Nan

Archaeological evidence shows that prehistoric people inhabited the area, but it was not until the mid-14th century that several small meuangs (city-states) united to form Nanthaburi on the Nan River. This was around the same time that the Lan Xang (Million Elephants) kingdom was established in Laos and Luang Prabang was created. Nanthaburi, associated with the powerful Sukhothai kingdom, was given the title Wara Nakhon and played a significant role in the development of early Thai nationalism.

By the late 14th century, Nan had become one of the nine northern Thai-Lao principalities that formed Lan Na Thai, which is now known as Lanna. The city-state flourished under the name Chiang Klang (Middle City) in the 15th century. It was so named because of its location between Chiang Mai (New City) and Chiang Thong (Golden City, which is now Luang Prabang).

In 1558, the Burmese invaded and took control of the kingdom. They deported many of the inhabitants to Burma as slaves, and the city was completely deserted. It was not until 1786 that western Thailand was reclaimed from the Burmese, and the local dynasty regained sovereignty over Nan. However, it remained semi-autonomous until 1931 when it finally accepted the full dominion of Bangkok.

Visitors to contemporary Nan can still see parts of the old city wall and several early wats that date back to the Lanna period. The city's wats are unique and influenced by both Lanna and Tai Lü architecture. The Tai Lü people brought this architectural style from Xishuangbanna in China, where they originated from.

The city spreads out along around 4 km, between the airport at the north end of town and the bus station at the south end, but its historical and commercial centre is more compact. Its area follows roughly a north-south orientation, along the right bank of the River Nan. The two main axes of the town, more or less parallel, are Sumonthewarat Rd (the easternmost and the closest to the river) and the Mahayot Rd. The city's main monuments are located at the junction of the three parallel axes: Pha Kong Rd (west), Mahayot Rd (middle), and Sumonthewarat Rd (east) and Suriyapong Rd which is perpendicular to them. As for the main shops, they can be found along the Sumonthewarat Rd and its perpendicular, Anantaworattidet Rd.

In the town, three bridges connect the right bank to the left bank of the River Nan: the southernmost, the Sriboonruang Bridge, the middle one, the Pattana Paknue Bridge, under which are held the boat races, and the northernmost, the Nakorn Nan Pattana Bridge.

• Tourist Information Centre, Pha Kong Rd (opposite Wat Phumin). Daily, 08:00-17:00. 

🌍 Nan Airport (NNT) (at the north end of town, on the road to Pua-Thung Chang-Thai-Laos border (Rte 1080), about 1.5 km from downtown). (updated Mar 2024)

• Thai Smile connects to Nan from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK), Greater Bangkok.
• Air Asia connects to Nan from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) and Don Mueang Airport (DMK).l

The train station serving Nan is Den Chai in Phrae Province, 145 km from Nan. From the train station, take a songthaew parked in front of the station to Phrae bus station, about 30 min. Then catch a bus to Nan. There is also bus service directly to Nan from Den Chai. But you need to go to Den Chai bus station to take the bus.

The best way to get to Nan is by bus. Download the Green Bus app for easy booking and schedule inquiries. Green bus is the sole bus company servicing Nan in the north.

🌍 Main bus station (at the southern edge of town, at the end of a road perpendicular (turn left when arriving from Bangkok) to Wiangsa/Phrae/Bangkok Rd.). (updated Mar 2024)

• From Bangkok: Buses to and from Bangkok take between 10 and 13 hours, according to the type of bus.
• From Chiang Mai: 6–7 hours.
• From Chiang Rai: 5–6 hours @ 09:30 from the Old Bus Station in Chiang Rai, 164 baht.
• From Phrae: 2 hours
• From Phitsanulok: 5 hours @ 11:00 and 16:30
• From Laos: Bus from Pakbeng via Muang Ngeun, 6-8 hours including border crossing (Feb 2024).

One of the most efficient ways to get around the city is by car. The roads in Nan are typically spacious, well-maintained, and kept clean, making for a comfortable and smooth driving experience.

Nan’s charm is undeniable, but the best part is the region and nature around the province, so renting a motorbike is recommended.

There are a few places nearby the bus station. Ask around to find a motorbike.

Prices in Nan tend to be a bit higher than other regions. This is due to the isolation and lack of tourist infrastructure. Expect to pay 250-300 baht per day (compared to 150-200 in Pai or Chiang Mai).

Two other places are:

• Hill Tribe House, 430/1 Sumondhevaraj Rd, Nai Weing (on the far side of Nan River, but you can just call and they come and collect you), ☏ +66 81 472 4131. Do a "Nan Riding and Camping Tour". You can also just rent a motorcycle. They have only 125cc bikes.
• Ultimate Adventure, 77/1-2 Mahawong Rd. Has Honda Dreams 110cc (250 baht/day), Kawasaki D-Tracker 125cc (500 baht/day), and Kawasaki KlX 250cc (800 baht/day). All bikes are new.

• 🌍 Wat Phumin. The city of Nan's most famous wat is renowned for its cruciform ubosoth (or bot) which was constructed in 1596 and restored during the reign of Chao Ananta Vora Ritthi Det (1867-1875). It is the only temple built as if it were on the back of two immense snakes (or Nagas). Each of the four entrances is approached via a small corridor topped by a finely decorated point-shaped structure (underlining the royal origin of the temple) equipped with smoothly carved doors, with Chinese demon guards in the east, flowers in the north, and forest life motifs in the Lanna-style in the west and south. The wat's interior is impressive. It is also a good example of Thai Lue architecture. Well preserved murals of great value illustrating the Khattana Kumara (Jataka) on the north wall and the Nimi Jatakas on the west wall, as well as scenes of the local life of the time when they were painted by Thai Lue artists during the restoration of the temple at the end of the 19th century. Europeans are depicted in a reference to the arrival of the French, to whom the east of the Nan Valley area was yielded in 1893. (updated Oct 2018)
• 🌍 Wat Phaya Wat (วัดพญาวัด). An ancient religious site, it has rectangular chedi base on which Buddha states are placed around the chedi structure. Combined artistic influences of Lanna, Lan Chang, and native Nan can be detected. (updated Sep 2018)
• 🌍 Wat Nong Bua (วัดหนองบัว) (about 45 km north of Nan over road 101; turn left 750 m past km-sign 408). Built by Thai Lu craftsmen who had early migrated from southern China. Apart from the viharn which is adorned with elaborate carvings, there are also wall murals painted by Thai Lu artists some one hundred years ago. (updated Sep 2018)
• 🌍 Wat Phrathat Beng Sakat (วัดพระธาตุเบ็งสกัด). The main Buddha image is in the local style residing on the so-called Chukkachi base. The back of the Buddha image is decorated with a mirror in accordance with the Thai Lue belief. (updated Sep 2018)
• 🌍 Wat Hua Khuang (diagonally opposite Wat Phra That Chang Kham). This small wat comprises a distinctive Lanna / Lan Xang-style stupa with four Buddha niches, a wooden hàw trai, now used as a kùti (monk cell), and a noteworthy bòt with a Luang Prabang-style carved wooden veranda. A carved wooden ceiling and a huge naga altar can be found inside. Stylistic cues suggest this may be one of the city's oldest wats though the temple's founding date is unknown. 
• 🌍 Wat Min Muang (close to Wat Phumin on the same side of Suriyaphong Rd, further west). Its ubosoth's exterior is embellished with elegant bas-relief stucco while its interior is adorned with mural paintings depicting Nan people's way of life, painted by present-day local artists. The Holy City Pillar is enshrined in the four-sided Thai styled pavilion in front of the ubosoth. This pillar is 3 m high, stands on a carved gilded wooden base and is topped with a four-faced Brahma, representing the four virtues on Buddhism. It is an ancient Thai totem that is still very significant. The city pillars were probably erected as a ritual centre for agrarian fertility rites in ancient Thai towns and kingdoms, in the heart of the old cities and just next to the seat of power of a king or a chief. 
• 🌍 Wat Phaya Phu (on Phaya Phu Rd, west of the police station,). This wat was built during the reign of Pra Chao Phukheng and is about six centuries old. There is a big chedi behind the vihara where are enshrined two ancient Buddha images. The vihara's door are carved with image of mythical giant guards. 
• 🌍 Wat Phra That Chae Haeng (วัดพระธาตุแช่แห้ง) (2 km past the bridge that spans the Nan River, heading southeast out of town). This temple dates from 1355, built in the reign of Pray Kan Muang. It is the most sacred wat in Nan Province. It's set in a square-walled enclosure on top of a hill with a view of Nan and the valley. The Thai Lue influenced bôt features a triple-tiered roof with carved wooden eaves and dragon reliefs over the doors. A gilded Lanna-style stupa sits on a large square base next to the bôt with sides 22.5 m long; the entire stupa is 55.5 m high. 
• 🌍 Wat Phra That Chang Kham Woravihan (วัดพระธาตุช้างค้ำวรวิหาร), Pha Kong Rd (opposite the Nan National Museum). After Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, this wat is the second-most important temple in the city. The main viharn, reconstructed in 1458, has a huge seated Buddha image and faint murals. Also in the viharn is a set of Lanna-period scrolls inscribed (in Lanna script) not only with the usual Buddhist scriptures but also with the history, law and astrology of the time. A thammdat (a dhamma seat used by monks when teaching) sits to one side. The magnificent stupa behind the viharn dates from the 14th century, probably around the same time the temple was founded, It features 24 elephant supports similar to those seen in Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai. Next to the stupa is a small, insignificant bôt from the same era. Wat Phra That Chang Kham is also known for having the largest hàw trai (Tripitaka library) in Thailand, now empty. 
• 🌍 Wat Phra That Khao Noi (on top of Khao Noi hill, 2 km W of town). The hill is 90 m above Nan street level and is accessible by car. The recent temple buildings are nothing special but from the top of the hill, easily accessed by a road, one can see, side by side with a giant Buddha statue, Nan. 
• 🌍 Wat Suan Tan (วัดสวนตาล) (Suan Tan Rd). Supposedly established in 1456, the Wat Suan Tan (Palm Grove Monastery) is an interesting stupa of the 15th century (40 m high) which combines Hindu/Khmer style motives (stupa in form of prang) and, surmounting it, a Sukhothai-style motive in the shape of a lotus bud, modified in its current form in 1914. The heavily restored viharn contains the Phra Chao Thong Thipun, out of early Sukhothai-style bronze seated Buddha in Bhûmisparsha-Mudrâ. It measures 4.1 m and may have been ordered by the Chiang Mai sovereign Tilokaraj following his conquest of Nan in 1449. 

• Wat Phumin, Nan
• Inside Wat Phumin
• Wat Phumin (murals)
• Wat Phumin (murals)
• Wat Hua Khuang
• Wat Ming Muang
• Wat Phra That Chae Haeng
• Wat Phra That Chang Kham
• Wat Suan Tan

• NOT EXISTING LISTING IMAGE Boat Races. For centuries, long-boat racing have been held annually in provinces with a major waterway. Long-boat racing is one of the traditional rites which commemorates the end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat. It takes place mainly in the 10th and/or 11th lunar months (around Sep-Oct) when the water level is at its peak. Long-boat racing is considered a national sport. Its history can be traced back to Ayutthaya period, around 600 years ago. In that time, boat racing was only a way to keep boatmen fit for national defence. Racing boats are usually made from dugout tree trunks and can accommodate up to 60 oarsmen (commonly dressed in the same colour) in a double row. The festival attracts several hundreds of spectators. Trophies and prizes are given to the winning teams at the end. The races on the Nan River are colourful and unequalled because the boats are brightly adorned with imaginatively designed prows. The cheering squads on the river bank are usually rumbustious and joyful. 
• Namatsakan Phrathat Beng Sakat Fair (งานนมัสการพระธาตุเบ็งสกัด) is organized on the full night of the 4th northern lunar month (around January).
• Hok Peng Waisa Mahathat Chae Haeng Fair (งานประเพณี "หกเป็งไหว้สามหาธาตุแช่แห้ง") takes place on the full moon night of the 6th northern lunar month or the 4th central lunar month (around the end of February–March). Sky rockets are fired as an offering to the Buddha.
• Namatsakan Phrathat Khao Noi Fair (งานประเพณีนมัสการพระธาตุเขาน้อย) takes place on the full moon night of the 8th northern lunar month or the 6th central lunar month (around May). In the festival, there is a ceremony paying respect to Phrathat Khao Noi and sky rockets are fired as an offering to the Buddha.
• Namatsakan Song Nam Phrachao Thongthip Fair (งานประเพณีนมัสการสรงน้ำพระเจ้าทองทิพย์) at Wat Suan Tan during the Songkran festival on 12–15 April.
• Tan Kuai Salak, Hae Khua Tan or Khrua Than Festival (งานตานก๋วยสลาก หรืองานแห่คัวตาน หรือ ครัวทาน) Than Salak or Kuai Salak is an ancient tradition created in the Buddha's time. For the northern people, it is considered as a major local merit making ceremony possessing local uniqueness. Monks are invited to receive the offerings by drawing lots.
• Wai Phrathat Festival (งานประเพณีไหว้พระธาตุ). Nan is a town in the Lanna kingdom where Buddhism spread for a long period of time. Within the ancient city, both in Nan and in Pua Disrict, are wats on the hills. Every year, festivals paying respect to the important phrathats are organised as follows: 

The top activity in Nan is motorbiking around the area. There are numerous national parks and tons of nature. As always, side roads are safer (and more interesting) than highways so try to stick to those. In general, road conditions are excellent and far fewer drivers are on the roads than other regions.

There is an excellent loop accessible from Nan called the Bo Kluea loop. It is a stunning and empty circuit that could be a day trip, but recommended 2/3 days to allow yourself to stop and take all the wonderful pictures you can.

• D Best Super Store, 42/3 Suriyapong Rd (near Nan Museum), ☏ +66 54 757161, fax: +66 54 710727. With a small cinema. 
• Nara Department Store (Old Nara), 400/1 Sumon Dhevaraj Rd. 
• Nara Hyper Mark (New Nara), 155 Sumon Dhevaraj Rd, (opposite Soi Aranyawat 2), ☏ +66 54 711102. 09:00-21:00. The biggest department store in town with a parking lot. 
• Tesco Lotus, 320 Moo 4, Yantarakitkosol Rd (Hwy 101 to Phrae, about 2 km from town centre), ☏ +66 54 743131. 09:00-22:00. Department store. 

Good buys include local textiles, especially the Thai Lu weaving styles. Typical Thai Lu fabrics feature red and black designs on white cotton in floral, geometric and animal designs and also indigo and red on white. The lai naam lai (flowing-water design) shows stepped patterns representing streams, rivers and waterfalls. Other excellent quality textiles are the local Hmong appliqué and the Mien embroidery. Thin grass-and-bamboo baskets and mats and Hmong silverware are also available.

Nan is noted for making musical instruments which include the saloh (สะล้อ), a violin-like instrument, and the sung (ซึง), similar to a guitar. They are used in bands which can still be heard in certain restaurants.

Silverware, wood carving and hilltribe handicraft

The leading agricultural produce is the Som Si Thong (golden orange) (ส้มสีทอง) which are of the same species as oranges of the central region. Because of climatic differences, the local version is golden-skinned and more aromatic. They are in season in December.

• Hill Tribe House, 436 Sumonthewarat Rd, ☏ +66 14 72434, fax: +66 54 750691, hilltribehouse@yahoo.com. 
• Jaangtrakoon, Sumonthewarat Rd. Mainly clothes for sale here. 
• Lan Nan Som Noek, 347/7 Sumonthewarat Rd (no English sign). 
• Pongparn, 10/4 Suriyapong, ☏ +66 54 75733, +66 15 955777, pongparn@pongparn.com. 

• Easyintersoft, 345/8 Sumonthewarat Rd. Software and computer hardware. 
• Kodak, 347/4 Sumonthewarat Rd. Processing, passport photos, batteries. 

• Fresh Noodles stall, 90/3 Anantaworarittidet Rd (between 7-Eleven and the Ayuthaya Bank). 17:30-22:00. Thai food. 20-25 baht. 
• Jan Paa Lap Pet, 57 Sumonthewarat Rd (opposite Ampron Guesthouse, before Wat Pranete). 11:00-20:00. Thai (Isaan) food. 40-70 baht. 
• Night Market, Pha Kong Rd (just after the crossroads with Anantaworarittidet Rd (towards the Wat Suan Tan)). 17:30-02:00. Thai food. Many stalls, among which, the first one on the right side heading towards the Wat Suan Tan, serves up good value. Still on the right-hand side, but further on closer to the wat, is Luang’s stall. He's a charming man who speaks French, as the sign, Ici on parle français indicates. 20-50 baht. 
• No name, Mahayot Rd (heading north from Wat Suan Tan, before the Elephant Crossroads, on the right side, after the Mitsubishi dealer). 11:00-14:00. Thai food. Very good gai yang (grilled chicken), and som tam (papaya salad). 30-60 baht. 
• Ratchaphatsadu Market (between Sumonthewarat and Khao Luang Rd, close to the Dhevaraj Hotel). For take-away dishes (chicken or fish BBQ, Thai curries) and fresh fruit. 
• Tanaya Kitchen, 75/23-24 Anantaworarittidet Rd. 10:00-15:30; 17:00-20:00. Thai, Chinese, vegetarian food. English menu. 30-60 baht. 
• Yota Vegetarian Restaurant, Mahawong Rd. 07:00-15:00. Thai food. 10-30 baht. 

• Boat Restaurant, 21/1 Suan Tan Rd. 11:00-22:00. Western and Thai food and ice cream. English menu. Main dishes 40-120 baht, ice cream 30-130 baht. 
• Dhevee Coffee Shop, 466 Sumonthewarat Rd (in the Dhevaraj Hotel). 06:00-02:00. Western and Thai food. English menu. Breakfast buffet, 100 baht; lunch buffet, 59 baht. 
• DoReMi (Hot Pot Suki Shabu) (Sumonthewarat Rd, in the New Nara parking lot on the right). 17:00-22:00. Korean BBQ. Musical show from 19:30. All-you-can-eat dinner buffet, 69 baht. 
• 🌍 Nan Steakhouse, 15/7 ถนนสมุนเทวราช Sumon Thevarat Rd, ☏ +66 81 982 8500, info@nansteakhouse.com. 11:00-22:00 closed on Wednesdays. Steaks, pizza, barbecue. Serves only Western food. An unlikely find in this small provincial town. Will deliver orders over 300 baht. 6- or 10-inch pizzas, 70-265 baht; burger, fries 100 baht. 
• 🌍 Poom 3 (Pum 3, Da Dario), 115-7 Ananta Woraritthi Det, Pha Sing (off the hotel Sukkasem), ☏ +66-54-772-100. Western, Thai and Chinese food. English menu. 50-150 baht. 
• Suan Isan, Sumonthewarat Rd (turn left at the lane next to Rung Thip Sawoei). 11:00-23;00. Thai food. 30-90 baht. 

• 🌍 Amazing Guest House, 25/7 Rat Amnuay Rd, ☏ +66 54 710893, amazing_gh_nan@hotmail.com. Run by a friendly Thai family with a German son-in-law, in a quiet part of town outside the centre. Call ahead for free pickup from bus station or airport. Has bicycles for rent for 30-50 baht (regular) and 80-100 baht (mountain bike). Free Wi-Fi. 150-350 baht. 
• Ampron Guesthouse, 42/4 Sumonthewarat Rd, ☏ +66 54 772291. 180 baht for fan, 280 baht for air-con.. 
• 🌍 Nan Guesthouse, 57/15 Mahaphrom Rd (close to the museum and bus station), ☏ +66 54 771849, nanguesthouse@hotmail.com. Friendly, clean and quiet budget accommodation at a good location. There is a full time information desk for local sights and the staff is very helpful when asking about places to go. Free Wi-Fi. 200-350 baht (depends on air-con or fan, shared or private bathroom). Internet, 35 baht/hour. 
• P.K. Guest House, 33/12 Premprajarat Rd, ☏ +66 54 771999. Fan 150-250 baht, air-con 350 baht. Bicycle, 30 baht/day; motorbike, 180 baht/day. 
• Sabai Dee Guest House, Chao Fa Rd, Soi Aryawung 2 (close to the bus station), ☏ +66 83 8681982. 100-150 baht (depends on shared or private bathroom). 
• 🌍 The One House, 84 บ้านสวนหอม Pha Sing, Mueang Nan District, ☏ +66 856988802. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Family run hotel with a few nice and clean rooms with aircon and terrace. Quiet area but not far away from main sights. Free bicycles, small restaurant downstairs, thai/non thai breakfast. The owner speaks good english and can connect with a local moped rental. Taxi from/to airport available, it is possible to arrange tours around Nan and in the northern part of the region. 500-800 baht. (updated Feb 2024)

• Fahthanin Hotel, 303/5 Anantaworarittidet Rd, ☏ +66 54 757321-4. 450-600 baht. 
• Grand Mansion Hotel, Mahayot Rd (heading N, just after the Wat Suan Tan), ☏ +66 54 750510. UBC cable TV. 350-500 baht. 
• 🌍 Dhevaraj Hotel, 466 Sumon Dhevaraj Rd, ☏ +66 54 751577, fax: +66 54 771365, reservation@dvrht.com. 1,200-4,000 baht. 

• City Park Hotel, 99 Yantarakitkosol Road, Dutai District (on Hwy 101 to Phrae), ☏ +6654741343, fax: +66 54 773135. 600-3,000 baht. (updated Nov 2022)
• Pukha Nan Fa Hotel, 669 Sumon Dhevaraj Rd (city centre), ☏ +66 54 771111. 3,000-5,200 baht. 
• Sasidara Resort, 629 Moo 4 (on the way to Wat Pratat Khao Noi), ☏ +66 54 773936, +66 54 774483, fax: +66 54 773894. 900-2,500 baht.