Mount Athos

This 390-km² peninsula houses some 2,000 monks in 20 Eastern Orthodox monasteries, and 400 other men who work in the monasteries. An autonomous state under Greek sovereignty, entry into the area is strictly controlled and only male residents are allowed to live there and only male visitors are allowed.

Agio Oros (Holy Mountain) is a self-governed part of the Greek state, politically subject to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and to the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople as regards its religious aspect. The mountain is dedicated to the Holy Mother of God, and by an imperial document (typicon) the avaton was established and no female may set foot on the peninsula. Most of its inhabitants are Orthodox monks living in monasteries, sketae (small villages of cells), cells (individual homes), and hermitages. Those who are not members of the clergy include employees and workers, but also the numerous visitors to Agio Oros, who come for the purposes of meditation, prayer and study.

Of the 20 monasteries, one is Russian, one is Bulgarian, one is Serbian and the rest are Greek. There are also Romanian and Bulgarian sketae. Foreign monasteries and sketae are supported by their respective countries.

These monasteries possess holy relics, icons, frescoes and mosaics of great value. Although many have been lost in fires or stolen during raids, a vast array of historical texts, rare documents and manuscripts - all historical heirlooms - are kept in their libraries.

The first to settle here were iconodules, members of the clergy fleeing from the persecution of the iconoclasts. They came and lived as anchorites, unknown, and literally alone inside caves. Later, monasteries were built and were organised in a monastic state. Agio Oros became a refuge for those seeking to save their souls through fasting and praying, and its prestige grew to a point that even Byzantine emperors came and lived as monks here.

The right of autonomy of Agio Oros was granted gradually, initially by the Byzantine emperors Nikiforos Fokas and Ioannis Tsimiskis. This autonomy was maintained and even enhanced throughout the Ottoman rule up to this day. After World War I, a series of international treaties recognized the special status of the mountain. Although nominally part of Greece, special stipulations and exemptions apply in regard to Greece's accession to the European Community (now European Union).

Average visitors can stay for free at each monastery for one day, for a maximum of three nights/four days, pending acceptation of request and only after having secured a written permission (diamonitirion) from a dedicated bureau in Thessaloniki. Scholars and genuine Orthodox novices can obtain longer permissions.

Individually organizing logistics for a Mount Athos pilgrimage can be challenging, since monasteries may not also reply promptly to phone and e-mail inquiries, if at all. Check for updates at sites such as Athos Weblog. It may also be helpful to get in contact with people who have made recent pilgrimages to Mount Athos.

Greek is the main language spoken at Mount Athos. Some English is spoken by many monks, but some monks, especially at the smaller sketes, may speak only Greek. Thus, it may be helpful to at least know some basic Greek or to have a phrasebook ready.

Traditionally Russian is the second most common language on Athos after Greek, but as of 2023 there are few Russian pilgrims on Athos due to travel restrictions following Putin's invasion of Ukraine. Romanian is the third most common language on Athos after Greek and English.

Monks are typically greeted with the Greek word evlogíte (ευλογείτε, meaning "blessings"). A common response to evlogíte is en kyriō iesou (εν Κυρίω Ιησού, "in the Lord Jesus"), and some monks can get creative with their response as evlogíte can also be understood as an formal imperative verb ("please bless").

Serbian, Bulgarian, Romanian, and Russian are spoken in a few monasteries and sketes.

The monasteries on Mount Athos can be reached only by ferry, either from Ouranoupoli (for west coast monasteries) or from Ierissos for those on the east coast. Many visitors arrive at the port of Dafni (Daphne), from where they continue by bus to the "capital" Karyes. Smaller boats, people carriers and taxis ferry pilgrims from monastery to monastery. The Agia Anna (regular speed) and Mikra Agia Anna (speedboat) ferries also carry passengers from Dafni to Kafsokalyvia (location of the Holy Trinity Skete) at the southern tip of the Athos peninsula. For boat schedules, check here.

The Mikra Agia Anna speedboat arrives slightly ahead of the Agia Anna regular ferry at destinations along the southern part of the Athos peninsula, even though the latter starts 1.5 hours earlier. However, reservations, which can be made up to 7 days in advance, are necessary for the speedboat. No reservations are necessary for the regular ferry. Before boarding, be sure to purchase your ticket at the main ticket office near the Pilgrims' Bureau, and also have your diamonitirion to show to the ferry officer.

There are also sightseeing boats that do tours around the peninsula without landing; these require no permits, and are the only option for women who want to get a glimpse of Mount Athos.

On Mount Athos itself, the most convenient (and most popular) way of travel is the taxi-minibuses. They operate on a schedule, and they connect Dafni, Karyes, and most of the monasteries, using narrow roads that were made fairly recently. Few direct routes exist between Dafni and the monasteries, and, as such, most travelers will have a layover in Karyes for a couple of hours.

If you prefer to travel the old fashioned way, it is possible to walk from monastery to monastery. The longest walk is from Agia Anna to Great Lavra (6-7 hours). Many of the ancient footpaths, many of which have been improved by the Friends of Mount Athos society, are still clear but from time to time it will be necessary to walk on the roads. Footpath junctions are well signed, but they are almost all only in Greek. The Mount Athos Pilgrim Map (booklet and flat map) is available for hikers.

• The capital, Karyes: Highlights include the old church of Protaton, which has exceptional murals and a famous icon of the Virgin Mary, called Axion Estin, which is the household icon of the patron saint of the Holy Mountain.
• The monasteries, which in Mount Athos amount to twenty:

• Great Lavra (Μεγίστη Λαύρα Megísti Lávra): the oldest monastery in the Holy Mountain.
• Vatopédi (Βατοπέδι): the second oldest monastery. Vatopedi takes online reservations for overnight stays.
• Iviron (Ιβήρων): an ancient Georgian monastery, now populated by Greek monks.
• Chilandariou (Χιλανδαρίου, or Хиландар Hilandar in Serbian): a Serbian monastery, populated by Serbian monks.
• Dionysiou (Διονυσίου)
• Koutloumousiou (Κουτλουμούσι): popular with pilgrims due to its location within Karyes.
• Pantokratoros (Παντοκράτορος): known for their efforts to make monastic life accessible to new pilgrims.
• Xiropotamou (Ξηροποτάμου): known for their strict discipline and high-quality hospitality for pilgrims.
• Zographou (Ζωγράφου, Зограф Zograf in Bulgarian): a Bulgarian monastery, populated by Bulgarian monks.
• Dochiariou (Δοχειάριου)
• Karakalou (Καρακάλλου)
• Philotheou (Φιλοθέου)
• Simonos Petra (Σίμωνος Πέτρα or Σιμωνόπετρα): a Greek monastery, very cosmopolitan in its composition, including monks from many places over the world.
• Agiou Pavlou (Αγίου Παύλου)
• Stavronikita (Σταυρονικήτα)
• Xenophontos (Ξενοφώντος): a Greek monastery which has one of the biggest katholika (churches) on the Holy Mountain. Xenophontos requires online reservations for overnight stays.
• Osiou Grigoriou (Οσίου Γρηγορίου)
• Agiou Panteleimonos (Αγίου Παντελεήμονος, or Ρωσικό Rossikon): the Russian monastery, populated by Russian monks.
• Konstamonitou (Κωνσταμονίτου)
• The eighteenth monastery in rank - Esphigmenou (Εσφιγμένου) - is populated by monks under a schism dispute with the Patriarchate of Constantinople, and thus may not be open or suitable for visitors.

• The sketae, or cloisters, which in Mount Athos amount to at least a dozen:

• Saint John the Baptist (Romanian): a Romanian skete, more commonly known as Prodromos or Timiou Prodromou, which seems more like a monastery, and belongs to the Megísti Lavra monastery.
• Kafsokalivia: a Greek skete which belongs to the Megísti Lavra monastery.
• Agia Anna: the most important Greek skete in Mount Athos, quite a monastic village, which belongs to Megísti Lavra monastery.
• Mikra Agia Anna: a Greek skete which belongs to the Megísti Lavra monastery.
• Agiou Demetrios (Greek): a Greek skete which belongs to the Vatopedi monastery.
• Agiou Andreos: a Russian-built skete belonging to Vatopedi monastery, now mainly populated by Greek monks. It functions more like a monastery due to its size. It has one of the biggest katholikon (church) in the Holy Mountain. Popular among pilgrims due to its location within 20 minutes' walk from Karyes.
• Saint John the Baptist (Greek): a Greek skete which belongs to the Iviron monastery.
• Agiou Panteleimonos: a Greek skete which belongs to the Koutloumousiou monastery.
• Profiti Ilias: a Russian-built skete, now populated by Greek monks, which belongs to the Pantokratoros monastery, and can be seen at eyesight of it.
• Agiou Demetrios (Romanian): a Romanian skete, also known as Lacou Skiti or Lakkoskiti, which belongs to the Agiou Pavlou monastery, but is so far away from the main roads that monks there are extremely friendly to their few visitors.
• Nea Skiti: a Greek skete which belongs to the Agiou Pavlou monastery.
• Annunciation of the Theotokos: a Greek skete which belongs to the Xenophondos monastery.
• Bogoroditsa: a Bulgarian skete which belongs to the Agiou Panteleimonos monastery.

• The Morphonou Tower: a white marble tower which is the only remains of the Amalfion monastery, the only Latin monastery to exist in the Holy Mountain.
• Saint Athanasius' cave: 15 minutes walk away from Prodromos skete, it is the cave of the original monk from Mount Athos who founded the first monastery (Megísti Lavra) and originated the current monastic status quo of the Holy Mountain.

"Souvenirs" are mostly of religious nature. Shops are available at Dafni, Karyes and some monasteries. The following is an incomplete list of items you may buy to take with you:

• Icons (all prices and sizes)
• Prayer ropes (known as komboskini in Greek or chotki in Russian)
• Books about lives of the Saints
• Frankincense
• CDs or cassettes of monastic choirs (the most renowned from the Holy Mountain being the one from Simonos Petras)
• Walking sticks (engraved with Mount Athos emblem)
• Wine produced at Athos' vineyards

If you happen to buy prayer ropes or icons, don't miss the opportunity of having them blessed with a monastery's holy relics!

Provided you stay at the monasteries, or you are just passing by at the right time, you will eat meals and dinners with the monks in the monastery's refectory (trapeza). The food is normally extremely good, usually vegetarian but with cheese and bread. Mostly it will be bread, olives and vegetables, although occasionally fish or cheese may be served.

For drink, on fasting days (Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays) only water will be served. On non-fasting days Greek wine and/or Greek retsina will be available. If you happen to be on the monastery's saint feast day, a piece of sweet cake will surely be available as a dessert.

In order to eat at the monasteries, you must be attentive to eating schedules. These normally take place after their services, that is, after Vespers in the afternoon (at around 18:00) or after Divine Liturgy in the morning (at around 07:00). Still, these times are not exact, so you should ask at each monastery for the timetable, and if you arrive after eating times, you may ask the archontaris (guestmaster) for food.

It is a good idea to take additional supplies with you. They can be bought at Dafni or Karyes, but do not rely on having great variety available. It is very strongly recommended to stock up on food (preferably energy bars and bread) at Ouranoupoli, since Dafni and Karyes are the only settlements at Mount Athos that sell very limited selections of food. The ferries also have limited selections of coffee, juice, and bread.

You will surely enjoy the food because the monks are trained specialists at cooking, and the food is all freshly grown and healthy. Furthermore, eating takes place with a monk reading aloud lives of the saints or extracts from the Bible, so even if you don't understand the language, it will be an enjoyable experience.

Some of the larger monasteries sell wine and spirits. Beer, wine and spirits can also be purchased in Karyes or Dafni.

However, even though you may be able to purchase alcohol, it is considered inappropriate to drink in front of the monks. Practise moderation!

At the monasteries and sketes, you may be served water, grape juice, or sometimes strong alcoholic spirits (ouzo or tsipouro).

For drinking water, be sure to bring a refillable water bottle (1-2 litres) to fill with tap water, which is safe to drink at the monasteries. You may also occasionally be able to drink spring water at fountains along certain footpaths.

The only places to sleep in Mount Athos are the monasteries and sketae, which offer spartan dormitory-style accommodation in guesthouses (archontariki). Most, but not all, require reservations in advance. For a directory of the phone and fax numbers of the monasteries and sketae, check here and also the Friends of Mount Athos website.

Check in before 16:00 or risk being shut out! Simple meals are included at specific times. Showers and restrooms are shared by pilgrims. Most monasteries have hot water, but some of the more remote sketes may only offer cold showers. There have also been reports of bedbugs at a few of the monastery hostels.

No payment is expected for stays of one night, but donations are usually accepted, especially if you request and receive permission to stay longer.

Mount Athos is where monks go to escape the modern world, and as you're visiting as a guest, you have to respect their rules and behave as they expect you to. In general terms, monks expect pilgrims to visit them, and not tourists. When possible, try to keep a pious attitude, even if you are not Orthodox, and be sensitive that some monks may not want to discuss topics that seem too "worldly" for their concerns. The monks consider themselves to be living in a place without time, so when inquiring about chronological dates (e.g. the foundation date of the monastery) do so in a tactful way which avoids making you look touristy.

Conventions of behaviour vary somewhat from monastery to monastery, so when in doubt, ask the master of the guesthouse, the archontaris. In general:

• Do not hold your hands behind your back as if on a sight-seeing tour, hold them in front of you in a sign of reverence.
• Avoid engaging in activities which may be disrupting for the monks, like bathing in the sea or listening to loud music.
• Photography of monasteries is allowed, but photography of monks or inside churches is generally prohibited without explicit permission. In some monasteries (e.g. Agiou Panteleimonos) photography is banned in the whole monastery territory. On feast days, the presence of huge crowds result in many people taking photographs even inside the church, and in these cases the ban is not enforced. However, avoid taking photographs with flash or in a manner which may be annoying to the monks.
• Video filming is prohibited in all Mount Athos, however this is rarely enforced for low-quality video being made by point-and-shoot cameras. However, if you are filming with professional equipment, you will raise many suspicions that you are producing a sneak documentary about the Mountain!
• Dress respectfully: long trousers only; no shorts. Shirts and T-shirts with short sleeves are often allowed, although not in all monasteries. To be on the safe side, it is best to wear long sleeves, since monks at some of the more conservative sketes and monasteries may tell you to immediately cover up your arms. Dressing in white shoes may also be considered disrespectful. Plain clothing with dark colors (black, dark blue) are strongly recommended over light colors (white, pink). It is best to avoid clothing with fancy printed images and logos.
• While visitors are usually welcome at services, there may be space constraints in the summer high season, and non-Orthodox may be restricted to certain outer parts of the church (e.g. the exonarthex) or expected not to attend at all. Even if allowed in the services, non-Orthodox should abstain from partaking from the Holy Mysteries (Communion) or taking the antidoron (unconsecrated bread) at the end of the service, and should inquire before venerating relics if they are allowed to do so.

Because Athos is a monastic community with strict entry controls, violent crime is largely unheard of. Occasionally pilgrims can get rowdy due to the free-flowing alcohol at some establishments, but they do not mean harm and the right thing to do in that case is to politely distance yourself and inform the guestmaster.

Theft is also rare for the same reason of religious piety and access control. It is common to see neatly lined-up luggage on benches in public places, for example at the Karyes bus terminus and outside small shops and churches, where the owners of the luggage have put down their luggage temporarily in order to go on a short walk. Be sure to collect all your luggage when you return though: due to the sparse availability of transport, if you forget your luggage, it will be very difficult to retrieve it.

Important phone numbers for police stations, ports, and post offices can be found here.

When walking around Mount Athos, follow the usual safety tips and precautions for hiking. Some footpaths, especially in steep, rocky part of the southern peninsula, can be very steep and rocky with no guardrails. Bring enough food and water to last for the entire day when going on long-distance treks. It is very strongly recommended to stock up on food (preferably energy bars) at Ouranoupoli, since Dafni and Karyes are the only settlements at Mount Athos that sell very limited selections of food. The ferries also have limited selections of coffee, juice, and bread.

Many minor footpaths are unmarked, and they can be surprisingly deserted. When hiking through remote areas, it can be easy to get lost in remote areas such as the slopes of the Mount Athos peak or the Anti-Athonas area, so be sure to have GPS and bring a good map (the best one available in 2022 is the map of Mount Athos by Peter Howorth). Due to the rugged terrain, distances can seem much longer than they look on flat maps. Phone reception is not available in remote interior areas.

• The closest destinations to Mount Athos are the ones the ferries depart from: Ouranoupoli and Ierissos.
• The closest big city — and well worth a visit — is Thessaloniki.