Nouakchott

Nouakchott is built around a large tree-lined street, Avenue Gamal Abdel Nasser, which runs northeast through the city centre from the old airport. It divides the city into two, with the residential areas in the north and the medina quarter, along with the kebbe, a shanty town formed due to the displacement of people from other areas by the desert.

Normal fare in a shared taxi is 100 UM, but taxis around the city for non-set routes can cost up to 300 UM per person.

You can use the Mauritanian version of Uber called “ClassRide”, download the app available on Appstore and Play-store, or call the call centre 1122 to book a ride with comfortable vehicle, the fares starts at 1,000 UM (for less than 4 km), and then counts 200 UM for each km.

There are mainly shared taxis running in the city, but if you want to ride alone, you need to pay for all the seats (600 UM).

For an empty taxi between the fishing port and the city centre, be prepared to pay 1,500 UM, otherwise 100 UM per person should suffice if you find one with people in it.

Attractions in Nouakchott include the National Museum of Mauritania, the National Library and the National Archives.

• 🌍 National Museum of Mauritania. (updated Feb 2023)
• Head to the bustling fishing wharf 'port de peche' for a firsthand look at Mauritania's artisanal fishing industry. At evenings one can see teams of fishermen bring in the day's catch on brightly painted sea-canoes. The catch is sold on the spot and loaded onto donkey carts or ancient Renault 12s to be resold in town.

The Nouakchottois go to the beaches on weekend evenings (especially in the hot season). Swimming in the sea at Nouakchott can be dangerous due to the treacherous and strong current.

5 km west from central Nouakchott are beaches, the fishing wharf and a few seaside hotels.

• Franco-Mauritanian Cultural Center: movies, concerts, exhibits etc.
• Stade Olympique: run laps at the stade Olympique, or watch a football match.

Fishing: surf-casting is possible from the beaches near Nouakchott. Bring your own equipment. Some basic fishing supplies can be bought from Lebanese-owned shops in Nouakchott. Travel in groups only for security reasons.

Traditional Mauritanian handicrafts are available in hotels, at the museum, and in shops catering to tourists at the top of Avenue Kennedy. Silver jewellery, such as bracelets and earrings, are popular souvenirs. Rugs made of camel wool can also be purchased. Items from Mauritania's fast-disappearing nomadic lifestyle, camel saddles and wooden chests, can be purchased.

Unfortunately many items for sale in Nouakchott are of shoddy workmanship. Be prepared for some determined tracking down to find a quality piece. Dakar, Senegal is also a good place to purchase jewellery from Moorish silversmiths. There is a small collection of artisans selling quality good on Autoroute Rosso, away from the airport, but it is hard to find. Sometimes referred to as the Aritsian's Market or the Zoo. Most prices given to you can usually be haggled down to about a third of the given price, so don't be afraid to walk away at an initial offer.

• Markets: the Marche Capitale and Marche Sixieme are the most interesting for purchasing local specialities and souvenirs. The Camel Market on the outskirts of the city on the road to Boutilimit makes an interesting visit.
• The city also hosts the Nouakchott Silver Market. One beach is devoted to fishing boats where fish can be bought fresh. Nouakchott is a principal selling place of native Saharan meteorites.

There is a decent variety of restaurants in Nouakchott with plates from 1,000 to 3,500 UM. Most restaurants in the capital offer pretty much the same menu: pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches and salads. Nicer places, such as Iman, will have steaks, brochettes, seafood and even curry.

• There is a string of restaurants on the road from the Stade Olympique to the French Embassy such as Chez Lina on Ave du General de Gaulle (+222 45 24 06 84).
• Nearby is Tafarit Sun House, +222 45 25 46 73, which, depending on availability, has alcohol if you're a westerner.

• Near Marche Capitale, there is a street of sandwich shops that offer near-identical menus, the best of which is the Prince (which taxi drivers know by name).

If you wish to cook, there are many large markets, including Deja-Vu, next to Ta-ta on Du Gaulle, which specializes in American products.

Mauritania is a dry country, but alcohol can still be found if you know where to look. Many of the French- and Spanish-owned clubs and restaurants will have some whisky or beer available, depending on their supply, and cost from 2,000-3,000 UM a drink. If you're checking in the United States embassy, ask the Marines on duty (be subtle about it) if they're having a party. You'll have a great time in a safe place. Same can be said at just about every embassy, as the expat community is very close and will spend the weekends together.

• Monotel - Run by a Spanish father and son, this local gets busy at around two in the morning and regularly plays hosts to Senegalese DJs. Decent restaurant and bar by day, is a fairly reliable source for whisky.
• Naf's Cafe, located behind Friso's also has beer, whisky, rum and vodka.

Cafe in the American Embassy will also have drinks during the day.

If you're feeling bold, ask around if anyone knows where to get drinks. Several people will sell it here and there, smuggled from Senegal, but don't expect anything top shelf. A small bottle should run you around 6,000-10,000 UM each.

• 🌍 Azalaï Hotel (Marhaba), 160, Avenue Gamal Abder Nasser, ☏ +222 45 29 50 51. 
• 🌍 Hotel Tfeila, Avenue Charles de Gaulle, ☏ +222 45257400, info@hoteltfeila.com. The former Novotel hotel, which is still is referred to sometimes. 
• 🌍 Hotel Halima, Rue de I Hotel Halima (just behind Hotel Tfeila). 
• In central Nouakchott, there is the Hotel Houda at Centre ville, Avenue Kennedy and the Hotel Mouna north of the Novotel/Tfeila.
• Auberge Menata, Rue Aber Baker. Owner speaks English. Help with renting a car and a guide. High reputation with former guests. Dorms with shared facilities from 2,500 UM per person, tent from 1,500 UM. 
• Residence Zahra, opposite Hotel Halima and the Russian embassy, has clean and spacious rooms with air-conditioning, bathrooms, TV and WiFi from 12,000 UM.

There is also a few hotels out at the beach.

• 🌍 Complexe Sabah, Plage des pecheurs. A relatively new (opened 2022) holiday complex by the beach. As of December 2023 various parts of it are still under construction. Bungalow rooms are available which are air conditioned and have good internet. Food in the restaurant is good but service can be a bit slow. (updated Dec 2023)

There are also a couple of camping places not far away.

Like anywhere else, try to stay in groups after dark. You might occasionally run into some rude people, but by and large, Mauritanians are a very nice people. Don't be surprised to be offered a glass of tea in a shop.

One can get from Nouakchott to the most parts of Mauritania.

• Nouadhibou - Two buses per day depart from Gare routiére du Atar to Nouadhibou at 08:00 and 16:00. Though probably more convenient option is shared taxis.
• Atar - to get to Atar, go to Gare routiére du Atar. Plenty of bus companies depart from there, though all seem to have the same time of departure. The first group of buses tends to depart every day at 07:00, but actually you have to wait till 08:00 and the second at 16:00 the bus ticket should cost no more than 400 UM except for Teissir voyage (500 UM) which is reputable among locals as the safest company and therefore requires reservation at least one day in prior.
• Terjit - there are buses from Nouakchott to Oujeft/Aoujeft that pass Terjit. Price is about 500 Ouguiya (2023). They leave quite far from the city centre on the road towards Akjoujt. One company that goes there is called "Transport Emine / أمين".
• Rosso - Plenty of buses depart from Gare routière de Nouakchott to Rosso. The bus ticket costs 300 UM and takes you about 500 m away from the border.
• Kiffa