Nordkalottleden

The trails goes through the homeland of the Sámi. Until motorized terrain vehicles where introduced, the Fell Sámi followed their herds as they moved from winter pastures to calving lands and on to the summer pastures. The goahtis and lávvus have been complemented by huts and houses, but some Sámi still move between winter and summer lands. Along the route you may encounter Sámi camps or villages. At some such locations you may be able to buy fish and bread, and perhaps some other produce. In the north, Northern Sámi is spoken (beside the national language and English), somewhere between Abisko and Vaisaluokta you cross the language border for Lule Sámi.

When you meet reindeer – and you will – avoid disturbing them. This is especially important in calving times and when they are gathered or form more close herds to wander to other pastures. In early summer the reindeer are gathered to mark the calves and in autumn for taking some to slaughter. A split herd means a lot of extra work. If a herd is coming towards you, sit down and wait quietly until it has passed. When not at calving grounds or on the move, the reindeer are less sensitive. They will still not let you near.

Dogs must be on a leash and are disallowed in many huts and have to stay on the trail in some areas. They might be disallowed on the route between Reisa and the tripoint (because dogs must pass the Finnish border at official border crossings?) and in Padjelanta.

The itinerary is about hiking in the summer, perhaps July to mid-September. In this period temperatures can be expected to vary between freezing and about +25°C (80°F). If you get cold weather with rain and wind you need proper gear, but you may as well get warm days with sunshine – or days with sunny weather between the showers.

DNT (ut.no) gives the season as May–Oct, but in early summer – even July at some points – there may still be quite some snow in the mountains, and high waters in the streams, and from late September snowfall becomes increasingly likely, and hiking without skis in deep snow is not nice. Off season some cabins are closed or unmanned, and provisions for sale may be scarce already shortly before. Also some bridges are removed when the summer season ends (often indicated on the map: "sommarbro"). At least if you go in May–June or October you should double check what to expect.

As the season for the trail is summer, you will not have much darkness in the night. In the south end of the trail you will probably not see the midnight sun, but there are white nights until early August, and even in mid-September there are just nine hours between dusk and dawn (as defined by "civil twilight"). In the north end the midnight sun persists until late July, white nights until mid-August, and even in mid-September natural "light pollution" will affect stargazing throughout the night.

It may be possible to ski the route in winter, and certainly is for some legs, but the issues involved are not handled here. On some legs the route has to be adjusted to avoid avalanches, and on most legs the markings are not made to be seen above the snow.

There are wilderness huts along all legs of this itinerary, but at some points the distance may be too much for one day's hiking (50 km between Røysvatn and Vaisaluokta, some more 30 km distances). Staying a night or two on an independent trek is allowed in all these huts, check if you want to stay longer or are arranging a commercial hike. Use the guest books found in the huts: they may be fun to read on rainy days, they provide information to fellow hikers and maintainers of the huts, and they help rescue teams direct their search to the right area (do note changes in your plans).

Unless you reserved a bed, you are not guaranteed one – but everyone is let in. In small huts without reservations, those who arrive early should put up their tent, to be ready to leave the hut to those who may arrive late, wet and tired – the worse the weather, the more reason to make sure there is room for latecomers. Those arriving late may ask you by all means to stay (and should do so in fould weather), and you just tighten up, but they have priority to facilities, and if they start putting up their tent, you have failed miserably.

Most lodgings below are linked to their web page (Norwegian only for DNT huts, learn to recognize and understand the standard info), but some information on those pages is default wordings, which may not be accurate. Use due care when interpreting them, and do not rely on descriptions matching reality.

A tent is a good safeguard if you have to camp because of bad weather or if some huts are crowded – and you might prefer camping in a nice spot by yourself when the weather is good.

Most cabins/huts in Norway are maintained by some branch of Den Norske Turistforening (DNT), along this trail Troms Turlag, Narvik og Omegn Turistforening or Sulitjelma og Omegn Turistforening. Most of the Norwegian huts on this itinerary are the unmanned obetjent variety, locked with the DNT key. Register your arrival first thing when using the DNT huts.

There are also a few huts and cabins maintained by the governemental Statskog on the northernmost leg. The small Statskog huts (usually called gamme, as they used to have earthen floors) are free and unlocked. There is also at least one nødbue, i.e. emergency or day hut, in the Narvik fells.

To get the DNT key, you might have to become member of DNT; membership of the Swedish STF, the Finnish Suomen Latu or a similar organisation may suffice. What "sister organisations" count seems to vary depending on whom you talk to, you could try yours. Membership is not required for actually using the huts, just for the key, so if somebody is there (or one in the company is member), you just pay a higher fee as non-member. If you intend to use huts, the membership fee (single adult: DNT 680 kr) can quickly pay back in the form of lower hut fees. The physical key is borrowed for a small deposit. In theory you might have to go to a DNT office, but you can get it in other ways, seemingly at least in Abisko and from the customs in Kilpisjärvi, perhaps even mailed. Check details from where you would like to get it (and return it, unclear how the deposit works if not the same place). There is now a possibility to reserve beds in many Norwegian cabins and those who reserved a bed have priority to the beds if they arrive before 21:00.

The Swedish unmanned huts are unlocked, but most Swedish huts are manned in season and have some service and opportunity to buy food. Large groups should announce their arrival beforehand. If you have paid in advance, have the receipt with you as there may be no online connections. Otherwise reserve cash for the manned huts, for the same reason. Unmanned huts can also be paid later (fill in a form available in the hut).

Finnish reservable huts (where you reserve a bed for a certain night) are locked and paid in advance, while Finnish unlocked huts are free. Neither type has personnel or food. The key for the reservable huts can be fetched in Kilpisjärvi (either the visitor centre or the customs, information differ), possibly also in Hetta. Other arrangements may be possible. Check also how to handle the deposit.

In the Finnish open wilderness huts and the Norwegian nødbue you need your own cutlery, mattress and sleeping bag (and pillow, if you want one), in the other huts own sheets mostly suffice – but you may need a tent and sleeping bags anyway on most legs. Accommodation in the more Spartan huts (including the Finnish reservable huts) is in bunk beds in a single shared room also acting as kitchen and living room. In Norway and Sweden there are often a few separate dormitories. There are spare mattresses in the Norwegian huts for those sleeping on the floor when the hut is crowded. Own toilet paper is often needed.

The Norwegian hytte typically have lighting by solar power. They may have USB outlets for your devices (to be used sparingly during the darker seasons, which probably isn't an issue). The Finnish huts and the more primitive lodgings have no lighting. In summer you probably do not need a torch in your tent, but you might want one in the huts.

Note: prices need updating (Narvik and Omegn 250 → 400, the others probably similarly).

The fee for lodging in the Troms Turlag huts is 300/120/60 kr/person for non-members, 150/60/0 for members, day visits non-members 60 kr, members 30 kr. In Narvik og Omegn huts the fees are 300/150/75, 150/75/-, camping by hut 150 if hut used, 75 otherwise, day visit 50. In Sulitjelma og Omegn huts the fees are 250/150/- for non-members, 150/75/- for members, 20 for day visits. In Finnish reservable huts the fee is €12/person. In the fjällstuga of Svenska Turistföreningen the price for non-members is 460–520/150 kr at Kungsleden (200–250 kr to camp using hut facilities, children 6–15 half price, day visit 100 kr or free), 410/150 kr elsewhere, members 360–420/50 kr at Kungsleden, 100 kr for camping using hut facilities.

In open wilderness huts, the last to arrive have an absolute right to the facilities – somebody arriving in the middle of the night is probably in dire need of shelter. Those who arrived earlier arrange room by tightening up or by going to sleep in their tent (if you arrive early, put it up, in case). The same is mostly true in the other huts, but they usually have more space.

On this trail, camping is allowed in most places. If you camp by a hut, other than a Finnish open wilderness hut, you should pay for using the facilities, but in Sweden and the Narvik fells the fee is significantly lower than for sleeping indoors. Camping in Malla Strict Nature Reserve and in Abisko National Park is allowed only by the huts. There may be other small areas with restrictions.

See also: Hiking in the Nordic countries#Fording

There are many rivers to be crossed on the route, even if it mostly follows the watersheds. The few large ones should have bridges, but many minor ones have to be forded – and also minor ones may be difficult to ford at high waters. Check the condition of bridges before using them, at least in the least busy areas.

For planning, online maps provided by DNT, Norwegian Kartverket, Finnish Metsähallitus and Swedish Lantmäteriet can be used. Some of these are useful also for navigation, but you do not want to rely on online connections; for the hike you will need proper maps. If you do have reliable electronic systems, including power and backup, you might get away with overview maps on paper for worst-case failures.

Usually the map ends at or close to the border, so you may need maps from all three countries. There is some tradeoff between how many maps to buy, how old the maps are, and how big a scale to afford. There may also be differences in how clearly the hiking infrastructure is marked.

There are electronic maps (and it could be wise to download them and test them on your device beforehand), but mind your batteries. Any data transfer and even idling will consume more power when the signal is weak, not to mention GPS receivers. Some electronic maps handle the border badly, showing also their blank areas instead of letting the map of the other country be seen.

Kautokeino is an important centre for Sámi culture, on the Finnmarksvidda high plateau.

This leg of the trail (50 km) goes over Finnmarkvidda to Reisavann (Ráisjávri, Raisjärvi), which is the source of the Reisa river. The pleteau is close to the tree line, so the often sparse fell birch forest gives way for fell heath even on low hills. There are many lakes and a lot of wetland. The trail mostly goes over the watershed area between the Reisa and Kautokeino/Alta rivers, but there are rivers that need fording, one of them quite deep. There are also mires, a few of them quite wet. There are duckboards and other aids at the worst places, but they are not well maintained and may be in awful condition.

The trailhead is at Buletjavri Camping Ground, some 2.5 km from Kautokeino centre. The next cabin is Madam Bongo's cabin (17 km; reachable by car, advance booking required). You could also continue 2 km to Lake Májanašjávri and camp wild. You might also want to camp e.g. between Jeageloaivi (550 m) and the Stáđđejohka river crossing (18.5 km). From there to Reisavann (11.5 km), the trail goes over Rivkkoš (600 m), enjoy the views. If you like another pace, there is no need to camp at the suggested locations.

• 🌍 Buletjávri Camping Ground (some 2.5 km south-south-west from Kautokeino centre). Camping ground (?) by Unna Buletjávrráš. Trailhead. 
• 🌍 Madam Bongo's/Čunovuohppi fell hut, ☏ +47 48-10-60-03 (to be checked). Reachable by road from Kautokeino. 17 km from Buletjavri by the trail. Lodging and meals on advance request. (updated Jul 2017)
• 🌍 Stáđđejohka (slopes of Jeageloaivi). Suggested camping site (wild camping). Free. 
• 🌍 Reisavann cabin (Ráisjávri). Check-in: 17:00, check-out: 17:00. Statskog cabin, half of which for rent, the other half for Fjelltjenesten staff. Electricity, refrigarator, beds for 6 persons. Outhouse, water from the lake. Distance to road 3 km (not maintained in winter; 40 km to Kautokeino by car). Advance booking necessary. Check key arrangement (fetch from Kautokeino, return in some way?). 550 kr/night. 

The next leg, from Reisavann to Saraelv (60 km), goes through Reisa National Park, first continuing on the plateau, partly above the treeline, then in the lush Reisa river valley. There you have the valley itself and the surrounding fells, tributaries dancing down the hillsides, vegetation lush for the latitude and odd geological formations. Elk, bear, lynx and wolverine call the valley home.

If waters are high the trail may be flooded in the valley and tributaries dangerous to ford, a higher unmarked route can then be used instead. There are some fords also before the valley, not all necessarily easy.

A tent may be necessary on this leg. There are huts along the trail, most unlocked and unmanned, but some are only for two persons. Lodging at Saraelv (Saraelv proper or Ovi Rashiin) should probably be reserved in advance, check key arrangements.

The first 10 km are through fell birch and willow forest as before, the next 10 km on hillsides and ridges mostly above the treeline, with a suggested campsite (15 km from Reisavann cabin). At Luvddiidjohka you can opt for a night in a small turf hut (2 persons).

Before going down in the river valley you can choose between the official trail or a path going close to the impressing 🌍 Imofossen Falls of Reisa. Beside the falls themselves there are odd geological features caused by them. There is a small turf hut (2 persons) upstream from the falls. After the falls the river flows in a canyon for a kilometre and the path follows close to its edge – it can be dangerous, especially after rain when rocks are slippery. At some points along the path you should have good views down the Reisa valley (check where!). If the trail seems problematic you could view the falls as a sidetrip instead.

Regardless of what path you took, you will then descend into the Reisa river valley, where a suspension bridge leads over the river. Avoid the scree just before the bridge. The Nedrefosshytta hut (30 km from Reisavann) is close by after the bridge. It might be possible to have boat transport from here to Saraelv or Storslett.

The Mållesfossen Falls of the tributary Mollesjohka are one of the highest waterfalls in Europe (269 m). You might want to make a sidetrip.

The trail continues through the valley to Saraelv.

• 🌍 Njuolgavárri-Vuolavárit (at a stream between the hills). Suggested camp site (wild camping) Free. 
• 🌍 Luovdigammen (Arturgammen) (turn right after crossing Luvddiidjohka, the hut is some 300–400 m upstream). Small hut, space for 2 persons, wood heated stove. Free. 
• 🌍 Imogammen (Imogammen). Small turf hut by Imofossen. Two persons. Free. 
• 🌍 Nedrefosshytta (3 km downstream from Imofossen). Locked: code lock, DNT key for outhouses. Beds for 16. Separate room for those with dog. Reservation button at the hut's web page, which forwards to reservations.visbook.com. You get the lock code after having reserved and paid a bed. 
• 🌍 Vuommádatkoia (Vuomatakka) (at Nikolaistilla). Two persons. Free. 
• 🌍 Sieimma (Sieimahytta) (9 km from Saraelv). Four persons. Free. 
• 🌍 Nordkalottstua (at Ovi Rashiin; Øvre Kjerkestilla, 1 km upstream from Saraelv, reachable by car or bike in summer), ☏ +47 77-58-82-50 (M–F 10:00–14:00), halti@reisanasjonalpark.no. 11 Jun–23 Aug (2021): Tu F 10:00–18:00, Th 10:00–16:00. Cabin at the local visitor centre for the national park, which is manned some days in season. Locked (code lock), reservations by phone to the main visitor centre Halti or from staff when manned. Beds for 4 persons. 
• 🌍 Saraelv, ☏ +47 930-38-384. Should be reserved in advance (phone or via inatur.no). 

The distance from Saraelv to Kilpisjärvi is some 90 km, 24 km more with the side trip to Halti. Most of the leg is above the treeline, with little natural shelter and few landmarks in low visibility conditions. Be prepared to cope with fog and storms. From Pitsusjärvi onwards (the trail from Kilpisjärvi to Halti) huts can be crowded in season. Any waste should from the leg should be carried out to Kilpisjärvi. Firewood provided for the huts must not be used for campfires. Use gas sparingly and only for cooking.

At Saraelv the trail leaves the Reisa valley. It follows an ATV track over easy treeless fell heath terrain to Somasjärvi, 35 km from Saraelv. There should be a hut on the Norwegian side, Somashytta, but it might be closed. The border to Finland crosses the lake. The first Finnish hut, Kopmajoki, turns up a few kilometres farther. You are now in Käsivarsi Wilderness Area.

At Pitsusjärvi there is a hut, and the trail forks: turn to the north for a 2·12 km sidetrip to Halti/Hálde, or continue to the south. The highest point of Finland is on the Halti hillside and several of Finland's highest fells are nearby. The top of Halti itself is in Norway, but there is a book to sign at the border. You can use the Halti hut on the way, do not confuse it with the remains of a former hut nearby.

The trail to Kilpisjärvi leads to the south towards Meekonjärvi along Pitsusjoki. About 1.5 km after the Pitsusjärvi lake, there are the 17 m high 🌍 Pihtsusköngäs Falls (Pihtsuskordsi). Near the gorge the trail turns away from Pitsusjoki. Early in 2022 you might want to take the path that continues downstream, or a later crossing one, to ford Pihtsusjoki and Urtasjoki near their mouths, as a flood has destroyed the Vuomakasjoki bridge. You can also continue by the trail and ford Vuomakasjoki. A new bridge is due to be built in 2022.

At Meekonjärvi there is a day hut, a reservable hut and an open wilderness hut, spread around by the shore. There is a demanding canoeing route from here down to Karesuvanto and optionally all the way to Tornio/Haparanda by the Gulf of Bothnia – demanding also in that you'd have to carry the canoes to here from Kilpisjärvi if you go independently.

From Meekonjärvi the trail continues via the Kuonjarjoki and Saarijärvi huts, taking a shortcut through Norway, and ends up in Kilpisjärvi. Saana, overlooking Kilpisjärvi, is one of the most famous fells in Finland. The trail to the top used to feature the longest stairways in the country, removed around 2020.

Close to Kilpisjärvi there are several trails. Depending on your plans you might want to take one leading to the intended end of the village, to avoid a 5 km hike along the road to get to your dinner or bed.

• 🌍 Goapmajohka (Kopmajoki). Open wilderness hut, 6 persons. Stove and gas cooker. Free. 
• 🌍 Bihčosjávri hut (Pitsusjärvi, Pihtsusjärvi). Wilderness hut with open and reservable part. 
• 🌍 Háldi (Halti). Open wilderness hut, 8 persons. Formerly used by the border guard. Stove and gas cooker. Reservable part for 13 persons. Free/€12. 
• 🌍 Háldi old hut (300 m farther, at the north-western shore). Open wilderness hut, 4 persons. Stove and gas cooker. 
• 🌍 Megonjávri reservable hut (Meekonjärvi reservable hut), ☏ +358 20-639-7990 (booking), kilpisjarvi@metsa.fi. Bunk beds with mattresses, pillows and blankets. Stove and gas cooker. Basic cookware (pot, frying pan, coffee pot). Pets are not allowed. Check where to fetch the key (probably in Kilpisjärvi, but info on exact location is conflicting, and you might be able to make some arrangement). In the yard is also a day hut for those on commercial tours. €12/person. 
• 🌍 Megonjávri open wilderness hut (Meekonjärvi open wilderness hut) (500 m farther from the reservable hut). Stove and gas cooker. Free. 
• 🌍 Guonjarjohka (Kuonjarjoki). Open wilderness hut, 10 persons, reservable part likewise for 10 persons. Stove and gas cooker. Free/€12. 
• 🌍 Saarijärvi. Open wilderness hut, 10 persons, reservable part likewise for 10 persons. Stove and gas cooker. Free/€12. 

In Kilpisjärvi there are restaurants and cafés, shops and commercial lodgings. The fell Saana dominates the view. The Kilpisjärvi Visitor Centre has information, exhibitions and films on Malla Strict Nature Reserve, Saana Nature Reserve and Research Area, Käsivarsi Wilderness Area and the residents of the area. Some souvenirs.

The Swedish Pältsa hut belongs to STF and in Innset there is accommodation at the husky farm not associated with DNT. Otherwise the huts mentioned here belong to Troms Turlag and are unmanned and locked with the DNT key. You can get the key e.g. from the customs in Kilpisjärvi, for a deposit. The key for the reservable department of the Kuohkimajärvi hut can be got at the customs or from the visitor centre (which one?). Check arrangements.

There are several fells reaching 1400 or 1500 m, the trail mostly staying below 1000 m. Landscapes are varied, with fell birch forest, wetland (with or without duckboards), easy to walk fell heath (moorland) and higher rocky stretches. There are bridges, but also rivers that have to be forded. Most fords are easy under normal circumstances, but early in the season or in rainy summers some may be problematic.

The trail from Kilpisjärvi leads through Malla strict nature reserve to the tripoint between Finland, Norway and Sweden (11 km). In the reserve deviating from the trail is not permitted. There is a side trip (1.5 km) to Pikku-Malla, with a good view over the lake. In the summer one can also take a boat over Lake Kilpisjärvi, leaving only 3 km walking. There is a hut at Kuohkimajärvi near the tripoint. There is a parallel trail on the Norwegian side, from the E8 road to Goldahytta, do not confuse the two when getting advice.

The trail enters Sweden at the tripoint and soon, after the nearly 1000 m Tuipali hill, descends into the lush Pältsa valley. The Pältsa hut (14 km) is manned in season, with sauna. It was used as a base for Norwegian resistance during WW2. The Pältsan fell (Bealčán) has 1404 and 1444 m peaks, the former a Nunatak during the last ice age, protruding through the ice.

The E1, which has coincided with Nordkalottleden from Kautokeino enters Norway instead, for a more northern route via Goldahytta hut 3 km from the tripoint (Stordalen in the west was a refugee route during WW2, as there are plenty of hiding places; Finnish mobile phone coverage) and Gappohytta hut 14 km farther, below the 🌍 Paras fell (Sámi: Bárrás). The two trails meet again just before Rostahytta in Norway (12 km after Pältsa). The stretch where Nordkalottrutten does not follow other trails is only a few years old and not necessarily yet worn, follow markings and your map. Somewhat before Rostahytta, there is a high suspension bridge over Iselva ("ice river") – if you have acrophobia, beware.

Now the trail leads up to rocky terrain. Then you descend into Øvre Dividal National Park and reach the Dærttahytta hut (18 km). The national park is reindeer calving lands and reindeer summer pasture for Swedish Sámi, but is also visited by Norwegian recreational fishermen and hunters. The wolverine population is about the densest in all the Nordic countries. There is also bear, lynx and Arctic fox.

There are two bigger fords and a high saddle, then you descend into the lush Dividal valley. The next hut, Dividalshytta (24 km) is on a fell slope with magnificient views.

There is a suspension bridge over the Divielva river. Then you follow the tributary Ánjajohka/Anjavasselva upstream and slowly reach open fell again. At the end of the day the trail ascends to the open fell again. You leave the river and reach Vuomahytta by the lake Vuomajávri (18 km). The trail continues slowly ascending to some 950 m before abruptly descending to the Gaskashytta hut (17 km).

After Gaskashytta you cross the Luotnajohka rivers by bridge and continue by the Altevatnet/Alddesjávri lake by a muddy path, cross the Koievasselva by bridge, continue across some wetland and by bridge over Vasskardselva. When you reach Altevasshytta (13 km) close to the Altevass dam, you are 140 km from Kilpisjärvi. There are quite a few summer cottages by the lake (at the western end, farther along the southern shore), but the year-round inhabitants of Innset are few.

From Altevasshytta you can follow the road 5 km downstream to reach the small village Innset with a husky business with accommodation, sauna and other services, and the 35 km road to Setermoen, the Bardu municipal centre on E6 (transport with the husky business 700 kr, taxi a little more, there might also be a bus).

Otherwise you continue south towards Abisko in Sweden.

• 🌍 Guohkkemašjávri wilderness hut (Kuohkimajärvi) (near the tripoint). Wilderness hut and reservable wilderness hut. Wood stove, gas cooker and kitchen utensils. Bunk beds. Free or €12/person. 
• 🌍 Pältsa Mountain Cabin, bokningen@stfturist.se. 25 March–24 April and 1 July–11 September (2022). STF manned hut. Sauna. Pets allowed in some rooms. Payment in cash only. 
• 🌍 Goldahytta hut. DNT obetjent cabin, 22 persons, DNT key. Annex for those with dog. Mobile phone coverage from the Finnish network. On Grensesømmen. 
• 🌍 Gappohytta hut. DNT obetjent cabins, built 1959, 1984, and the annex for dogs 2008; 24 persons, DNT key. 
• 🌍 Rostahytta. DNT obetjent cabin. Cabins with 33 beds in all, built 1964–2018. On Nordkalottruta, Grensesømmen and E1. Mobile phone coverage with Telenor 100 m from the cabin towards Iselva, with Telia farther towards Innset, just before you lose the cabin from sight. DNT key. The cabin built 2007 has USB power outlets. 
• 🌍 Dærtahytta. DNT obetjent cabin, 23 persons, DNT key. Annex for those with dog. On Nordkalottruta, Grensesømmen and E1. 
• 🌍 Dividalshytta. DNT obetjent cabins, from 1966 and 1978; 16 beds, DNT key. Between Njunis (1717 m), Kistefjell (1632 m) and Jerta (1428 m). No mobile phone coverage. 
• 🌍 Vuomahytta. DNT obetjent cabins between Njunis (1717 m) to the north and Kistefjell (1632 m) to the south. DNT key. Vuomastua built 2018 sleeps 15, Vuomahytta built 1989 sleeps 10. Mobile coverage farther on the trail. Annex for dogs. On Nordkalottruta, E1 and Grensesømmen. 
• 🌍 Gaskashytta. DNT obetjent cabins built 1970 and 2002, 10+8 beds. Dogs stay in the entryway of the newer cabin. Good mobile phone coverage. DNT key. On Nordkalottruta, E1 and Grensesømmen. 
• 🌍 Altevasshytta. DNT obetjent cabin, 14+3 beds. DNT key. Good mobile phone coverage. A small annex for those with dogs. On Nordkalottruta, E1 and Grensesømmen. Across Altevasset is Salvasskardfjellet (1336 m), behind the cabins is Kopparskardtinden (1387 m). 
• 🌍 Huskyfarm Innset, Innset, 9360 Bardu, ☏ +47 77-18-45-03, info@huskyfarm.de. Former farm transformed to tourism business. Also offers just lodging, sauna and laundry. 360 kr/person (linen not included), children 7–16 150 kr, cabin (6 pers.) 1650 kr. 

There is a road below the Altevatnet dam. You will then walk a somewhat less used trail, with three river crossings, which should have bridges (but they have sometimes been damaged by floods). Above you is the 1336 m Salvasskardfjellet (Northern Sámi: Noaidun). Halfway to the Swedish border, in the Láirevággi pass at 960 m, you enter Rohkusborri National Park.

28 km after Altevatnet you reach the last Norwegian cabin, Lappjordhytta. After the hut there is a steep descend towards the Swedish border and Torne träsk, the seventh largest lake in Sweden (332 km², at 340 m). There is a small open hut at the shore, Pålnostugan, unmanned with emergency phone. The trail continues more or less along the shore and then to higher terrain. The last distance to Abisko the trail follows the Malmbanan railway between Luleå and Narvik, passing the Björkliden resort.

• 🌍 Lappjordhytta. DNT obetjent hytte. Code lock, reservations needed. Mobile phone coverage from Sweden. On Grensesømmen, Nordkalottleden and E1. 
• Pålnostugan. Unmanned wilderness hut. Emergency phone. 
• Abisko. (updated Mar 2018)

The village Abisko (Ábeskovvu) has a station on the railway (Abisko Östra) and Abisko turiststation another, by the visitor centre for the very popular Abisko National Park and a fjällstation, with lodgings for some 300 tourists. Abisko is also the northern trailhead to Kungsleden, the most famous hiking trail in Sweden.

The distance from Abisko to Vaisaluokta by the trail is nearly 300 km. It first leads by the famous and popular Kungsleden to Sälka, then up in the wild Narvik mountains. Most of it is above the treeline, partly around 1000 m high (with no lower valleys in easy reach). Make sure you are prepared. You can get some provisions in Sälka, but you might want to check in Abisko what they have (the folks in Abisko should at least have an idea).

From Abisko to Sälka (60 km), the trail coincides with Kungsleden, the most well-known hiking trail of Sweden. The "huts" are manned, selling some provisions, and with capacity for tens of hikers (spread out among a few buildings). Between the proper cabins there are also lesser huts and shelters. The hiking/running event Fjällräven Classics (from Nikkaluokta via Sälka to Abisko) has thousands of participants. While you will see people, unless you hit that event there is still plenty of space between the fells. You can enjoy sauna at all (?) the cabins (probably the Swedish version, less hot than the Finnish).

Soon after Abiskojaure fjällstuga (13 km) you reach the treeline. After the next cabin, Alesjaure fjällstuga (20 km) you are definitely above it. The trail continues via Tjäktja fjällstuga (12 km) to Sälka fjällstuga (12 km). The pass after Tjäktja fjällstuga is the highest point of Kungsleden at 1100 m. After Sälka, Kungsleden continues to the south passing Sweden's highest mountain, Kebnekaise (2093 m; 10 km from Sälka), while Nordkalottleden continues westwards to Norway.

If you want to end this leg of Nordkalottleden, then continue along Kungsleden to Singistugorna, then turn east towards Kebnekaise fjällstation and Nikkaluokta (35 km by trail from Sälka). Singistugorna and the fjällstation are the usual bases for climbing Kebnekaise. Nikkaluokta is a small settlement, with bus to Kiruna. See the Kebnekaise article.

All the cabins from Abisko to Sälka have emergency phones.

• 🌍 Abiskojaure fjällstuga. Sauna and shop. 
• 🌍 Alesjaure fjällstuga. Sauna and shop. 
• 🌍 Tjäktja fjällstuga. 
• 🌍 Sälka fjällstuga. Sauna and shop. 

Sälka is probably the last hut with food for sale before returning to Sweden after a week of trekking. The Norwegian ones from Gautelishytta onwards belong to Narvik og Omegn Turistforening. They are unmanned and have neither food nor emergency phones. You need the DNT key for them.

From Sälka the trail leads by Hukejaure fjällstuga (20 km; backtrack 2 km in the morning) to the border and continues meandering between the countries via Gautelishytta (17 km), Skoaddejávre hytta (17 km), Sitashytta (22 km), Paurohytta (24 km), Røysvatn hytta (25 km) and Rávddajávrre shelter (40 km) to Vaisaluokta fjällstuga (13 km). From Gautelishytta to Sulitjelma it coincides with the Nordlandsruta trail at least partly [check route]. There is no food for sale before Vaisaluokta, so you have to have food for a week when you leave Sälka. You can get fishing permits, but do not rely on the catch.

It is possible to take a shortcut from Hukejaure via Sitasjaure (20 km) to Ritsem (20 km), from where you can take the boat to Váisáluokta or the coach to Gällivare as described below. This may be sensible e.g. if you are running out of days or the weather makes a week in high fells seem a less good idea.

In the Narvik fells the trail is at quite high altitude, with very nice views but exposed in bad weather. Fog can make some of the huts hard to find. There may also be snow and ice left late in the summer, check especially if going before July. There are many glaciers in the mountains around the trail, some visible also from the trail.

After Paurohytta you cross Bårojávrre by the narrow isthmus. There is a sound in the middle, with rowing boats (update: there may be a bridge since 2019). You might have to cross three times to leave a boat on each side. If the boats were on land, leave them in the same way. A variation of the route goes from Pauroshytta via Sørfjorden and then along Gränsleden (36 km from Paurohytta to Røysvatn by this route).

After Røysvatn the trail crosses the Gränsleden trail (Rádjebálges, Grenseleden) from Sørfjorden in Tysfjord (boat connection from Kjøpsvik) in Norway over the border mountains to Ritsem in Sweden. This is an old trade route, and was also used by refugees during the war. Rádjebálges has several lean-to shelters (but no huts) on the 40 km leg from here to Ritsem. There is a boat connection from Ritsem to Váisáluokta.

The last leg between Røysvatn and Vaisaluokta is 50 km without cabins, mostly in exposed terrain. You could instead walk along the Gränsleden trail (Rádjebálges) from Røysvatn to Ritsem and take a boat from there to Váisaluokta over Áhkkájávrre.

20 km after Røysvatn (check!) it is possible to walk the 10 km down to Hellmobotn, which is reachable by a ferry to Drag in Tysfjord (in summer?). This is the narrowest point of the Norwegian mainland (except near Kirkenes), only 6 km from fjord to border.

Back in Sweden after Røysvatn the trail slowly descends below the treeline again. Váisáluokta is a Sámi settlement by the large lake Áhkkájávrre, home to about fifty families. You can buy smoked fish and gáhkku from the locals. There are two goahti churches near Svjálltjájåhkå. Nearby is Áhkká, towering over the lake 2015 m high (the lake is at 450). Áhkká is a goddess in the Sámi pre-Christian religion. Seem from the right perspective one can see her head, breasts, belly and legs. A large number of terrain features caused by the glaciers can be identified below the mountain.

From Váisáluokta there is a boat connection to Ritsem, with coach connection to Gällivare. The Padjelantaleden leads (or used to lead) to Änonjálmme 7 km further south by the shore. Also Änonjálmme is a Sámi settlement.

• 🌍 Hukejaure mountain cabin. Self-catering kitchen, cash only, pets allowed. 
• 🌍 Sitasjaure mountain cabin (on the shortcut to Ritsem). Self-catering kitchen, cash only, pets allowed. Close by is a Sámi camp and several old Sàmi sacrificial sites. 
• 🌍 Gautelishytta. Unmanned (obetjent) DNT hut, DNT key, beds for 12, six of which in rooms for two. Electric light, USB outlets. Sauna. Boat. On Grensesømmen, Nordkalottleden and E1. Mobile coverage by Telenor may be available on the hilltop to the east. 
• 🌍 Skoaddejávre. Unmanned (obetjent) DNT huts for 10+2. DNT key, the smaller hut probably unlocked. Hard to find in fog. Boat. Fishing possible if you have the permit. Mobil coverage from Telenor halfway up the fell Juovvačurru east of the huts. 
• 🌍 Sitashytta. Obetjent hytte by Siidasjávri (Sitasjaure). DNT cabins with beds for 4+2+2. Closed road from the fjords, used by bikers and families with prams. Boat. Fishing possible if you have the permit. By Grensesømmen, Nordkalottruta and E1. 
• 🌍 Baugeboa. Emergency or day hut. Two beds. Small kitchen with gas cooker and kitchen utelsils. Wood stove for heat. Built 2016, as the former hut (across the river) was destroyed by an avalanche 2014. On Grensesømmen, Nordkalottleden and E1. No mobile phone coverage. 
• 🌍 Paurohytta. DNT obetjent hytte by Båvrojavrre. DNT key. Big and small cabin. No mobile phone coverage. Bridge over the isthmus since 2019. 
• 🌍 Røysvatn hytta (check position, wrong on at least one map, may be hard to find in the terrain.). Obetjent hytte. DNT key. 10+2 persons in two huts. Sauna. On Grensesømmen, Nordkalottleden and E1. No mobile phone coverage. 
• 🌍 Rautojaure (Rávddajávrre). Day/emergency hut. Beds for two, space for two more on the floor. No heating. (updated Mar 2018)
• 🌍 Vaisaluokta (Vájsáluokta). Operated by STF. Only accepts cash payment. The cabin does not have a shop, but you may be able to buy some food from the settlement. (updated Oct 2017)

From Váisáluokta fjällstuga the trail goes via Kutjaure fjällstuga (18 km), Låddejåhkå fjällstuga (19 km), Arasluokta fjällstuga (13 km), Stáloluokta fjällstuga (12 km) and to Stáddajåhkå fjällstuga (12 km). The Padjelantaleden coincides with Nordkalottleden for some distance, at Stáloluokta it forks away to the east, to Kvikkjokk.

The leg from Stáloluokta to Kvikkjokk along Nordkalottleden is some 100 km. You could take the shortcut along Padjelantaleden, via Tuottar (18 km), Tarraluoppal (11 km), Såmmarlappa (13 km), Tarrekaise (13 m), Njunjes (6 km) to Kvikkjokk (16 km), for a total of 77 km.

Kutjaure fjällstuga is at the border of the Padjelanta (Badjelánnda) National Park. The cabins in Padjelanta are operated by the Sámi Badjelánnda Laponia Turism (BLT). 10 km to the south-east is Sarek, which is the most demanding national park in Sweden, with high mountains (several peaks over 1900 m, Sarektjåhkkå 2023 m) and little infrastructure. Both of these parks, as well as the Swedish part of the Sulitelma mountains, are part of the UNESCO World Heritage site Laponia.

Because of the reindeer, dogs are not permitted in Padjelanta, except as leashed from 1 January to 30 April. The name Badjelánnda means "high land" and much of the park is fell heath, surrounded by higher peaks outside the park.

At Staddajåkkå fjällstuga Nordkalottleden forks. If you go to the west, you end up in Norwegian Sulitjelma, if you go south, in Swedish Kvikkjokk. The trails lead by Swedish Sulitelma on different sides.

• 🌍 Kutjaure (Guvtjávrre). Operated by STF. Only accepts cash payment. Does not have any shop. Mobil phone coverage shaky. Emergency phone. The settlements near the lake belong to the Sámi community Sirges, while the cabins are maintained by STF. (updated Oct 2017)
• 🌍 Låddejåhkå. Operated by BLT. Sells a few edibles. (updated Oct 2017)
• 🌍 Árasluokta, ☏ +46 73-082-33-69. Operated by BLT. Sells a few edibles (including smoked or fresh fish, dried reindeer meat, gáhkko) and some Sami handicraft. Boat tours available. Church goahti at the Sámi settlement. (updated Oct 2017)
• 🌍 Stáloluokta. Operated by BLT. The Stáloluokta cabins are situated by a Sámi settlement and, like the other cabins in Padjelanta, maintained by the Sámi community. Sauna and church guohti. The Parfas kiosk (+46 73-812-1649) sells food, including dried reindeer meat, fresh fish and a basic assortment of normal non-perishable food, and various daily or camping essentials. (updated Oct 2017)
• 🌍 Stáddájåhkå. Operated by BLT. Home made bread and a minor assortment of non-perishable food for sale. (updated Oct 2017)

The trail continues to Sårjåsjaure fjällstuga (6 km), over the border and via Sorjushytta (9 km) and Ny Sulitjelma fjellstue (7 km) to Sulitjelma (3 km). The trail passes between the Sulidälbmá/Sulitelma/Sulitjelma and Blåmannsisen glaciers, the latter 5th in size in Norway. Remember that approaching the front of a glacier or walking on it is very dangerous. The glaciers can safely be admired from a suitable adjacent peak (which requires some planning and probably a separate day trip) or from safe distance.

The Sårjåsjaure cabin is also known as Konsul Persson’s cabin, as it was built because of his daughter (beds are original, smaller than modern standard; he was the one who founded the Sulitjelma mines). By the cabin is a glacier lake with a sandy beach, and a waterfall. The cabin is unmanned according to DNT, and there may be no firewood.

The Ny Sulitjelma cabin was built after a storm 2006 and has running water and electricity. The last house from the mining era will be demolished in 2022; mining stopped 1991. Traces of the mining in the surroundings. In summer you can come here by car from Sulitjelma. After the cabin there is a fork to the east, along which the European route E1 continues towards Sicily.

• 🌍 Sårjåsjaure (Sårjåsjávrre). Operated by STF. Sells a few edibles. (updated Oct 2017)
• 🌍 Sorjushytta. Unmanned ("obetjent") cabin in the western end of Sårjåsjávrre. DNT key. Two rooms for four in the new hut, two in the old one. The new one was built in 2007 as the former main hut was destroyed by a storm. 
• 🌍 Ny Sulitjelma fjellstue. Unmanned ("obetjent") cabin. DNT key. New cabin with beds for 29. 220 V electricity, water etc. Mobile phone coverage. 
• Sulitjelma (Pite Sami: Sulidælbmá, Lule Sami: Sulisjielmmá) is a former mining town, now a trailhead for treks to the nearby glaciers and fells, as well as for Nordkalottleden.

From Sulitjelma you can take road 830 to Fauske. Buses to there and onwards to Bodö.

From Staddajåkkå fjällstuga you can continue via Pieskehaure fjällstuga (29 km), Vaimok fjällstuga (18 km), Tarrekaise fjällstuga (22 km), Njunjes fjällstuga (6 km) to Kvikkjokk fjällstation in Kvikkjokk (16 km). In the late 1800s it was believed that Sulitelma was Sweden's highest mountain, and the trail you will follow was prepared as a tourist route via Kvikkjokk to there: Sulitelmaleden.

There is a mighty glacier view at Pieskehaure fjällstuga. The highest peak, Suliskongen (1907 m), can only be reached by a long glacier walk, which would require a guide.

Lake Vájmok is said to be the one with clearest water in Sweden.

Descending down to Tarrekaise the trail leaves the treeless areas. From Tarrekaise fjällstuga (at lake Tarraure) the trail again joins Padjelantaleden, to Kvikkjokk. After Njunjes it reaches coniferous forest.

• 🌍 Pieskehaure fjällstuga. Sauna, shop and emergency phone. 
• 🌍 Vaimok fjällstuga. 
• 🌍 Tarrekaise (Darregájsse). Operated by STF. Has a shop, but only accepts cash payment. (updated Oct 2017)
• 🌍 Njunjes fjällstuga. 
• Kvikkjokk fjällstation (Huhttán) (in Kvikkjokk), ☏ +46 971 210 22, info@kvikkjokkfjallstation.se. Operated by STF. One of the largest mountain stations in the reserve. They have a convenience store and a restaurant. They also rent out fishing and canoeing gear. (updated Oct 2017)

At Kvikkjokk mountain station the rooms have hostel standard. Restaurant with buffet meals; bar and café; shop. Kvikkjokk became an important place in the 17th century because of a silver mine in the nearby mountains (laid down 1702, some structures in Kvikkjokk remain). Now it is a trailhead for Padjelantaleden, Kungsleden and Nordkalottleden, as well as for shorter hikes. Guided boat and canoe tours available. Among those not arriving from the fells, the place is regarded as being in the middle of the wilderness.

Bus from Kvikkjokk to Jokkmokk at Inlandsbanan (120 km) and Murjek at the main railway (180 km). Both provide access to sleeper trains to Stockholm.