Monterrico

Monterrico is the most popular beach in Guatemala and also the closest to Guatemala City and Antigua. The beaches are full of interesting but awkward steep angles due to the strength of the pounding surf. The ocean floor here drops off very steeply after only 6-12 m (20- 40 feet), making the undertow here very strong; only strong swimmers should venture out very far. This topography also provides some nice waves for surfing. There are lifeguards on duty during the weekend. Don't forget to bring some sandals as the sand is of the black volcanic variety. It is a stunning feature for the beauty of it, but it is too hot to walk on after 10am. The beach is 15-25 m (50-80 feet) wide and stretches for miles. It is busiest(not crowded by any measure) on Sunday with mostly Guatemalans.

Get in

By public bus: From Guatemala City to Iztapa (from the bus terminal in zona 4, 05:00-18:00 more or less every hour, 1 hour and 45 min), boat across the canal of Chiquimulilla to Puerto Viejo, and from there by bus to Monterrico (four buses a day). Or by bus to Taxisco, another bus (or pickup truck) to La Avellana, and finally a lancha (boat) to Monterrico. If you don't want to boat you can now (as of Nov 2008 at least) take roads totally over-land in any combination of bus, mini-bus or mini-van all the way to the main intersection in Monterrico. There are also 3 direct buses from Guatemala City to La Avellana, leaving the bus terminal in zona 4 (may have moved) at 10:30, 12:30 and 14:30 (check the schedule with Transportes Cubanita). By shuttle: From Antigua you can take a direct mini-bus shuttle for US$18 round-trip which leaves at 08:00 and returns at 15:00 daily.

By car: Head for Escuintla - Puerto Quetzal - Iztapa - across the bridge to Puerto Viejo - and then to Monterrico. Or you can take the Carretera al Pacífico from Escuintla - Taxisco - La Avellana and a ferry to Monterrico.

Get around

Walk, run, bike, mini-van, horseback ride, boat in the canals.

See
  • Turtle Release
  • The mangrove swamp

Do

You should know that Monterrico is for relaxing, meeting people, having a meal or some drinks, and then relaxing some more. To put it plainly, there isn't much going on in Monterrico yet. The weekends-only night-life, internet cafe (1 only as of Nov 2008) and mangrove swamp is pretty much it. At times there is a lot of litter along the main street, but as the town grows more tourist-aware, the local businesses have a campaign of cleanliness, including new garbage cans in public. The beaches are mostly clean, and the hotels between the Dulce y Salado and the Eco Beach place generally keep it the best. You can take a 2-hour boat tour of the mangrove swamp for US$5. The main road leads from the beach to the mangrove swamp dock and is a pleasant little 10-minute walk. There are a few mosquitos at night and you will get bitten so bring repellent. Some hotel rooms have mosquito netting covering the bed, but not all. The waves at the beach have a short and dangerous break.

There is an internet cafe with 2 terminals on the main road along the beach, and they charge Q12 an hour.

There is a Spanish language school.

Horses are available to ride on the beach.

Baby turtle release is one of the most fun activities. There are several places along the beach that collect eggs laid by sea turtles and when hatched, they will mass release all the turtles. Ask your hotel manager or locals for more information. Generally the laying and release season runs from June through March.

Affluent Guatemalans drive their ATVs up and down the beach. So do the police. Be aware.

More affluent folk fly their single or twin propeller plane in for the weekend and often fly low along the beach. There is a grassy landing strip along the main road, owned by the Aeroclub de Guatemala. Helicopters also fly along the beach once in a while, usually the affluent folk touring around before landing at their beach houses. If possible take an ATV ride along the beach, (west or east for about 10 Km) you will see some fascinating houses.

Learn

Buy

Not much here in the way of local textiles as in other regions of Guatemala, but there are some local specialties worth noting; this region grows and dries massive loofas (they can be found drying hanging from most any surface in early November). There is also a profusion of coconuts here, so plentiful in fact that they sit in big piles at the base of trees scattered all over town, and local merchants gather them and put them in big coolers. For Q2 you can have a freshly opened coconut with cool natural coconut milk inside, and then you can pour other drinks into it or smash it open and eat the coconut meat, which is delicious.

Money

You may want to bring all the cash you need for your stay. There is a bank where you can cash traveler's checks, get credit card cash advances and other banking needs like change. There is one ATM in Monterrico in the local convenience store and when it runs out of cash or is shut down it can be days before it's in service again. Some of the more expensive hotels have been known to exchange American Express travelers checks e.g. Johnnys Place, but they will not give you the best of exchange rates. Similarly, a few hotels and restaurants accept Visa credit cards, though often with a 5% surcharge. Visa traveler's checks are not accepted anywhere in town.

Eat

Many of the hotels along the beach have restaurants. Some of the best are at the Hotels "El Delfin", "Cafe del Sol", "Pez de Oro", "Johnny's" and "Mañanitas Beach Lounge" (no hotel).

Food in most of the beach restaurants is more expensive, but dependable and you might feel much more comfortable depending on your level of travel exposure. The best part is, you get a great sunset almost everynight. Budget-food you get along Calle Principal. Here you will find a place selling chow mein tostadas for a bargain price. But be careful you can also get stomach problems. Vegetarian food is particularly hard to come by here with seafood being predominant on most menus.

On the main road from the beach to the mangrove dock street vendors sell chicken sandwiches for Q5 and fried chicken with fries for Q6. You can get a small slice of cake for Q2 at some of the local stores (tienda in Spanish). "'

Drink

El Caracol The best place for an ice cold beer and for watching the sunset. The food, drinks and the view are awesome! It's a hotel also. If you want to see new pics go to: http://elcaracolmonterico.hi5.com for information call +502 78481645, +502 78481646 and +502 59781018 ask for Milton Ambrocio. English spoken.

  • Mañanitas Beach Lounge Chill out atmosphere, great cocktails and food. Right on the beach at the end of the main street (Calle Principal).
  • Playa Club (Johnny's Place Hotel), calle de los hoteles (monterrico), ☏ +502 5812-0409. This new beach bar is located at Johnny's Place. It is open Fridays and Saturdays from 20:00. They have DJ and VJ with reggeaton, salsa, electro and houyse music. Cocktails are very good (ask for lady special!). The happy hour is from 20:00 till 23:00 every weekend. Spectacular fire show every Saturday with Cesar. 
  • El Cafe del Sol enjoy the sunset with a tasty tropical cocktail - on the best part of the beach.

A cold 600 ml plastic bottle of Coca Cola cost Q5 at the local stores.

Sleep

The beach hotels usually operate with different prices for weekends-weekdays. On the weekends it can be difficult to get a room at your hotel of choice. Book ahead, or be prepared to walk along the beach asking for available rooms. Children often will greet you as you arrive by bus and show you the way to a hotel but they do not know about the availability of the rooms and will expect a small tip of some kind.

  • Hotel El Delfin, a great budget option for backpackers or anyone looking for a great deal. Prices starting at Q40 per person. Delicious, clean, and cheap restaurant and a fun beach front bar perfect for chilling out. Lots of hammocks, so there is plenty of space to relax. It was taken over by a young couple, who are making the place more comfortable and friendly. English and Spanish are spoken by staff. Tel.: +502 5702-6701 hoteldelfinmonterrico@gmail.com Check out their new website: (http://www.hotel-el-delfin.com)
  • Hotel "Café del Sol". Excellent menus, nice and clean rooms, sunset-terrace on the beach, ask for mangrove-tours and horse-backriding. Q180/140. Tel +502 5810-0821 (http://www.cafe-del-sol.com/)
  • Pez de Oro. One of the best hotels in Monterrico 
  • El Mangle, Tel +502 5514-6517, +502 5490-1336. Q180/150 double weekend/weekdays. Nice grounds, roof terrace with hammocks. Restaurant serves clay oven pizza. Accepts Visa cards.
  • Hotel Baule Beach
  • Johnny's Place Hotel. Tel +502 5812-0409, +502 4369-6900. Q190/150 double weekend/weekdays. Dorms (~Q45 per bed), private rooms, pools, traditional bungalows, deluxe bungalows and private houses. Pools, great restaurant, beach soccer and volleyball every afternoon. Accepts VISA cards with a 5% surcharge. 
  • Hotel El Marlin, ☏ +502 5715-4934. (owner Antonio López). Pool and a small bar. Q150 double. 
  • Brisas del Mar, excellent value for money hotel with basic but clean van or aircon rooms, large swimming pool. From Q60 per night per person.

Go next

There are at least two different shuttles to Antigua (mini-buses full of mostly young backpacking gringos) that leave at 13:00 and 15:00 every day. They can be booked along Calle Principal (the signs are fairly obvious) for Q75 or US$10. It is cheaper to buy a roundtrip in Antigua for US$18 (contrary to what Lonely Planet says - the locals caught on).


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