Mashiko

Large noborigama kilns were first founded there in 1853, by immigrant potters from the neighboring pottery community Kasama in Ibaraki prefecture. Simple and rustic in style, the main glazes are a clear wood ash glaze, a white rice husk ash glaze, black and kaki (persimmon), sometimes decorated with enamel red, yellow and green. These are worlds apart from the courtly ceramics of Kyoto but yet very Japanese.

Pottery has been made since Jomon times (over 10,000 years ago) in Mashiko, but modern Mashiko yaki dates only to 1853. The style was popularized by the potter Shoji Hamada. He was designated as a Holder of Important Intangible Cultural Property (so-called Ningen Kokuhō, Living National Treasure) in 1955. Because of Hamada, Mashiko yaki has been viewed as a good example of Mingei (Folkcraft) pottery.

Mashiko is a convenient day trip from Tokyo, and it is easy to get there by car, train, bus, or some combination of all three.

While Mashiko is small enough to get around on foot, there are also many special attractions surrounding the town, such as pottery studios and workshops, shrines and temples, and noodle shops and gardens hidden up the mountains and valleys. It's sufficiently stretched out to make it a bit of hike, from the train station to the pottery area, but along the way if you look carefully you can see the remainders of the old commercial district, such as the tatami and basketmaking shops. It's possible to rent bicycles at the train station for a cost of ¥800 per day, or ¥400 for two hours, plus ¥100 for each additional hour.

Maps and English brochures are available from the tourist information office to your right as you exit the platform at Mashiko station.

The town consists of many different pottery workshops, kilns and retail shops. It also has an excellent selection of restaurants as well. The twice-yearly weeklong Pottery Markets (陶器市 Tōki-ichi), held in April–May and November, are good times to visit. Many workshops in town set up stalls throughout the town, and stores large and small hold sales of specially discounted work. There are also several matsuri throughout the year, the one in late July being the largest and best attended, featuring laquered wagons carved in Kanuma by the workers who built Nikko many generations ago.

• 🌍 Mashiko Sankokan Museum (益子参考館) (Sankokan-mae bus stop), ☏ +81 285-72-5300. Shoji Hamada's workshop and home turned museum, showcasing about 30 of his works as well as his private collection. Near Hamada's thatched-roof home is a huge climbing kiln. Admission ¥800, Tu-Su 09:30 to 16:00; closed in February. (updated Jul 2022)
• 🌍 Tōgei Messe Mashiko (陶芸メッセ益子), ☏ +81 285-72-7555. A museum of ceramic arts, displaying works by Shoji Hamada and other potters, not only from Mashiko but around Japan. Admission ¥600, open Tu-Su 09:30 to 16:00. (updated Jul 2022)
• Zen no Rōka (禅の廊下), ☏ +81 285-72-9866. An indoor and outdoor museum of statues and artpieces, displaying works by Nandor Wagner a Hungarian scupltor who lived for three decades in Mashiko. There are a spring and an autumn exhibition check for details at . (updated Jul 2022)

The primary thing to purchase in Mashiko is pottery. The main street from the station to the center of town is filled with shops and boutiques offering all kinds and all price levels of ceramics. If you look closely, you'll also discover the indigo dyeing workshop and other handcrafts as well.

• 🌍 Mashikoyaki Kamamoto Kyōhan Center (益子焼窯元共販センター), ☏ +81 285-72-4444. 10AM-4PM. A cooperative sales center that sells works by most kilns in town at reasonable prices. (updated Jul 2022)
• Harvey Young Pottery (ハービー ヤング 陶房), 3650-2 Oosawa, ☏ +81-285-726484, h_young@beige.plala.or.jp. A small handmade pottery workshop operated since 1984 by an American who first went to Mashiko in 1969 to study pottery making. Tableware, Kitchenware, Flower Arrangement ware. Visitors are welcome, by appointment. 

Twice a year, coinciding with the Golden Week Holidays in the first week of May, and again for the first week of November, there is a pottery and crafts festival where potters and craftsmen from Mashiko and surrounds come to the town and set up stalls. A great chance to pick up some stunning pottery and other crafts including woodwork, leatherwork, glass, jewellery and textiles, and great bargains.

While thirty years ago Mashiko was a veritable desert of ceramics, that is not the case today. You can find many different restaurants and a broad selection of interesting things to eat whatever you're interested in, running the gamut from katsukare to a broad assortment of local, organic, vegetarian restaurants. It's easy to find ramen and gyoza inexpensively at "PePe" next to Moegi, excellent tonkatsu at Restaurant "Kotori", handmade soba at Azuman, and while it's a little known secret, there's an Italian woodfiring bread on a little back road that's served on the tables of some of the finest restaurants in Tokyo! The collection of shops known as Starnet also has a cafe and restaurant up the hill which is worthwhile. Kamakura soba tops a mountain overlooking the town and has an excellent view!

"Mashiko no Sato" is a traditional cake made in Mashiko city. It taste like sweet potato, and is very popular as souvenirs. The price is about ¥120 a piece. It is sold in most large souvenir shops in Tochigi.

Many people make Mashiko a daytrip from Tokyo or go onto Nikko for the night, but there are also several Ryokan, Minshuku and Onsen to stay at in Mashiko.

Mashiko's tourism office is at the train station. Open daily 08:00 to 20:00, tel. +81 285-72-8846 (or +81 284-72-2111 on weekends and holidays). With advance notice, they can arrange pottery classes for you.

• The shrines and parks of Nikko are within easy striking distance of Mashiko.
• Moka
• Motegi
• Ichikai
• Chikusei
• Sakuragawa
• Kasama
• Haga
• Utsunomiya