Mrauk U

Mrauk U may seem to be a sleepy village today but not so long ago it was the capital of a reasonable sized empire where Portuguese, Dutch and French traders rubbed shoulders with the literati of Bengal and Mughal princes on the run.

Mrauk U was declared capital of the Arakan Kingdom in 1431. At its peak, Mrauk U controlled half of Bangladesh, modern day Rakhine State and the western part of Lower Burma. As the city grew, many pagodas and temples were built. Several of them remain, and are the main attraction of the city. The Arakan Kingdom fell in 1785, when it was defeated and conquered by the Burmese Empire. It was ceded to the British at the end of the First Anglo-Burmese War in 1826.

Before Mrauk U other kingdoms existed in the area. They allow for convenient day trips from Mrauk U, like Dhanyawaddy, Sambawet, Pyinsa, Vesali, Launggret, Parein and Kirt.

Visitors will note a distinct lack of billboards, which helps make Mrauk U appear like a more traditional Burmese town. The best time to visit is from November to mid-March when it's cooler in the morning with attractive mists.

The surrounding area is not restricted to foreigners anymore, except maybe for the Chin villages. Up to date information can be obtained from MTT (Myanmar Travel and Tours, governmental agency) in Yangon.

In Mrauk U you can walk, rent a bicycle (available from most hotels or along the street), hire a trishaw, tuk tuk or a horse cart. Renting a bicycle (2,000 kyat) is a good idea, especially if you want to see the sights out of town. It's also possible to rent a bike per day or per hour.

Foreign nationals must pay a 10,000 kyat city fee in Mrauk U. The official counter is in the Shitthaung Pagoda, but the government fee collectors will track you down sooner or later, e.g. at the royal palace, if you miss them, or you might be lucky.

For the 🌍 Royal Palace ruins go early in the morning. This will allow for some different pictures with the palace still wrapped in morning mist.

Just walking around, especially around Shitthaung gives you a good view of many picturesque and interesting sights. Walking or riding along the more remote tracks reveals sights normally not seen by tourists.

• 🌍 Shitthaung Pagoda (Ran Aung Zeya) (1 km northeast of the royal palace, between the other sides). This pagoda is still being used by local people. Many angled corridors can be found inside, along which interesting stone carving work can be admired and photographed, like the 550 Jakata (birth name of Buddha) reliefs. The name means 80,000 Buddhas, and so more than 80,000 (actually 84,000) displays of Buddha can be found here. The other name of the pagoda, Ran Aung Zeya, means "victory over the enemies", which refers to an attack of the Portuguese by sea before construction of the pagoda began, which was repelled. The pagoda was built in 1535 by king Mong Ba Gree (Minbun), who ruled from 1513 to 1553. Built in a year by 1,000 workers. Use the northern entrance and turn right immediately if you want to avoid the fee. However, walking towards the Buddha in the center, you will have to walk by the foreigner booth - or just walk back the same way.. 
• 🌍 Htukkam Thein Temple (Just opposite of Shitthaung). This temple was built in 1571 by king Minphalaung on sand stone. The entrance is to the east and the temple is famous for its internal stone sculptures. It inhabits many displays of live at the royal court. In addition, 140 Buddha statues are lines along the interestingly circling corridors. 
• 🌍 Mya Tan Zaung (west) (Northwest of Htukkam Thein Temple). Erected by king Minsawmon in 1430 and part of a sibling pagoda right next to it. 
• 🌍 Pitaka Taik (Further north from Shitthaung Pagoda). Great for sunset due to its location uphill, to whose feet Shitthaung and Htukkam Thein can be found. 
• 🌍 Sakya Man Aung (About 1 km northeast/east of the palace). This is an attractive pagoda. Dating to 1629, this pagoda was built by king Thirithudhammaraza. At a height of 33 m, this sight displays the ground layout of a lotus blossom. City pass might be checked here. 

• 🌍 Koe Thaung Temple (2.5 km northeast/east out of town). This used to be the biggest pagoda in Mrauk U but has fallen apart during the past centuries. 
• 🌍 Archaeological Museum (Just inside the royal palace). 09:00-16:30. A collection of artifacts from the Mrauk U sites: Buddhas, slabs with inscriptions, Wethali era coins, paintings that show Mrauk U in its heyday, and an excellent model of Mrauk U that will help you get your bearings. Crumbling walls are all that remains of the royal palace itself. 5,000 kyat for foreigners.. (updated Sep 2018)
• 🌍 Letse Kan Gate & Let Se Lake (sunset) (Walk straight south Ottama Rd through the no car zone (10-15 min) over the bridge until you reach the stadium). Also a great 🌍 sunset point (aim for the GPS marker) and allows for a stroll through the less touristic areas of the city. Great pictures of the nearby pagoda can be taken at dusk from the western side of the opposite sports ground. 
• 🌍 Sunrise Hill (Up the hill from Alodawpyi Monastery). Walk into the monastery and from there up the hill. This set of pagodas allow for a great view of Mrauk U and the surrounding area. Depending on the time of year, it could be that a lot of mist blocks your view. 

Out of the city further sites, such as Mrauk U itself, exist. They can be explored using local transport or by rented motorbike.

• 🌍 Wethali (8 km north of Mrauk U). Now a small village but fifteen hundred years ago Wethali was the capital of an ancient Arakan kingdom. While temples are probably buried under the many mounds that dot the area, the only thing to see today is the layout of the palace and a statue known as the Great Image of Hsu Taung Pre. 
• 🌍 Mahamuni Pagoda (35 km north of Mrauk U along bumpy roads). Once housed the Mahamuni Buddha that now resides in the Mahamuni Pagoda in Mandalay. There are several ancient artifacts on view here and at the small museum nearby. Hire a jeep ($30-50) for a day for Wethali and the Mahamuni Pagoda, or take a local pickup or shared taxi up north. 7,500 kyat per person for a tour Wethali and the Mahamuni Pagoda booked in town or at your guesthouse. 
• 🌍 Launggret and Parein (5.5 km southeast of Mrauk U take the road left). The trip there is done by boat and takes 30 minutes. The only things left to see are Taungmawtaung hill and the Kadothein shrine (15 km south). Further sights around Mrauk U like this are Pataw and Vesali. Take a local pickup or bus. 
• 🌍 Kyauktaw, Dhanywaddy & Salagiri Hill (45 km north of Mrauk U along the road to Sittwe). Salagiri Hill offers spectacular views of the river, nearby bridge and surrounding area. 

You will be quite busy with visiting all sights. However, just riding around with the bicycle in the nearby villages is a worthwhile experience. Around Mrauk U there are further sights and former kingdoms.

• 🌍 Hari Taung, Yonegyi St. Climb this hill for a great view of the underlying royal palace and the city. 
• Chin Villages. Day trips to semi-remote villages of the Chin people can be arranged at most hotels. The trip there takes about 3 h one-way, includes lunch and 2-3 villages. Tickets are most probably sold by your hotel or guesthouse, but they will inherit a steep extra fee. Better try the agents or cheaper guesthouses in the city centre and compare prices. $30-80 (per tour, 2-8 people). 

Change money before you get to Mrauk U as exchange rates are reportedly to be very bad. Likewise, withdraw money before Mrauk U, in case the ATM there is not working.

• 🌍 KBZ Bank. 09:30. ATM and money exchange 
• 🌍 Myoma Market (Southwest of the royal palace). 

Just walk around in the area of the guesthouses and near the market, and you will see many options. Also, many of the more price intensive hotels have their restaurants open to non-guests, with the expected cleanliness standards.

• 🌍 Mo Cherry Restaurant (follow the Yangon Sittwe Rd by the Narawat Hotel and Mrauk U Hotel east to the crossing, then turn right. After a few metres you see the restaurant on the left side). Offers good Chinese and semi-authentic Rakhine food. The food is good and less risky than the places in the market but, if you have the time explore other restaurants, often unnamed, and you'll be pleasantly surprised. 
• Shwe Moe Restaurant, near the Mrauk U post office on the main road. Local rice and curry are available starting from 1000 kyat and upwards. (updated Sep 2018)
• 🌍 For You, Min Bae Gyi St (On the way to Happy Garden on the left side). Highly recommended, offers a wide range of dishes. 1,000-3,000 kyat. 
• 🌍 Pyae Wa Restaurant, Min Bae Gyi St (West of the market). Authentic Rakhine food. The cashew chicken and butterfish is good. 

This region is quite remote, and therefore the prices are somewhat higher. A bottle of Myanmar beer is about 2,500 kyat.

Most guesthouses can be found along 🌍 Min Bar Gyi St.

Road travel is increasingly popular. In the past it was only possible to fly into Sittwe and take a boat to Mrauk U (or the other way around) due to travel restrictions for tourists. Tickets can be bought at the bus station, the agents in the city or your guesthouse/hotel, but compare prices.

• Sittwe – Not particularly interesting, more a transport hub for in- & outbound travel from & to Yangon. Many buses leave from the Highway Bus Station north of the city. But there are also local pickups and so available leaving starting from 07:00 until afternoon. They costs from 5000 kyats to 10,000 kyat. Also boats are available to Sittwe. One leaves in the morning at 07:00, takes 3 hr and costs 20,000 kyat. Try: 09 49660076, 09 421720296, www.mraukutraveler.com, www.mraukukyawmoe.com, (email-)mraukukyawmoe@gmail.com. For more information on boats have a look at #Get in.
• Taungup – Is nothing special, but there exist some tourist accommodation options. It can be a convenient hub for road travel between Mrauk U, Sittwe, Pyay and Ngapali. There are at least two buses a day heading for Ngapali with a stop in Taungup. The trip is quite unpleasant due to the terrible condition of the road: expect to arrive very tired, and try to get a decent seat in front. 12 hr, 15,000 kyat.
• Ngapali – Has the most beautiful beaches in Myanmar, but is mostly a resort place with few budget options available. There are at least two buses a day heading for Thandwe Bus Station, 6 km away from Ngapali at the highway, with a stop in Taungup. Please note the remark before about the terrible road conditions. 15 hr, 18,000 kyat.
• Bagan – One of the most famous attractions in Myanmar. There are no direct buses available to Bagan, you will have to take a bus to Magway (09:00 & 12:00, 16 hr, 24-27,000 kyat) or Mandalay (08:00 & 10:00) and get off at Magway or 🌍 Kyauk Padaung (19 h, same price as Mandalay). From there it should be easy to catch onward transport, pickup/van or another bus. Make sure the bus does go there (Kyauk Padaung), especially when boarding the bus. Often the ticket seller and the bus are different companies, because passengers are shuffled around depending on availability. The Kyauk Padaung route is preferable, because Kyauk Padaung is very close to Bagan and you can visit Mount Popa on the way to enjoy the sunrise on top of the pagoda. 20 hr, 28,000 kyat.
• Pyay – Famous for the nearby and ancient Pyu city. Mostly served by the morning buses to Yangon that start in Sittwe. 16 hr, 20,000 kyat.
• Mandalay – Famous for the U Bein Bridge, the Buddha face washing, as well as the nearby mountains by train. 09:00, 21 hr, 25,000-30,000 kyat.
• Yangon – Most buses to Yangon start in Sittwe and leave early morning between 06:00 & 09:00. You have to get to the bus station early, even at 05:30 to ensure you get a seat, or book sufficiently in advance. The first bus starting in Sittwe will arrive in Mrauk U around 07:00, The last bus is between 12:00 & 13:00. All buses will make a stop in Pyay after 16 h. Duration 24 hr, costs 25,000-30,000 kyat.