Heraklion

Heraklion (Greek: Ηράκλειον, Irákleio) or Iraklio is the major city and capital of Crete, the largest of the Greek islands. Its archaeological museum holds the remains of the 4000-year-old Minoan civilization, which centred on the nearby palace of Knossos, with its Minotaur legend. The city has several Venetian and Byzantine churches and the biggest in East Mediterranean well-preserved Venetian wall and harbour fortress from the 15th century.

Understand
Heraklion
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Around 1880, the Greek Kalokairinos, and later in 1900, the British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans began excavating a site just south of the city, thinking to find remains of ancient culture maybe Mycenean. He quickly discovered a much older, more powerful civilisation, which he called “Minoan” after the Minotaur legend. 4000 to 3000 years ago, Crete dominated the east Mediterranean from this site, Knossos. These discoveries changed our ideas of the ancient world – and Crete's modern fame and tourist industry were born.

Heraklion (also transcribed as Herakleion, Iraklio, Irakleion) has been much fought-over down the centuries. From 1204 it was held by the Venetians, who built a great wall around the city, and a harbour fort, to defend against the Ottoman Turks. But the Ottomans won in 1669 and held the island until 1898 when their empire was crumbling. Crete for a time was independent, then was incorporated into Greece in 1913.

Modern air transport brought huge numbers of tourists, mostly heading to resorts further along the coast, and the city sprawled out way beyond its historic centre – the population is now some 211,000 (2011). Many developments were ugly and ill-planned. Then came recession, and turmoil in the Greek economy. Heraklion today is an interesting city with a pedestrianized center and a lovely coastal promenade.

Like the rest of Crete, Heraklion has a Mediterranean climate. Summers are hot and dry with clear skies, but often with stiff breezes to relieve the heat. Winters are mild with little rain and rare frosts.

Get in

By plane
  • 🌍 Heraklion International Airport (HER  IATA). Has frequent flights from Athens and Thessaloniki, the main carriers being Olympic Air and Aegean Airlines. Heraklion is the base for Sky Express, which flies from several Aegean islands. There are no flights within Crete, e.g. Heraklion to Chania. Easyjet has regular flights to Heraklion from several UK and German cities, and from Milan. From April to November charter airlines fly in from many European airports.  Flat priced taxi service from the airport to downtown Heraklion is available for €18 (April 2024). Public bus service is also available.

By boat

The principal ferry route is from Piraeus, the port for Athens. These ferries mostly sail overnight, leaving in each direction around 21:00 to dock next morning at 06:00. The Heraklion ferry terminal is near the KTEL bus station just east of town centre. The operators are Minoan Lines, Anek Lines and Superfast Ferries

Other routes are:

Most ferries take vehicles and run year-round – trucking is an important part of their business, especially since so many people nowadays fly. But frequency is much reduced in winter, so for island-hopping you may find you have to double back via Piraeus.

By road

See below under “Get around”.

Get around

By bus

Heraklion is connected with the rest of Crete by regular bus lines operated by two KTEL companies for Western and Eastern Crete. The coaches are modern, comfortable and air-conditioned. Fares are reasonable. The main inter-city buses run hourly.

There is only one bus station for all inter-city buses in Heraklion:

  • 🌍 Bus station (just east of city walls near the ferry port (close to the old bus station A)), ☏ +30 2810-246532. 

In and around Heraklion, use the public city buses. For trip planning, route, schedule and stop information use Herakleio City Bus app. Or check bus itineraries and departure times at https://astiko-irakleiou.gr/en/itineraries.

The main bus stops have routes and schedules posted, LCD displays for the next buses, and ticket machines, which are cheaper than buying onboard the bus (which costs €2 Zone A, or €2.50 Zone B). Small stops may have none of these, so consider buying two tickets, keeping one for your return. At bus stops, signal the driver by raising your arm. Orange ticket (A zone whole, B zone students) costs €1.20, blue ticket (B zone whole) costs €1.70, all tickets have a QR code, directing to Astiko KTEL website. There are two free circular "Citybus" lines in the city centre which run from 07:00 until 22:40.

When you get on the bus, hold the bottom half of your ticket in your right hand. The driver will take the top half (side with ticket price) and the two of you will rip it in half. Tickets are available inside buses but cost more ().

  • Line 1 goes to the airport
  • Line 2 goes to Knossos
  • Line 7 goes to Amnissos
  • Line 8 goes to FORTH (Foundation for Research & Technology Hellas)
  • Line 11 goes to University hospital
  • Line 12 goes to HMU (Hellenic Mediterranean University, formerly TEI - Technologiko Ekpedeftiko Idrima Kritis)

By car

Traffic in Heraklion is bad and parking is worse. You can see the main central sights on foot, and take the bus for Knossos, Rethymno and Chania. You hardly need a car for your trip.

Hiring a car is easy with the usual documentation (a standard EU driving licence is fine.) Get prior permission in writing from the rental company if you plan to take the car away on a ferry.

Petrol stations often close around 21:00, particularly in villages. Most petrol stations expect you to pay cash; they serve you, so you can choose for them to fill the tank or put in fuel to a cash value. On the National Highway, there are service stations, but they are often 50 km or so apart. Fill up before public holidays and Sundays when you may have more difficulty finding an open station.

By taxi

Lots of taxi ranks in all the main locations, downtown and at the airport and ferry port. Usually they're looking for trade and will spot you before you spot them. If they're sparse, call (☏ +30 2810 210102) or via their website.

By motorbike

Even though Crete is the biggest Greek island, it is still easy and quick to get around it by motorcycle. Riding mopeds and motorcycles is a common activity in Crete and a lot of tourists choose this way of exploring the island. The minimum driving age for a moped in Greece is 16. As Crete is a very rural island, riders should be aware of livestock who often are present along the sides of the highways, and sometimes can make their way into the middle of the road. As tempting as it might be to explore off the beaten path, a good rule of thumb is to stick to roads and trails that emergency services will be able access should there be a need for emergency assistance.

There is no lack of motorbike rental providers around the Island, but mostly are concentrated near the airports and within Heraklion, Chania, and Rethymno.

  • Riderly. Selection of scooters, motorcycles and quads available in multiple shops on the island. Riding gear and insurance provided. (updated Sep 2021)
  • Sky Rentals. Besides cars, they also provide scooters 125 and 150cc scooters. (updated Sep 2021)

See

The must-see sights are the Archaeological Museum downtown, and the Palace of Knossos 5 km south. A combined ticket is no longer offered.

Take a stroll along the city's Venetian wall (Greek: Τείχη). It's 7.5 km long, with seven bastions jutting out. On the southernmost of these, the Martinengo Bastion, is the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis with its moving inscription, "I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free." From the wall head towards the harbour, taking in the Historical Museum, which picks up the story where the Archaeological Museum leaves off. The Koules or fortress stands over the inner harbour but the mole continues for almost 2 km, with views back over the city and the ferry port. You don't need to enter the Koules to go on the mole, but you may need to dash where the waves are breaking at its base.

  • 🌍 Heraklion Archaeological Museum, 2 Xanthoudidou St, ☏ +30 2810279000, fax: +30 2810279001, . 25 Apr – 31 Oct: daily 08:00-20:00; 1 Nov – 30 Apr: Mon 10:00-17:00, Tu-Su 09:00-16:00. Houses the most important and representative finds from Minoan civilisation and excavations across the island of Crete. Highlights include statues of the Snake Goddess, the Bull-Leaping Fresco, the Phaistos Disk, and Minoan seals and jewellery. Also includes a number of finds from Classical Greek and Roman periods. €12 full, €6 concessions; combined with Knossos (valid for 3 days) €20. (updated Oct 2017)

The Myth of Knossos

The god Zeus disguised himself as a white bull and carried off Europa to Crete, where they founded a mighty kingdom. Their son King Minos had a wife Pasiphae, who had an affair with another bull and gave birth to the Minotaur. This angry beast needed a lot of feeding, so he was kept in a labyrinth and from time to time fed a sacrifice of seven young men and seven maidens from Athens. Theseus volunteered to enter the labyrinth, reeling out a twine; he killed the Minotaur and used the twine to find his way out, where his adventures continued. It’s a terrific story but it’s led to a retro-mythology whereby the palace ruins are said to be evidence of the labyrinth, and thus of the whole pile of bull. Sir Arthur Evans played up this link for all he could, and to some extent reconstructed the site to fit. But the simple truth is just as impressive: about 4000 years ago, this site was the core of a large and powerful city. The ruins visible today were mostly built between 1700 and 1400 BC. Minoan civilization declined from around 1450 BCE, when there was a major earthquake.

  • 🌍 Palace of Knossos (take bus 2 to the end of the line. Free onsite parking available.), ☏ +30 2810 231940, +30 2810 226470, +30 2810 226092, +30 2810 224630, . Daily, summer 08:00-18:00, winter 08:00-15:00. If you see just one ruin on Crete, see Knossos (in Greek it’s Κνωσός, stress is on the second syllable). The site is fairly compact, and much of it is accessible with restricted mobility. But 30 minutes will do it. Full €15, concessions €8; combined ticket with Herakleion Archaeological Museum €20. (updated Sep 2019)
  • 🌍 Koules (Rocca a Mare), ☏ +30 2810 288484, . Daily 08:00-20:00, limited hours during off season. Koules (Greek: Κούλες) was built by the Venetians in the 16th C. From the parapet, enjoy the view towards Dia Islet, where Jacques Cousteau found many sunken remains of Cretan sea trade. €4 full, €2 concession. (updated Apr 2017)
  • 🌍 Historical Museum of Crete, 27, Sofokli Venizelou Ave, ☏ +30 2810-283219, +30 2810-288708. summer (Apr–Oct) M,W–Fr 10:00-17:00, Sa-Su 11:00-17:00; winter (Nov–Mar) M–Fr 09:00-15:30, Sa-Su 10:00-16:00. Covers the story of Crete from the Byzantine era to the present day. It includes material on World War II and the German occupation,which was displayed in the “Museum of the Battle for Crete and National Resistance” until it closed. €7.50 full, €4.50 concession, children 12 and under: free. (updated Jun 2022)
  • 🌍 Loggia (Greek: Λότζια), 25 August Str. An elegant city meeting place, built in 1628. (updated Apr 2017)
  • 🌍 Morosini Fountain (Lions Square; Greek: Λιοντάρια). (updated Apr 2017)
  • 🌍 St Minas Cathedral (Agios Minas Cathedral), ☏ +30 2810 282402. (Greek: Άγιος Μηνάς) (updated Oct 2016)
  • 🌍 St Titus Church, Pl. Agiou Titou, ☏ +30 281 034 6079. (Greek: Άγιος Τίτος) Known for housing the skull of St. Titus. (updated Mar 2017)
  • 🌍 St Catherine of the Sinaites Church, Monis Odigitrias 1. M-Sa 09:30-19:30; Su 10:00-19:30. (Greek: Αγία Αικατερίνη Σιναϊτών). (updated Mar 2017)
  • 🌍 St Mark's Basilica, Pl. Kallergon 100. (Greek: Βασιλική Αγίου Μάρκου). (updated Mar 2017)
  • 🌍 Dominican Church of St Peter, I. Mitsotaki. (Greek: Άγιος Πέτρος Δομηνικανών). (updated Mar 2017)
  • 🌍 Natural History Museum of Crete, Sofokli Venizelou Ave, ☏ +30 2810 282740. 9:00-15:00 weekdays, 10:00-18:00 weekends. The Natural History Museum of Crete shows the natural environment of the Eastern Mediterranean area with a special emphasis on Greece and Crete. €7.50, concession €4.50. (updated Feb 2022)
  • 🌍 Nikos Kazantzakis Museum, Myrtia 70100, ☏ +30 2810 741689, . 09:00-17:00 (in season). This museum in the village of Myrtia (Varvari), 20 km south of Heraklion, focuses on Crete's most prominent modern intellectual figure. €5, concession €3. (updated Feb 2022)

Take the main highway east towards Malia to reach the Cretaquarium and the folklore museum.

  • 🌍 CretAquarium Thalassokosmos (15 km east of Heraklion on main highway to Malia), ☏ +30 2810 337788 (for bookings: +30 2810 337888), fax: +30 2810 337882. Daily 09:30 to 19:00 summer, to 16:00 winter. The biggest aquarium in the Eastern Mediterranean. €10 full; concessions plus winter reductions. (updated Jun 2022)
  • 🌍 Lychnostatis Open-Air Museum, Hersonissos 700 14, Hersonissos, ☏ +30 28970 23660. Apr-Oct: Su-F 09:00-14:00, closed Sa, closed Nov-Mar. Open-air Cretan folklore museum. €5, concessions €2-3. 

Do
  • Amoudara the city's beach area; a 6 km strip of sandy beach, lots of cafes, bars and hotels and the site of "Technopolis", a modern multiplex cinema and open-air theatre.
  • Horseback riding, experienced and amateur riders can ride at the beach of Karteros, or take riding lessons at Ippikos Omilos Hrakliou, located 6 km east of Heraklion, in Karteros.
  • Rock climbing, locals and visitors can climb a 15 m rock at the suburb of Karteros, east of Heraklion. Safety equipment is provided.
  • Water fun at Water City and Aqua Plus water parks.
  • Football: OFI Crete play soccer in Superleague, the top tier in Greece. Their home ground is Theodoros Vardinogiannis Stadium (capacity 9000) on km west of city centre.
  • Heraklion Sailing Club (Ιστιοπλοϊκός Όμιλος Ηρακλείου) offers sailing lessons, sailing trips, yacht charters and has its own seafood restaurant. It's on the former premises of the port refrigeration plant, east of the Port Authorities.
  • Heraklion Summer Arts Festival is held from June to September.

Learn
  • 🌍 University of Crete. The leading higher education institution on the island of Crete. The University was established in 1973 and operates under the supervision of the State. The seat of the University is in Rethymno, with Heraklion hosting the School of Sciences and Engineering and that of Health Sciences. (updated Oct 2018)

Buy
  • Visit the central open market near Meidani square and buy mountain herbs, spices and folk natural remedies.

Eat

Budget

Throughout the city centre, it is easy to find cheap tavernas (ταβέρνα) offering full meals for under €20 for two people. A strict budget can be met by sticking to the supermarkets which provide the usual array of fruits, vegetables and cheese for modest prices (€5/day is quite feasible.) Central cafes serve the local breakfast treat bougatsa, a local pastry with cottage cheese, served with honey, or cinnamon and sugar. Also available are the usual complement of pastry shops for standard meals such as spanakopita (spinach pie) and various cheap deserts.

There are many low-priced restaurants in the city centre:

  • 🌍 O Kafenes tou Kagiampi (Το Καφενείο του Καγιαμπή), Monofatsiou 12. Old fashioned tavern with traditional Greek dishes. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 Kafeneio O Ntokos (καφενείον ο ντόκος), Karterou 11. Tiny place next to the fish market with delicious mezedes to accompany your beer or raki. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 Umami Homemade Organic & Vegan Restaurant, Meramvellou 3. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 Cooking with love (Μαγειρεύοντας μέ Ἀγάπην), Koroneou 21. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 Hovoli (ΧΟΒΟΛΗ), Pl. Daskalogianni. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 Μαγειρείον Μελομπερδέματα (κ. Ελένη), Monis Kardiotissis 3. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 Orgy Hungarian Restaurant, Αγίου Τίτου 22. (updated Feb 2023)

Mid-range
  • 🌍 Kafeneio O Lakkos (Καφενείο Ο Λάκκος), Taxiarchou Markopoulou 41. Lost in a maze of small streets where different street artists have decorated the walls of the houses, Lakkos is particularly nice in the summer. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 Pagopiion (Παγοποιεῖον), Pl. Agiou Titou 1. (Ice-Factory)– A "quirky" restaurant and cafe/bar, at St Titus square, by the church. You can sit outside and enjoy the setting, or you might be tempted by the dramatic decor to sit inside. The food is excellent, and the menu different and interesting. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 Ippokampos (Ιππόκαμπος), Leof. Sofokli Venizelou 3. Seafood and fish tavern by the sea side, popular with the locals. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 Herbs' Garden, Roof Garden, Epimenidou 15 (The Roof Garden of Lato Boutique Hotel). The name has been inspired from the traditional Cretan herbs. Offers a spectacular view to Heraklion's Venetian fortress and Cretan Sea. Opens from early afternoon and serves fresh fish and salads accompanied by local aperitifs and a variety of fine wines. Later in the afternoon there is special coffee and tea arrangements, fresh fruit juices, ice cream and cocktails. (updated Feb 2023)

Splurge
  • 🌍 Epsilon Restaurant, roof garden Legacy Suites Hotel, Giorgou Anemogianni 43. (updated Feb 2023)
  • 🌍 7 Thalases, Iraklitou και. (updated Feb 2023)

Drink
  • Raki, also known as tsikoudia, is the trademark of Cretan day and night life, a strong clear drink similar to grappa in Italy or orujo in Spain. It is made from the 'must' of grape skins and twigs after the local production of the white wine. It doesn't taste like aniseed, as opposed to the Turkish rakı. Most raki is standard spirit strength of 40% or 80o proof, but some are much stronger. It's often served in small glasses after dinner with a plate of fruit or other dessert.
  • Cretan wine: Try the distinctive Cretan wine, produced in the island for at least 4000 years. Labels: Sitia, Peza Union. The Cretans themselves drink so called 'open' wine, straight out of the barrel, like fresh white wine, and the sometimes very old dark rusty red wine, a bit like port. Typical Cretan wine varieties are Marouvas and Kotsifali (both red wines).

Sleep

Budget

There are two hostels in Heraklion, both in the city centre, a 10-minute drive from the airport and a 5-minute drive from the port. A taxi from the airport to either hostel should cost less than €10, and from the port less than €6.

  • Heraklion Youth Hostel, Vironos 5, ☏ +30 2810 286281. Read the online reviews before booking: fairly disgusting and not for the faint hearted. 
  • Prince of Lillies Hotel, Old National Road, Karteros, ☏ +30 2810 381645, fax: +30 2810 381644, . Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. An excellent family-run hotel in Karteros, about 7 km east of Heraklion beyond the airport. (On bus route to Ag Nik with hourly buses.) singles from €30, doubles from €35. (updated Apr 2017)

Mid-range
  • 🌍 Mirabello Hotel, 20, Theotokopoulou, ☏ +30 2810 285052, fax: +30 2810 225852, . Good value, friendly atmosphere, very helpful staff. Rooms from €30-55 with discounts during low-season. Centrally located in a quiet part of the city. Nice views from the balcony. 
  • Life Hotel, 50, Ikarou Ave, ☏ +30 2810 243090, +30 2810 343088. This hotel is walking distance to the port and very close to the bus station. Double €70. A good option if staying near the port and walking distance to the centre. It is also a 25-min walk from the airport and the directions are simple: Remain on Ikarou Ave until you see the hotel on the left. Staff are helpful and speak fluent English 

Splurge

Connect

Free WiFi provided by municipality, and some cafes. 3G & 4G networks are also available

Stay safe

Road safety is wanting and generally the attitudes of all road users are poor and reckless. For pedestrians, there are haphazard pavements, usually entirely obstructed by parked cars and bikes, meaning the road itself has to be used by pedestrians. Other roads lack pavements. Road crossings for pedestrians do not seem to be recognized by motorists, making crossing difficult in busy roads. Drivers and bikers may even drive through junctions when the "green man" is indicating it is safe for pedestrians to cross. The bikers seem to be the worst, usually wearing no helmet and happily talking on a mobile phone or reading a text message while driving. Sometimes bikers ride on the pavements, and expect pedestrians to move out their way.

There are many stray cats and dogs in the city. The dogs can often be seen in small packs, and may bark and growl but do not attack if they are left alone.

Cope

Heraklion can seem traffic-choked, polluted and crowded with chain-smokers at times. A visit would not be advisable for those very sensitive to cigarette smoke (e.g. asthmatics), as smoke is everywhere. Even no smoking rooms in hotels are likely to have the smell of cigarettes drift from the corridor or the window. Fortunately anywhere near the sea front there is a refreshing mild sea breeze.

Go next

Within reach of a day-trip, but worth longer, are Rethymno, Chania (the most charming old town on the island), and Agios Nikolaos. Chania is the best base for exploring the Samaria Gorge, and Agios Nikolaos is your base for seeing Spinalonga. You'll need your own car to see Anogia, or Phaistos Palace and Matala beach, on a day trip.

Routes through Heraklion
Chania ← Bali ←  W  E  → Chersonissos → Sitia


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