New Orleans/Carrollton

Carrollton is the section of New Orleans that is at the far end of Uptown from the French Quarter, between the Audubon & University District of New Orleans and Jefferson Parish. It is often considered part of Uptown, but it has its own history and traditions (including being a separate city in the 19th century), so it will be treated on its own here. The high ground of the "Carrollton Spur" was fortunately above the great flood which devastated much of the New Orleans area after Hurricane Katrina in 2005, leaving this charming neighborhood intact.

It is at the far end of the St. Charles Streetcar line (the green cars) whose other end is on Canal Street in the Central Business District. Carrollton is near Tulane and Loyola Universities and many students and professors live here and patronize the local businesses. It is a mixed residential/commercial neighborhood, with urban advantages where the trees are taller than most of the buildings. Carrollton has many small business and good restaurants. The food and shopping make it an attractive place for visitors to spend half a day in between streetcar tours.

The streetcar runs through Carrollton on Saint Charles, then turns on to Carrollton Avenue at a place known as The Riverbend. You see a cluster of restaurants, shops and businesses here. There are more a block up, beyond the one bit of late 20th-century architecture visible, the mini-strip mall with the Walgreens, behind which you'll find a small park surrounded by Victorian houses made into specialty shops and restaurants. The two other parts of Carrollton the visitor should know about are Maple Street, which parallels St. Charles, intersecting with Carrollton just inland from the Riverbend, with row of businesses running a pleasant 6 blocks down to Cherokee. The other business street is Oak Street, 4 blocks further inland (away from the river and St. Charles) than Maple extending on the opposite side of Carrollton Avenue. Long less upscale than Maple, there are now many trendy shops and restaurants on Oak as well.

Get in

From the French Quarter, Central Business District, or Uptown, take the St. Charles streetcar, and for the most central location get off at the Riverbend or Maple Street stop. Almost everything mentioned here will be within a maximum of 6 blocks walk in this pedestrian friendly neighborhood.

By car

Take the Carrollton Avenue Exit from Interstate 10, head in the "South" or "Uptown" direction. After a couple miles, at the intersection of Claiborne Avenue, Carrollton Avenue will change abruptly from an urban thoroughfare of 3 lanes each way to one lane in each direction with streetcar tracks down the grassy median and tall oaks and Victorian houses along either side, signalling that you have arrived in the Carrollton neighborhood. Continue another mile to the Riverbend with a cluster of shops where Carrollton ends at the Mississippi and the Streetcar turns on to St. Charles.

Parking is much less difficult than in the French Quarter, but you may sometimes have to park a block or so away from your destination. Notice that some areas have 2-hour parking for non-residents, with clearly marked signs-- giving you enough time for a meal or shopping, but don't leave your car long term.

Pay attention to the fact that many of the old streets, laid out long before the automobile, are one way. Some other side streets are so narrow that they should be one way but aren't, so be prepared to pull to the side to let cars coming the other direction pass if necessary.

See
  • Old Carrollton City Hall. The neoclassical building on Carrollton between Maple an Hampson is now a school.
  • John Kennedy Toole's House: Fans of the novel "A Confederacy of Dunces" can take a walk by the Pulitzer Prize winning author's former home on Hampson at the downtown river corner of Adams. There's a historic marker out front. Look from the sidewalk; it's still a private home.
  • Palmer Park, at Carrollton & Claiborne Avenues and the end of the streetcar line. The last Saturday of each month it hosts the Arts Market of New Orleans from 10AM to 4PM, with tents of arts and crafts vendors, refreshments, and free live music. Occasionally hosts other events and concerts.

Do

Walk around enjoying the Victorian residential architecture and plentiful flowering plants, sip coffee or eat a meal at an outdoor table on Carrollton Avenue while the old streetcars rumble by.

  • http://anthonybeantheater.com/ Anthony Bean Community Theater] 1333 S. Carrollton Ave. Check website for show schedule.
  • Po-Boy Festival. Big one day festival each November; Oak Street and the surrounding area is lined with food vendors, featuring great po-boy sandwiches and other local treats. Also free live bands and other special events. 

Live music
  • Carrollton Station, 8140 Willow Street, at Dublin a block up from Carrollton
  • Maple Leaf Bar, 8316 Oak, +1 504 866-9359 : Contemporary New Orleans brass bands like Rebirth, (who play here every Tuesday night when they are not traveling); also R&B, Cajun, Zydeco, and more at this funky legendary local music venue -- includes the college crowd when school is in; dancing; late-night shows; casual; funky. (Despite the name, remember it's on Oak Street, 3 blocks up from Carrollton, not Maple).

Buy

The main shopping areas are along Maple Street between Dublin and Cherokee with another cluster of shops on the block of Dublin Street on the river side of Maple, and Oak Street between Monroe and Carrollton with the blocks closest to Carrollton Avenue having the most shops. Some Carrollton favorites include:

  • Vieux Carre Hair Shop, 8224 Maple Street, ☏ +1 504 862-6936. Specialists in theatrical makeup, masks, and wigs. In business since 1877; moved from the French Quarter ("Vieux Carre") to Carrollton in 2002. 

Eat

Carrollton has some of New Orleans' finest restaurants; for the number and variety within a short walk of each other it is rivaled only by the French Quarter.

Budget
  • Camelia Grill 626 S. Carrollton just off St. Charles: A favorite with locals and visitors, it's an old style diner done New Orleans style. When there's a line it moves fast, but if it's dauntingly out the door remember that Carrollton has lots of other good eats within a short walk. Some think its best caught off hours and avoided during lunch rush and during Mardi Gras, when many people who don't seem to know anywhere else in town to eat line up here. 9am - midnight daily; stays open F & Sa nights until 2AM.
  • Chill Out Cafe, 729 Burdette St (at Maple St), ☏ +1 504 872-9628. M-F 10AM-8:30PM, Sa 9AM-8:30PM, Su 9AM-3PM. Asian fusion, omelettes, and waffles. 
  • China Orchid, 704 S. Carrollton (in the little mall at Hampson Street). Decent standard Chinese. Lunch & dinner weekdays, Dinner only Sunday.
  • Favori, 7507 Maple at Cherokee. New Orleans neighborhood deli, with "po boy" sandwiches and a few dishes like jambalaya. Eat there or take out; delivers in the neighborhood. Similar to the French Quarter's famous "Verdi Mart", but cleaner and doesn't sell booze. Closed Tuesdays. Tel +1 504 866-8140
  • Jazmine. Vietnamese including New Orleans Vietnamese po-boys, and bubble-tea. 614 S Carrollton Ave. Closed Mondays. Tel +1 504 866-9301
  • La Madeline, Carrollton Av. at St. Charles. Chain of French style cafes, this was one of its first locations and is a local favorite for breakfast; good lunch or dinner as well.
  • Lebanon's Cafe. 1506 S. Carrollton. Good Middle Eastern, half a step above Babylon in price 
  • Little Tokyo Small Plates & Noodle Bar, 1340 S Carrollton Ave, ☏ +1 504 861-6088. Good fresh Japanese, variety from light snacks to full meals. (They also have another location in Mid-City.) 
  • Live Oak Cafe, 8140 Oak St (at Dublin St), ☏ +1 504 265-0050. M-Sa 7AM-2PM, Su 9:30AM-3PM. Homemade breakfast and Po Boys. Often has a pianist or small combo playing live music in the mornings. 
  • Louisiana Pizza Kitchen, 615 S Carrollton Ave, ☏ +1 504 866-5900. Su-Th 11AM-9:30PM, F Sa 11AM-10PM. New Orleans style nouveau pizzas. 
  • Pepperoni's Cafe, 8123 Hampson St, ☏ +1 504 865-0336. M-F 11AM-10PM, Sa 8AM-10PM, Su 8AM-8PM. Pizza, calzones, pastas, salads, po-boys. 
  • Refuel Cafe, 8124 Hampson St, ☏ +1 504 872-0187. M 7AM-11AM, Tu-F 7AM-2PM, Sa Su 8:30AM-2PM. Breakfast, lunch and brunch. Omelettes, waffles, gourmet sandwiches, coffees and teas. Free Wi-Fi. 
  • Riccobono's Panola Street Cafe, 7801 Panola Street. 3 blocks down from Carrollton Avenue. Tucked away in a residential section of Carrollton distant from the neighborhood's other restaurants and businesses, Riccobono's does a thriving business of locals for breakfast and lunch. Omelettes, sandwiches, and salads are the specialties. 
  • Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.

Snacks
  • Maple Street Patisserie 7638 Maple Street: bakery with fresh breads and pastries. Also serves coffee. A neighborhood favorite. Also serves small variety of quality sandwiches for lunch. Tu-Sa 6AM-6PM, Su 6AM-noon.
  • Plum Street Sno-Balls. Plum at Burdette: a local delicacy during summer, finely shaved ice with your choice of many custom made syrups. A gourmet version of the northern "snow cone". On Plum Street, a pleasant 3 block walk down from Carrollton Avenue, open 2PM-dark during the long New Orleans summer. 

Coffee shops
  • PJ's, 7624 Maple St. Carrollton's favorite for upscale coffees. Their excellent iced coffee is great on a hot day. Wi-Fi. Now a local chain with branches around town; Maple Street was their first location 30 years ago. Open 6AM-10PM daily. 
  • Rue De La Course, 1140 S. Carollton, at the corner of Oak Street: Watch the people and streetcars go by from one of the outdoor tables, or sip indoors in the building which was built as a bank back in the 1910s. Look up the walls for the architectural detail of bats sipping coffee mugs. Wi-Fi. 6:30AM-midnight
  • Refuel Cafe, 8124 Hampson Street; see listing above.
  • Starbucks, 7700 Maple Street. National chain. 
  • Zotz Coffeehouse, 8210 Oak Street. Bohemian-gothy coffeehouse with a wide variety of snacks of varied quality. Open until 11PM. Rents computer time & internet access in addition to free Wi-Fi. +1 504 861-2224. 

Mid-range
  • Basil Leaf, 1438 S. Carrollton. Thai Cuisine
  • Boucherie, 8115 Jeannette (just up from the corner of Carrollton Avenue), ☏ +1 504 862-5514. Creative and tasty Southern cooking. It is housed in a cozy Creole cottage, but plans to move around the corner to Carrollton Avenue. Reservations recommended for evenings and weekends. 
  • Cowbell, 8801 Oak Street, ☏ +1 504 298-8689. Tu-Sa. At the far upper end of Oak Street half a dozen blocks up from Carrollton Avenue. Tasty grass-fed beef burgers and other casual quality meat dishes. 
  • Fresco's, 7625 Maple Street. Light Mediterranean and pizza. Lunch and dinner, open until 3AM. 
  • GB's Patio Bar and Grill, 8117 Maple Street, ☏ +1 504-861-0067. Great freshly-ground meat burgers. 
  • Hana Japanese Restaurant, 8116 Hampson. Sushi at the Riverbend.
  • Jacques Imo's, 8320 Oak Street. Trendy version of New Orleans food; people tend to either love or hate it. 
  • Jamila's, 7808 Maple St. Good quality hearty Mediterranean & Tunisian. 
  • La Macarena Pupuseria & Latin Cafe, 8120 Hampson St (half block up from Carrollton Avenue). Good fresh Central American style food. 
  • Maple Street Cafe, 7623 Maple. Upscale foods like filet mignon at a moderate price. 
  • One Restaurant and Lounge, 8132 Hampson St. Great modern Louisiana food. 

Splurge
  • Brigtsen's, 723 Dante St. One of New Orleans' finest. Reservations needed. 
  • Mat and Naddie's, 937 Leonidas St. (At the intersection of Leake Avenue and Freret Street, by the levee), ☏ +1 504 861-9600. Fresh local ingredients, eclectic decoration. 

Drink
  • Boucherie 8115 Jeanette. Mentioned above at "eat", the innovative small restaurant is also popular for quality cocktails.
  • Bruno's, Maple Street & Hillary, Old style college bar that's been here since the 1930s, attracts an older crowd early evenings and a young one late.
  • Carrollton Station, 8140 Willow Street. At Dublin a block up from Carrollton. 
  • Cooter Brown's', 509 S. Carrollton. At the riverbend, just towards the levee from where the St. Charles Streetcar turns on to Carrollton Avenue. One of the city's best beer selections, usually at least a few dozen on tap and hundreds in bottles. Also makes burgers & cheese fries through the night.
  • Maple Leaf Bar, 8316 Oak. One of the city's greatest neighborhood live music venues (see "Live Music" section above for more) -- hey, it's also a good bar. The main bar is up front; when things are hopping during live music they also open up the back bar. There's a lovely patio and courtyard in back. Relaxed atmosphere when there's no event going on; chill with a drink, or play a game of pool or chess. Poetry readings every Sunday at 2PM. 
  • Snake & Jake's Christmas Lounge, 7612 Oak St. Dimly lit shanty, which if you would ever see in the daylight while sober, you'd probably never go in, but if you're in the mood for a funky dive, it's just so darn fun around 3 - 4AM when your other favorites are starting to peter out. Fun bartenders; open 9PM 'til the sun comes up most days! On Oak St., a few blocks down from Carrollton Avenue, between Adams & Hillary Streets. 

Connect
  • Nix Branch, New Orleans Public Library, 1401 S. Carrollton Avenue (at Willow) Use an hour time on computers with internet access; $3 for visitors. M-Th 10AM - 6PM, Sa 10AM-5PM
  • PJ's Coffee, 7624 Maple. Coffee house has bring-your-own-computer wireless access. Open 6AM-11PM daily.
  • Rue de la Course, 1140 S. Carrollton. In shop Wi-Fi. 6:30AM - midnight
  • Zotz Coffeehouse, 8210 Oak Street. Computer time rental and internet access. Open til 2AM. +1 504 861-2224
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