the garden surrounding the museum. Don't miss the cafe! 
• 🌍 Kaga Honda Museum (本多の森 Honda-no-Mori), ☏ +81762610500. Near Kenrokuen is this pleasant green park-like area which houses the very interesting Prefectural Museum (housed in three long narrow pre-war army storehouses of brick), the Art Gallery, and a few other smaller museums, as well as the Prefectural Noh Hall and the National Defence Shrine (護国神社 Gokoku Jinja), a smaller regional version of the main Yasukuni Shrine in Tokyo. Just outside the shrine, which is built in the pure Japanese traditional style, is a tall pillar commemorating the dead of the "Great East Asia War" (Dai Tou-A Sensou: 大東亜戦争) that was the subject of considerable controversy when erected for its listing of groups that did not wish to be listed on a right-wing commemoration. It takes its name from the powerful Honda family, whose mansion once occupied this area in the Edo period. (updated Aug 2021)
• 🌍 Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts (石川県立伝統産業工芸館), 1-1 Kenroku-machi, ☏ +81 76 262-2020. Daily 09:00-17:00 (last entry at 16:30); closed Apr-Nov: 3rd Th of the month; Dec-Mar: Th, Year-end and New Year. A craft museum that displays 36 types of traditional arts and crafts cultivated by the people who lived in Ishikawa. The exhibits are grouped by type and well-displayed. ¥250, ¥200 for seniors, and ¥100 for children under 17. Group rates are available. 
• 🌍 Ishikawa Prefectural Museum (石川県立歴史博物館), ☏ +81 76-262-3236, fax: +81 76-262-1836. Entry ¥250 (more when special exhibitions are held). 09:00-17:00 (last entry at 16:30). Housed in three long brick buildings, restored armouries from the time when the area was used by the Imperial Japanese Army, it features a chronological display of local history in a modern and well-laid-out setting. There is also an area for hands-on history, where you can try on various outfits, including samurai armour. As with most tourist sites in Kanazawa, an English-language pamphlet is available. 
• 🌍 Ishikawa Museum of Modern Literature (石川近代文学館). 09:30-17:00 (last entry at 16:30). Housed in the Meiji-era brick building of the former Fourth High School (preparatory schools for the Imperial Universities), the fore-runner of Kanazawa University, it houses displays relating to famous local (generally) authors from the Meiji to pre-war period. Probably only of interest to students of Japanese literature rather than casual tourists, as many of the displays are original copies of books or manuscripts, written in Japanese. ¥400. 
• 🌍 Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art (石川県立美術館), 2-1 Dewa-machi, ☏ +81 76-231-7580, fax: +81 76-224-9550, ishibi@pref.ishikawa.lg.jp. 09:30―18:00 (last admission 17:30). This is a pleasant museum showcasing works by local artists hailing from Isihikawa prefecture. There are six galleries showing parts of the collection, which is rotated through the year. Many of the pieces come from the collection of the Maeda lords. The building provides nice views on the surrounding woods. ¥360. (updated Dec 2017)
• 🌍 D.T. Suzuki Museum (鈴木大拙館), 3-4-20 Honda-machi (the museum is not very easy to find; it is at the back of the Honda Forest; make sure to review the access instructions on the museum's website when planning your visit), ☏ +81 76-221-8011, daisetz@city.kanazawa.ishikawa.jp. 09:30-17:00. This small museum commemorates the life and works of Suzuki Daisetz Teitaro, a prominent Buddhist philosopher whose books were instrumental in spreading interest in Zen Buddhism in the West. The museum is organized around three areas: a first room exhibiting the writings and calligraphy of D.T. Suzuki, as well as pictures and explanations about his work and life; a second room where his books can be consulted and more can be learned about his writings. The third area is perhaps the most attractive part of the museum, as it is a contemplative space where visitors are invited to meditate and reflect while admiring the beautiful architecture and the surrounding woods. Even those not attracted to Buddhism or oriental philosophies may find the place worth a visit to enjoy the building's architecture. ¥300. (updated Dec 2017)

• Dai-Nana Gyōza (第七餃子) (opposite the Mori-no-Sato Jusco shopping center near the Kakuma Campus of Kanazawa University). A restaurant that specialises in gyoza. Counter seating as well as private rooms upstairs that are available for hire. The gyoza, known as "white gyoza", are famous in the region, and very unlike normal gyoza. Part of a small but insanely popular chain of "white gyoza" (named after the founder, a Chinese man named Hak (白), or "white". Ten gyoza are ¥360. Go early to get a seat - it's very popular with students and young salarymen. 
• Gyoza-no-Ōshō (餃子の王将), Katamachi (1 minute walk from the Scramble [part of a nationwide chain] and in other locations in Kanazawa). Serving cheap Chinese food in a brightly-lit and often smoky environment. Chinese dumpling (gyoza) are 6 for ¥180, large rice will set you back ¥200 and mains are in the ¥500-600 range. Look for the gaudy yellow, red and white sign near the bus stop. All Osho restaurants have a bilingual (English-Japanese) menu. 
• 8-Ban Ramen Hachi-ban ramen, founded in Ishikawa in 1971 has outlets scattered throughout Kanazawa including one near the Saigawa Bridge in Katamachi. Cheap, but not known for the quality of its ramen. In fact Kanazawa as a whole is not the place to go for good ramen.

• 🌍 Ōmichō market (Ōmichō-ichiba or 近江町市場), 5-0 Kamiomicho (a 15-minute walk from Kanazawa Station (or a one-bus stop ride)), ☏ +81 76-231-1462, info@ohmicho-ichiba.com. 09:30-17:00 (although some shops have longer hours). This is a relatively large covered market housing many shops and stalls selling fish, vegetables, fruits and meat. According to its website, it has been Kanazawa's largest fresh food market since the Edo Period. The market also houses many restaurants (both on the ground floor and on the first floor) and small colourful eateries where one can eat fresh local seafood, including specialties such as crab, Noto Peninsula oysters and other shellfish. There are also several sushi restaurants and one kaiten sushi place (where sushi are presented on a conveyor belt). There are many tourists, but this remains an active market where locals shop for food and other household items (such as clothing, kitchen utensils and flowers). There is a large pharmacy in the basement. 
• Sakanaya (魚菜屋), Hyakumangai (shopping annex of the JR station). Counter seating only, this little joint is always packed with locals looking for a quick serve of cheap seafood. Try the kaisen tonkomori-don (海鮮とんこ盛丼, ¥980), a bowl of rice topped with all sorts of raw seafood goodies. 
• Skylark Family Restaurant, a few minutes walk from the station between a car dealership and Toyoko Inn Hotel. Cheap and cheerful Western style food as well as Japanese dishes. Ask for the drink bar option to get unlimited access to the buffet style hot/cold soft drinks for only a couple of hundred yen. There are many other "family restaurant" style places in Kanazawa, from Big Boy to Joyful, though most are out in the suburbs.
• 🌍 Choi Nomi Dining Taka (ちょい呑みダイニング貴), 11-40 Yasuecho (Head towards Kanazawa Station; from Omicho market, take the underground path towards the appropriate exit.), ☏ +819037682187. Daily 14:00-23:30. An excellent and affordable Izakaya restaurant run and owned by a former sumo wrestler. Enjoy local sakes, along with a range of Japanese dishes, including a specialty dish, "Nodoguro ramen", which features a Blackthroat Seaperch fish, as well as menma (boiled bamboo) pieces, and half an egg. English menus are available, however pricing and the amount of food you get seems to contradict what's on the Japanese menu, with some of the entries; try to fake your way through it, if you want the full experience! ¥300-1000. (updated Feb 2023)

Right next to Kanazawa Station is a new shopping complex called Forus. The 6th floor is dedicated to restaurants and has a very good conveyor style sushi restaurant. No English is spoken but they do have a picture menu and all tables have an electronic menu device. Be aware that if you do not finish all of your food, the Forus restaurants will not give you a box to take your leftovers! Other options include Chinese; Indonesian; Italian and Korean restaurants. Nearly all restaurants have a lunch special in the ¥1000 range.

• Chochinya (鳥珍や), 2-31-32, Katamachi, ☏ +81 76 223-8422. 17:00-02:00. Well worth a visit to try the fantastic tebasaki (crispy chicken wings), order at least 3 per person! The young owners speak limited English but have an English menu available. They have over 20 brands of shochu to chose from and a selection of local sake. There is a charge of ¥262 for the small appetizer you will be served when you sit down. Always packed out at the weekends. 
• The Cottage, 2-8-16 Katamachi, ☏ +81 76 262-3277. Run by the very friendly Tony and Momo. Serving up homestyle cooking with plenty of conversation thrown in. A cozy restaurant popular with resident foreigners and tourists. 
• Hacchouya (八兆屋), Katamachi (Its halfway between the "Scramble" and "Kohrinbo", on the left-side of the street as you head from the Scramble towards Kohrinbo, the entry is hard to spot because you have to head down a set of stairs from street level (its underground)). The best way to describe this place is a "refined" izakaya. The fare here is a modern twist on izakaya food. The quality of the food is unbelievable for the price. It has sunken seating by the open kitchen or private tatami style rooms and very cosy. Not much English is spoken but you manage to get your message across. Be adventurous, point to the menu and you can't go wrong. Staff are very friendly and efficient. 
• Hirosaka-Tei (ヒロサカ亭), 2-31-32, Katamachi (Located a few doors down and across the road from The Spice Box), ☏ +81 76 223-8422. 17:30-23:30. Rustic style izakaya with an open kitchen, there is an emphasis on local seafood so the tempura selection (¥1,300) and sashimi of the day platter (¥1,500) are good choices to begin with. The homemade ginger ale has quite a kick and goes well with the fish dishes. Japanese menu but English is spoken by the owner. 
• Le Mars (ルマルス), Kohrinbo, fax: +81 76-262-5343. 11:30-14:00 & 18:00-22:30, closed W. Husband and wife team serving up tasty Belgian inspired food in a relaxed atmosphere. Good range of European beers available. Tucked away down a side street near the Excel Hotel. 
• MoriMoriZushi (もりもり寿し), Forus 6F (right outside Kanazawa stn), ☏ +81 76 265-3510. Excellent sushi starting at ¥120 per plate. The salmon is divine and they even do a meat lovers' hamburger nigiri! The house special is the "three-point plate" (三点盛り) which gets you three different seasonal delicacies for ¥598. You can sit at the counter or for more elbow room ask for a table. No smoking throughout. There is a newly opened branch in Omicho market. 
• Osteria Albero, Katamachi, ☏ +81 76 236-1580. open 18:00-24:00. Serving up great Italian food in a quiet corner of town. The pasta is handmade while you wait (around ¥1500 per dish) and the focaccia is superb and a bargain at ¥250. Menu in Japanese and Italian. 
• Pilsen (ぴるぜん), Katamachi, ☏ +81 76 221-0688. Closed Su. Opened in 1968, this German beer hall style restaurant is well known in Kanazawa. There is a long counter downstairs and more intimate table seating upstairs. Limited English is spoken but they are used to foreign customers and have an English food menu. Drinks from ¥600 main dishes start around ¥800. 
• Spice Box, 2-30-8, Katamachi, ☏ +81 76 234-3313. M-Sa 18:30-03:00, Su 18:00-23:59. The only authentic Indian and Sri Lankan restaurant downtown. Based on the tapas concept dishes start at ¥300. Vegetarian options are available along with an English menu. Ask the ever smiling manager if you have special requests. No credit cards accepted. 
• Sushi Ippei (鮨一平), 1-5-29, Katamachi, ☏ +81 76 261-8674. 18:00-01:00, closed Su and national holidays. Tucked down a side street this family run restaurant offers the chance to try authentic sushi without breaking the bank. Prices start at ¥100, expect to pay around ¥3000 for a good feed. English menu and limited English spoken by the beaming kimono-clad okamisan. 
• Yama-boshi (山ぼうし), Ro 86, Fukuroitayamachi (Off Route 10, on your way to Yuwaku onset), ☏ +81 76 229-0644. 11:30-14:45, closed W Th. Stop for soba after a visit to Yuwaku onsen in this traditional Japanese-style house. ¥800 and up. 
• 🌍 Coil (金沢手巻き寿司 COIL（コイル）), 1−1 かなざわはこまち ２F (On the 2nd floor of Kanazawa Hakomachi. Go to the main entrance facing the Omicho Market 3 way intersection. Go up the escalator, turn immediately right, you'll see large glass windows showing the tea ceremony room.), ☏ +81762565076. Daily 11:00-21:30. Fancy, modernistic temaki (sushi hand roll) restaurant, with a DIY attitude. Pick your desired fillings, follow your own tea making ceremony, and roll your own sushi to your liking! Has vegan/vegetarian friendly options, as well as English menus. ¥1500-2000. (updated Feb 2023)

• Takeshi (たけし), Saigawa, Katamachi, ☏ +81 76 234-2121 (Japanese only). 17:00-23:00, closed Su. Modern Japanese cuisine in stylish surroundings. The color yellow is a major theme and even the chef's phone is yellow! Courses start at ¥5250 per person for 8 dishes, not including drinks. Reservations essential. 
• Tsubajin (つば甚), Teramachi, ☏ +81 76 241-2181 (Japanese only). Open for lunch and dinner, reservations required. Founded in 1752, and the première Japanese dining experience in Kanazawa, Tsubajin has hosted daimyo, members of the Imperial Family, government ministers, and others who can afford the hospitality of this 250-year-old ryotei - dinners start at ¥20,000 and rise into the upper stratosphere. A mere ¥9,000 will allow you to taste their lunch set menu. The current building dates from the early Taisho period (1912-1925), and is designed in the finest Kanazawa style. 
• Ume No Hana (梅の花), 1-101 Tomizu-machi, ☏ +81 76 237-4188 (Japanese only). 11:00-14:30 & 17:00-21:00 daily. For a true Japanese dining experience that is hard to beat this place will make even ex-pat lifers in Japan misty eyed. Beautiful landscaped gardens; immaculate tatami rooms with each room having themed pottery; a mind bending array of tofu dishes and phenomenal service. Kaiseki lunches start at ¥1,500 while dinner starts at ¥3,500 per person. Allow plenty of time to savour the experience as dish after dish will be brought to you. A nice discrete touch is that instead of a check you will be given a keyring to handover when you leave. Ensuring only the bill payer sees the total! Reservations essential even at lunch time. Away from the main sights so a taxi is the easiest way to get there. You will never look at tofu in the same way again! 
• 🌍 Kinjohro (金城楼), 2-23 Hashiba-cho, ☏ +81 76-221-8188, fax: +81 76-224-9146. 11:00-21:00. A good ryotei which uses seasonal local ingredients, with dining rooms in traditional Japanese architecture. Reservations recommended. Expensive, but cheaper than similar establishments in Tokyo and Kyoto. ¥10,000. (updated Nov 2015)

• Guest House Pongyi (ゲストハウスポンギー), 2-22 Rokumai-machi, ☏ +81 76 225-7369, mail@pongyi.com. This small guesthouse opened in 2009 in a traditional Japanese house. Adjacent to one of the picturesque canals. The owner is friendly and extremely helpful and speaks very good English and some Spanish and Portuguese. Very clean and comfortable rooms with new bedding. Kitchen, fridge and free tea and coffee available for guests. Free internet and computer (Wi-Fi, Desktop PC). Dorm beds (4 beds per dorm, separate male and female) ¥2700. Private room for up to 2 persons ¥6000 per room (¥3000). Private room for 3 persons ¥8,000 (total). 
• Kikunoya Ryokan (きくのや旅館), 1-1-27, Hirosaka, ☏ +81 76 231-3547, kikunoyaryokan@ybb.ne.jp. Kikunoya Ryokan is the 1960s good old time Japanese-style inn. Also Kikunoya Ryokan is surrounded by the famous and popular local cuisine restaurants and bars. 1 person ¥4680, 2 person ¥8960. All rooms tatami mat. TV in room, a/c, refrigerator, towels, Yukata, tea set, Wi-Fi in room. Facilities: Internet Connected PC (a printer, Skype & Headset, Wi-Fi) all free. Bicycle rental ¥500/day. Cable TV in dining room, Hair Dryer. 
• Ryokan Shibaya (旅館しばや), 2-19-7 Hon-machi, ☏ +81 76 222-3270, info@ryokanshibaya.com. The best thing about this traditional Japanese inn is the bath in the basement. A piping hot, onsen sized affair with bubbling jets that guests can reserve for private use. Only a short walk from the station, it has a peaceful atmosphere, free green tea vending machines in the hallways and big bright rooms (western style or tatami available). Unfortunately, you may have to ask your hosts to turn on the hot water system if you fancy a morning shower. The owners are extremely friendly and helpful but their English is limited. From ¥2800-5400/person (Western or tatami), breakfast ¥800 extra. 
• 🌍 Murataya Ryokan (村田屋旅館), 1-5-2, Katamachi (around the corner from the Katamachi bus stop), ☏ +81 76 263-0455, info@murataya-ryokan.com. Small traditional inn runs has 11 Japanese style tatami rooms with common toilet and bath facilities. The staff speak good English and are incredibly helpful. Wi-Fi is available, as well as a PC downstairs. Breakfast can be had with a prior reservation. Rates are from ¥4500-5000 per person, with 1-, 2- and 3-person rooms available. Credit cards are accepted.. 
• 🌍 Ryokan Yamamuro (旅館 やまむろ), 1-2-19, Owaricho (in center of town on far side of Oumi-Chuo Market; an 18-minute walk there from Kanazawa Station east exit, but is uphill; or taxi or bus (11, 12, 16) to Owaricho stop then 2-minute walk), ☏ +81 76 263-7121. Ryokan Yamamuro has been in business since 1897 in the center of Kanazawa. This inn is modern ferro-concrete structure. Many major tourist and cultural attractions such as Kenrokuen Garden, Kanazawa Castle Park, 21st Century Museum, Omi-cho Market, Higashi Chaya District, Oyama Jinja Shrine are within walking distance. All rooms are Japanese style with shared toilet. Some rooms are up steep stairs. Wi3 Wifi access point on premises, laptop in lobby available for guest use. 1 person ¥5,300, 2 persons ¥10,000 3 persons ¥14,500. 
• Guesthouse Ochakare (おちゃかれ), 1-8-12 Kitayasue. Nice atmosphere, friendly and helpful staff. 
• 🌍 Shaq Bighouse, Takaokacho 7-30, ☏ +81 90-9445-7851. A friendly hostel with international guests. Well equipped kitchen and a bar at the ground floor. Rooms with dorm beds, as well as Japanese style double rooms with shared bathroom. Very thin walls! ¥2,800 (1 person), ¥6,200 (double room). (updated Apr 2015)
• 🌍 Hotel Pacific (ホテルパシフィック金沢), 46 Jikkenmachi (enter Omicho market from the bus stop area, walk straight through until you exit the other side, take the first right, then right again), ☏ +81762643201, info@hotel-pacific.jp. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Modern, stylish hotel with in-suite bathrooms and on-site laundry machine. Literally next door to the Omicho market area, as well as a short walk to the Kanazawa Castle grounds. Nearby trendy restaurants, Kanazawa M'Za department store, and a 15-20 minute walk from Kanazawa Station. Affordably priced rooms, and very friendly staff (many of whom speak excellent English). ¥4800-6000/night, single double bed room with bathroom. (updated Feb 2023)

• 🌍 Daiwa Roynet Hotel, Kanazawa Station area (1 minute walk from the East Exit, opposite Forus), ☏ +81 76 224-7755. Brand new, with elegantly designed rooms. Professional staff. Internet in the rooms, and at internet terminals in the lobby. 
• 🌍 Dormy Inn Kanazawa (ドーミーイン金沢), Kanazawa Station area (1 minute walk from the East Exit, opposite Forus), ☏ +81 76 263-9888. Opened in 2006. Singles for ¥8500 and Twin rooms for ¥15,000, with onsen-style bathing on the 14th floor to relax those travel weary muscles. Free internet in the lobby. Special rates available, inquire at the Tourist Information office inside the station. 
• Garden Hotel Kanazawa (ガーデンホテル金沢), 2-16-16, Hon-machi, Kanazawa Station area (2 minutes walk from the East Exit), ☏ +81 76 263-3333. Friendly and helpful staffs. A very convenient hotel for sightseeing and business in Kanazawa. Free PCs in the lobby, as well as wireless LAN available in rooms. Single rooms for ¥5000. Twin and Double rooms for ¥10,000 (¥5000 each) Breakfast ¥1050 extra. 
• Toyoko-Inn Hotel, Kohrinbo. Business style hotel - free breakfast included. Professional staff. Free internet connection for every room and free Wi-Fi service (at foyer) available. Very convenient and affordable! Clean and neat as a pin. 
• 🌍 Kumu (The Share Hotels Kumu), 2-40 Ueijekicho-cho (just across the second bus stop from the main Kanazawa Station), ☏ +81 76 282 9600, kumu@thesharehotels.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Part of a new trendy chain, this is a very comfortable modern hotel that provides well-designed rooms, from "bunks" all the way to apartments. All of the rooms are designed to be shared by more than two people. Prices generally start from ¥8,500 per person per night. Location is also quite convenient: the castle grounds, the Omicho market and the Oyama shrine are all within walking distance. There are bus stops almost in front of the hotel. The hotel also rents bicycles. ¥8,500. (updated Dec 2017)

• 🌍 Hotel Nikko Kanazawa (ホテル日航金沢), 2-15-1 Hon-machi (3 minutes walk from JR Kanazawa Stn E Exit), ☏ +81 76-234-1111. One of Kanazawa's most distinctive landmarks and at 130 m the tallest hotel on the Japan Sea side of the country. Standard singles are ¥16,747 while doubles cost ¥28,875. Deluxe Twin Standard rooms are ¥57,750. The Nikko Floor consists of the 26th and 27th floors and rooms on these levels go for several thousand yen more. At the top end of the price range is the Imperial Suite at a whopping ¥288,750 per night.