Las Terrenas

International flights go directly to Samaná El Catey International Airport (AZS ^IATA), also known as Aeropuerto Internacional Presidente Juan Bosch (AISA). In the past, cab drivers would ask for $70 US dollars from the airport to Las Terrenas. Check with your hotel for to verify and to see if you can get a better deal. The ride used to be a bit rough and take 45 mins, though the road may have improved since then.

The El Portillo airport, much closer to Las Terrenas, has been closed since 2012, and served mostly private and charter flights.

Guagua routes exist from Santo Domingo (express guagua), Sanchez, and Samana. If you feel adventurous, you can also take a pickup truck or a motoconcho (with trailer) from Samana over the mountains.

The express route from Santo Domingo to Las Terrenas is now served by a full-sized coach bus with air conditioning. It takes 2.5 hours and costs 500 pesos as of September 2020. The buses are run by Transporte Las Terrenas and leave Santo Domingo from the ASOTRAPUSA bus garage a couple blocks west of Parque Enriquillo (walking distance from the Zona Colonial, though passing through a crowded shopping area where you should be careful about theft). The bus station in Las Terrenas is at the southwest end of town, 2.5km inland from the beach.

Las Terrenas is about a two-hour drive from Santo Domingo, along a fully-paved road that was in very good condition as of September 2020. Driving here from Punta Cana or anywhere in the country's west will take considerably longer, so do your research first.

A good price for a taxi to or from Santo Domingo airport is anything under US$150.

It's perfectly feasible to travel around Samana province - and probably much farther - on a motorbike or even a moped-style motor scooter (pasola in Dominican Spanish). If you're headed to Las Terrenas from Samana and prefer an easy ride, go via Limon rather than Sanchez, as there's a very steep, long hilly section of road just inland from Sanchez. Though since most of the rentals are in Las Terrenas, you're more likely to be doing this in the other direction (still worth avoiding riding your brakes for miles down the hill entering Sanchez). Otherwise, watch out for potholes, but the roads in this area are generally in pretty good condition.

Traveling to Las Terrenas from Punta Cana by guaguas and ferry (Sábana del Mar-Samaná) will take about 8h, but is certainly possible within one day.

If you have a sailboat, it's possible to anchor off the main beach, but be aware that there's nowhere to land your dinghy except right on the sand, it's not very sheltered from waves, and there's a maze of shallow reefs (enter in good visibility or use Bing Maps aerial imagery - Google Maps satellite view doesn't show it well).

For many visitors, your own two feet will be all you need to get around most of the time. Many accommodations are directly across the street from the long, beautiful beach, and often also within easy walking distance of the central tourist triangle and even the inland downtown area. Most of the roads in town have sidewalks, and traffic moves slowly. But if you end up staying farther from town or the beach, aren't up for much walking, or occasionally want to go somewhere farther afield, you'll want to look into other transportation options as well.

Motoconchos are everywhere and very convenient. As of April 2021, the standard price to go anywhere in or near town, including as far as Playa Bonita, is 100 pesos per person - still charged per person even if you put more than one on the same bike (any self-respecting motoconcho driver can take at least two passengers). All of the ones we used were honest, with no one trying to overcharge us. The regular drivers wear bright yellow-green vests and hang out on street corners and in front of bars, but can also be flagged down from the roadside. If fact, they will often honk to offer you a ride as they pass by.

You can catch guaguas in town and they can go a greater distance, ex. to the waterfall in El Limon. For guaguas to Limon, try the three-way intersection at the entrance to the town cemetery.

You can rent a motor scooter for about $20 US per day (verified Sep. 2020) or a 4-wheeler for about $40-50 US. These modes of transportation seem most common for visitors. Locals use motorcycles or cars. Daily rates may be heavily discounted for longer periods. Rentals can be arranged in most hotels but there are also many rental locations in downtown Las Terranas, along the two roads stretching inland from the beach. These agencies operate with a minimum of red tape, but do be prepared to show your ID and present a credit card, as they may want put a hold on your card in case you destroy or lose the vehicle.

Drivers will have to pay special attention to potholes especially at night or after rain. You can go to the waterfall in El Limón on a scooter. It takes about 45 mins.

Some of the rental agencies also have jeeps or small cars, starting from about US$55 per day. This is unnecessary for getting around town, but could be nice if you're planning to explore other parts of the Samaná peninsula.

• Playa Las Terrenas. The town's central beach is located right in the tourist downtown, with the most picturesque portion next to the river mouth and the boat-shaped shopping center. Located within a wide cove lined with a coastal road, mid-range resorts, beach restaurants, and local fishing boats, it stretches for many kilometers in either direction, wrapping around the points to merge into Playa las Ballenas in the west and Playa Punta Popy in the east. (updated Sep 2020)
• Playa Bonita. Maybe the area's most talked-about beach, a long walk or a 10-minute motoconcho ride from town. Includes a long, almost straight stretch of beach popular for swimming and playing in the waves, as well as a calmer, prettier section stretching north from the east end with beautiful backdrops of jungle and rock formations. (updated Sep 2020)
• Playa Escondida. This "hidden beach" is accessible via an unmarked, 5-minute hiking trail from the very northeastern tip of Playa Bonita. Less crowded, and with a wider sand area, but without much shade. Framed on two ends by pretty hills, through straight behind it is a meadow with a hotel in the distance. (updated Sep 2020)
• Playa Las Ballenas. Around the corner to the west from Playa Las Terrenas, Playa Las Ballenas could arguably be called the prettiest of the beaches, with wide sandy shores, plenty of coconut trees, and a more relaxed, suburban vibe. Between this beach and the downtown are several beach bars of the type consisting of a hut and seating stuck right on the sand. (updated Sep 2020)

A popular destination for visitors to Las Terrenas, foreign and Dominican alike, this waterfall (actually a group of several falls) is located about 20km east of Las Terrenas, nestled in the jungle near the hill village of Limón. Its official Spanish name is Salto El Limón, but its also commonly called Cascada Limón. The falls aren't accessible by car, but only by dirt trails which you can traverse either on foot or on horseback, accessible from several different trailheads. Expect the walk to take half an hour or so (very rough estimate), depending on where you start.

The local ecotourism cooperative charges a 50-100 peso entrance fee (someone else paid for us, so we aren't sure of the exact price), and at the major trailheads locals will try to talk you into hiring a horse at a considerably higher price. It's not necessary unless you can't do the walking, but it might be a fun experience. The trails are easy to follow and in good condition.

The highlight is a tall, misty waterfall near the middle of the area with sizeable swimming hole at the bottom. There are other smaller falls nearby too, including one downstream with a more concentrated waterflow for those who want to sit underneath and get blasted by cold water. That one's not deep enough to swim in though, with its pool mostly at wading depth.

See above.

In general, the beaches of Las Terrenas are good for swimming and wading, with warm water, gently sloping sandy bottoms, and few currents, though of course you should always exercise caution when venturing into the ocean. Follow the lead of others to find the good spots, or if there's no one else in the water, pick one of the spots where the water is clear pale blue, meaning the bottom is sandy, and not one of the spots where the water looks brownish-green or purplish, which is where the rocky reefs are (sharp rocks and sea urchins). If the water is stirred up so much by the waves that you can't see the line between the sand and the reef, be very cautious - in this case it's best if you know the area to remember which spots are good.

If you're craving a dip in some cooler fresh water, there are options outside of town, such as Limón Waterfall (see above), the Limón Natural Pool (a cement wading pool fed by a mountain stream and full of small fish), and the small natural swimming hole in El Portillo (across the main road from the beach east of El Portillo Residences).

There are some nice divesites around Las Terrenas with healthy coral reefs. Most of them can be reached by boat. The shallower divesites are also good places for snorkelling. It is possible to dive here all year round. The predominant species of corals are brain corals, seafans, sea rods. There is great profusion of surgeonfish and tangs, trumpetfish, stingrays, parrotfish and trumpetfish here. Name of the divesites Balena Rock The Holes Piedra Marcel Coson Reef 1 & 2 Creole Reef Portillo Wreck

• 🌍 The Dive Academy Las Terrenas, Casa Venezia, La Serenissima, El Portillo road km 4., ☏ +1 829-906-9618, contact@tdalasterrenas.com. 10 USD - test dive, 90 USD double boat dive in Las Terrenas. (updated Sep 2015)

The Dominican Republic isn't known for great snorkeling off the beaches, but Las Terrenas is one of the more decent places for it (along with Sosúa). Consider bringing your own gear. Unless your hotel has it or you're on a tour, your only other choice for rentals might be the Dive Academy. If they don't have rentals, you can buy a snorkel set from them. There's not a lot here for jaded old-timers - live coral growth exists but is patchy, and there aren't a lot of the bigger, more exciting fish species - but for snorkelers who just like to check out what's there or see some small, colorful fish, there's plenty to look at (damselfish, blue tang, and wrasse are abundant - if you're a little lucky you might find moray eels, butterflyfish, scorpionfish, and pufferfish).

Conditions vary drastically based on the surf. When there are strong waves, it's so murky to be completely worthless going in. On other days, there's barely any surf and the water is beautiful and clear. Winter is surfing season on the north shore, so good snorkeling days are probably fewer in the winter, but more common in the summer. The Las Terrenas surf forecast from Magic Seaweed is pretty accurate - for decent snorkeling, look for days with surf height 0.5m or less (swell height about 1m or less). When it's near the line, consider avoiding the rougher surf of the main city beach and heading west towards Playa Las Ballenas or east past Punta Popy. Those areas are a bit more sheltered by the outer reefs, and often have a bit better visibility.

To find spots to snorkel. Look from the shore or check Bing Maps Aerial imagery (Google Maps Satellite view doesn't show it clearly) to see where the reefs are (they'll look like brownish or purplish areas contrasting with the light blue of the sandy areas). You can usually see some fish over the shallow middle of any reef, though the edges are often better, with the living coral growth (about half alive, half dead) concentrated on the outer (seaward) edges. On the main city beach, the reef patch that extends right up to the little point by the fish market and cemetery is pretty good, and the next patch to the east is too (for whatever reason, both of these reefs are much more vibrant on their eastern sides, and relatively barren on the western sides).

The people at the dive shop recommend the area off of Eden Beach Bar near Playa las Ballenas, which has some nice shallow areas for beginners to see some fish (look for the rocky spots). Much farther out (about 200 meters), by the exposed coral pinnacle, is a more impressive coral garden, with interesting rock outcrops and large specimens of brain and elkhorn coral (it's possible to find these at the outer edges of the nearshore reefs on the main city beach too, but not in such a concentration). However, exercise caution if visiting here on your own - the outer reef is only for experienced snorkelers. At high tide on a low-ish surf day, the surge can be pretty intense. One can only imagine what it would be like with higher surf and a lower tide.

The Dive Academy dive shop (see above) has boat tours to spots that are supposed to have better snorkeling, starting at US$65 per person. There is one trip that leaves right from Las Terrenas, though the most-recommended one only costs a little more, but leaves from Samana town on the other side of the peninsula instead. As at their shop for details.

There is apparently a short dirt road loop through the hills near Las Terrenas for visitors who want to learn about the local coffee and cacao (chocolate) growing industry, including some free samples and of course opportunities to buy directly from the farmers. You may need a 4-wheeler or jeep for this route. Ask locally for more details.

• Las Palmeras, ☏ +1 809 240 6231. The cheapest accommodation we found within the tourist zone, separated from the beach by the (beautifully-painted) cemetery wall but just a two-minute walk from the water. Small ground-level rooms in outbuildings tucked into a cute garden behind restaurant. Our room was quite small and a little dark with a hilariously tilted floor, but most things worked, and it got the job done. 1,000 pesos for a double room with fan (low-season). (updated Nov 2020)
• Hotel Guayacan. Another lower-end option along the cemetery-wall strip, but a good value for the money. The second-floor room we stayed in had a slight sea view, was reasonably spacious, and had lots of natural light as well as air-conditioning. Nothing was broken. Very friendly owner. 1300 pesos for a double room with AC (low season). (updated Nov 2020)
• Afreeka Beach Hostel (Coastal road just before Punta Popy). Seems to be the only place near the beach with dorm-style hostel accomodations, though still not as cheap as the cheapest hotels. We didn't end up staying here, but open-air hangout area looked pretty nice. Right across the street from the Punta Popy beach, but a bit of a walk from the tourist shopping district. US$20 for a dorm bed, more for private rooms. (updated Nov 2020)
• Hotel Casa Robinson (Calle Emilio Prudhomme, behind Pizza Coco). Good quality studio apartment-style rooms (4 to a cottage) within a very pleasant garden. Slightly off the main coastal road but within a 2-minute walk to the beach. Also not far from the tourist center, easily walkable. Our room had a kitchen and hot water. There was no air-conditioning, but we rarely missed it because the room was very breezy (windows with screens on three sides) and had a good ceiling fan. Very chill and helpful staff. 1,700 pesos for a mini-apartment that sleeps 2-3 people (might be low-season price). (updated Nov 2020)
• Dan and Manty's Guesthouse, Calle del Carmen, 105, ☏ +1 849-873-5742. $19 (American dollars). (updated Nov 2020)

• Casa Grande Beach Hotel, Playa Bonita, ☏ +1 809-350-9875. Simple rooms. Really good food. Pleasant environment. 
• El Rincon de Abi, Calle Emilio Prudhomme 5, ☏ +1 809-240-6639. Located about 20m to the beach, in the less touristic part of the town. Rooms are clean, spacious, and functional. The estate is a beautiful oasis of plants and flowers. The staff is nice and helpful. Safes for storage of valuable items are available in the rooms free of cost.