Nevyansk

Nevyansk (formerly Nevyansky Zavod) is sited on the Neyva river, 75 km north of Ekaterinburg and 50 km south of Nizhny Tagil, and a short distance east of the Ural mountains. Though the town is surrounded by flat fields, gentle wooded hills are visible from any vantage point. Its population was 25,000, as of 2010.

Despite the discovery of iron ore in the mid-17th century, the official foundation date of Nevyansk is 1699, when Peter the Great commissioned the construction of state-owned ironworks that were completed in 1701. One year later, the factory was granted to Nikita Demidov, the future tycoon who was already renowned for his ironworks in Tula. Thanks to Demidov's efficient management, Nevyansk thrived throughout the 18th century, and remained the leader of the rapidly developing region in which the Demidov family was the undisputed master. They settled in Nevyansk, thus making it an unofficial capital (the official one had been Ekaterinburg since its foundation around 1725). This period is commemorated by the Leaning Tower, and by the first professional college in the Ural region (tsifirnaya shkola, later transferred to Nizhny Tagil).

The principal manufactured goods of the town were elaborate chests and, naturally, cast iron traded under the brand name "Old Sable".

By the end of the 18th century, the supplies of iron ore had diminished, local forests had been mostly cut down, and the empire of the Demidovs had disintegrated. More efficient iron production was performed in Nizhny Tagil, while industries in Nevyansk cast and forged the iron, and produced the gold and platinum that were discovered in early 19th century. The town's factory was renamed the "Nevyansk Mechanical Plant" (now the Nevyansk Machine Factory) and began to produce a variety of simple cast-iron items, such as girders, shovels, and wheels.

In the Soviet era, the plant was repurposed to produce ammunition and large-scale machinery for heavy industry. This reorganization halted the smelting works and distinguished Nevyansk, with its gorgeous skyline that boasted a tower and cathedral, from a raft of neighboring industrial towns dominated by lofty and rusty blast furnaces. In 1914, a cement factory was launched in a new district located a few kilometers southwest of Nevyansk.

While the lack of an unsightly rusty blast furnace can be seen as an advantage, by the same token Nevyansk is missing most of its historical buildings. Until the 1990s, few people recognized the historical significance of the town. The unique Leaning Tower belonged to the factory and might have been demolished if not for the continuous efforts of architecture buffs. The situation reversed itself: the factory has decayed, whereas the tower was proclaimed a major regional landmark. Ample funding facilitated its rapid renovation, making the tower fully accessible to the public. Active promotion of the tower as a local landmark drew many visitors and rendered Nevyansk a popular day trip, to the extent where it should perhaps be avoided on weekends.

The tourist business is largely focused on the Leaning Tower, but there are more things to see: for example, the artifacts from the Old Believers, who were allowed to reside in neighboring villages because of the pragmatically tolerant attitude of the Demidovs toward religion. The so-called Old Believers, who did not support the reform of the Russian Orthodox Church in the mid-17th century, are supposed to be the originators of Nevyansk icons, a distinct painting tradition that features soft hues, lavish gold decorations, and strictly canonical imagery. Nowadays, these icons are mostly showcased in the museums at Ekaterinburg, but you can also see them in Nevyansk or, preferably, in the village of Byngi which boasts authentic houses and an old church designed by Old Believers.

Tourists with less interest in history and arts enjoy numerous local crafts, especially the production of pottery.

Tourist information is available from the local museum. They also offer a great variety of guided tours, though they are generally given in Russian and largely exaggerate the real significance of the town.

Nevyansk is best accessible from Ekaterinburg and Nizhny Tagil.

Nevyansk features a simple rectangular layout, with the dam and dilapidated factory complex in the very center. The dammed Neyva river and the adjacent reservoir (literally translated from Russian as Nevyansk Pond) cut the town into western and eastern parts. Major streets in the western part are Lenina Street and Dzerzhinskogo Street (leading from Ekaterinburg), Stepana Razina Street (leading from Nizhny Tagil), Kirova Street (from Byngi and Tavolgi), and Krasnoarmeyskaya Street linking the train station to the historical center. In the eastern part, Oktyabr'skiy Avenue and Shevchenko Street lead to Rezh.

The town is relatively small and easily explored by foot. If you need a lift, flag down one of the minibuses running from the train station to the historical center, which is at the bus stop universam Yuzhny (универсам «Южный»), at 23 Lenina St.

• Maslikov Pottery Workshop, 39 Kuybysheva St., Nizhniye Tavolgi (14 km northeast of Nevyansk; second house on the left-hand side as you drive in), ☏ +7 912 614-88-37. Sergey Maslikov gives guided tours and master classes in his family-owned pottery workshop. While Sergey makes a variety of earthenware, his wife molds and paints clay toys. Their crafts are for sale, but you can also produce your own pottery free of charge (though using the potter's wheel is harder than it looks!). Arrange the visit in advance and bring work clothes. 
• Tavolga Earthenware (Таволжская керамика), Nizhniye Tavolgi and Verkhniye Tavolgi, ☏ +7 (34356) 3-92-26 (shop and tours), +7 (912) 253-44-49 (tours), +7 (34356) 3-92-10 (shop and tours). Tu-Su 10:00-17:00. A large-scale version of the potter's workshop, this enterprise nonetheless has one major strong point: facilities to feed, accommodate, and entertain large tour groups. Otherwise, you may deem it a bit disappointing to discover the same kind of primitive tableware and toys that are ubiquitous in gift shops (podarki) throughout the country. Facilities and exhibitions are located in the twin villages of Verkhniye Tavolgi and Nizhniye Tavolgi. Souvenir shops can be found in both villages, ensuring that nobody leaves without a purchase. 
• Under the aegis of the History and Architecture Museum, visitors can witness or try their hand at a variety of traditional handicrafts. More information on these workshops is available at the museum.
  • Forge, ☏ +7 912 2-14-14. 
  • Redwood workshop, 30 Svobody St, ☏ +7 922 612-37-83. 
  • Clay toys, ☏ +7 912 292-68-20. 
  • Felt boot workshop, 71 Volodarskogo St., ☏ +7 912 608-54-51. 
• Skiing and other kinds of alpine sports and activities are the stock in trade of the region west of Nevyansk, around Kirovgrad and Verkhny Tagil.

There is a variety of small shops in the town center where food and housewares can be had. Chain supermarkets have not reached Nevyansk yet.

• Bookstore:, 12 Malysheva St. 
• Bakeries, 2 Karla Marksa St. 11a M. Gor'kogo St. 
• Drinks and beverages, 1 Volodarskogo St. 

Simple souvenirs and local food specialties (gingerbread, jams) are on sale at the Leaning Tower. Lots of regional products—both useful, decorative, and totally useless—can be purchased from local artisans. If you're interested in purchasing Nevyansk icons, contact the workshop.

• 🌍 Fudison Nev'yansk, 23A Lenina St, ☏ +7 343 564 43 43. Pizza and hamburgers and sushi and things. 
• Staryy Sobol' (кафе «Старый соболь»), 23 Dzerzhinskogo St., ☏ +7 34356 2-43-20. 24/7. Positive reviews. 
• 🌍 Simba (кафе «Симба»), 30 Lenina St, ☏ +7 34356 2-23-48. A decent self-service cafe with hearty, freshly cooked meals—all served in normal dishes (no plastic stuff!) A good selection of ice-cream and desserts, as well. Main dishes: around 100 rubles (2010). 

Local beers are the dark and strong Vepr (Вепрь) with a snarling wild boar on the label, and the light Snezhinskoe (Снежинское). Both brands are sold as "live" and "unfiltered".

• Billiard (бильярд «7 луза»), 15a Sovetskaya St., ☏ +7 904 544-26-56. 12:00-03:00. 
• Sirius (развлекательный центр «Сириус»), 2 Oktyabrskiy Ave., ☏ +7 34356 2-11-44. Pool tables, disco. 

• Staryy Sobol (гостиница «Старый Соболь»). This hotel consists of two building, located respectively at:
  • 🌍 23 Dzerzhinskogo St., ☏ +7 34356 2-43-20. Has suites, but in a poor location. Double room: 1500 rubles. (updated Jan 2009)
  • 21 Profsoyuzov St., ☏ +7 34356 2-43-42. Suites. on the first floor of an ugly residential building close to the town center. Double room: 1200 rubles. (updated Jan 2010)
• Uraltransgaz (гостиница ЛПУ ООО Уралтрансгаз), 64 Kosmonavtov St., ☏ +7 34356 2-18-82. This guest house, owned by a locally-based company, is well away from the town center. 
• Hotel at Tavolga Earthenware (гостиница предприятия «Таволжская керамика»), Nizhniye Tavolgi (14km northwest of Nevyansk), ☏ +7 34356 3-92-26, +7 912 253-44-49. A cottage featuring two-bed and four-bed rooms, pool tables, and a sauna. 

Post codes: 62419*

Area code: 34356

• Byn'gi (Быньги́, accent the second syllable) — a former village of Old Believers that is 7 km northeast of Nevyansk. Nowadays, the distinction between Old Believers and "conventional" Russian Orthodox Christians is largely gone, but the churches are reminiscent of an era when minority schismatic groups were severely oppressed by the government. The Church of St. Nicholas (1789-1797) belongs to Moscow Patriarchate. It was built during a short period of religious tolerance; architecturally speaking, it seems almost to incorporate all the styles what were known to the locals. It is a strange but pretty amalgamation of the Baroque and Classical styles, accented with Byzantine flavors and topped off by an old-fashioned clock on the bell tower. The church was in service during the Soviet era, thereby preserving lots of Nevyansk icons and exhibiting them in their most natural ambience. Dim lights illuminate the usual stocks of cast iron that cover the floor and enclose the iconostasis. The abundance of dark metal amplifies the almost mystical atmosphere. The Kazan Church (late 19th century) is a much more bland style that could be described as "neo-Russian". This church still belongs to Old Believers (edinovertsy). On regular houses, elaborate wooden carvings abound.

Get in: minibuses depart from the bus station universam Yuzhny in the center of Nevyansk.

• Kunara — this village 18km south-east of Nevyansk, is known for the unusual House of Sergey Kirillov, a local artisan of old. He extrapolated on his chosen craft of woodcarving in his own home, peppering the house liberally with folk-art decorations, making it look like a gingerbread house or a birthday cake. There is no official museum, but Kirillov's widow is friendly to travellers.

Get in: minibuses #102 depart 8 times a day for Ayatka (Аятка) via Shayduriha (Шайдуриха).

• Lake Ayatskoe — a scenic lake with swampy shores and tiny islands. Perfect for fishing. Boats and other amenities are for rent from rangers who can be found on the northeastern shore near the village of Shayduriha (Шайдуриха)

Get in: by car only. Drive local roads via Shayduriha or take P352 and turn right toward the lake.

• Shurala — a village 6 km south of Nevyansk. This former industrial town boasts the bulky Classical-style Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (early 20th century) and gold mines in the surrounding area.

Get in: via local trains to Ekaterinburg, take off at the "419 km" station. Alternatively, take a bus bound for Kirovgrad.

• Verkhniye Tavolgi (Верхние Таволги) and Nizhniye Tavolgi (Нижние Таволги) — twin villages 12-14 km northeast of Nevyansk. These villages are famous for their artisans, especially potters, and have a hotel and a restaurant.

Get in: minibuses depart from universam Yuzhny bus station in the center of Nevyansk.

• Ekaterinburg — the capital of the Ural Federal District.
• Kirovgrad — an industrial town in the midst of copper smelters and ski resorts.
• Nizhny Tagil — a historic industrial city renowned for its museums, enchanting architecture, and impressive heavy industrial facilities.
• Verkh-Neyvinskiy — an old industrial settlement in the picturesque mountains of the Central Urals.