Kangaroo Island

Kangaroo Island was separated from the mainland around 10,000 years ago. The first European to explore Kangaroo Island by Matthew Flinders in 1802 whilst en route from UK to Sydney. He named the island in honour of the feast of Kangaroo he and his crew enjoyed on the island. More extensive mapping (especially of the south coast) was done by the French explorer Nicolas Baudin which is why a number of geographical features have French names.

While there is evidence of Aboriginal people living on the island as long as 16,000 years ago, the island has not been inhabited by Aboriginal people for at least 2,000 years. From 1803 the island was visited by sealers and whalers, exploiting the natural resources of the island. In addition, a number of "independent" settlers arrived - thought to be mainly escaped convicts and those looking for a lifestyle unencumbered by regulation - took up residence between 1803 and the start of official settlement in 1836.

In 1836 Kingscote became the first settlement in South Australia and significant parts of the island were opened up for farming. Sealing had just about finished by this time, and seals on many of the islands beaches had been completely wiped out.

From the late 1800s parts of the island were being actively preserved. Flinders Chase National Park was proclaimed in 1912. During the 1920s the island was seen as an opportunity to preserve species that were threatened on mainland Australia, with attempts at introducing several, including koalas.

The island is 160 km wide (east to west) and around 50 km from top to bottom at its widest. The north of the island has more protected seas, with the south generally having larger waves, higher cliffs and stronger currents. There are still some white sandy beaches and inlets on the south, though, such as Pennington Bay, d'Estrees Bay, Bales Bay and Hanson Bay.

The main settlements are within an hour of each other on the east. There are more remote areas in the west.

The cliffs and bays can be spectacular, and there are interesting geological formations along the south, the most popular to visit being Admirals Arch and the Remarkable Rocks.

Kangaroo Island has abundant wildlife and large sections of untouched forest. Many species for which Australia is famous for can be found here like kangaroos, wallabies, koalas, echidnas and penguins. There are plenty of opportunities to see these animals close up in their natural habitat.

The Gateway Visitor Information Centre in Penneshaw can provide maps, brochures, tour times, costs and can help to make bookings.

There are four significant settlements on Kangaroo Island:

• 🌍 Kingscote is the biggest town on the island, around 60 km or just under an hour's drive from Penneshaw. It has a small shopping strip downtown, which in addition to a supermarket has a choice of cafes, a bookshop, choice of restaurants, pubs, and a couple of other stores to browse. You can get fuel here. There is a harbour, and some history to be discovered particularly at Reeves Point a few hundred metres north of the main town. The sole airport on the island is also at Kingscote.
• 🌍 Penneshaw is at the east of the island. This is the place where the ferries arrive. Again, there is a supermarket, pub with food and a view, a pizza place, and a couple of other food choices. It has a more attractive cliff-side setting than Kingscote. Fuel is available and banking can be done at the Post Office.
• 🌍 Parndana is in the centre of the island and serving the farming community. There is a small supermarket here too as well as a hotel and fuel outlet.
• 🌍 American River is a small community between Kingscote and Penneshaw. There is a general store which sells most everyday items including fuel (not LPG) and liquor as well as a Post Office and some restaurants.

Some of the accommodation is on the bays on the south coast of the island.

Ferries operated by Sealink travel between Cape Jervis on the mainland, and Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island. Ferries carry cars and passengers. They have a small cafe and bar on board, selling snacks and small meals during the trip. There is also a cafe at the Cape Jervis end, selling a similar range, which is open for departures but not necessarily for late arrivals.

Standby travel is often not available for cars, especially on the popular afternoon evening services. You really need to book ahead even in the off-season.

For a short trip, it can get quite rough. The route goes from peninsula to peninsula, and doesn't spend any time in a protected area. Seasickness is experienced by some on the trip, so some preventative medication may be a good idea. Sit at the back of the vessel for the best ride!

Two daily coach connections are available from Adelaide to connect with the ferry at Cape Jervis. Consult the Sealink website for costs.

• Kangaroo Island Sealink, 440 King William Street, Adelaide, ☏ +61 13 13 01, +61 8 8202 8688. Ferries depart from Cape Jervis frequently. For the complete timetable visit www.sealink.com.au. It is necessary to book in advance. $88/$44 each way. 

Coach connections are available from Penneshaw to American River and Kingscote after the arrival of the 9AM and 6PM departures from Cape Jervis; and to the 8:30AM and 7:30PM departures from Penneshaw.

There are ferry services to Kangaroo Island that have no coach connection to Adelaide and there is no other public transport available to Cape Jervis. That is you cannot drop a rental car there, there are no public buses, and the closest point with a public transport connection you could get a taxi from is 60 km away. Apart from the cafe at the ferry wharf, there are no facilities at Cape Jervis. If you aren't driving yourself, make sure you book the coach connections with the ferry.

Most car rental companies do not allow you to take the car onto the ferry to Kangaroo Island. Rental cars are available at the ferry terminal in Penneshaw, so consider dropping off your rental car in Adelaide, then taking the coach to Cape Jervis to connect with the ferry.

If you are not taking a car with you, air fares can be competitive with coach and ferry fares from Adelaide.

• 🌍 Kingscote Airport (KGC  ^IATA). (updated Aug 2019)
  • Regional Express (Rex), ☏ 13 17 13 (in country only), +61 8 8553 9100. Regional Express operates 35 minute flights from Adelaide. Flights can sometimes be cancelled, call to confirm flight details. 

Make sure you have plenty of fuel before you start your trip. Petrol stations are generally only in the main settlements and frequently close before 6PM. In the south and west, petrol is only available at Vivonne Bay and Wilderness Retreat near Flinders Chase. Most roads are good, there is little need for a 4WD. Petrol is more expensive than on the mainland.

You can hire a car from the airport, the ferry wharf, or in Kingscote. There are two operators:

• Budget Kangaroo Island, ☏ +61 8 8553 3133, +61 418 839 057 (mobile). 
• Hertz, ☏ +61 8 85533133. 

Some rental operators on the mainland do not allow cars to be taken onto the island. Avis do not, Budget and Europcar do - check with your preferred operator. In the cases where the operator allows them to be taken, they may not provide insurance while on the ferry. As always, consider the risk and insurance, against the cost and convenience.

Book ahead if you are renting a car on the island. The consequences of them being sold out when you arrive are that you don't go anywhere.

It is important to clarify insurance arrangements when hiring a car as Hertz and Budget have more complicated systems on the island than on the mainland. This is due to a high number of collisions with animals, in particular during the late afternoon, evening, and early morning. Again, consider travel insurance to overcome the limitations of the rental car policy. It is generally cheaper anyway.

There is a bus operated twice daily in either direction by Peninsula Coaches between Kingscote, American River and Penneshaw. Booking is necessary. One way fares cost $21 for adults, $10.50 concession/children.

An airport shuttle operated by KI Transfers meets all daily flights from Kingscote Airport and can arrange transfers to anywhere on the Island.

Bicycle rental and bicycle tours are available on Kangaroo Island. Bike rental is available when you get there. However, it is not a feasible way of traversing the island east–west – the speed limit on both highways is 110 km/h with no shoulder, and it requires a lot of effort to travel 150 km one way.

Most tours run between 1 and 3 days and operate from Adelaide. If you make your own way to the island you can normally join a tour group at a reduced cost.

There are the "adventure" tour style, and the more traditional style tours stopping at the produce providers and major island sites on a fairly fixed itinerary. It is even possible to do a day tour from Adelaide (very tiring and you don't get to see the nocturnal animals).

Extended backpacker style tours of 2-3 days combine camping, budget accommodation, adventure and wildlife viewing, some even offer surfing.

• Lost In Australia, ☏ +61 8 6102 0776, info@lostinaustralia.com.au. Adventure, small groups, safaris. Locally owned and operated, full day and overnight tours. 

There are two transfer companies on Kangaroo Island, they can arrange for you to be transferred to anywhere on the island

• KI Transfers. 
• Smart Car. 

See also: Australasian wildlife

You will see wildlife on Kangaroo Island, both in the national parks and reserves, and just in the farmland surrounding the roads. Most wildlife are most active at dawn and dusk. Unfortunately, visitors will also come across wildlife as roadkill all over the island.

• Koalas - Were introduced onto the island in the 1920s, as a (possibly misguided) way of preserving a species that was considered threatened on the mainland. The population thrived on the island, to the extent that they have been causing ecological damage on the island. They used to be common in Flinders Chase National Park, but since the 2007 bushfires, they are being caught and removed to the mainland, to allow the area to regenerate. There are still plenty elsewhere on the island, but they are often difficult to spot. You can still see them if you are lucky around Vivonne Bay and elsewhere. There is a free 20-minute walk close to the campsite; or visit the Koala Walk on the main south coast road near Flinders Chase entry. Try your luck.

• Echidnas are very common on the island although they can be difficult to find. You can usually see a couple in the wild near the visitors centre at Flinders Chase, if you manage to avoid them on the roads on the way there.

• Wallaby and kangaroo. Kangaroos on the island are a sub-species of the Western Grey Kangaroo found on the mainland but are smaller, darker and have rougher fur. All wallabies are of species Tammar Wallaby. Stay alert when driving, especially around after dark as some of the Kangaroos are of a fair size and you don't want to see them too closely. You should have no problems viewing these next to the roads if you keep a look out. American River after dark (especially around the hall on Ryberg Road) is a good place to see wallabies.
• Platypus. Another introduced species to KI. There is a platypus walk going to a viewing area about an hour's walk from the Flinders Chase Visitors centre. Dawn or dusk are the best times, and patience and a certain sense of fate is always necessary for platypus watching.
• Penguins. There are guided evening tours at Penneshaw, and the paths near to the penguin parades are closed at dusk except to guided tours. Still, you could get the idea with binoculars from behind the fence line. Penguins are only to be seen on shore after dark.

• 🌍 Penneshaw Penguin Centre, Lloyd Collins Reserve, Penneshaw, ☏ +61 8 8553 1103. Guided tour to see the penguins in Penneshaw. Tours start at 6:30PM and 7:30PM in winter, an hour later during daylight saving. (updated Apr 2020)

• New Zealand fur seals. Hang out under Admirals Arch in Flinders Chase National Park. Steps and cliff walks get you quite close to their habitat, and their antics should keep you amused for quite a while. Better value than Seal Bay.
• 🌍 Seal Bay Conservation Park, Seal Bay Rd, Seal Bay. Daily 9AM-5PM except Christmas. Australian sea lions are at Seal Bay Conservation Park. Located in the south of the island, this park gives you the opportunity to see wild Australian sea lions resting on the beach before returning for feeding in the sea. You can take an unguided walk along the boardwalk and to the lookout at any time. The beach is only accessible with guided tours. Entry fee is $12.50/$8.00 for access to the boardwalk and lookout only, or $27.50/$16.50 including the beach tour. Discounts for students, seniors and groups. 
• Birdwatching:

• 🌍 Murrays Lagoon: Bald Hill walk and Timber Creek walk offer ½-1 hour walks to see the birdlife of the lagoon.
• 🌍 American River: the rare glossy black cockatoo can be seen mainly at the north end of town on Scenic Drive, Ryberg Road and Falie Court. There is a bird hide behind the CFS Shed at the junction of Scenic Drive and Tangara Drive - water birds are common here.
• 🌍 Duck Lagoon: best in winter when the lagoon is nice and full.

• Pelican feeding occurs everyday at 5PM just behind the KI Marine Centre. It's a good place to hang out just before the Marine Centre opens. There is no charge but donations are appreciated.

• 🌍 Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park (Parndana Wildlife Park), 4068 Playford Hwy (2 km west of Parndana). If luck isn't going your way, and you don't want to leave the island without seeing the wildlife, try Parndana Wildlife Park. You'll be able to walk amongst the animals and have the kangaroos crowd around you while you feed them. (updated Apr 2020)
• 🌍 Southern Kangaroo Island Marine Park. An Australian marine park home to many sea lions, for those wanting to see them. The park is comanaged by Parks Australia and the National Parks and Wildlife Services South Australia. (updated Feb 2022)

• 🌍 Remarkable Rocks (in Flinders Chase National Park). True to their name, the rocks have remarkable formations. You can climb under them, over them and around them, and they really are interesting. The formation is around 500 m from the carpark, and is wheelchair accessible. Don't let the kids run ahead, as the formation is on the edge of a lichen-covered cliff, which gets steep deceptively quickly. 
• 🌍 Kelly Hill Caves (in Kelly Hill Conservation Park). Daily 10AM-5PM. A nice set of caves. Probably nothing here of particular interest if you have visited limestone caves in the past. $12.50/$7.50 for showcave tour. 
• 🌍 Admirals Arch (in Flinders Chase National Park). A dramatic natural rock arch. Views back to the Remarkable Rocks. 

There are three lighthouses on KI, of which two are open for inspection (you can go to the top, and outside). The one that isn't open, unfortunately, is the one that has the original interiors left untouched. The two open ones have had the wooden steps replaced with modern steel and concrete. The tours of the lighthouses are included in the National Parks combined ticket.

• 🌍 Cape Willoughby Lighthouse, Cape Willoughby Rd (30-minute drive from Penneshaw). You can walk around the lighthouse area for a small fee, or go to the top, and get a tour with the history of the site for a little more. They have a Chance Bros, Class 1 glass on display in one of rooms below. The area is exposed, and usually very windy. The open air view at the top is bracing. 
• 🌍 Cape du Couedic Lighthouse, near Admirals Arch, at the end of the Cape du Couedic Road. You can just see it from the outside, and you certainly won't miss it when you are visiting the fur seals at Admirals Arch. A short walk from the lighthouse you can see the remains of storerooms and a flying fox used to get stores up to the lighthouse - when they were delivered every three months. 
• 🌍 Cape Borda Lighthouse. Also runs tours, but probably doesn't see as many visitors as Cape Willoughby, due to a more remote location. It is of a different shape and style to the other two. 

• 🌍 Prospect Hill (also known as Mt Thisby) (on Hog Bay Road, at the narrow stretch of land that links the two halves of the island, about 20 minutes west of Penneshaw). Matthew Flinders first ascended the peak, and it will take about 10 minutes to climb if you are of reasonable fitness. Steps the whole way, and a 360-degree view from the top. Whilst you're here, don't miss Pennington Bay. (updated Apr 2020)

• 🌍 Reeves Point (a 2-minute drive or 15-minute walk from downtown Kingscote). The site of the first settlement in South Australia. The lookout is nice, and there is a mulberry tree first planted as part of a farm here during early settlement. Other interpretive signs pointing out the history of the area, and where things were. You will need a good imagination to bring it back to life though. Nice view over Kingscote. (updated Apr 2020)
• 🌍 Weirs Lookout, Weirs Cove Track, Flinders Chase, ☏ +61 8 8553 4470. 24/7. Free. (updated Jul 2021)
• 🌍 Bunker Hill Lookout, Cape Du Couedic Rd, Flinders Chase. 24/7. Not a significant lookout of any kind, but has some stunning views of the beach, the nature and the sea from a hilly perspective. Free. (updated Jul 2021)
• 🌍 Penneshaw Lookout, 5014 Hog Bay Rd, Dudley East. 24/7. Nice green rolling plains by the ocean. Free. (updated Jul 2021)
• 🌍 Pelican Lagoon Lookout, 3201 Hog Bay Rd, Pelican Lagoon. 24/7. Free. (updated Jul 2021)

• Penneshaw Maritime and Folk Museum, Howard Dr, Penneshaw, ☏ +61 8 8553 1065. Historic art museum. (updated Jul 2021)

There are council-run campgrounds at Vivionne Bay and American River. Both campgrounds offer powered and unpowered sites.

• 🌍 Southern Ocean Lodge, Hanson Bay, ☏ +61 2 9918 4355. A splurge destination! For very special occasions. Sits along the coastline with great views. Huge communal dining, drinking and relaxing area. There's a spa retreat. 

• 🌍 Aquamarine, Collins Crescent, Baudin Beach (Located only 10 km West from the Penneshaw ferry terminal.), ☏ +61 8 8553 9007. A spacious and private self contained cottage with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and all modern conveniences. It is located right next to a safe swimming beach and you can watch kangaroos and parrots from the back verandah. Price ranges from $140 to $240 per night for up to 7 people, with discounts for longer stays. 

• 🌍 Central Backpackers (formerly KI Dragonfly Guesthouse), Murray St, ☏ +61 8 8553 2787. Clean hostel with a friendly atmosphere, only three minutes walk to penguin colony, beach and pelican feeding. Offers a communal kitchen and a communal lounge. Doubles are around $60, dorm rooms are available. 
• 🌍 Kangaroo Island Seaview Motel, Chapman Terrace, ☏ +61 8 8553 2030. Offers a wide range on available room types. Guestrooms start at $75, oceanview units at $135, suites and apartments are around $155.. 
• 🌍 Queenscliffe Family Hotel, 57 Dauncey Street, ☏ +61 8 8553 2254. 
• 🌍 Aurora Ozone - Kangaroo Island Hotel, The Foreshore, Kingscote, ☏ +61 8 8553 2011. Located on the beautiful foreshore at Kingscote. Online booking at the website.