Makarska

The Makarska Riviera is a 66-km coastal strip of small towns, villages and beaches along coastal Highway 8 from Brela on the northwest end, through Baška Voda, Bratuš, Krvavica and Makarska itself, continuing southeast through Tučepi, Podgora, Igrane, Mala Duba, Drvenik, Zaostrog, Podaca, Brist and to end in the southeast at Gradac. These all have some accommodation but are much smaller and with fewer permanent inhabitants.

Makarska town (with a population of 13,834 in 2011) has most of its facilities along the traffic-free beach strip Šetalište Dr Franje Tuđmana. Hotels may give their address as Ul Kralja Petra Krešimira IV but this is just a service road one block back where coaches and laundry trucks unload; a further block back is the through-street and bus station. The strip runs to the peninsula of Sveti Petar where it joins the Old Town clustered around the harbour.

Walk, but the beach strip is 4 km long, with electric scooters weaving past. With children you might take the road train that toot-toots along the strip every 20-30 min.

Bus: Croatia Bus runs south from Makarska every 30-60 min through Tučepi to Podgora, taking 30 min. To go further down the Riviera (e.g. to Igrane, Drvenik and Gradac) you have to take the infrequent buses for Dubrovnik and/or Metković, see "Get in".

For the Riviera villages north of Makarska, use the Promet bus for Split as above.

Taxi: there's no single large taxi company, but many small operators with a couple of cars apiece.

• The Old Town is small but well-preserved, stretching back from the harbour through alleys and piazzas, especially pleasant at dusk. The main church of Sv Marka (Co-Cathedral of St Mark) has a baroque interior.
• Municipal Museum on the quayside has a small but interesting display. It's open M-F 07:00-15:00, Sa 09:00-12:00; €1.
• Malacological Museum is the grand name for this collection of seashells, usually open 10:00-13:00 and 17:00-19:00. Worth looking in for the venue, an old Franciscan monastery south end of the centre.
• 🌍 Sveti Petar (St Peter) is a small island that (like many other islets along the Dalmatia coast) has become joined to the mainland by infill, so it's now an anvil-shaped peninsula separating the harbour from the main beach. It's a bosky park with a stubby lighthouse at its west end and an old church. The south shore is popular with nudists so you might also see some stubby pale zucchini.
• 🌍 Osejava Park is the coastal ridge stretching south from the harbour all the way to Tucepi. There are quiet paths (a bit rough for cycling), woodland, and little beaches. Wild camping is not recommended, as there are bugs and spiky vegetation.
• 🌍 Vepric or "Lourdes Makarska" is a woodland grotto with shrine. It's 2 km north of town off Highway 8, helpfully signposted "No entry except Driving School vehicles" in Croat.
• The mountains rearing up behind Makarska comprise Biokovo Nature Park, stretching 36 km along the coast and 9 km inland. It's a huge landscape of limestone karst crags, cliffs and ravines but the most accessible part is the village of 🌍 Kotišina. This has an old church and the scrappy remains of a castle built into the cliffs, but its main attraction is the Botanical Garden, a protected habitat rather than a formally-laid out garden.
• Get further into the park via the lane that begins near 🌍 Šimići on Highway 512. The park toll booth is here: €7 for one day, €13.50 for 3 days or €33.50 for 7 days. The lane zigzags up to Vrata, whence the south fork descends eventually to Igrane, while the north fork threads its way up Vlaška Ravine to the park's highest point of Sveti Jure (St George) at 1762 m. You're going to need a car with a stout first and second gear, or come on a tour; and make sure it's a clear day, there's no point when it's socked in by cloud. There's accommodation and a few cafes within the park.

• Water activities such as parasailing, jet skiing and motor boat hire: lots of operators along the beach strip. Wibit is a water obstacle course on inflatable rafts. The beach is just a narrow strip of shingle; no tides as this is part of the Med.
• Scuba dive with More, Kresimira IV 43 (opposite Dalmacija Hotel), ☏ +385 98 173 99 26, info@more-sub-makarska.hr. They go out daily at 09:00 for two-tank dives, returning 13:00-ish. PADI courses available. €81.50 for two-tank dive & equipment, cash only. (updated Sep 2019)

The other local diving operation is Butterfly based in Tucepi 5 km south.

• Hiking: the mountains behind town have several hiking trails, scenic and seldom crowded. Don't leave the trails as pitfalls abound. The snakes are mostly innocuous but don't mess with the horned / sand viper (Vipera ammodytes).
• Rock-climbing: lots of cliffs just behind town, varying grades of difficulty.
• Rafting and kayaking along Cetina River, a 30-min drive from Makarska. It's mostly calm, but there are a few fast stretches and one hazardous section. Several tour agencies in town offer guided trips down the river. They'll point out the cave where Tito's Partisans hid from the Nazis during World War II.

• Money: Many places don't take credit cards. There are lots of small exchange kiosks, commission-free and with rates within +/- 5% of the official rate so these are good value. Plus, lots of ATMs dotted around, but these will incur charges from your bank.
• Supermarkets: Lidl is south edge of the centre along Ul. Europske zajednice (open daily 08:00-21:00). Two other local chains are Tommy Maxmarket and Studentica.
• There's an outdoor market for souvenirs, beach gear and snacks on the spit of land west end of the harbour. There's also a kids' play park here.

There are many restaurants along the beach and in the main square area, but often mediocre and tourist-trappy. Recommended are:

• Jež, Ul. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 90. Daily 12:00-00:00. Mediterranean restaurant, good for seafood and meat dishes. (updated Aug 2019)
• Kalelarga, Kalalarga 40. Daily 14:00-01:00. Fresh seafood, slow service so make a night of it. "You never know what you'll be eating" said one reviewer, who enjoyed the donkey in red wine. (updated Aug 2019)
• Restoran Herc, Šetalište Dr. Franje Tuđmana. Daily 08:00-01:00. Good food and service. (updated Aug 2019)
• Restauran Berlin is a good choice on the beach strip near Hotel Park. It's part of Villa Kapulica, which rents apartments and rooms from €40 a night.
• Riva (Vinc-Mornar), Obala kralja Tomislava 6a (on harbour quay). Daily 11:00-01:00. Good sea-food restaurant. Busy people, they also run Café Bar Nautica, Pizzeria Centrum, a couple of villas, and a motor launch. (updated Aug 2019)
• Susvid, Trg fra Andrije Kačića Miošića 8, Makarska. 24 hours. Good seafood, steak and Med cuisine, cash only. They also own Peskera restaurant. (updated Sep 2019)
• 🌍 Jeny, Čovići, Tucepi (in hills above Tucepi, follow S12), ☏ +385 91 587 8078. Daily 18:00-00:00. Good restaurant especially the 5-7 course tasting menus - but expensive, and they only take cash. (updated Aug 2019)
• 🌍 Konoba Veza, Srida Sela 1, Gornje Tucepi (in hills, follow S12), ☏ +385 21 623 224. Tu-Su 12:00-23:00, M 18:00-23:00. Good traditional restaurant up the hill above Tucepi. (updated Aug 2019)

Ice cream price in stands (summer 2023): €1.8 - 2.5.

• There are bars and cafes along the beach strip, while the dance clubs are around the harbour.
• Deep (by Hotel Osejava). July-Sept daily 09:00-05:00. Bar and dance club in a seaside grotto. (updated Sep 2019)

On the beach in Makarska, there are white beach chairs stacked along the beach. Although there is no sign to indicate that there is a charge to use these beach chairs, occasionally a money collector will come to demand that you pay for using the chair. However, the money collectors are vague about what you owe and how long you're paying for. They may also swindle you because they don't give receipts, so if another money collector comes along, you can't prove that you paid. If you refuse to pay the collector, he may threaten to call the police, but they don't seem to actually do so. Just tell in English that you thought the chairs belong to the hotel and that you thought they are included in hotel price.

Makarska and the coastal highway have 4G from all Croatian carriers and 5G from Hrvatski Telekom and A1.

• Split can easily be done as a day-trip by bus, though it deserves a longer stay. Further north are Trogir, Šibenik and Krka National Park.
• Dubrovnik is a must-see, and for a day-trip you're better joining an excursion, lots available. Reckon €40 for a non-guided tour, which will pick-up from central hotels. The public buses are slow and sparse - okay for transfers, but tedious for a day-trip.
• Sumartin on Brač island is an hour away by ferry.
• Hvar island can be reached by ferry from Drvenik, but it's better to sail from Split, a longer crossing but it brings you straight to the charming old town.