Loikaw

Formerly an administrative outpost of British Burma, Loikaw continues today as the administrative capital of the region with government and NGO offices, a hospital, and a nearby military base. The region is known for its many ethnic groups with the most famous being the Karenni people, especially the Kayan Lahwi/Padaung (women) with their golden brass neck coils that seem to stretch their neck (but actually cause a lower shoulder). You will see locals wearing traditional ethnic clothing, usually at the markets.

The geography around Loikaw consists of plains dotted by lakes surrounded by a multitude of densely forested hills. Agriculture and resource extraction are the main industries of the area. There is a large hydroelectric dam at Lawpita providing around 30% of the national electricity output.

Historically, this region was affected by decades of conflict. Various Karenni and Shan groups were in armed conflict with the central government and with each other until the 2012 ceasefire agreements in the state. Refugees from this conflict are present in Thailand and around the world. The largest Karenni organization in the area is the Karenni National Progressive Party (KNPP). You may be able to see offices and flags of these groups when you travel in the region.

Starting in the early 2010s, the area opened up and begun development for tourism. Travel to remote regions off the beaten track may still require permits. A guide is recommended to help with navigation and safety. The state is heavily mined due to the prior conflict.

Most of the town can be covered on foot. Surrounding temples and villages are easy by bicycle if you are comfortable with traffic on busy roads. Alternatively, a tuktuk or taxi can be hired. Local buses travel the main road. Ticket prices are based on distance.

To reach sights further away from Loikaw, a hired private car is recommended due to the remoteness of some of the sights and the lack of public transport options. Reaching areas off the highways may necessitate a 4x4 vehicle due to dirt roads. The monsoon season will also impair any travel to these areas due to its effect on dirt roads.

• Take a walk around the local market in the morning and spot different tribes selling their goods.
• Cross the old wooden footbridge without tripping.
• Walk around Naung Yar Lake to watch the sunset in the evening.
• Rent a bicycle or motorbike at Loikaw Souvenirs (No(1), Kandayawadi Street across the street of Mingalar Hotel. ☏ +95 9 560 0125). Victoria, the owner of the shop is very kind and would be very happy to help you. She also organizes tours to go around Loikaw and villages.

Many local foods and products at the market. Traditional woven Karenni clothing are made within this region as a handicraft to buy from various shops in town. Woven bamboo baskets are another local handicraft.

• 🌍 Naung Yar Market. Local roadside market selling a variety of foods and goods. People travel from the surrounding region to buy and sell here. Go in the morning. 
• 🌍 Thiri Mingalar Market (Where the NH5 highway crosses south of the bridge). Large outdoor market with covered stalls. Many different items sold here including a range of grocery stalls, eateries, souvenir and general goods shops. Pharmacy and electronic stalls are also present. 

Since it's Myanmar and a small town don't expect much open after 21:30 or before 08:00.

• 🌍 Mingalar Hin Htote. Daily 07:00-16:00. Popular restaurant known for its Hin Htote (rice flour and meat steamed in a banana leaf), a specialty of the region. Eat it with chili sauce. Busy with both people eating in and buying hin htote for takeout. ~500 kyat. (updated Jan 2020)

• 🌍 Shan Noodle Shop (3 minute walk south of the clock tower across the police station). Shop selling Shan noodles, which are rice noodles topped with a mix of spices, peanuts, and chilis. Busy during the breakfast-lunch hours. (updated Jan 2020)

• 🌍 Shwe Ya Ti (3 minute walk west of the clock tower by the Daw Na Street bridge). Restaurant with a patio overlooking the Balu Chaung River. Serves traditional Burmese foods such as Burmese curries. Food available pre-made and made to order. (updated Jan 2020)

Cheap noodles 500 kyat at a small shop just north from the wooden bridge on Highway 5.

Usual tea houses with fried food freshest early in the morning. Small market with food stalls north of Shwe Thaung Monastery. Dumpling stuffed with tofu and spring onions, 1,200 kyat good for two.

There are numerous tea shops selling fried dough snacks. Local Burmese beer such as Dagon is a popular drink of choice. People will also consume homemade moonshine made from a variety of grains, which you can try if you are adventurous.

• 🌍 Kayan Golden Sky Motel, 29, Khattar St, Mingalar Ward (south side of the river, 300 m before Taung Kwe Pagoda), ☏ +95-83-222-1923, kayangoldensky@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Motel with 12 non-smoking rooms (double, twin & family), all featuring AC, TV with satellite channels, private bathroom. Family run business. Breakfast included served from 06:30 to 09:00 on the rooftop. Free wifi accessible from all areas. Free parking. Free bicycle to borrow. Motorbikes can be rented. Guide & transportation can be organized from here. Payment by cash or Visa/Mastercard. US$30 for double & twin, $45 for family room. (updated May 2018)
• 🌍 Hotel Loikaw, 9 Street, Naung Yar A Quarter (End of street by Htee Ngar Yar Lake), ☏ +95 83 22 946. Large hotel about 15 min north of the city centre beside a lake and one of the oldest hotels in Loikaw. There are rooms in a tower constructed in 2018/2019 as well as rooms in much older wooden bungalows constructed of what appears to be teak. Private bathrooms. Restaurant on-site. The hotel appears to be a popular venue in hosting large groups with large conference space. Front desk staff speak English and can arrange private cars and tours. Bicycles also available. Starting at 40,000 kyat; dependent on the season. (updated Jan 2020)
• 🌍 Moon Joy Inn, 4 U Thiri Road Dal U Khu Quarter (from the clock tower in the north of town on Highway 5, turn west and travel past the lake; take the 4th left turn (also the second road over the river), the Inn is on the left side set back from the road, before the bridge), ☏ +95 8321618. Basic and not recommended if you are a light sleeper. Single and double rooms available with shared facilities, popular with locals so advanced booking is suggested. Speak English slowly and clearly. 8000 kyat. (updated Nov 2015)
• 🌍 Thingaha Inn, No.72 Nawarat St Daw Noe Ku Quarter (from the clock tower on Highway 5 head south; take the last left turn before the steel bridge over the river; the Inn is about 350 m along on the right side; the sign is in Myanmar Burmese but can be recognised by a large space for car park in front), ☏ +95 8321335. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic breakfast included. Wifi and shared bathrooms, sometimes hot water. Helpful landlady. Bicycle hire is available but bikes in poor condition. US$15 single, $25 double, $60 en suite room. (updated Nov 2015)
• 🌍 Nan Ayar Inn, No.112A, Nat Shin Naung Street, Daw Oo Khu Quarter, ☏ +95 9 262 591 161. Basic accommodation with two different types of rooms. Basic breakfast included. 15,000 kyat double with shared bathroom and 25,000 kyat double with private bathroom.