Matsu

The main islands of the Matsu archipelago are, in order of size:

• 🌍 Nangan (南竿鄉). Administration and population center, one of the two airports is here, and all inter-island ferries stop here. This is the largest of the islands, and includes a number of separate villages located in coastal bays and separated by forested mountains. (updated Jun 2019)
• 🌍 Beigan (北竿鄉). Second largest island, and home of the other airport. (updated Jun 2019)
• 🌍 Jyuguang (莒光鄉). Two islands, Sijyu (Xiju) and Dongjyu (Dongju), at the south end of the chain. Dongju is reputed to be the more beautiful of the two. (updated Jun 2019)
• 🌍 Dongyin (東引鄉). The northernmost and island, located far to the east with less-than-daily ferry access from Nangan. This island has a distinct character of its own, with starker scenery (less forest, more granite cliffs) and only a single village. Dongyin locals do not consider their island to be part of Matsu. (updated Jun 2019)

These are small, rural islands, and visitors should prepare accordingly - for example, there is no international ATM at the main harbor (though Google Maps says there's a Bank of Taiwan near the airport), and there are no official money exchange facilities for travelers heading to or arriving from Mainland China. Many shops do accept Chinese renminbi currency, but often at an unfavorable exchange rate.

There is military everywhere. Since each island is essentially a large military fortification with small civilian villages scattered throughout, try not to end up on one of their installations, which they prefer you not take pictures of either. Although controlled by the Taiwan-based Republic of China government, the Matsu islands are officially considered to be part of Fujian province and not part of Taiwan by both the PRC and ROC governments.

The culture of the islands is a mix of modern influences from Taiwan and historical influences from Fujian province. The local language is more similar to Fuzhou dialect than to Taiwanese (though almost everyone is fluent in Mandarin too), and close observers will notice a different combination of deities worshiped in temples here than in Taiwan. Those with a keen eye will also notice that the architecture of temples here is similar to Fuzhou-style temples, in contrast to the South Fujian style temples that dominate on the main island of Taiwan.

Locals generally identify as "Matsunese" or "Chinese" rather than "Taiwanese". Almost all support closer ties with mainland China over formal Taiwanese independence, and vote accordingly. Matsu is even more opposed to Taiwanese independence than the already deep-Blue Kinmen is because Matsu is not a part of the Min Nan cultural region. That does not mean they want to be unified with mainland China — they are generally proud citizens of the Republic of China. When asked if they're worried that pro-China politicians could allow them to be reunified with mainland China under communist rule, a common refrain is "it'll never happen". That being said, the DPP has made inroads among the younger generation.

Unlike the rest of the ROC-controlled territories, where Minnan (also known as "Taiwanese") dominates, residents of Matsu speak Mindong (Eastern Min) or Fuzhou Hua, which is not mutually intelligible with Minnan. However, most residents are bilingual in Mindong and Mandarin.

Google Maps now includes roads in the Matsu Islands (tested on Nangan and Dongyin) - travelers had reported in 2012 that it they did not. Unlike in Mainland China, the roads are mapped in their correct GPS positions. Additional transportation information can be found here

The Matsu Islands have been designated an official National Scenic Area by Taiwan's government, and there are extensive interpretive signs and directions posted throughout the islands in Chinese, English, Japanese, and Korean. There is a full list of official sightseeing destinations on the scenic area's official website. Most or all destinations, including former military sites, and be visited completely free of charge.

• The Blue Tears (藍眼淚) - an annual bloom of bio-luminescent algae than makes parts of the coastal seawater glow blue at night. This is the islands' most famous attraction among domestic tourists from Taiwan. It starts in early April and continues at least until July, but depends on the weather (locals say it's best on days with a light wind from the south).
• Iron fort - Built as an outpost manned by special forces near a location vulnerable to water ghosts (Chinese People's Liberation Army frogmen infiltrators), the fort has been decommissioned and opened to tourists. You must travel down a winding road. Few decide to visit this location, and it can be dark going through the bunker.
• Mazu Temple - The religious center of Matsu, goddess of the sea. Matsu was supposedly buried here once, her personal belongings are interred in the center.
• The Huge Statue of Matsu. Near the Matsu Temple in Matsu Village is a huge statue of the goddess. Follow directions for Matsu Park and drive up, up, up. Great views of China on a clear day. A bit far from the harbor, but impossible to miss once you get close. 
• Folk Cultural Artifacts Exhibition Hall - Museum sheds light on life and culture on Matsu. Also has AC, so great way to escape the heat.
• Andong and Beihai tunnels on Dongyin Island - Hollowed out tunnels going in for hundreds of metres, almost like an underground rebel base out of a Star wars movie. Previously used by the military, they are now open to the public.
• Suicide cliff - Located near Dongyin's lighthouse, a short stairway down to a viewpoint inside a huge crevasse between two granite cliffs, with the other end open to the sea.
• Dongyong and Dongcyuan lighthouses - Dongyong Lighthouse on Dongyin Island (possibly the other one too?) was built over a hundred years ago by a British architect working for the Qing Dynasty, making it one of the few historic sites that predates the islands' militarization due to the Chinese Civil War.
• Bird Watching - Due to its proximity to Mainland China, Matsu has some different bird species from Taiwan proper (specialties include the Blue Whistling Thrush, common in the forested areas of Nangan). Dongyin Island is known for its colony of Black-tailed Gulls, which due occur in Taiwan but not in such great numbers.
• Fujian architecture - Matsu has distinct traditional architectural styles than the main island of Taiwan, including wooden facades and stone houses. Take a moment to notice the quirky roofs of the traditional houses, where the tiles are not attached, but only held down with stones placed on top.
• Fuxing Village (NiouJiao). Fantastic village with stone houses build against the mountain on the sea. Can spend hours wandering. A highlight is the village's picturesque temple, featuring an unusual bright red facade and views of Beigan Island in the distance. 

• Circumnavigate your island of choice in a single day, zipping between small villages, abandoned fortifications, and active military facilities while locals and troops eye you with amusement.
• Visit fortifications dating from the days when the Cold War was hot, and locals and troops hunkered down in bunkers and tunnels to face regular artillery shelling, and the threat of Chinese PLA frogmen infiltrators.
• See authentic stone houses built in the traditional eastern Fujian-style, dating from the 19th century days when the islands were inhabited by fishermen, merchants, and mariners.
• Travel from island to island, imagining what it must have been like for a conscript from Taiwan serving when the slogan "Reconquer the Mainland" was still serious business.
• Meet the 9000 or so locals, who have made these tiny islands their home, where practically everyone knows everyone else.
• Sample the local kaoliang and laojiou liquors. The Matsu Distillery on Nangan, which makes the sorghum-based kaoliang (pinyin: gaoliang) has a showroom that's popular among domestic tour groups from Taiwan.

Matsu is famous for its fantastic seafood. Be sure to try superb authentic northern Fujian cuisine at East Fujuin Pearl (22 Matzu village, Nankan) - the specialty is "Buddha Hand clams".

Fish noodles (ground fish meat combined with potato starch and salt to form a dough, which is then cut into noodles) is a local specialty - best place is Qinbi village on Beigan.

Jiguang pastry - Made from flour and baked in charcoal urns, these pastries resemble bagels in appearance (and slightly so in taste). They were used by General Chi Jiguang in the Ming Dynasty, so that his soldiers could carry their food on strings on their chests during long marches.

Golden dumplings: Made from sweet potatoes, with sweet peanut and sugar filling. Served cold with sweet pea soup.

Matsu distills Tunnel 88 brand kaoliang (38 and 58 proof) sorghum liquor, and aged laojiou rice wine (around 30% alcohol). Free tastings and a video about the process at the Matsu distillery on Nangan Island.

Locals generally prefer to be called "Matsunese" or "Chinese" rather than "Taiwanese". To be safe, you should call the country as whole the "Republic of China", and use "Taiwan" only to refer to the island of Taiwan.

Though actual fighting ended many decades ago, Matsu is still something of a frontline area. Visitors are strongly advised not to wander off paved roads when exploring the island due to the possibility of running across old unmarked minefields. It is also advisible to avoid traveling to certain sensitive areas after dark, such as coastal areas or areas near military installations. Visitors should also obey all orders given by military personnel and avoid entering or photographing sensitive areas.